MR2 SpyderChat banner

1 - 20 of 74 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,072 Posts
Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
Here I'll document the next project for the MR2. The turbo build. I'll try to keep it simple this time....

Usually I tell a story about the history of the vehicle and me and blah blah blah but I'll save you all from that.

This time I'm just going post pictures to get you up to speed.

Cleaning/Painting Things:









First time washing the car in almost a year and realizing I have REALLY let it go:



Tearing down the motor:

Time Lapse on YouTube (1:03)

Staying organized:



Short block back from the machine shop:





Feeling creative:**EDIT** THE PISTONS ARE BACKWARDS IN THESE PICTURES! Ended up with bent valves because I didn't notice before I put the head on.
Had to rebuild the motor again, which is covered throughout the thread.




Test fitting the MWR center cubby pod....it does NOT fit well. And I only have one gauge to test fit...and it doesn't fit either haha So some dremel work to do here, probably with pictures



Head back on:



Timing Chain and cams in:





ARP Rod Bolts holding the MWR Rods together



Timed and sealed. Valve cover just sitting on top to keep dust out overnight



Side note, the Moroso pan makes the motor look like a space ship...

 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,522 Posts
I just realized you're in California, are you going to take the turbo off every two years to smog it? So much commitment lol.

Did you upgrade valve springs? I assume those are forged pistons, which should make the bottom end good for slightly more revs.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,072 Posts
Discussion Starter #4
Details

8.8:1 Wiseco Pistons, almost a shame you can't see them haha







MWR Forged Rods, wish I had a picture of the stock rods next to them, too late now



Valve cover has some really bad corrosion. I want it to look presentable being surrounded by the freshly painted bay....



Using a wire brush on a drill yields an acceptable result for me. Still working on the small parts in the coil tub, may clear coat it...may not



Left my Moroso pan up in the loft of the garage while painting the bay and it got really filthy inside, dead bugs and all. So took out the windage tray and cleaned it up:





European MR Roadster 6 Speed with LSD and 3.9 Final Drive



Got it used from MWR and I am pretty dissappointed that it's so filthy. I would have expected it to at least be pressure washed for the price. Was also shipped in a carboard box with packing foam stuffed into the box which seems inadequate. Used some engine degreaser and a pressure washer and it looks a lot better but still pretty rough. Probably going to leave it as is but who knows I might get the cleaning bug.

Where I'm at right now is my fault for not checking the valves and everything before sealing the timing cover....but I have cylinder 3 Exhaust side with a very loose valve. Glad I checked. Going to pull the cams and shims and get some measurements. First I'll see if I can get away with swapping the shims around.

Stay tuned, I'll update with pictures and such every so often. Can't wait to drive the thing again.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,072 Posts
Discussion Starter #5 (Edited)
Last picture I took of it when it was mobile



Love it, keep the updates coming!
Thanks! Moving right along.

I just realized you're in California, are you going to take the turbo off every two years to smog it? So much commitment lol.

Did you upgrade valve springs? I assume those are forged pistons, which should make the bottom end good for slightly more revs.
Stock head, not planning on raising the rev limit yet.

And yes, I am planning on removing the turbo every two years. I know I'll hate myself for it, but I'll only hate myself every two years haha
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
302 Posts
Last picture I took of it when it was mobile





Thanks! Moving right along.



Stock head, not planning on raising the rev limit yet.

And yes, I am planning on removing the turbo every two years. I know I'll hate myself for it, but I'll only hate myself every two years haha

Same here in Japan but at least it gets faster the more times you do it :)
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,072 Posts
Discussion Starter #8
Same here in Japan but at least it gets faster the more times you do it :)
That's true. But it's slow going considering I'll only do it every two years, yah? haha

Pics always do the talking way better than actual words. :lolup:
In this day and age, pictures > words. :biggrin:
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,072 Posts
Discussion Starter #9 (Edited)
So here's where I am now. This weekend I'm going to try and get the motor and trans married and into the car.
Still waiting on my oil pressure/temperature gauge and sandwich plate so I'll have to add them later and first start will hopefully be next weekend.

First thing tomorrow is replacing the lifters and rechecking valve lash.



Also, check out what a pressure washer and some engine degreaser did:



Could be better could be worse. Can't wait to see it sitting in the engine bay.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
672 Posts
Great thread! I thought I was impressive just getting the engine on the stand! Inner engine work is very cool and maybe our next step.

