[zorrosmith33]

Hello fellow Spyder owners:

I have a 2003 MR2 Spyder with 82,000 miles. I bought it new in 2003 from a dealership. For the last six months, my Spyder has died on me three times. It seems it happens when I make a fast decision, as though I have "popped the clutch." However, it is the sequential tranmission (straight shift without a clutch pedal). The red circle shows up on the dash and sometimes it will not go back to neutral so I can start it. I have had to push it off the road to allow it to rest or cool off.

Three Toyota dealers have all told me they cannot find the problem after having charged me a $75 diagnostic. One dealer claims I should replace the paddles and other electronic stuff for $3,400. I am not sure that's the answer.

Sorry I took so long to explain the problem but I am the only Spyder owner in our county in TN. Have any of you had this problem and what is the way to correct it, short of selling it or paying $3,400?

Thanks for your help, zorrosmith33

 

[cyclehead]

Did anyone check the SMT reservoir fluid level?

 

[Cap Weir]

If the SMT system was pissed about a Problem, it will ignore the Engine ECU for a time.. the Engine ECU will get pissed about being ignored, and then turn the engine off..

If the SMT TCU ( trans Computer ) finally gives up on trying to do what ever it was doing, and start talking to the engine computer, then the car will start..

Some Evidence on MR2.com has been posted about irratic behavyor being remidied by removing the wires that go to the Sterring Wheel Shift Buttons.. as these can become broken, and give conflicting siginals to the TCU for shifting.. I can't agree with the disconecting of the buttons, as just NOT using them would do the same thing, Unless the wires were broken and touching something else..

The 'Hand Shifter' has a complicated sequence of switches that must be made and broken with every shift motion.. and a Code will be tossed if the Sequence is not exactally right.. the sterring wheel buttons do not have the 'Check Sequence' for there opperation, so no code will be tossed for a problem with them..

1) Have the Codes been retrieved and recorded for use in troubleshooting.. can you post them..

2) First thing in the Morning, when you open the drivers door, time how long the HPU runs before it gets to pressure and shuts off.. tell us how long that is.. 15 Sec is Bitchen.. 20 - 25 is normal.. 30 is Poor.. 45 is Screwed up..

3) any 'Writen Reports' from any dealers on what was found?..


4) IT's NEVER the COMPUTER!..

Cap

 

[cyclehead]

I recall one SMT had his steering wheel button stuck in the "shift" position, causing problems.

 

[boatgirl]

same problem

Hello fellow Spyder owners:

I have a 2003 MR2 Spyder with 82,000 miles. I bought it new in 2003 from a dealership. For the last six months, my Spyder has died on me three times. It seems it happens when I make a fast decision, as though I have "popped the clutch." However, it is the sequential tranmission (straight shift without a clutch pedal). The red circle shows up on the dash and sometimes it will not go back to neutral so I can start it. I have had to push it off the road to allow it to rest or cool off.

Three Toyota dealers have all told me they cannot find the problem after having charged me a $75 diagnostic. One dealer claims I should replace the paddles and other electronic stuff for $3,400. I am not sure that's the answer.

Sorry I took so long to explain the problem but I am the only Spyder owner in our county in TN. Have any of you had this problem and what is the way to correct it, short of selling it or paying $3,400?

Thanks for your help, zorrosmith33

this happened to me too. it's "died" on me three times.
a year and a half ago, my mr2 had water damage that fried the transmission computer so I had it replaced. it ran fine until about 5 months ago. it has now died on me three times.

• the first time the toyota dealership told me I needed a new transmission computer. I said fine and they replaced it. they told me to come get it. then.. I realized it was still under warrantly from the replacement. they quickly back peddled and told me it wasnt the computer after all and they couldnt reproduce the problem.

• about 800 miles later it happened again. i took it back and the new mechanic said the transmission computer was fried and I needed a new one. I told them about the last visit and they back peddled again and said it wasnt the computer (again). they said some of the wiring had been corroded due to the water damage and they had to clean it out. $400 in labor later they said it was fine. they said if it happens again, I will need the entire wire harness replaced (approx $3000-$4000)

• 100 miles later it happened again. I'm waiting on the response...

symptoms:
I drive less than 100 miles a month (usually). I work from home so i usually do short trips (grocery, mail, etc..) each time this happened was on the rare occurance I drove more than 20 miles in one trip. It "feels" like the gears are slipping, then it stalls. it still start again, just stalls when I try to back up or go foreward.

did you ever solve your problem?

~Frustrated....

 

[boatgirl]

same problem

Hello fellow Spyder owners:

I have a 2003 MR2 Spyder with 82,000 miles. I bought it new in 2003 from a dealership. For the last six months, my Spyder has died on me three times. It seems it happens when I make a fast decision, as though I have "popped the clutch." However, it is the sequential tranmission (straight shift without a clutch pedal). The red circle shows up on the dash and sometimes it will not go back to neutral so I can start it. I have had to push it off the road to allow it to rest or cool off.

