Average coolant temp
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Thread: Average coolant temp

  1. #1
    Spyderchat Enthusiast bradg's Avatar
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    Default Average coolant temp

    What's the average coolant temp for these cars? I have a 2zz and it doesn't go over 173 even if I let it sit and idle for 5 mins or so. I know these cars have larger cooling systems which would give it more time to cool off but 173 seems low. I'm trying to determine if I have bubbles in the system since my idle bounce when coasting in neutral and at about 1100 standing still.

    Thanks,

    Brad

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    Spyderchat Enthusiast dev's Avatar
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    You should measure it by driving the car for at least an hour not idling the car.

    Edit I mistaken normal oil temps.

    For coolant temps it should be between 180-200f at idle. If you can get the fans to kick on at idle and then cycle off that is a good sign everything is working as intended.
    Last edited by dev; 03-27-2019 at 09:22 PM.
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    The coolant temperature will vary by load and by ambient temperature.

    Re BGB the stock thermostat valve opening temperature is 80 – 84°C (176 – 183.2°F). The radiator fans will turn on at 93°C (199°F) and will remain on until temperature drops below 83°C (181°F).

    In a mild climate (Cali), it is entirely normal for the operating temperature to range from 185-195F and this is confirmed in the BGB. In a colder climate (Alaska) you will see a lower operating temp. In a warm climate (Arizona) the temps may push into the fan operating range routinely. This is because ambient temperature affects the rate of heat removal from the radiator.

    A good test of the cooling system is a long (one mile or longer) steep hill (3% grade) accelerating/pushing the car to an elevated speed in third or fourth gear (speed limits are not considered elevated).

    Under cruise conditions (4th or 5th/6th gear and speed limit) your temperature should remain at the low end of the operating range, if not you have a problem.

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    Spyderchat Enthusiast bradg's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by dev View Post
    You should measure it by driving the car for at least an hour not idling the car.

    Edit I mistaken normal oil temps.

    For coolant temps it should be between 180-200f at idle. If you can get the fans to kick on at idle and then cycle off that is a good sign everything is working as intended.
    Makes sense... most cars run 200-225 at idle but have half the cooling system. It sounds like it should be obvious but I didn't even think to check to see if the fans are coming on. I've just been going by what the code reader says. I've had a couple different temp sensors in it just to make sure, since it's easy to get to but it sounds like I need to keep working on burbing the coolant.

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    Quote Originally Posted by bradg View Post
    Makes sense... most cars run 200-225 at idle but have half the cooling system. It sounds like it should be obvious but I didn't even think to check to see if the fans are coming on. I've just been going by what the code reader says. I've had a couple different temp sensors in it just to make sure, since it's easy to get to but it sounds like I need to keep working on burbing the coolant.
    It’s more or less determined my the thermostat even if the coolant capacity might be higher. The coolant reading from the ODB scanner is what should be measured.

    I can get the fans to come on in cooler temps at idle so it’s not so much effected by ambient temperature. When the fans kick on the temps can be as high as 212f and then it will creep back down to 180f or so and turn off. If you can get it to cycle off and on everything is fine.

    If if you have a bubble it might not be reading the correct temps so better to fill the coolant tank and do another bleed of the system. Also check to see if you have hot air coming from the vents when you set the heater to max. If so that is a good sign.
    Last edited by dev; 03-27-2019 at 10:40 PM.
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    Quote Originally Posted by dev View Post
    It’s more or less determined my the thermostat even if the coolant capacity might be higher. The coolant reading from the ODB scanner is what should be measured.

    I can can get the fans to come on in cooler temps at idle so it’s not so much effected by ambient temperature. When the fans kick on the temps can be as high as 212f and then it will creep back down to 180f or so and turn off. If you can get it to cycle off and on everything is fine.

    If if you have a bubble it might not be reading the correct temps so better to fill the coolant tank and do another bleed of the system. Also check to see if you have hot air coming from the vents when you set the heater to max. If so that is a good sign.
    Yea I have heat. I thought I bled pretty thoroughly... I've had both bleeder valves and the tank open multiple times while the car was running and squeezed all the lines on the engine (even the one underneath on the firewall) and all the lines up front including the heater core lines. I also jacked both the front and the back of the car up while I did it. Got any other tricks other than any of that?

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    Spyderchat Enthusiast dev's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by bradg View Post
    Yea I have heat. I thought I bled pretty thoroughly... I've had both bleeder valves and the tank open multiple times while the car was running and squeezed all the lines on the engine (even the one underneath on the firewall) and all the lines up front including the heater core lines. I also jacked both the front and the back of the car up while I did it. Got any other tricks other than any of that?
    There is one more trick that is called the trick. It can be used in an emergency situation.

    Its a little dangerous so wear a glove.

