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2000 MR2 1ZZ, 2002 Corolla 3ZZ, 2008 Avensis Estate 2AD-FTV
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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hey Guys.

My little red MR2 is running great...mostly :D
Over the Winter I managed to rebuild the 4 brake calipers, replaced the rear wheel bearings, replaced the front shocks by new Kayabas, fitted Eibach 30mm springs and painted the valve cover with wrinkle paint.
The agility is sensational, especially on Austrian back roads.

Buuuut, the little 1ZZ shows some oil consumption (1l per 1500km) - imagine that :p. I rebuild one of these engines 5 years ago to stock configuration, so I know them inside out.
I am aware of the fact that these engines are notorious for oil consumption.

Going back an forth what to do now, the most sensible thing to do is to rebuild the 1ZZ with aftermarket parts.
(I wanted to have a 2ZZ, but that's...let's say cannot be done legally here in Austria. Mostly because of taxes, since taxes are in direct proportion to engine power and of course other stuff, that the government thinks won't be safe…) So not going to happen. Also, because 2ZZ's are rare and in great condition quite expensive (Everbody here is about crappy VW's).
I don't want to have a turbo - same stuff: not legal, or extremely expensive to get it approved by the government.
Same with supercharger.
But if a great 2ZZ shows up for little I would take my chances :D (Not realistic...)

So, the only thing left are some performance mods to the 1ZZ along the ride.
OEM parts are expensive as hell here in Austria - set of pistons with rings is 1000 €....

Bottom line:
I am thinking of Wiseco 12:1 pistons, Crower stage 1 cams, valve springs and a exhaust header along with a metal catalytic converter.
Still, this won*t be legal, but nobody will be able to tell - numbers are matching…:p

Does anybody have some experience with Wiseco pistons in the 1ZZ and other parts? Any advice?
Engine management will be a Link G4+ Thunder :D


Thanks in advance!
BR,
Dom
 

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Valve cover and brakes turned out great!

I don’t know about 12:1 it’s been awhile since I’ve seen an NA build on a 1ZZ but I know it’s been done. I have Wiseco pistons in mine but 8.8:1 and they’re great. No issues.

That’s crazy your country increases taxes for HP. Do you have any type of emissions testing? I’m intrigued.


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2000 MR2 1ZZ, 2002 Corolla 3ZZ, 2008 Avensis Estate 2AD-FTV
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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Thanks!

I am not looking for much peak power gains. I am hoping for 170ish hp. I am aiming for a wide torque band and a useable engine on the street.

That's good enough for me. I am mostly interested in reliability of Wiseco pistons in the 1ZZ. The other option here is OEM 3ZZ pistons. 3ZZ is the 1.6l variant with 10mm less stroke. That gives the 1ZZ 11.67:1 compression. I have that 3ZZ in my 02 Corolla with 1ZZ throttle body and intake - has 130ish hp, but loves to rev. Great engine with the short gears.

Yeah and it is reeeeaaallly expensive. I pay 820€ per year for my MR2 (insurance and taxes which are 550).
Friend of mine pays 4400 per year for his R35 GT-R with 550hp.

Of course, we have a annual technical inspection, where you have like 1 month to come back after failing. Also they can put the subject tested to "fail" or to "dangerous", where the police can confess your license plates e.g. brakes with completely worn pads, or oil leak that catches the suspension. The technical inspection includes emission testing - limits for injected petrol engines with O2 Sensor and catalytic converter: 60 ppm of HC and 0,3Vol% CO and Lambda 0,97 to 1,03 at idle and high idle (2000-3000rpm engine warm).
Not really hard to fulfil. This is for every car from legislation EU1 to EU6d.

Here's the deal with tuner cars:
Every change in suspension geometry - even lowering, every change in power, lights, environmental subjects (i.e. noise) and so on has to be approved. So you can have a Nissan S14 with HKS silent high power exhaust legally, but you will have to pay a civil engineer to have a look and then write a certificate which goes to a department of the government. That's expensive as hell. We're talking 4 digit numbers for a tuner car, that has a coil over suspension, some wheels, and a exhaust system. I am not interested in those kind of payments....
Regarding power: You can up the engine's output to the limit of 30% more than standard. Over 30% you are asked to have a full emission legislation to insure that the a emission legislation is not under the car's basic legislation (e.g. MR2 is EURO 3). Such a legislation test is really expensive and also quite hard to fulfil with a tuning engine.
and with more power legally you will pay more taxes.

Those reasons lead me to an engine build which cannot be exposed by the police or the technician that does the annual test.

But I am grateful for any advice on 1ZZ builds and parts.

