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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Going to pick up the 2ZZ this Sunday and had a question about lowering out a 1ZZ.

I've looked over the following guide extensively: http://www.mr2spyder.net/spyderweb/index.php?/topic/7-dropping-a-deuce-zz/

The OP mentions his guide can be applied to more than 90% of removing a 1ZZ. Which of course brings my question, what portions of removing the 1ZZ are not covered?

I am only asking mainly for people familiar with dmc-4359's guide that he wrote, but if anyone else knows right off the bat, that'd be great too.
 

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Going to pick up the 2ZZ this Sunday and had a question about lowering out a 1ZZ.

I've looked over the following guide extensively: http://www.mr2spyder.net/spyderweb/index.php?/topic/7-dropping-a-deuce-zz/

The OP mentions his guide can be applied to more than 90% of removing a 1ZZ. Which of course brings my question, what portions of removing the 1ZZ are not covered?

I am only asking mainly for people familiar with dmc-4359's guide that he wrote, but if anyone else knows right off the bat, that'd be great too.
I used his guide when I did my swap. It's pretty much the same proceedure when removing a 1ZZ or 2ZZ from a spyder. The biggest difference for most of us is that we're probably not doing it on a lift. I did mine in my garage using an engine hoist, jackstands and a dolly.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
I used his guide when I did my swap. It's pretty much the same proceedure when removing a 1ZZ or 2ZZ from a spyder. The biggest difference for most of us is that we're probably not doing it on a lift. I did mine in my garage using an engine hoist, jackstands and a dolly.
And I'll be using your guide also to do my swap!

I'm figuring everything is covered in his 2ZZ drop out guide basically; I'll just triple check everything is unbolted/unconnected/unplugged before lowering out.
 
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