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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
1zz Swap Preparation Checklist

I'm getting ready to swap out my blown 00' 1zz for a newer 1zz off an 03' SMT. I am trying to compile a list of stuff I need in order to avoid 20 trips to the parts store on the big day. The donor motor came with the flywheel, clutch, and pressure plate all attached and I wasn't intending on removing them. The clutch is fairly new.

Please help me fill in the blanks.

Scheduled for the week of July 14th, 2009. Anyone in the area is welcome to drop in and check out the process. Please just PM or call ahead first. :)

Attendees:

  • Darkday [ Definite ]
  • VAGperformance [ Definite ]
  • Nate [ Definite ]
  • Green Mica [ Probably drop by, hopefully in his newly 2zz'd Spyder ]
Auto Parts Store:

  • 5 Quarts - European Formula Castrol 0W-30
  • 5 Quarts - Dino motor oil for the first 500 miles - $1.89ea ✓
  • 3 Quarts - Redline MT90 Transmission Gear Oil (6-speed manual)
  • 4 - Spark plugs - NGK Iridium - [ BKR5EIX-11 5464 ] (re-using old ones) ✓
  • 1 -Gates Serpentine Belt - $43.00ea ✓
  • 1 Jar - GoJo - $1.29ea ✓
  • 1 Bottle - Fast Orange - $2.99ea ✓
  • 1 Bottle - FAST Drying Break cleaner - $3.79ea ✓
  • 1 Bottle - Stainless Steel cleaner
  • 1 - 2" Lift Strap for Hoist (3000+ lb capacity) - $24.99ea ✓
Toyota Parts:

  • 2 Gallons - Toyota Red Engine Coolant - $32.55ea ✓
  • 1 - OEM Oil Filter - $5.77ea ✓
  • 1 - OEM Air Filter [ P/N 17801-16020-83 ] (optional) - $19.93ea ✓
  • 1 - OEM Exhaust Crush Donut Gasket [ P/N 17451-22060 ] (optional) - $33.81ea ✓
  • 3 - OEM Exhaust Bolts Stud - Three Amigos (Manifold to Downpipe) - [ P/N - 90116-10146 ] - $ 2.26ea ✓
  • 6 - OEM Exhaust Lock Nuts - Three Amigos (Manifold to Downpipe) (extra 3 for Darkday) [ P/N - 90080-17187 ] - $2.07ea ✓
  • 2 - OEM Exhaust Bolts - (Downpipe to Muffler) [ P/N - 90080-10291 ] - $5.24ea ✓
  • 2 - OEM Exhaust Springs (Downpipe to Muffler) [ P/N - 90501-A0031 ] - $5.75ea ✓
  • 2 - OEM Exhaust Bolts - Manifold Heat shield - Top Half [ P/N - 91621-B0825] - $ea ✓
  • 2 - OEM Exhaust Bolt - Manifold Heat shield - Top Half [ P/N - 91621-J0814 ] - $ea ✓
  • 2 - OEM Exhaust Bolts - Manifold Heat shield - Bottom Half [ P/N - 91651-B0814] - $ea ✓
  • 2 - OEM Exhaust Manifold Bolts Stud - Top [ P/N - 17159] ✓
  • 2 - OEM Exhaust Manifold Nut - Top [ P/N - 91641-80835 ] ✓
  • 3 - OEM Exhaust Manifold Bolts - Bottom [ P/N - 91641-80835 ] ✓
  • 1 - OEM PCV Valve [ P/N 12204-22051] - $6.78ea ✓
  • 1 - OEM Exhaust Manifold Gasket [ P/N 17173-0D020] - $24.07ea ✓
  • 1 - OEM Fuel Pipe Clamp [ P/N 23841-22030 ] - $3.03ea ✓
  • 2 - OEM Axle Nuts [ P/N 90080-17238 ] - $7.00ea***
  • 2 - OEM Exhaust Pipe Donut Gasket [ P/N 90080-43036 ] (optional) - $8.09ea***
  • 1 - OEM Throw Out Bearing***
  • 1 - Gas Door Spring [ P/N 77366-17022 ] ( for Darkday ) - $1.78ea ✓
Tools