Thanks for the pics!
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
371 Posts
I think a stock 1zz is good for about 225 hp forced induction without issues. I could be wrong.

You must be shooting for at least 250-300 hp with all the internal modifications.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,072 Posts
Discussion Starter #14
I think a stock 1zz is good for about 225 hp forced induction without issues. I could be wrong.

You must be shooting for at least 250-300 hp with all the internal modifications.
Sure a stock 1ZZ will make 225 hp with stock internals, but if you're taking it to the track it's not going to last very long.

As far as my hp goals. Honestly, its what ever number I can safely make. I'd like somewhere between 225 and 275 ideally.

RIP 1st gear.

Yellow Spyders Unite!
1st gear will be a lot more usable with the longer final drive....but hooray for yellow! haha
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,072 Posts
Discussion Starter #15
So not quite done for the night but I had a little scare earlier:



This bolt stretched, luckily the threads in the head weren't compromised. Felt a pop at 10 ft. Lb and it wasn't from the torque wrench. Stopped immediately and backed it out, breathed a sigh of relief when a whole bolt came out. So another set back but it is what it is.

Went out and bought a bolt and washer to take its place until I can get one ordered from Toyota because i just need to get this motor together and in the car at this point.





As far as the lifters. The super loose valve ended up being at .23 mm clearance after the swapping which is not acceptable. Did some more swapping around and got all of the valves in spec again. Even got all of the exhaust valves on the looser side how I like it so I'm happy about that.

Just for fun here's some timing chain shots. If you're like me it's just so pleasing to see a fresh chain with those yellow links where they need to be haha





Well, back to the garage. This gave the silicone a little bit more time to dry before I put the valve cover on.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
371 Posts
with stock internals, but if you're taking it to the track it's not going to last very long.

As far as my hp goals. Honestly, its what ever number I can safely make. I'd like soSure a stock 1ZZ will make 225 hp mewhere between 225 and 275 ideally.


I thought about it later and realized I was thinking of the stock 'clutch' capabilities. I've read articles stating the stock 1ZZ is capable of handling over 300 hp forced induction from Monkey Wrench racing.

But yes, I get your point and feel 225 hp on stock internals is about max for long-term reliability.

I myself will probably get the P.E turbo kit. Supposedly good for a realistic 50-80 hp gain. I think 250 WHP is near optimum for the spyder to maintain its go-kart like characteristics without worrying about spinning out. Especially without a widened stance.


But don't get me wrong, 300 + hp in a spyder with the right chassis modifications could propel it into supercar status.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,072 Posts
Discussion Starter #17
I myself will probably get the P.E turbo kit. Supposedly good for a realistic 50-80 hp gain. I think 250 WHP is near optimum for the spyder to maintain its go-kart like characteristics without worrying about spinning out. Especially without a widened stance.
Here is the dyno chart from my PE Turbo kit with stock internals. High Flow Cat and HKS Muffler for the NA 1ZZ. Even with a A2W Intercooler.



The PE was awesome. Spooled up super fast, sounded awesome. But I want more....And even with the little bump in power it gave, the chassis was already showing signs of being overpowered. The brakes in particular felt rather inadequate coming into certain corners.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,072 Posts
Discussion Starter #18
Closer Picture of the valve cover finish:



Cleaned up the Fidanza Flywheel and bolted the new friction plate up. Motor is strapped to a second trans jack.



MWR Gorilla ST2 Clutch installed:



About to slide these together:



Horrible picture I know but here they are together on two trans jacks. Engine harness is just laying there.



So I cleaned up the garage, got the car at an angle to roll the powertrain in from behind. Need to pull the cradle back out and unwrap the harness and stuff from protecting it from painting and cleaning. Then I'll bolt the filler neck and all the lines in the back onto the firewall, fuse box and such. Run the tail light harness back from the firewall. And Walking Dead is on and my girlfriend has been very patient waiting for me haha



On the home stretch now as far as getting the heavy lifting done.
 
1 - 20 of 74 Posts
About this Discussion
73 Replies
23 Participants
AbandonMidship!
MR2 SpyderChat
SpyderChat Forum is a community for Toyota MR2 Spyder Enthusiasts to discuss specs, reliability and more!
Full Forum Listing
Top