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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
is the 1zz and interference engine, and has the possibility of decking the head to raise compression been tried with any decent results.

reason i ask is i'm trying to guage if the 2zz + 6 spd swap is worth time/money.

also what are some typical torque numbers the 1zz is capable of producing with the normal bolt ons.

i'm not looking for anything crazy. just trying to decide if it'd just be easier to put a couple things on the 1zz.

another question: what is the stock redline of both 1zz and 2zz and what are the determining factors that limit them from factory? valvetrain, bottom end, cam design, etc?

i've been trying to read as much as i can in the library, but if there have been threads discussing these things already, please let me know, and sorry in advance if i wasted a thread.
 

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bolt ons + 1zz=waste of money and time (unless your only looking for like 10 or so hp and torque)
If you want to get power out of the 1zz, you will probably want to turbo it.
Yes the 2zz +6speed swap is definitely worth your time if your looking for around 180 reliable whp, rev limit on the 2zz all depends on which ecu you run, if you get an Apex'i Power FC, most of us with stock internals find it beneficial to set the limit at around 8600RPM's. i think the 1zz factory rev limit is somewhere around 7200 if i recall correctly, hope i was of some help :mrgreen: .
 

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MWR recently (a month or two ago) made a post about a 1zz Celica they built up for a track car. If you search for it it had some dyno's posted. Probably the best numbers NA 1zz I've seen.

David
 

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I belive the 1zz redlines at 7,000 RPMs don't quote me though
 

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I think redline is 6800 and shut off is 7200.
 

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I believe it was determined that actual rev limit is 6900 rpms as per dyno sheets.
 

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1zz = economy engine

2zz = race engine

If you've ever seen the blocks side by side (even just the outside), there is quite a noticable difference.
 

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Originally posted by DARKSTAR
1zz is shit
Sorry about your engine man but not all 1zz's are bad mine is fine for what I do, and that is take corners faster than what is considered safe in most cars. 8)
 
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Originally posted by DARKSTAR
1zz is shit
Just think of it this way. Someone could spend the money to buy a spare 1zz engine (if they wanted, but not even required), buy the parts to build it up and the engine would be nearly equal and in other ways arguably much more capable than a 2zz would for forced induction...AND it would cost less than a 2zz swap (stock 2zz).

1zz is not shit, I plan on sticking with the 1zz when I come back. Then again I'm about turbo, you say that's not an option for you (if I remember correct)...so like I said long ago, between SC 1zz and 2zz, go with a 2zz.
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
i have seen the mwr post about their NA 1zz build, and i think its very impressive, but like i said before, i'm not looking for anything crazy. 130-140 whp with similar torque would be plenty for me. i'm comming off an AE86 with almost no power, so i dont need much.

Handling is the focus anyway, i just want something with decent pull out of corners.

in the post about the MWR build, it just says "stage 3 head", well does anyone know exactly what the piston to valve clearance is on the 1zz, or if itd even be effective to deck the head.

i took 0.025" off the 4ag and figured it out to be 10.8-11:1 compression (nice gain of 9.4 stock). which isnt crazy at all, but was fairly effective for the cost. $30

anyone done this before? or is it even possible?
 

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I ran my car boosted for over 30K miles on the stock 1ZZ. I think the 1ZZ is a great motor.

www.tmrmzine.com/mr2
 

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Originally posted by rodgers
i have seen the mwr post about their NA 1zz build, and i think its very impressive, but like i said before, i'm not looking for anything crazy. 130-140 whp with similar torque would be plenty for me. i'm comming off an AE86 with almost no power, so i dont need much.

Handling is the focus anyway, i just want something with decent pull out of corners.

in the post about the MWR build, it just says "stage 3 head", well does anyone know exactly what the piston to valve clearance is on the 1zz, or if itd even be effective to deck the head.

i took 0.025" off the 4ag and figured it out to be 10.8-11:1 compression (nice gain of 9.4 stock). which isnt crazy at all, but was fairly effective for the cost. $30

anyone done this before? or is it even possible?
rodgers, if you're looking for 130-140 whp, this can be achieved with an aftermarket header, cold air intake, exhaust and a Unichip. Alhough this is the route I have chosen, I have gotten quite bored with the power output and I'm now shopping around for a turbo.
 

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I think what gets confused most often is the reliability of the stock configuration (esp. precats), the skill of toyota mechanics working on most peoples cars, etc. compared to the quality of the actual engine itself.
 

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Originally posted by 22XY
If you've ever seen the blocks side by side (even just the outside), there is quite a noticable difference.
Definitely!
 

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Originally posted by kingspyder
I believe it was determined that actual rev limit is 6900 rpms as per dyno sheets.
Now that sounds more like it...the last dyno I have with the stock ecu cut off at 6912rpm.
(who knows how exact that is, but that's what it lists anyway)
 
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