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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
1zz PE turbo supposedly with 60k ish miles. Ran the PE turbo as originally designed off flooded injectors and no engine management. Ran fine-ish for a year. The ECU would get "confused " and I'd have to disconnect and allow it to reset.

Added Apexi and the 660 injectors. Had it tuned and it ran great. Loved the new power at only 8 psi. It started rev hunting intermittently 2-3 weeks later. Sometimes on start up and sometimes decelerating to a stop sign, at the stop. Would do it 3-4 times and then level off. Start up got harder and harder. At idle in the drive it would do it's rev hunting then level for a couple minutes and then do it again, repeating the sequence. when the revs went back up it would give a puff of black smoke sometimes. Came out one morning to difficulty cranking. Cranked, sounded like all the cylinders weren't firing (had sounded like that before) but then leveled off to normal idle. Looked back to a cloud of smoke. Next morning came out ready to video, cranked right up first try and no issues. Next morning, and these are back to back mornings, hard starting and then was doing it's rev hunting thing 1500-bottoming out. leveled, then went to hunting again and thunk! yeah that was the sound. kinda. spark and I have fuel pressure at the AFPR. Spark plugs had fuel on them, wet. Any thought before I tow it to a mechanic. I hate admitting defeat, but I just want to drive the car.

New 265 lph fuel pump
blocked FPR in housing
AEM AFPR
 

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I'd hate to think that the timing chain skipped but that is what it sounds like. Typical thunk! then no fire. Try spin the crankshaft by hand with a big wrench. Take the valve cover off and check the alignment marks of the camshafts.

The other issues are not related. IACV, vacuum leak, fuel mixture rich.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
I'd hate to think that the timing chain skipped but that is what it sounds like. Typical thunk! then no fire. Try spin the crankshaft by hand with a big wrench. Take the valve cover off and check the alignment marks of the camshafts.

The other issues are not related. IACV, vacuum leak, fuel mixture rich.
You're the second to say timing chain.....
IACV?
He tuned it to slightly rich. I actually had him turn it back because it was dumping black clouds
 

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Look it's obvious that you had issues from running a rich tune (black smoke) and either vacuum leak or IACV issue (idle hunting). Probably it would have been best to address these at some point prior. But this has nothing to do with thunk then no fire.

In addition to valve timing and crankshaft rotation, I would suggest a compression test and borescope inspection. It's possible that running with no IC and no knock control you got one of the ring lands to the point it just cracked. Running rich can help to cool the combustion chamber somewhat but you can only go so far like that.
 

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You're the second to say timing chain.....
IACV?
He tuned it to slightly rich. I actually had him turn it back because it was dumping black clouds
Black smoke is way beyond slightly rich. In fact it is richer than best-power fuel/air. You need a proper calibration.
 

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As to the rev-hunting, I've seen the MAF cause this before. Something to check anyway, once you have the thunk/no-fire sorted.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Look it's obvious that you had issues from running a rich tune (black smoke) and either vacuum leak or IACV issue (idle hunting). Probably it would have been best to address these at some point prior. But this has nothing to do with thunk then no fire.

In addition to valve timing and crankshaft rotation, I would suggest a compression test and borescope inspection. It's possible that running with no IC and no knock control you got one of the ring lands to the point it just cracked. Running rich can help to cool the combustion chamber somewhat but you can only go so far like that.
#1 155
#2 170
#3 165
#4 175
had a coil issue so #1 took a beating I think. Tuner set it slightly rich and the only time I get the black smoke was when the car struggled with the rev lag. It made adjustments and I'd get a puff. not every time, just went it sounded the most like it was about to stall out. The normal rev hunting I didn't notice, but it didn't seem to go to about to die revs.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
As to the rev-hunting, I've seen the MAF cause this before. Something to check anyway, once you have the thunk/no-fire sorted.
Fairly new MAF and I have two other MR2s that I've swapped with. I'm going to swap in the stock ECU just to see if I can get some sign of life.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Look it's obvious that you had issues from running a rich tune (black smoke) and either vacuum leak or IACV issue (idle hunting). Probably it would have been best to address these at some point prior. But this has nothing to do with thunk then no fire.