    Get the car up to temp or running for at least 30 minutes to an hour. Shut down the car and wait 10 minutes.
    Carefully undo the coolant cap ever so slightly until you hear it hiss. Have some control so you can tighten it back incase you go too far.
    Keep going until you see a rush of bubbles fill the tank and then tighten quickly so the coolant doesn’t rush out making a mess. You will have some coolant come out but not much.

    If you have a bad enough bubble after the trick the tank will be very low having you add fluid once the car cools down.
    Last edited by dev; 03-27-2019 at 11:07 PM.
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    Quote Originally Posted by dev View Post
    There is one more trick that is called the trick. It can be used in an emergency situation.

    Its a little dangerous so wear a glove.

    Get the car up to temp or running for at least 30 minutes to an hour. Shut down the car and wait 10 minutes.
    Carefully undo the coolant cap ever so slightly until you hear it hiss. Have some control so you can tighten it back incase you go too far.
    Keep going until you see a rush of bubbles fill the tank and then tighten quickly so the coolant doesn’t rush out making a mess. You will have some coolant come out but not much.

    If if you have a bad enough bubble after the trick the tank will be very low having you add fluid once the car cools down.
    Good idea... I've done that plenty of times on other cars when I didn't feel like waiting but never thought about doing it to bleed the system. I'll give it a try. Thanks!

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    Quote Originally Posted by bradg View Post
    Good idea... I've done that plenty of times on other cars when I didn't feel like waiting but never thought about doing it to bleed the system. I'll give it a try. Thanks!
    Most welcome. Just be careful and have some rags to clean up the mess.
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    Quote Originally Posted by dev View Post
    Most welcome. Just be careful and have some rags to clean up the mess.
    I usually wrap a rag or two around the coolant cap and let that knock down the spray and absorbed the mess at the same time.

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    It's interesting when someone doesn't even know coolant temp from oil temp and they think they're an expert on everything.

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    Quote Originally Posted by MerryFrankster View Post
    It's interesting when someone doesn't even know coolant temp from oil temp and they think they're an expert on everything.
    I never said I was an expert on anything and Im certainly not above making a mistake and correcting for it. In this case I made a error of posting oil temp numbers rather than coolant numbers which I know but mis-posted. I acknowledged my mistake and edited my post like what normal people do. I don't run from my mistakes, I account for them on the rare occasion it happens. My only motivation is to help others.

    I certainly don't double down on silly embarrassing mistakes. If you make a mistake there is no shame in it, correct for it, move on and don't make it a competition or hold a grudge. I certainly don't disappear thinking it will go away in time.

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    https://www.spyderchat.com/forums/sh...97#post1842097

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    There is no syncro for 1st. To downshift into 1st you need to double-clutch rev match, or wait until you come to a stop.
    Quote Originally Posted by rmeller View Post
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    Quote Originally Posted by MerryFrankster View Post
    It's interesting when someone doesn't even know coolant temp from oil temp and they think they're an expert on everything.
    It is interesting that the mistake was corrected and the initial statement remained. Did you get up on the wrong side of the bed? Everyone makes mistakes and they should not be ridiculed after corrections have been made.
    Light travels faster than sound, so people may appear to be bright until you hear them speak...

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    Quote Originally Posted by MerryFrankster View Post
    The coolant temperature will vary by load and by ambient temperature.

    Re BGB the stock thermostat valve opening temperature is 80 – 84°C (176 – 183.2°F). The radiator fans will turn on at 93°C (199°F) and will remain on until temperature drops below 83°C (181°F).

    In a mild climate (Cali), it is entirely normal for the operating temperature to range from 185-195F and this is confirmed in the BGB. In a colder climate (Alaska) you will see a lower operating temp. In a warm climate (Arizona) the temps may push into the fan operating range routinely. This is because ambient temperature affects the rate of heat removal from the radiator.

    A good test of the cooling system is a long (one mile or longer) steep hill (3% grade) accelerating/pushing the car to an elevated speed in third or fourth gear (speed limits are not considered elevated).

    Under cruise conditions (4th or 5th/6th gear and speed limit) your temperature should remain at the low end of the operating range, if not you have a problem.
    Something to remember about the thermostat setting; it is an inlet stat which means that it controls the temp at the coolant inlet to the engine. At full load the temperature of the coolant leaving the engine towards the radiator can be 100 degrees C higher than the inlet.

    Dave

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    Quote Originally Posted by dblotii View Post
    Something to remember about the thermostat setting; it is an inlet stat which means that it controls the temp at the coolant inlet to the engine. At full load the temperature of the coolant leaving the engine towards the radiator can be 100 degrees C higher than the inlet.

    Dave
    And the coolant temp sensor is at the back of the head.
    Light travels faster than sound, so people may appear to be bright until you hear them speak...

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