  • Hoist (not used) ✓
  • Jack & Jack stands ✓
  • Sockets, Wrenches & Air Tools ✓
  • Swivel sockets ✓
  • 24mm Socket (drain plug) ✓
  • 26mm Socket ✓
  • Floor Creeper
  • Breaker Bars ✓
  • Clutch Alignment Tool or 1 - Deepwell Socket and 6" Extension***
  • Torque Wrenches & 200 ft lbs Torque Wrench for installing axle nuts at ~159ft lbs***
  • Torque Wrenches ✓
  • Vice Grips ✓
  • Needle-Nose Pliers ✓
  • Big F'n Hammer ✓
  • Chisel ✓
  • Torch ✓
  • Pickle Fork for Ball Joints ✓
  • 02 Sensor Removal Tool ✓
  • E10 Socket for Stud Removal ✓
Miscellaneous

  • 2 Gallons - Distilled Water to mix with Coolant ✓
  • Big Green Book ✓
  • Fluid catch-cans ✓
  • Funnels w/ Hoses ✓
  • PB Blaster & Liquid Wrench
  • 2 - 8'x2"x6" board ✓
  • 1 - 4'x4'x3/4" plywood sheet ✓
  • Nails or screws ✓
  • Spyderchat & Friends
  • Antiseptic and Band-Aids ✓
  • 1 Pair - Mechanics Gloves (For me, Darkday is too manly for them :rolleyes:) ✓
  • 7 - Curse Words ✓
  • Beer ✓
  • Pie ✓
Member Tips:

  • Consider not removing Axel Nuts - Remove suspension and drop the whole assembly as one - Reason: Axel Nuts are a PITA. ✓
  • Engine,trans,x-member & axles (not wheel hubs) can all drop out the bottom as a "unit" or you can take out the axles, remove the x-member then drop the engine&trans as a "unit". ✓
  • Beware of A/C lines & O-Rings when disconnecting A/C Compressor. ✓
  • Make sure when you do the swap on the car you don't crack open your clutch line. ✓
  • Whatever you do don't hit the clutch pedal with the engine out. It will shoot the piston out of the slave cylinder and you will have hell on your hands. ✓
  • Clean OCV Valve and check Water Pump for any play ✓
  • Take the oil pan off the "new" engine and inspect the mesh on the oil pickup to be sure it not partially/clogged.
  • Clean the Oil Pickup Tube and anything else you can think of while it is out
  • Buy the cheapest oil and transmission fluid you can buy for the swap. - Reason: Bonds with contaminants. Change after 500-1000 miles. ✓
  • Service the Belt Tensioner
Related Threads:

Questions for Members:

  • Should I remove the engine bay lid? [ Answer: YES ]
  • Can the oil pan support the weight of the entire motor if I were to tilt it upright? [ Answer: NO. ]
  • Should I remove the oil pan for the install to prevent damaging it? [ Answer: NO. Build a wooden box frame around the oil pan]
  • My chassis is a 2000, but the donor engine is an 03. I was planning on using all parts from the 03+.catalog. Is there any part in this list I should get from the 00-02 catalog instead?
  • Is an oil pump necessary when filling the transmission with gear oil? Would a funnel & hose suffice? [ Answer: OPTIONAL. I will fill the speed sensor hole via funnel + hose.]
I did my best looking up the part numbers only to discover most of the smaller parts aren't in there. I'll let Mr. T. sort that out.

Thanks for Everything,
-V

*** Denotes parts/procedures that are optional or unnecessary per my application. Thus, this information should be considered relevant on a case-by-case basis.

