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Is there a limit to how much weight you can lose...

4K views 15 replies 11 participants last post by  dblotii 
#1 ·
...and still keep the car from simply flying away?

I am more than likely going to be driving the 1ZZ for a while (hopefully). I might be able to afford a C60 trans and the labor to swap it, but a 2ZZ is most likely not in the cards unless my financial situation changes substantially (it could happen!). One plays the game with the hand in front of him.

So, in order to get more, better grins through improving the weight/HP ratio, I still have a couple of broad avenues available to adjust the equation on either side: Reduce weight, and increase the HP of the 1ZZ. I know there are many ways to tweak the HP, but that is for later, and I can read up on that later. I want to focus on weight reduction for this thread.

Up front, I will say that I have very little body fat to spare, so I won't start there. The Frog will need to lose some weight before I do, and I know he has some to spare. The bonus is that I would assume I might also see better MPG, at least a little.

I also know there are many ways to reduce weight, and while I am interested in those details eventually also, I can look at old past posts for ideas there too.

So, the explicit question to start the thread is:
What are the safety implications of reducing the car, say, 100, 200, 300, or even 500 lbs. I do understand that -500 lbs is epic and unrealistic for a street car, and likely prohibitively expensive regardless, but I don't want to consider costs just yet. For now I am mainly interested in the safety impact of progressively reducing the weight of the cart, as that guides future research and eventual implementation.

My thinking/guessing about increased risk of reduced curb weight is along the lines of increased hydroplaning, or just taking mini-flights at higher speeds. I have serious doubts that once you get below a certain point, that adding air dams will be effective at counteracting the drastic changes in aerodynamics from a 10%, 20%, or 30% weight reduction. Plus, I personally don't really like all the air dams and dingleberries; I like the smooth, minimalist look.

Discuss! :)
 
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#2 · (Edited)
Read past posts on this subject because you will have many good responses from people that actually did it and what was involved.

Let me give you a brief summery. You could effectively remove 150-200 lbs before having to strip the car and before it starts to cost a small fortune to get that little extra.

Keep in mind that 200 lbs is a lot when it comes to this small car but you also have to consider that when you add stuff like bracing, thicker sway bars and other mods you are putting some of it back.

What I did was look at the weight list post for all of the items and seen exactly what is being saved. Also you have to consider where you are removing the weight as you can upset the balance of the car.

I would worry less about arrow especially if its a street driven car. If you are worried about hydroplaning make sure to get a good performance tire that is also known for its rain capabilities but above all drive cautiously whenever it rains.
 
#5 ·
I would worry less about arrow especially if its a street driven car. If you are worried about hydroplaning make sure to get a good performance tire that is also known for its rain capabilities but above all drive cautiously whenever it rains.

^^^^^^^^^^ Critical highlight to an already perfect replies. Dev If I keep +1 your post anymore, I'm going to owe you dinner and a movie.
 
#3 ·
Much of the weight that you can lose easily is stuff that increases the comfort and livability of the car.

You can ditch the spare and tools and save weight. Replace that with a can of Fix-A-Flat and pray.

You can ditch all the plastic under the frunk including the spare tire bin. Keep your Fix-A-Flat in the glove box.

You can ditch the floor mats, carpet and behind the seats plastics. Replace with ear plugs. It will be loud inside.

You can ditch the air conditioner, condenser and piping along with the heater and heater core. Dress accordingly.

You can buy lighter race seats. You may want to get a chiropractor on speed dial.

All of these have been done before and people have gotten the car down to around 1870 lbs. Unfortunately, unless it is a pure track car, it makes the car much less pleasant to drive.

Reasonable weight loss that does not affect comfort and livability is usually limited to lighter wheels and tires, batteries and perhaps a lighter exhaust. The Spyder is already one of the lightest modern cars you can buy. Because of that there is not a lot of excess weight that can be removed without significant compromises. It is just a question of how many compromises (sacrifices) you are willing to make in the pursuit of light weight.
 
