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Discussion Starter #1
Hi I started a post on the problem I on a separate post. I am having a problem with P0136 and have tried changing the senor multiple times and i still get the same problem . I recently purchased a code reader that shows live data and when I look at that specific 02 sensor after that cat it is just flat lined.. Basically I am not getting any voltage to it??? How do I fix that. I feel that if I fix that then I can get rid of that stupid p0136 code. Thank you
 

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A basic O2 sensor only produces voltage when it has a rich mixture inside the pipe. If there is no free hydrocarbon, then the output will be zero. If this is the sensor after the cat, then this is as it should be.
 

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Are you talking about the no voltage for heater element or a flat line for the signal output?
Did you check the wiring for any broken or loose connections with a Multimeter??
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Hi guys here are live pictures of what my OBDII reader is reading off of all 3 sensors. These screenshots were taken while i was driving both in city and highway roads. All 3 sensors were replaced prior to deleting the code P0136. The code came back after 40 min of driving. The P0136 should mean that the bank 1 sensor 2 is bad(sensor after the CAT). Remember i changed all sensors brand new the same day and before taking these pictures. As you can see bank 1 sensor 2 on the images are not even moving. I dont know what it should actually show if anyone can help me that would be great but my guess is I should be getting at least some movement/reading just like the other 2 sensors. Also does it mean that my 02 wiring that is coming out of the car itself is bad?
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Discussion Starter #5
Are you talking about the no voltage for heater element or a flat line for the signal output?
Did you check the wiring for any broken or loose connections with a Multimeter??
If you can look at my post i just posted before this reply and help me figure out what is wrong that would help very much . Thank you
 

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Did you check to see if you have 12 VDC for the heater element and/or for continuity from The sensor back to the ECU?
 

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I am not sure how to check that.....
The sensor black wires supply the heater voltage, so unplug the sensor and check the pins that connect to the black wires for 12 VDC.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
The sensor black wires supply the heater voltage, so unplug the sensor and check the pins that connect to the black wires for 12 VDC.
Okay ill check that tonight, if that is the problem do I have ti replace the wiring from the car then ? Is that hard to do?
 

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You will need to check continuity (resistance/ohms) because the issue could be a broken connection at a pin in one of the connectors, or a separated wire or two, or worst case, an issue with the ECU.
 

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The O2 Sensor will still give you a Voltage even with no Heater Circuit.. It will just be slow to respond.. The ECU is Actually programmed to turn off the O2 Sensor Heaters under heavy load conditions.. Yes I checked this out..

If you are getting ZERO Voltage, then you are Not in the Exhaust Stream at all, or the Exhaust is Cold.. Have you done the Shop Vac Trick for checking for Exhaust leaks?..

More than One Spyder had had this Problem, and it's been chased down to a Bad Flex Joint allowing Cold air messing with the Sensor..

Cap
 

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That Graphic is very difficult for me to read.. So I sat down and studied it.. Thank you for posting it.. it helps see what is going on..

It tells me either you have a wiring Issue or your ECU input is defective..

Now I'm trying to figure out the best way to Diagnose it..

Simplest is to toss in a different ECU, do you happen to have one on hand?..

Cap
 

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Discussion Starter #14
That Graphic is very difficult for me to read.. So I sat down and studied it.. Thank you for posting it.. it helps see what is going on..

It tells me either you have a wiring Issue or your ECU input is defective..

Now I'm trying to figure out the best way to Diagnose it..

Simplest is to toss in a different ECU, do you happen to have one on hand?..

Cap
Yeah I personally dont understand those reading on the pictures but as you can see the other sensors are reading "something" while the one I am having a problem with is not showing anything at all. I dont happen to have an extra ecu. I'll look for one if I have to if you think that would be the best way to attack this first.
 

