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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
Hey guys, I just picked up a 2001 Spyder with 116k and I'm new to Toyota. The car got a huge leak and oil blow by from the exhaust (white smoke) when cold start. I just fine a dye leak detector and here is what I found. Look like someone did a poor job on the valve gasket and oil pan. There are overrun rubber sealant on the corner of valve cover and timing tensioner. I want to know if the engine is still worth saving? I'm planning a 2zz swap in the future.... what are the common leaking point for 1zz ?
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Steam at the exhaust is normal after a cold-start (depending on the ambient temperature. White smoke is not; it means you are getting coolant in a combustion chamber. Take a look at the spark plugs to see if one of them looks very different than the others. Get a copy of the shop manual (free online) to replace the valve cover gasket and fix possible chain tensioner and oil pan leaks.

Dave
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Steam at the exhaust is normal after a cold-start (depending on the ambient temperature. White smoke is not; it means you are getting coolant in a combustion chamber. Take a look at the spark plugs to see if one of them looks very different than the others. Get a copy of the shop manual (free online) to replace the valve cover gasket and fix possible chain tensioner and oil pan leaks.

Dave
Thanks Dave. Will take your advice and I'm thinking to run a compression test when I check the spark plugs.
 

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On my 1zz the oil had been leaking for so long that even after I replaced the valve cover gasket I would get smoke from the engine bay sitting it traffic. The oil gunk was breaking down and getting all over the exhaust components. I had to pull the entire exhaust off the car and wash the back of of the engine with grease remover and water before I could get rid of the smoking in traffic.If yours is that bad, simply replacing gaskets might not solve any oil burning smell issues without a thorough cleanup. If your compression is bad and you are getting blow-by then you know what to do. Swap
 

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A Cylinder Compression Test, will not tell you anything about the oil Control Rings..

My 01' Started out life with a 220 PSI Compression Test.. and at 300K and Smoking on Command, It still had a 200 PSI Compression Pressure..

Cap
 

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Discussion Starter #6
A Cylinder Compression Test, will not tell you anything about the oil Control Rings..

My 01' Started out life with a 220 PSI Compression Test.. and at 300K and Smoking on Command, It still had a 200 PSI Compression Pressure..

Cap
I thought the BGB said 184 psi is the standard. Is 200 psi too high? Did you end up change the ring? Where's the ring exactly? Lol
 

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220 is really high for a Spyder.. It's not an Issue, just not normal.. however other Spyders have also reported the +200 PSI Compression Pressure..

My Speculation is it has to do with the Cam Timing, or Cam lobe design.. in the production years, the Cam was changed.. but the change has never been documented..

The 'Rings' are what seal the Pistons. The Oil Control rings are a Scraper, that put oil onto the Cylinder, then Scrape the Proper Amount back off to prevent Piston Wear.. in the Case of the 'Oil Burning Spyder', the Scraper does not 'Float' to properly scrape the Oil back off..

This piston Rings are located in the Center parts of the Engine, and Not Replaceable without a Complete Engine Disassembly..

Cap
 

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I thought the BGB said 184 psi is the standard. Is 200 psi too high? Did you end up change the ring? Where's the ring exactly? Lol
I don't think the compression psi value is as important as the consistency between cylinders and if the value changes dramatically with an oil leak down.

A Cylinder Compression Test, will not tell you anything about the oil Control Rings..

My 01' Started out life with a 220 PSI Compression Test.. and at 300K and Smoking on Command, It still had a 200 PSI Compression Pressure..

Cap
That's crazy, I've never had a car burning oil on that level without it showing up in some sort of a compression test, but then again I guess I've never seen a car eat it's own catalytic converter so...
 

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I don't think the compression psi value is as important as the consistency between cylinders and if the value changes dramatically with an oil leak down.


That's crazy, I've never had a car burning oil on that level without it showing up in some sort of a compression test...
True. The absolute compression measurement will depend on altitude, the weather, and the condition of the battery and starter as well as the cam timing.

Usually, a car starts to burn oil as the rings wear out. However the early 1zz engines burn oil because of a specific failure of the oil rings due to a design flaw, not because of wear.
 

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OP, what is your rate of oil loss through leaking/burning?
 