Update 07/25/2009

Remaining Items until I'm back on the road:


  • Mix & Fill Coolant
  • Purchase 24mm socket ✓
  • Fill Transmission Oil
  • Fill Motor Oil ✓
  • Install Serpentine Belt ✓
  • Install battery tray ✓
  • Install airbox ✓
  • Replace passenger motor mount (in mail from mk2mr2, thanks!) ✓
  • Replace suspension washer (in mail from darkday, thanks!) ✓
  • Install rear bumper crash bar ✓
  • Install rear swaybar and end links ✓
  • Replace driver's rear toe arm nut & tow plate ✓
  • Obtain & Install Che's Toe Arms (Arrived) ✓
  • Replace Exhaust Manifold lock nuts ✓
  • Replace valve (newly powder-cated) cover ✓
  • Bolt up PPE Cat ✓
  • Bolt up TTE Exhaust
  • Drill Spark Plug De-fouler for 02 Bung ✓
  • Remove Precats from new header ✓
  • Ceramic Coat Header (Maybe valve cover too) ✓
  • Install front brake line caps (cap? may have lost one)
  • Install taillights and rear bumper
  • Get an alignment
  • Replace Header or Drill out two of the 3 Amigo studs and remaining heat-shield bolts :icon_sad: ✓
  • Put the Pedal to the Floor
My Related Threads:

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=-0p;.banmeplease
 

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Here is one you will never hear from me but I recommend the cheapest oil and transmission fluid you can buy for the swap.

Also do not support the oil pan with a floor jack as it will bend the oil pan.
 

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Did you get new flywheel bolts? Also are you swapping in a new clutch? If so then you'll need the three alignment pins for the new clutch. If you need I can find pics for you.
 

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=[;'/≥banmeplease
 

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Cooling system capacity is 10qts and it took 12qts to fully bleed mine.

OEM T-stat

OEM SS exhaust manifold gasket.

OEM Clamp, fuel Pipe P/N 23841-22030. 1 @ $3.98. They break.

OEM axle nuts P/N 90080-17238. 2 @ $7.0/ea
200 ftlbs TQ wrench for installing axle nuts at ~159ft lbs.

OEM flywheel bolts if swapping FW's. P/N 90910-02103. 8 @ $8.00/ea

Take the oil pan off the "new" engine and inspect the mesh on the oil pickup to be sure it not partially/clogged.

Engine,trans,x-member & axles (not wheel hubs) can all drop out the bottom as a "unit" or you can take out the axles, remove the x-member then drop the engine&trans as a "unit".

Two 900lb capacity furniture dolly @ $20/ea from Lowes, HomeDepot for sliding the engine/tranny around. Also useful for mating engine and tranny back together.
 

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Discussion Starter #15 (Edited)
Thank you for all the feedback and suggestions, and with such haste!. You guys even hooked me up with part numbers. SC for the win! :)

Obviously I have some more reading to do as this will definitely be the biggest mechanical venture I've ever undertaken. Thanks for helping a noob out!

I'll bump the thread once I get it more organized for further review.

I am keeping the flywheel and clutch from the new motor. It's fairly new, so I see no reason to change it out yet. I've got the new engine on a four-wheel furniture dolly right now. It worked out well for getting it off the trailer it arrived on. We didn't even have to use the hoist.
 

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Discussion Starter #16
Here is one you will never hear from me but I recommend the cheapest oil and transmission fluid you can buy for the swap.

Also do not support the oil pan with a floor jack as it will bend the oil pan.
Is that because I will be changing it out shortly after putting a few miles on it?
 

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Is that because I will be changing it out shortly after putting a few miles on it?
The rational behind using cheap oil is mainly because if you have to drop your engine and transmission again you will have capture the expensive oil and transmission fluid. The other reason is because you can use the cheap oil to suspend any residue,condenstation and any other particulate.

Once you confirm that everything is running well after a good 500-1000 miles you can then switch to your favorite fluids.

Just buy the cheapest fluids available to save money because it really does not matter if you are going to keep it for the short interval.
 

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Thing to remember is this is not a NEW engine and tranny. It is his old tranny and the engine just came out of Green Mica's car a couple weeks ago. Not like it is coming from a salvage yard. So I would suggest using the MT90 for the tranny as it won't need to be changed and I would still probably just put in the oil you're going to use and run it for a couple thousand miles.
 
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