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Discussion Starter #21
Techstream remembers my car whenever it’s connected. Not sure about your other questions.
Have you replaced the smt fluid and filled to the correct level? I’m suspicious of the hydraulic pressure being generated. Cycle times (run times) can help determine if that’s an issue. Also, see if excessive shifting in short time periods, brings on the gear light. Then see if the gear light goes away when reducing shifting maneuvers or stop shifting all together to allow the pump to build pressure again.
The transmission 'gear' light is truly intermittent. I can start the car with the light being out then drive it hard with aggressive shifting and the light may not come on until later or it might come on during the aggressive driving. There seems to be no rhyme or reason. The HPU was replaced by a local transmission shop just before I bought the car after about 3 months the light started coming back on and the previous owner was tired of putting money in it and sold it to me. I am just not sure why my Techstream is not able to diagnose the issue. One other question I have is can you go to 'Help' > 'DLC3 cable check' and get 'all green' on your OBD2 pins?
 

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Maybe you can try to get the red gear light to come on by shifting between 1st, 2nd and reverse (any combination) while not moving to narrow down the possibilities. The run times can help determine pump issues.
So basically the only issue that your having now is the gear light? The bad battery solved the other problems?
 

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Discussion Starter #23
Maybe you can try to get the red gear light to come on by shifting between 1st, 2nd and reverse (any combination) while not moving to narrow down the possibilities. The run times can help determine pump issues.
So basically the only issue that your having now is the gear light? The bad battery solved the other problems?
The new battery just seems to have got the car running again. Before disconnecting the low battery, the car was not registering being in Neutral and would not start. Time will tell if when I am driving that the car starts flashing Neutral when I am in gear. Still very interested to see if you can go to 'Help' > 'DLC3 cable check' and get 'all green' on your OBD2 pins?
 

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Discussion Starter #26
Just to close the loop on this thread, I installed the Techstream software on a new computer and was able to finally diagnose the issue. Techstream is throwing the infamous P1880 code and now I am following the solution found on this thread: P1880 and loss of pressure. Will try the Porsche part number 99731416600 as that is what fixed that SMT.
 

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When you replace the accumulator, can you report the time it takes the pump to charge the system, first thing upon opening the driver’s door? In the 20’s is ideal.
I would like to add this to my data.
 

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Discussion Starter #29
When you replace the accumulator, can you report the time it takes the pump to charge the system, first thing upon opening the driver’s door? In the 20’s is ideal.
I would like to add this to my data.
It will be a couple weeks before I report back but, I will add the seconds before and after I replace the accumulator.
 

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Discussion Starter #30
When you replace the accumulator, can you report the time it takes the pump to charge the system, first thing upon opening the driver’s door? In the 20’s is ideal.
I would like to add this to my data.
In two separate tests, the pump ran for 29 seconds and the separate test it was 30 seconds. Both timings were with a cold engine. I just received the new accumulator and will likely replace it this weekend. Need to review some threads on the actual replacement process.
 

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Hmmm, I wish you had posted your cycle time before. I would say that is not likely indicative of a bad accumulator unless it’s charging for 10 seconds every 10 seconds after the initial prime. But for confirming the porsche unit, see what the initial charge time is.
 

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Discussion Starter #32
Hmmm, I wish you had posted your cycle time before. I would say that is not likely indicative of a bad accumulator unless it’s charging for 10 seconds every 10 seconds after the initial prime. But for confirming the porsche unit, see what the initial charge time is.
You think it could just be low fluid levels? I have already planned to remove the airbox and check the fluid level and for leaks around the current accumulator before installing. Also have the very expensive Toyota SMT transmission fluid on hand as well and will decide whether to remove the old fluid before adding if the level is very low.
 

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Changing the fluid and filling to the proper level is the first thing I would have done. I wouldn’t use the expensive stuff until you’ve established what the problem is otherwise it might be wasted.
Also, since the battery was bad, make sure the alternator is charging the new battery and you’re not running it down when testing. The “run time” you reported is slightly long and may be due to a slightly low battery.
 

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Discussion Starter #34
After removing the air filter box and inspecting the HPU for leaks, everything was amazingly clean - even when keeping in mind the HPU was replaced by the previous owner at a local transmission shop last Spring. The fluid was cloudy and and very low. After removing the old fluid with a hand pump and letting it sit is a clear water bottle, you could see there was a small about of water at the surface. Using this thread as a guide, SMT/HPU Fluid check and fill., I replaced the fluid. Since I saw no signs of leaks, my assumption is that the transmission shop did not know the appropriate way to fill the unit. The cold pump charge time is now 24 seconds. With the low fluid the charge time was 30 seconds. The best news is that the transmission light is off and I do not have any more flashing Neutral light while the SMT is in gear. The car is running great. Since everything looked so clean, I decided not to change the Porche accumulator this time.
 

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Awesome!
Btw, you might want to drain the reservoir more than once initially to get the old fluid out from the GSA and hoses, especially since it was over saturated with water.
 
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