In addition to valve timing and crankshaft rotation, I would suggest a compression test and borescope inspection. It's possible that running with no IC and no knock control you got one of the ring lands to the point it just cracked. Running rich can help to cool the combustion chamber somewhat but you can only go so far like that.
It ran fine for weeks (black smoke only on the lowest rev issue and only when it about died). When it started acting up I double checked all my connections for vac and intake. I was trying to address those and then it just stopped.

Going to pull the valve cover today and check chain and timing. seems to be spinning a little too easy?????? So easy in fact, we thought maybe the starter was engaging, but it was. Cam position sensor???
 

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I think you need to plug in the stock ECM and see if it starts and runs. But that said, cylinder 1 has some low compression, I expect 180 on a 1zz. 155 is low.
 

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+1 on compression issue...not just the numbers but the variation between them as well. Rev hunting can be many things (MAF, bad coils/plugs, IACV issue) but I don't think its the bigger issue for you
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
The compression numbers are not great but they should not preclude the engine from firing. The repair manual suggests that the minimum is 145psi. I've seen motors fire on even less. I would follow this up with a leak-down test. Also read the NOTICE regarding the wet test for a cylinder reading low.

View attachment 84483
supposedly this is a 60k JDM engine. the other MR2 I have with 200k on it is 175 and better
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
+1 on compression issue...not just the numbers but the variation between them as well. Rev hunting can be many things (MAF, bad coils/plugs, IACV issue) but I don't think its the bigger issue for you
I wouldn't think the IACV would cause a no start???
 

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Plugs all good from running to fat?
What was your hp and torque numbers?
Depending on the turbo size if the tuner said a little rich is that at full load?
I’m just wondering if the 660 injectors aren’t a little to rich at low end?
If you were having coil issues with #1 cylinder maybe that plug is fouled and maybe some of the others are too?
Try throwing another set of plugs in it and see if it will fire up?
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
Plugs all good from running to fat?
What was your hp and torque numbers?
Depending on the turbo size if the tuner said a little rich is that at full load?
I’m just wondering if the 660 injectors aren’t a little to rich at low end?
If you were having coil issues with #1 cylinder maybe that plug is fouled and maybe some of the others are too?
Try throwing another set of plugs in it and see if it will fire up?
I may replace all the plugs, I'm upgrading my coils to make sure they are all good. 200 hp and the 175 torque. I didn't get too much into his business. I told him I wanted to drive it and it not destroy itself. We are only at 8 psi and it (we) wanted to push more but I had an air bubble in the a2w and it wasn't cooling. If someone recommends a different size injector? I only want to do about 12 psi. I think that was the size injector recommended with the A'pexi ECU on MWR? I open to suggestions. It ran fine on the stock injectors before the ECU change (at about 145 hp). The #1 coil didn't have that spring in it and not sure if that's why, but there was some discoloration inside and the spark melted the plastic inside the coil. Not sure how long that had been going on but apparently #1 didn't like it. I pulled all the plugs and they looked good but after it died they were wet. Smelled like gas, and they dried quickly enough while I had them out checking compression. I have an a2w cooler and I checked that I didn't have a coolant leak into the intake. No free liquid inside the pipe and no marks downstream indicating any coolant. The low end is definitely the problem. Car runs like a beast in boost, anything with rpms and everything is great until i have to slow, then the rev hunting. It'll actually run right after I really hammer the car for a little while. Just need to get it running to get it back to him.
 

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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
That’s if you don’t find anything wrong with timing
It's raining here so I'm waiting on the valve cover pull. Interesting in it wanting to crank over again. I'm thinking fuel...
Additionally, I thought the ECU controlled exactly what the injectors did. You can't make too small do more (not entirely true, that's how the bolt on turbo was designed), but you can tune the larger ones down. I thought that was the deal....
 
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