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I finally fixed my pesky oil leak from multiple locations with a kswap. Good riddance to that terrible engine. You should start looking at that route rather than "fixing" whats broken.
 

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Zspyder : Your cat seem to leak as there seem to have horizontal crack shown in your picture.
Clean your valve cover gasket, chain tentionner and oil pan zones with brake cleaner. If there is a oil leak, you will see it quickly.
Valve Cover protuberance seal is normal. You have to replace it before replacing valve cover gasket.

Couvre culasse - couple de serrage.png
 

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Discussion Starter #13
I may have to power wash the engine bay with grease remover in the weekend coz there are too much oil everywhere it's hard to find where the leak comes from. It mostly comes from the right side of the engine when I was under the car. It was wet under the exhaust manifold flange where it connects the engine head. The engine is leaking even without starting the engine.
 

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Zspyder : Your cat seem to leak as there seem to have horizontal crack shown in your picture.
Clean your valve cover gasket, chain tentionner and oil pan zones with brake cleaner. If there is a oil leak, you will see it quickly.
Valve Cover protuberance seal is normal. You have to replace it before replacing valve cover gasket.

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Or if you don't want to pollute and asphyxiate yourself with brake cleaner fumes, try Simple green with a wash-off with water.
 

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Discussion Starter #15 (Edited)
I clean off the engine and ran a compression test. All 4 cylinder were 120 psi which is a lot lower than 185 psi on BGB. Now I can see the major leak from oil pan. The valve cover gasket also leak as there were oil on spark plugs when I pull them out. I also found leak under the header heat shield that I'm not sure where it comes from. Is the engine still worth saving at this point? I just want register the car and drive it as is for a season before swap but wondering if it would pass inspection in NJ
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Edit: I did not step on the throttle yesterday. I redo the test today and got 150 psi on all 4 cylinder.
 

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You still haven’t quantified your rate of oil loss. AFAIK NJ has a similar inspection to NY (OBDII & emissions). No one will really be able to tell you for sure because it will come down to the emissions test and while you may have multiple leaks & burning oil we don’t know the rate and whether you are smoking like a chimney or not.

With those compression numbers, especially if you are hemorrhaging oil...I don’t know what you are referring to when you say ‘saving the engine.’ There is no saving unless you are referring to a total rebuild. Otherwise ‘running it into the ground until my engine swap’ would be a more accurate description. Even if you are able to get it registered I would definitely not take it on any trips far from home
 

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Discussion Starter #17
You still haven’t quantified your rate of oil loss. AFAIK NJ has a similar inspection to NY (OBDII & emissions). No one will really be able to tell you for sure because it will come down to the emissions test and while you may have multiple leaks & burning oil we don’t know the rate and whether you are smoking like a chimney or not.

With those compression numbers, especially if you are hemorrhaging oil...I don’t know what you are referring to when you say ‘saving the engine.’ There is no saving unless you are referring to a total rebuild. Otherwise ‘running it into the ground until my engine swap’ would be a more accurate description. Even if you are able to get it registered I would definitely not take it on any trips far from home
How to quantify the rate of oil loss? I meant to run the engine until it dies but I still need to register the car. There's no CEL though after I changed the o2 sensor on the 1 of the precat.
 

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I would think the previous owner would tell you that it burns xquarts per xxmiles when discussing the smoke from the tailpipe. Also, if you haven't driven your CEL likely hasn't been fully reset. It takes several drive cycles to do this.
 

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Here how I check the oil consuption :
  • drain engine oil and refill it as Toyota preconisation
  • reset your dashboard miles to start from 0 mile
  • check every day oil dipstick level (if you drive you car all days)
  • check until you see oil start to be almost dangerously low after reading oil dipstick.
  • drain engine oil while using something to keep drained oil
  • measure drained oil quantity and compare it to the mile number you dove.
 

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Discussion Starter #20
I would think the previous owner would tell you that it burns xquarts per xxmiles when discussing the smoke from the tailpipe. Also, if you haven't driven your CEL likely hasn't been fully reset. It takes several drive cycles to do this.
He didnt tell me much about the oil consumption. But he said the car has been driven 3k miles and was time for oil change when I picked up the car. The next thing I know the engine only spilled out about less than 3qt when I changed the oil the next day. I would assume that was about 1.5 qt leak/burn per 3k miles.
 
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