Mostly forgot - this is what it looks like now.
I really don't want to get rid of the little red sports car. :D

BR,
Dom
 

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Wow that’s tough! The more I learn about other countries emissions and regulations for cars the more I realize why the US is a haven for tuners. Even California doesn’t sound bad compared to your regulations you have to work under.

I’ve never heard of a 3ZZ, the Corolas here were 1ZZ, 2ZZ and then no more ZZ motors after that. As long as you have a good cat higher compression with a tune should be fine to sneak by the technical inspector as long as they don’t look at the OBD. Someone who has experience with cams should speak up though because they can make idle a little rough. But it sounds like you can run a higher idle legally? So that should be fine as you will be able to smooth the idle out. But again, without a free flowing exhaust the cams and pistons aren’t going to be able to breathe too well and it sounds like you need to keep the exhaust level down there. I’m sure there are silencers that can be had for that but it would be a shame to do that l to your motor just to be limited by exhaust flow.


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2000 MR2 1ZZ, 2002 Corolla 3ZZ, 2008 Avensis Estate 2AD-FTV
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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Yep that's true.

Yep and there is also the 4ZZ which is die the 1.4l variant. 71,3mm stroke. has 97 metric hp. city car. That's btw the most sold variant in Austria of the petrol engines. Mostly Austrians buy diesel, because of lower fuel consumption and lower fuel price tags. I am not used to engines that rod-knock all the time :D

The Link G4+ series will connect to the OBD2 port via CAN. The protocol for engine management via OBD2 is standardized world wide - should be fine.
Basic idle is around 650. I will be glad if it runs at 850. Nobody will notice below 1000rpm.
I am aiming for a header. There are some headers out there with the fixations for the OEM heat shields. That will be fine.
Catalytic converter will be a 200cpsi unit. But the Spyder does not have a lot of silencers, the stock one is giant.

I have to state, that the header without the pre-cats (which should kill the most power (potential)) is not legal any more, since the car will not be EU3 anymore, but you know - what the officer does not notice won't make any problems :D

Any experience on exhaust?

BR,
Dom
 

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From my experience modding a 1ZZ I would go with a light flywheel, Maf mod and stage1 cams, everything else stock. I don't think you will get close to 170 bhp at the wheel. The best I have managed is 136 bhp at the wheel which might be 155 at the flywheel per marketing specs. I spent a week last July driving across Austria, Vienna to Innsbruck beautiful country!
 

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Wiseco are good. The engine rebuiler make the most important work.
When you rebuild 1ZZ-FE engine, "Toyota Genuise Part" (or OEM if you cannot) mean quality rebuild.
It's expensive, but it will make THE difference over time. Especially if you planne to modd/use the car at highs rpms.

From my experience, stock internal 1ZZ-FE with lightweight flywheel, PPE cold air intake AND Corolla/Celica TS transmission make the car run alot faster.
Stocks cars below 210hp can't keep up in straight line. It's just that almost nobody show in video the difference of the MOD for the Toyota MR-S.
While adding standalone tune, my car archived 162hp and 186,33nm. The torque is almost same as stock, with just higher number. The car is not far behind against cars like stock Renault Megane 3R by exemple. Mainly, the long ratio transmission kill the MR-S performances.

Your taxes in Austria and other thngs are a mix between France, Belgium and Switzerland :
  • France you will not pass if bad emissions (Co2, Nox etc), taxes depending of car's engine power, but cops are lighter about lights mods
  • Belgium don't allow car modifications (they are very strict about it, even in standard control by cops, you can back home on your feet)
  • Switzerland you can moddify your car, say it to your assurance while paying more but you're legal (but they don't laught about overspeed)
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Sorry, I meant 170 at the flywheel is what I am hoping for. The Link ECU should be able to unleash some potential hidden in the little 1ZZ. This is the reason, why I want to up the compression. 10:1 is waaay too low for Austrian fuel quality (RON 95 to 100). 3 and 4ZZ have 10.5:1, but it could be 11,5+ for the not daily driven Spyder. So I am good with RON 100.
With the exhaust header and I almost forgot: port match it should be quite good. Also, the higher compression ratio will help to increase BMEP - aim is 13bar.
light flywheel is mandatory, the stock one provides a way too lazy engine response. Which unit is to be recommended?

Thanks! It is indeed a beautiful country. There are some reeeally great mountain passes across the alps. Up to 2200m altitude.
I am from Graz, second biggest city in Austria.

@Funnyman, You're right. The stock tranny is waay too long.
For our American friends: In Europe, we do not have the C56 out of the US Celica with the 4.312 final and the short 3rd and 4th. We have 3.166/1.904/1.310/0.969/0.815 but 3.941 final.
So, the car does 105 kph in 2nd and 150 in 3rd.

