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Thread: 2zz Swap?

  1. #21
    Spyderchat Enthusiast Mr. P's Avatar
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    Default 1zz again

    Quote Originally Posted by leepear View Post
    1zz your car again. I did the 2zz route and am dissatisfied with the low and mid range. My swap was done by a pro with high end header and although not dyno tested seems pretty good in lift. I have not had one issue in 2 1/2 year of daily driving. The problem my car is street use only and I cant get to lift fast enough and the lag between lift is not fun. I am now thinking a low boost turbo 2zz to make the car more enjoyable on the street.
    Hello leepear,

    My 1zz in car is gone. I purchased the Detroit Nasty 2zz for refurb while still being able to drive the vehicle, at very lacking power and high oil consumption. I think in its current condition it should be classified by the EPA and a Diesel hybrid.....lol.

    1zz is GREAT engine unless pre-cat or ring issues and go .....?....300K miles.

    And there is my dilemma. Rebuild or buy 1zz and install, or go for the SONG. I was a big fan of F1 racing before the v6 turbo's.....they DRONE. I want a SHRIEK!

    Thanks for you post. I can always go back and rebuild the 1zz.....if block is in tolerance.

    Cheers,
    MR. P

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  3. #22
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    Default

    I like the 2zz at lift. Mine is the high rpm cpu. For autocross the lift would be difficult to drive smoothly. I have a 2zz, two 2005 1zz and a turbo 1zz. The best drivability is a low boost turbo 1zz. Mine makes 227 hp dynode, more than the 2zz. You will never get a thrill from a stock 1zz just smooth even power, but not enough. So my answer is what is you budget and driving application. Also, the upgrades don't get your investment back and a pieced together turbo is just problems unless you are a technical person. These words of wisdom are from a 65 year old that can afford whatever he wants to drive and now I am thinking turbo 2zz low boost to get me bottom and mid range power. But my next move will take my widebody to a perfectly dependable car for 2+ years to one that may have issues that I will need to pay a motorsports place good money to maintain. In an autocross my stock 2005 with limited slip with decent tires would beat my 2zz raced out widebody with all trd parts and 11 inch wide wheels. Tough decision for you and now me and good luck. Final suggestion buy a finished car for cheap that needs some work. I bought a 2zz car with a hardtop with a broken u joint that cracked the block for $3500. Sold the hardtop and fixed the axle and turns out the block was fixable. So I had a black 2001 2zz car in great shape for $1500 all in. Just an example of what is out there.
    Last edited by leepear; 03-30-2019 at 09:26 AM.

  4. #23
    Spyderchat Enthusiast
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    Default

    If the 2zz loses 1qt oil/750 miles, what's the sense?

    I realize this question is a bit loaded, however, if one's main concern is oil consumption, I'd have to consider a different engine to invest in. I'm on my 3rd 1ZZ engine in my Spyder (love the car and my wife is beginning to hate it), 25% Lucas Heavy Duty Stabilizer has decreased my oil consumption from 1qt per 500 miles to 1qt/~800 miles.

    I'd like to experience the lift and added performance of the 2zz, but, I'm having my doubts about a swap.

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  6. #24
    Spyderchat Enthusiast dev's Avatar
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    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Steve Miller View Post
    If the 2zz loses 1qt oil/750 miles, what's the sense?

    I realize this question is a bit loaded, however, if one's main concern is oil consumption, I'd have to consider a different engine to invest in. I'm on my 3rd 1ZZ engine in my Spyder (love the car and my wife is beginning to hate it), 25% Lucas Heavy Duty Stabilizer has decreased my oil consumption from 1qt per 500 miles to 1qt/~800 miles.

    I'd like to experience the lift and added performance of the 2zz, but, I'm having my doubts about a swap.
    The 2ZZ holds its oil better than most especially earlier 1ZZ motors. It is not known to be a typical oil burning engine.
    It is a great investment for what you are getting and that is a factory reliable 180hp. If you try something else you might get more but the costs go up substantially and the reliability will suffer.

    There is no free lunch but in terms of value you cant beat a 2ZZ. The 2ZZ is a high quality light weight motor which is important for the application.

    However it is very likely that you can screw up a swap by cheeping out on the parts. Since the 2ZZ is a performance motor you don't know who owned it last, if its beat it to hell and poorly maintained. You will then be unimpressed with its performance and have all sorts of issues.

    I think there is a good way to tell and that is to remove the valve cover and look for varnish on the cams and surrounding area. I would check the wear on the intake cam as that is a very good indicator.
    To go deeper I would check the valve clearances to make sure they are in specification and do a leak down test.

    Failing to look under the valve cover will be your own undoing.


    Also if you buy a Spyder that is a weekend racer you need to find this out before buying it because some owners try to get the car back to stock and sell it without full disclosure. I would never buy someones weekend track toy.
    Last edited by dev; 04-01-2019 at 12:31 PM.
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  7. #25
    Spyderchat Enthusiast Mr. P's Avatar
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    Default You learn as you go

    Quote Originally Posted by dev View Post
    Welcome Mr. P . If the engines needs much work thats not a good sign.
    These 2ZZ engines in some ways are worse than 1ZZ engines if they have been abused and not running right.
    The amount of money that has to go into just fixing a worn head could buy a good low millage engine.
    If the bottom end is worn its better to just throw it out.

    This is not to imply a 2ZZ is not a good motor, it is as long has it doesn't have a history of being abused.
    Lucky for me, only intake cam and rocker followers (1) bad. Purchased new stock cam from Toyota that included 4 rockers.

    Oh, and of coarse, rocker bolt broken and, like a dummy, damaged rocker shaft during removal (aka also new rocker shaft).

    Other than that, normal machine shop work.....until valve lash!

    Hybrid Yamaha motorcycle/Toyota car, valve lash is not normal. Took to MWR because I do not have shim kit, they also helped me with rocker bolt shaft extraction (thank you MWR)

    Mr. P

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