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2001 MR2 SPYDER.... battery is draining somehow....

1281 Views 18 Replies 10 Participants Last post by  FormInFunction
my 2001 mr2 spyder.battery is draining after 3-4 days of not being started...... i have always bought die hard batteries from sears. i have alway had good luck with them, battery is about 16 months old, i have started the car maybe 15-20 times since the die hard was installed, , maybe 500 miles total if that...... .keep spyder in the garage, start it every 3-4 days just to keep the momemtum..... last week, after 3 days without starting, DEAD BATTERY..... I HAVE a heavy duty battery charger, i am charging the battery now....lets see what happens.. the only add on i have was to replace the screw in antenna with a shorter one...... after the charger is done, i hope to start the car, go for a short run, then disconnect the ground, wait 3-4 days and try to start it.....after that, i guess an electrical shop or my mechanic.....


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You have a parasitic draw. You can youtube how to chase one down. You'll want a multimeter....& patience.
i installed a cutoff switch, they're cheap. i can't imagine chasing that problem down.
Could be that your battery is just dead, if you are not driving regularly. A specific gravity test will tell you the truth.

What do you do when you start the car? You would want to take it out for a joyride to at least get it fully warmed up. Otherwise, it would be better to just keep the battery on the charger.

Also possible that your alternator is weak, but is not giving you a fail indication. Generally, if you find your battery dead for no direct reason, you will not succeed in recharging it. Any unused capacity is lost over a span of months.
Thanks for the input, will start attempting the ideas you have provided... thank you !
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Thanks for the input, will start attempting the ideas you have provided... thank you !
Had the same problem. Ended up being a brake light sticking.... and dome light was bad. I also had a bad battery and some bad grounds. In turn I brought a 15v lithium battery and a charger. yes you have a parasitic draw or a bad battery. Start out by pulling fuses one at a time until you find the culprit and doing a ground test(multimeter). You can do it. Remember its always something simple. Disconnect cables when she's not in use until you find the parasite.
Get your battery load tested or just replace it. Clean and check the cables on both ends. It's real easy to kill or overcook a battery with a heavy duty charger. Used correct high amp chargers can sometimes help decalicfy the plates but you have got to understand what you're doing. Not really worth the time or effort for one $80.00 lead-acid or AGM ( still really lead-acid) battery. Disconnect Mr. new battery's negative post between rides as it takes less time than checking the fluids. And never charge your new AGM battery with your heavy duty charger as you'll cook it. Get a $35.00 6 amp Schumacher taper charger. You problems will gone. You will be enlightened.
Keys left in the ignition will put the computer on standby and drain the battery ! Try removing the keys when car is sitting for any length of time , simple solution to an annoying problem !
Is it possible that jumper cables or cables from a battery charger have been connected to the battery "backwards"? (i.e. positive lead to negative post). When this occurs, even if the ignition was never "on" during the event, it is entirely possible to fry the diodes in the alternator. This can happen to any make or model car. Diodes allow current to flow in a designated direction. when they fail, current flows in either direction causing a parasitic drain. A cheap test would be to leave the battery connected, disconnect the power lead at the alternator for the time period it usually takes to kill the battery (perhaps a week).Reconnect the power lead to the alternator. If it starts, there's the culprit. You can disassemble the alternator and replace the diodes but less hassle to replace the entire alternator (IMHO).
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Is it possible that jumper cables or cables from a battery charger have been connected to the battery "backwards"? (i.e. positive lead to negative post). When this occurs, even if the ignition was never "on" during the event, it is entirely possible to fry the diodes in the alternator...
That is true. However, if you didn't blow the main fuse right quick, then there would likely be massive electrical damage. The alternator diodes would be the least of your worries. If the car is starting, then I doubt that this is what happened.
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That is true. However, if you didn't blow the main fuse right quick, then there would likely be massive electrical damage. The alternator diodes would be the least of your worries. If the car is starting, then I doubt that this is what happened.
Oh contraire my friend. The cables backwards sends current to the alternator. There is no "switch" between the battery and the alternator. I'm 70 and I ve seen this issue manifest itself in many cars over the years. The owner never realizes the issue. Car starts, runs fine, everything seems to work...... Until they park the car for an extended time..... Then it won't start so they replace the battery.... next the starter...... then they buy a "For Sale" sIgn. Well my friend, suit yourself. I didn't offer the post to be argumentative, just to help. If you don't want to run the simple test I explained in my reply post. I okay with that. Good luck and please have a great Summer!
... The cables backwards sends current to the alternator...
That is right. The alternator diodes are forward biased by the reverse polarity, and they draw what is essentially the full current capacity of the battery that was connected. If they can hold up until the main fuse blows, then one can get off relatively easily with only the chance of alternator damage.

There are many ways for alternators to fail. There is no argument about that. I have also had many alternators fail, and I have never reversed my jumper cables.
Lets see "alternators" came about in the early 1960s before that it was generator. In Volks Wagon speak its still generators by the way. At lease in the factory service books for a 1995 eurovan.
I degress, what I like to say us in those 60 years the only alternators I replaced on my cars were due to failed bearings. Replaced many on other folks car with fried electrics.
I must live right: I do perverse things like keep clean tight cables. Never, never, let my battery draw down past 40%. 60 % is bad enough. And think of an alternator as a battery maintainer not charger. Heavy duty alternators are a good idea where there's a heavy draw like winches, plows, and, by the way what the hell, do those 10 billion watt sound system monsters draw?.
Honest not a single alternator fried in 60 years. Be nice to your car and go clean your battery cables right now. If you forget to turn off you lights (ect) charge it with a charger not the cars alternator.
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Bearings do fail, and the only time that I remembering that happening is 45 years ago on my Fiat x19. The common failures are regulators and brushes. The brushes are an expendable with a pretty decent lifetime. The regulators are a crapshoot, like all other electronics. If you have never had one fail, then I salute your good fortune. Electronics failures are usually just water or oxygen creeping in along the lead seals, or an electrolytic capacitor. Diodes can fail for no reason, but abuse makes it much more likely. I think that I see the point about reversed jumps. Many owners don't even know that they have fusible links in their battery cables. You hear all the time, "I didn't have any electric at all, and it turned out that this crummy piece of wire in the battery harness burned out. I spliced it up, and made good and sure that it won't happen again!"

I was startled to see the word "generator" in the BGB. I think that what has happened is that the commutated generator has been officially declared extinct, and thus there is no longer a need to distinguish between the old and the new. The alternator was not possible until silicon diodes were perfected, but once they existed, they were so clearly superior that this evolutionary outcome was inevitable.
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WELL, as it turned out, IT was not a parasitic draw..... it was a DEFECTIVE DIE HARD battery about a year old that i got from sears before they shut down........ i called the battery mfger and they told me to call NAPA, since they have taken over the selling of the DIE HARD battery line.....BOTTOM LINE, they both gave me the # 1 sign....... i went to autozone....DIE HARD BATTERIES for years have been my quality, reliable batteries..... apparently, whoever makes them sucks, no more die hards for me...
I stopped using Die Hard batteries 40 years ago. No regrets. I used Interstate batteries for a long time until they went South. I currently use Bosch batteries. And the spider I use a lithium battery.
I guess that we now know why they didn't call it the "STAY HARD." :ROFLMAO: :D:ROFLMAO::D
I use interstate batteries....Project farm approved lol. I've never had a problem with them, in less than 7 yrs of installation life at least.
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