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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
Hi all:

I seem to have three of the dreaded emmision codes, 0440, 0441 and 0446 in that order.
I've read through the forums and BGB for causes and solutions and did some investigation. I did check the three solodoids on the emmisions system per the book and all three performed satisfactorily. Two under the hood and one on top of the gas tank charcoal can. And all those corresponding hose connections checked/tightened. I also checked the gas cap visually, seems to be ok, but it's about 10 years old.
That is as far as I've gone. I left the cargo door off behind the drivers seat, and the other day when I filled the tank, I smelled gas fumes in the car while driving with the top down. Not overpowering but noticable. Not noticable when the tank is more emptied of petrol.
Now I live in a very hot southwest climate and rubber does not do well here. Or plastic for that matter.
What are the odds that I have a dried out or shrunken gasket on top of the gas tank, and I'll have to lower it or take it down to replace those two gaskets (pump & sensor)? Is it posible I have a bad fuel injector pressure sensor? I refuse to believe that all 3 codes are from a bad gas cap, but...
Finally, I don't have to go thru emmissions on this vehicle, so... but I'd still like to fix it if I can.

Anyone end up solving this and have some advice?

Thank you all...
 

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One of the things the Evap system does is check for leaks by pulling a vacuum on the entire system (periodically). If there is any leak it fails the vacuum leak test. If you smell gas fumes you have a leak.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
So replacing the two gaskets on top of the gas tank is the best bet? I understand it is not a fun job.
Does it (the tank) need to come completely down or just lowered? And while I have it lowered or down, should I replace anything else hard to reach on top there? The sensor is pretty expensive from Toyota.

Thanks DB
 

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Discussion Starter #6 (Edited)
Toyota dealership said that the fuel strainer (#23217-21030) and fuel filter (#23300-23040) should be changed at 100K miles.
I don't see those particular items in the BGB. Are they inside the fuel pump? Can I/Should I replace them at the same time I replace the gaskets?
80K miles on the auto.

ADD: OK, I found the parts on page SF-11. Looks like they can be replaced by removing & then pulling apart the fuel pump assembly.
Also need a 'clip' and an 'o-ring' per the same diagram, which shows replace every time. Anyone know the toyota part numbers for those 2 items?
And any advice from someone who has completed the above tasks?

Thanks in Advance
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Can anyone verify that the o-ring I mentioned above is item #15 in the referenced diagram?
According to BGB, it should be located between Item nos. 7 and 11 in the diagram on SF-11.
BTW, the 'clip' I mentioned above seems to be item no. 9 in the diagram below.
77021
 

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So replacing the two gaskets on top of the gas tank is the best bet? I understand it is not a fun job.
Does it (the tank) need to come completely down or just lowered? And while I have it lowered or down, should I replace anything else hard to reach on top there? The sensor is pretty expensive from Toyota.

Thanks DB
You access the fuel tank from above by removing the luggage box floor.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
You access the fuel tank from above by removing the luggage box floor.
Can I replace the gaskets on the top without lowering or removing the tank?
Anyone know who has done the job? That obviously would make it less complicated.
Thanks
 

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Can I replace the gaskets on the top without lowering or removing the tank?
Anyone know who has done the job? That obviously would make it less complicated.
Thanks
Yes. Just read the procedure in the shop manual. It is available for free online. There are plenty of other places you could have a leak, including the gas-cap and all of the hoses between the fuel filler pipe and the tank
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Yes. Just read the procedure in the shop manual. It is available for free online. There are plenty of other places you could have a leak, including the gas-cap and all of the hoses between the fuel filler pipe and the tank
Maybe a smoke test would be the way to go...
Gas cap looks ok, but I smell gas inside the car when I top off and drive.
I have the Shop Manual and it doesn't do a good job of describing the procedures, imo.
DBlotti, have you done the gasket swap before? Others have said they had to lower, not drop, the tank to get the work done, due to lack of clearance.
I plan on looking at the gaskets closely with my snake camera and see if there are any visible cracks. I bet there are. It was 110F here today...
 

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Maybe a smoke test would be the way to go...
Gas cap looks ok, but I smell gas inside the car when I top off and drive.
I have the Shop Manual and it doesn't do a good job of describing the procedures, imo.
DBlotti, have you done the gasket swap before? Others have said they had to lower, not drop, the tank to get the work done, due to lack of clearance.
I plan on looking at the gaskets closely with my snake camera and see if there are any visible cracks. I bet there are. It was 110F here today...
The procedure is the one one for removing the fuel pump. I suggest removing the interior trim and metal cover over the fuel pump access and you might be able to judge where the leak is visually or by smell. There are multiple hoses going to the top pf the fuel tank that all must be vapor-tight.

Dave
 

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Discussion Starter #13
The procedure is the one one for removing the fuel pump. I suggest removing the interior trim and metal cover over the fuel pump access and you might be able to judge where the leak is visually or by smell. There are multiple hoses going to the top pf the fuel tank that all must be vapor-tight.

Dave
Thanks
Can I change both gaskets without dropping the tank? The fuel pump and the pressure sensor? If one needs to be done, I think it would be prudent to change both since they are both rubber and 20 y.o.
 

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Thanks
Can I change both gaskets without dropping the tank? The fuel pump and the pressure sensor? If one needs to be done, I think it would be prudent to change both since they are both rubber and 20 y.o.
I think you can. It has been a few years since I got in there on my car. The real answer should be in the shop manual. You need to read the manual carefully to figure out how to undo the fuel connectors.

Dave
 

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Discussion Starter #15
I removed the cargo floor panel behind the passenger seat, and I noticed two connectors coming off the wiring harness that terminates at the fuel pump. They are not connected to anything, and even had foam tape(?) over them.
Does anyone know what the are for? There is nothing there for them to connect to, and they don't go together. Are they for an aftermarket system?
See photo. Sorry about the upside down image, coudn't flip them with imbedded software...
Just curious.
Thanks.
20200629_184913.jpg
77179
 

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Discussion Starter #18
Hey all
So I finally solved the three codes above. After buying gaskets, fuel filters, o-rings, etc. to change the gaskets on top of the gas tank (may as well do the filters at the same time, huh?), my friend asked me if I changed the gas cap. That's the easiest thing, I replied, and I looked at it first, it looks fine to me.
But, I decided to do the easist thing before partially dropping the gas tank, I'm kinda lazy and its still 110F here. So I got another gas tank cap from McGeorge ($21, pretty good deal), and lo and behold, they looked the same, except the old main gasket was slightly flattened. When I put the new cap on, there was more resistance as I screwed it down through the 3 or 4 clicks.
Well a test drive of 30 plus miles showed the 3 codes were cleared and the engine light stayed off. Wow THREE codes for a gas cap? A code that says'you need a new gas cap' would have been nice...

So, if you have any or all of these codes, and you cap is more than say 5 or 6 years old, change it first. But don't just look at the old one, cause it didn't seem to have any problem to me from a visual inspection.

Does anyone know, can I replace the rubber O gasket only on the MR2 gas cap, or are they only sold as a set? Maybe keep the old one as backup if I can change the flattened gasket.

Regards and thanks for everyone's advice...
 

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I'm doing this same job right now. How did you test the 3-solenoids?

I have dropped the tank and replaced the check valve and gasket as well as the gas cap. My solenoids all test bad in my system though.
 

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Discussion Starter #20
You need to follow the BGB carefully. You apply 12V from the car battery to the solonoids and they click on and off. Also you apply pressure (I just blew thru a tube attached) on and off to see if there is proper reistance, ie is it working properly. Finally you check the resistance across the solonoids and make sure it is in the proper range.
 
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