At least I would go for a Celica S 6 Speed C63 which came as standard in EU.
has the 4.312 final.

Which ECU are you using @Funnyman ?
What did you do to the cluster bus system (Called BEAN) that drives the temp gauge and oil pressure light?

BR,
Dom
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 · (Edited)
that 3cyl fiesta has 125 turbo hp, so it is not that bad as it may sound when you hear 3 cyl. :p


I am currently diving into my Spyder's the wiring diagram and came across one problem regarding a stand alone ECU:

The car has the BEAN System. There's a relatively small data stream of the bus between the cluster and the ECU.
The ECU sends: Coolant Temp, Oil pressure light signal, alternator light signal engine temp.
The ECU receives: A/C request from the switch, A/C evap temp to know when to shut of the A/C compressor.

I want to have as much functionality as possible, since the Link G4+ has the capability of supporting all those functions. So climate control is mandatory.

What is the work around here? What do the guys with Honda K Serie swap do?

Otherwise, the implementation of the Link G4+ should be feasible. There are some wires to and from ABS and P/S which only are for engine running signal and idle up - so simple 12V in and out.


BR
Dom
 

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I used standalone Apexi Power FC with Commander. No wirring needed. The car keep almost all his functionality.
OBD do not work anymore and check engine work only in dangerous engine situation. So you can run badly without check engine light.

Apexi Power FC is good for 1ZZ-FE tuner (this is an old technology), because it's affordable ($705 in France). BUT you have to have special link cable to connect the PFC to computer. And more important thing, you have to know a dynotuner that know well the PFC.

If I would go to standalone again, I will pay for a AEM EMS4 ($2000 in France). BUT, you keep all OEM functions, anti-lag and others recents things.
K-swap owner's haden't coolant temperature. But it seems that the problem has been resolved by a tuner. I read his thing here or on another forum.

For the flywheel, as you live in Austria, I will say to go to Fidanza. Pressure plate can be replaced ($130 shipped from UK to France).
The MonkeyWrench Racing one is good too, but you will pay taxes maybe. That can increase the price.
All boths flywheels have aproxymatively the same weight of 9,1lbs.

I tried the Celica C63 gearbox. It's slightly better than the EURO, especialy the shorter 4th gear (112mph). But the C64 of TS's is still better in sensation.
With the TS's one, engine is still in his power's range (between 5500 and 7000 rpms). But, the gears are fragiles compare to C64 and C60 EURO's.
You have here my tuned MR-S with Celica 1zz and Corolla TS transmission. It give you a brief thing of the goal that you want :
 

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Hey Guys.

My little red MR2 is running great...mostly :D
Over the Winter I managed to rebuild the 4 brake calipers, replaced the rear wheel bearings, replaced the front shocks by new Kayabas, fitted Eibach 30mm springs and painted the valve cover with wrinkle paint.
The agility is sensational, especially on Austrian back roads.

Buuuut, the little 1ZZ shows some oil consumption (1l per 1500km) - imagine that :p. I rebuild one of these engines 5 years ago to stock configuration, so I know them inside out.
I am aware of the fact that these engines are notorious for oil consumption.

Going back an forth what to do now, the most sensible thing to do is to rebuild the 1ZZ with aftermarket parts.
(I wanted to have a 2ZZ, but that's...let's say cannot be done legally here in Austria. Mostly because of taxes, since taxes are in direct proportion to engine power and of course other stuff, that the government thinks won't be safe…) So not going to happen. Also, because 2ZZ's are rare and in great condition quite expensive (Everbody here is about crappy VW's).
I don't want to have a turbo - same stuff: not legal, or extremely expensive to get it approved by the government.
Same with supercharger.
But if a great 2ZZ shows up for little I would take my chances :D (Not realistic...)

So, the only thing left are some performance mods to the 1ZZ along the ride.
OEM parts are expensive as hell here in Austria - set of pistons with rings is 1000 €....

Bottom line:
I am thinking of Wiseco 12:1 pistons, Crower stage 1 cams, valve springs and a exhaust header along with a metal catalytic converter.
Still, this won*t be legal, but nobody will be able to tell - numbers are matching…:p

Does anybody have some experience with Wiseco pistons in the 1ZZ and other parts? Any advice?
Engine management will be a Link G4+ Thunder :D


Thanks in advance!
BR,
Dom
Hello Dom,

Maybe you can help me? I rebuilt by rear brake calipers and painted, but can not find this dust cover for slide pin.