#12 ·
You can ditch the spare and tools and save weight. Replace that with a can of Fix-A-Flat and pray.

You can ditch all the plastic under the frunk including the spare tire bin. Keep your Fix-A-Flat in the glove box.





You can buy lighter race seats. You may want to get a chiropractor on speed dial.
I've ripped out the frunk crap in all three of my spyders from the very beginning and have never needed to use the fix-a-flat in my glove. YMMV One of my friends has gotten so many nails now that its a joke between us. Ok Nevermind this one.

But I take offense with the chiropractor view of racing seats. In my eyes racing seats should have better ergonomics not worst than the stock seat. You just have to find the one that fits you best. I use to have back pain after 1-1.5 hrs in the stock seat because it basically has no lumbar support. Now I can do 5-6 hrs in my racing seat no problem other than my brain trying to fall asleep.
 
#7 · (Edited)
Thanks, Rampage, points taken.

My floor mats are OEM, they say "MR2 Spyder" on them so I can easily remember what I'm driving, and they are in great shape too. The suggestion is almost insulting, but I did ask and I know you were just trying to help, so I will let that one slide.

I think I will just keep my gas tank at 3 gallons or less at all times like the race car guys do. That will save about 75 pounds all by itself. Besides, buying gas is the best part of driving anyway, so why not just do it every day? I can't believe I never thought of this before.

Was also going to derail my own thread and ask about the fantastic leaf blower ideas I saw in another thread, instead of looking into a supercharger, but I hate the sound of leaf blowers and this is a safety thread, so that would be OT. Besides, I think I could do just as well with about 20 computer fans forcing air into the intake, which would be quieter than a leaf blower and run without having to use a power inverter in the cigarette lighter to run an electric leaf blower. Maybe i could even put a few fans at the tailpipe pulling exhaust out and thus creating a vacuum that would force even MORE air into the intake, for just a little more boost!

I considered a gas-powered leaf blower, but it is obviously out of the question since I would have to poke holes in the bottom of the gas tank for the fuel supply to the blower, and I'll be on a limited gas supply now so that might cause too much burden on the fuel supply.

Man, this is gonna be great, I can almost feel those extra 0.13 horses now...
 
#10 ·
If it's a street car your will be lucky to remove 200lbs from the car. It won't really have a major effect on the car. Just think about what your car drives like with and without a passenger.

In terms of acceleration, losing 200lbs is comparable to adding about 16hp.
 
#11 ·
I can tell you where to find significant weight savings. Get a lightweight battery and lose the stock exhaust. I find those to be some of the heavier items on the Spyder.
 
#13 ·
Removing the spare tire will definitely save weight, but the front end will feel light and darty at speed. If you have an early (2000-2000.5) Spyder, it already feels darty because it doesn't have a chin spoiler. Removing the spare will make the dartyness worse.
In this situation, I recommend moving the battery to the frunk.
I recommend adding a chin spoiler (76851-17070) in any situation.
 
#14 ·
If you were gonna loose weight anywhere it would have to be Rear THEN Front, in other words see what you can get off the back before you touch the front.

Hmmm don't think there's much that could come off the rear :concern:
-Muffler swap, a smaller muffler, which on the downside is louder.
-Light weight battery, but costs heaps.
-Light weight bootlid, probably doesn't exist
-Light weight wheels, how heavy are the stock wheels though?
-Light weight wheel nuts
-Use just enough engine oil.
 
#15 ·
On the contrary there is plenty on the rear.

The sock header, downpipe and muffler weighs a lot. Using aftermarket components is big savings and a performance benefit.

All that exhaust shielding might not weigh much but it adds up as you peel it off. Exchange the intake with a short ram and we are shaving off more.

The cherry on top is a light weight battery and now we are saving a 24lbs ballast that sits up high.

The rear wheels on the 2003+ weighs an outstanding 19lbs each. Add some light weight wheels and also take off unsprung weight.

Once you take off the rear you can start knocking of the weight in the frunk with taking out the spare and the plastics.
 
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