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If you can, try and hook a single cell battery to the o2 sense leads.. I'm not in a spot where I have a wiring diag, or my notes.. but you have old o2 sensors.. and I'm thinking there are four wires on the sensor leads.. should be two black.. one blue and one white..
The blacks are the heater circuit.. I think the white will be the neg of the sensor and the blue will be the sig line.. if you cut the o2 sensor from the plug, and connect the white wire to the neg of the AAA battery, and the blue to the Pos end of the battery.. tape them in place.. then turn the key on and read the o2 sensor voltage of the B1S2 sensor.. it will be 1.5 volts..
I've never done this test before, and I do not know what the max reading the input can take.. I know Max that the o2 sensor will normally produce is .9 volts.
So I'm thinking a 1.5 should be good.. it's a risk..
If you are not willing to do it, I'll test my spyder this weekend and see if the o2 input will go that high with no damage..
Cap
 

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Discussion Starter #16
If you can, try and hook a single cell battery to the o2 sense leads.. I'm not in a spot where I have a wiring diag, or my notes.. but you have old o2 sensors.. and I'm thinking there are four wires on the sensor leads.. should be two black.. one blue and one white..
The blacks are the heater circuit.. I think the white will be the neg of the sensor and the blue will be the sig line.. if you cut the o2 sensor from the plug, and connect the white wire to the neg of the AAA battery, and the blue to the Pos end of the battery.. tape them in place.. then turn the key on and read the o2 sensor voltage of the B1S2 sensor.. it will be 1.5 volts..
I've never done this test before, and I do not know what the max reading the input can take.. I know Max that the o2 sensor will normally produce is .9 volts.
So I'm thinking a 1.5 should be good.. it's a risk..
If you are not willing to do it, I'll test my spyder this weekend and see if the o2 input will go that high with no damage..
Cap
Couple questions : where do I get a plug and play ECU is it as simple as unplugging the old one and plugging in the new one? Can I purchase new 02 wiring(the wiring that actually comes out from the car) not the wiring that comes with a new oxygen sensor. If the connector on the car is the only bad thing can I purchase a new connector? I havnt found any links to purchase any of this. Ill test out the voltage/wires this weekend to see if one of the wires is not working. Thanks for all your help and taking your time to try and figure out what is wrong.
 

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Discussion Starter #17
If you can, try and hook a single cell battery to the o2 sense leads.. I'm not in a spot where I have a wiring diag, or my notes.. but you have old o2 sensors.. and I'm thinking there are four wires on the sensor leads.. should be two black.. one blue and one white..
The blacks are the heater circuit.. I think the white will be the neg of the sensor and the blue will be the sig line.. if you cut the o2 sensor from the plug, and connect the white wire to the neg of the AAA battery, and the blue to the Pos end of the battery.. tape them in place.. then turn the key on and read the o2 sensor voltage of the B1S2 sensor.. it will be 1.5 volts..
I've never done this test before, and I do not know what the max reading the input can take.. I know Max that the o2 sensor will normally produce is .9 volts.
So I'm thinking a 1.5 should be good.. it's a risk..
If you are not willing to do it, I'll test my spyder this weekend and see if the o2 input will go that high with no damage..
Cap


I feel like I should do exactly what you said and what this guy said
 

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The ecu is not plug and play.. but I can help make it less of a hassle if it gets to that point..
We have options..
Cap
 

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Hi I started a post on the problem I on a separate post. I am having a problem with P0136 and have tried changing the senor multiple times and i still get the same problem . I recently purchased a code reader that shows live data and when I look at that specific 02 sensor after that cat it is just flat lined.. Basically I am not getting any voltage to it??? How do I fix that. I feel that if I fix that then I can get rid of that stupid p0136 code. Thank you

I posted on the previous thread to say that I had the same issue, i.e. sensor changed, but still can't get rid of the P0136 code. I also stated that my research shows this is common issuewith many people never actually getting to the bottom of it. I still haven't resolved it myself, though as the car is a summer toy, it not really getting used. That said, it recently had it's annual UK safety check and it did pass the emissions test (I did have to clear the MIL before putting it in for the test - if this is lit, it is an automatic fail) The two things I have done since my last post are:

1. Had my muffler system inspected at a muffler centre. The result was that there are a number of small leaks (primarily at the joins) but the garage did not feel that these were significant enough to affect the sensor.

2. I checked with power at the harness end with a multimeter and this gave the expected 12 volts. To do this I put the positive probe on the left heating circuit wire (one of the black wires on the O2 sensor itself but a different colour on the harness) and the negative probe on the negative battery terminal. Then I checked the ground which also gave 12 volts - white ground wire (again, not white on harness) and this time positive battery terminal. Car ignition needs to be on to do the test (so engine off).

This is a very good YouTube video on How to Test an Oxygen Sensor So I would suggest doing this before concluding there is an issue with the harness.
 
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