If you have any ideas, websites, companies, that may have...please advise. In the USA, must companies just buy new/reburb units. Do not want to go that route because I spend time to paint.

I am hoping in Europe/Austria parts may be available?

pics attached.

Thank you in advance,
Mr. P
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
OK thanks @Funnyman, but I will stick to my Link G4+ Thunder ECU that I have. I will have to do a workaround for the signals, but I will keep you updated. I do not want to use the PFC, 1) it is still not cheap and does not provide the functions I want to play with (e.g. EGT, Logging, E-Throttle, a reaaally comprehensive tuning capability etc.)
BTW: Your car does well!


We will see. Maybe, I will leave the stock ECU in place, to drive these 5 functions, orI willperform a workaround with the Thunder ECU.


hi @Mr. P I can help you out.!
Yep, I found rebuild kits in an online store in Europe. I will post a link later on with the exact parts you´ll need. Quility is ok but time will tell if it is Toyota quality. I also did not want to buy new OEM calipers, because here in Austria Toyota dealers are crazy with their prices. OEM Piton is 170€ w/o rings or pin...crazy....

BR,
Dom
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
@Funnyman
Did you put your LSD in the C64?

The short gearing is geat, i have to admit!
What else did you change on the
engine?
The tune alone did not push outout to 163hp I suppose?

Thanks for your advice regarding flywheel and trans!
C64's are rare in Austria.
Everbody drives VW's...
I have a used C63.
But the shift linkage is at the front, whereas the Spyder's linkage is rear mounted.

What is the splution for this?


BR
Dom
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
@Mr. P :
1) Reparatursatz, Bremssattel BUDWEG CALIPER 205129 - Autoteile Shop Österreich
I installed those in the front (Budweg caliper are quite good parts)
2) Reparatursatz, Bremssattel FRENKIT 245026 Hinterachse - Autoteile Shop Österreich
And those on the rear.
I purchased at this online store - delivery was quick - to be recommendet!

There are also Budweg Caliper kits for the rear available, those include the slider bush where the bolt goes through. But those are more than 2 times the price and since my bushes were good, so I went for the Frenkit.
Parts fit well.
Just make sure you get ALL the rust out of the groove where the dust seal for the piston sits. Mine were pretty rusty. If that is the case, you just won't be able to get the dust seal sitting in the groove correctly and the piston will push it out as it travels through the bore.


BR,
Dom
 

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The C63 and C64 gearbox in video didn't have LSD.
The C64 that I currently have on my MR-S is fitted with LSD. I have bought it in UK by Rogue Motorsport.
The transmission has been refectionned and worns pieces have been replaced. It was pricey, but I worth it.

The engine in video had stock internals :
  • SP98 > Apexi PFC, PPE cai (the first version), PPE 4in1 header + sport cat, stock TTE exhaust, Fidanza flywheel
  • E85 > same setup with retuned PFC, Lotus Exige SC injectors (440cc), MWR flywheel, AEM 320L/H fuel pump spec.E85
> 162hp on SP98 --- 157hp on E85.
For converting a C63 in Spyder, you have to buy a plug (27mm I think) to close the hole on the wrong side of the gearbox.
You just have to reusing your Corolla/MR-S 6 speed transmission shiftershaft, linkages and all the things attached to tit. But if you have the 5 speed, you have to buy a 6 speed or MWR shiftershaft. This one will be a little too long because you will close C63 gearbox's "wrong side", so you will need to cut it of ~3cm.

 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
Thanks a lot, I will dig into that topic since I have a Celica C63 laying around in okay condition. So some new bearings and seals and good to go.

So my engine will receive the following parts:
1) 12:1 Wiseco pistons with 79.5mm
2) Crower Stage 1 cams
3) exhaust header
3) light fly wheel
4) link G4+ Thunder
5) E-Throttle conversion
6) oh and not to forget a head and port clean up, get rid of sharp edges.

What is for sure the highest engine speed with stock valve springs before running into valve float?
I am trying not to increase wear in the valve train with higher rate springs, since the 1ZZ has only 5.5mm valve stems.
What is the experience with that?

BR,
Dom
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
What was your wheel power with SP98? a 1ZZ with stock internals that makes a 162 hp? That would be really great!

BR,
Dom
 

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On SP98, my old engine archived 129,3 WHP.
MonkeyWrench Racing can help you for your 1ZZ engine rebuild. Years ago, they had full bolt-on 1ZZ-FE (AAC stage.3, lightweight cranksahft, pulley etc).
I don't remember exactly the power number (maybe 187hp). But they said that their engine shoulded be more powerfull than a 2ZZ swap engine (more torque/power range etc).
 

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