Three Toyota dealers have all told me they cannot find the problem after having charged me a $75 diagnostic. One dealer claims I should replace the paddles and other electronic stuff for $3,400. I am not sure that's the answer.

Sorry I took so long to explain the problem but I am the only Spyder owner in our county in TN. Have any of you had this problem and what is the way to correct it, short of selling it or paying $3,400?

Thanks for your help, zorrosmith33

this happened to me too. it's "died" on me three times.
a year and a half ago, my mr2 had water damage that fried the transmission computer so I had it replaced. it ran fine until about 5 months ago. it has now died on me three times.

• the first time the toyota dealership told me I needed a new transmission computer. I said fine and they replaced it. they told me to come get it. then.. I realized it was still under warrantly from the replacement. they quickly back peddled and told me it wasnt the computer after all and they couldnt reproduce the problem.

• about 800 miles later it happened again. i took it back and the new mechanic said the transmission computer was fried and I needed a new one. I told them about the last visit and they back peddled again and said it wasnt the computer (again). they said some of the wiring had been corroded due to the water damage and they had to clean it out. $400 in labor later they said it was fine. they said if it happens again, I will need the entire wire harness replaced (approx $3000-$4000)

• 100 miles later it happened again. I'm waiting on the response...

symptoms:
I drive less than 100 miles a month (usually). I work from home so i usually do short trips (grocery, mail, etc..) each time this happened was on the rare occurance I drove more than 20 miles in one trip. It "feels" like the gears are slipping, then it stalls. it still start again, just stalls when I try to back up or go foreward.

did you ever solve your problem?

oh, I have a 2003 mr2. bought brand new from the dealership with 7 miles on it. it has 62,000 miles on it now.

~Frustrated....

 

[Cap Weir]

Need more information..

Does the 'Gear Lite' come on?.. and what is the 'Code' that is read from the Engine and Tranny computer..

Every time a gear lite comes on, a Code is Stored.. I need that code for troubleshooting..

Cap

 

[MikeV]

When troubleshooting electrical problems, my method used to always be "Work from the outside-in"

These days it's "First check for a bad ground, then check for spilled coffee damage, then work from the outside-in."

 

[boatgirl]

Need more information..

Does the 'Gear Lite' come on?.. and what is the 'Code' that is read from the Engine and Tranny computer..

Every time a gear lite comes on, a Code is Stored.. I need that code for troubleshooting..

Cap

last time I saw it was just the check engine light.

here are the codes:
p0919
p0860
p1646

any help is greatly appreciated!

 

[Cap Weir]

I do not have an 860 listed..

850 is Park neutral switch..
919 is the 'Robot' cant find the gear..
1646 is the engine computer is pissed that the 'Robot' that does your shifting, stopped talking.. so it turned the engine off..

The SMT is unable ( sometimes ) to find or place the Gear Selector in the right place..

I think you need to have a look at the "SMT Fluid" tank that is located under the Air Cleaner Box in the back by the engine..

The "SMT System" is a "Electro/Hydraulic Robot" that is wrapped around a Standard Manual transmission.. Much like the 'Alien', in the Movie of the same name, would wrap around and control Humans.. this one is built to shift your transmission and operate the Clutch.. and it requires an 'Pressurized Oil System' to provide the power.. and in this case, the 'Oil of Choice' is DOT4 Brake Fluid..

If the Oil System is low of fluid, air bubbles will interfere with the precise placement of the 'Arms' of the robot system.. and things will jerk or grind..

You ( Or Someone ) can check the Fluid Level in the Reservoir Tank .. the tank is somewhat clear. and the level can be seen.. as long as the level is not below the LOW mark your good..

If it's lower than that, then add DOT4 Brake Fluid.. IF the Level is normal.. we have an 'Issue'.. because the SMT system is still misbehaving, and we need a cause..

If the level is good, I'd Suggest changing the fluid.. SOMETIMES the 'Dark Junk' in the fluid ( if you have any ) can cause 'Issues' with the SMT valves and actuators..

http://spyderchat.com/forums/showthread.php?57409-Changing-SMT-fluid

Suck as much out of the reservoir as you can with a turkey baster, and replace with NEW DOT4.. drive for a few days.. then do it again.. Do it untill the color stays clear..

This is about the Best "low Tech" methiod to help out a troublesome SMT..

If you problem persists.. then you will have to see if "Techstream Software Relearn" will straighten it up..

Cap

 

[boatgirl]

I do not have an 860 listed..

850 is Park neutral switch..
919 is the 'Robot' cant find the gear..
1646 is the engine computer is pissed that the 'Robot' that does your shifting, stopped talking.. so it turned the engine off..

The SMT is unable ( sometimes ) to find or place the Gear Selector in the right place..

I think you need to have a look at the "SMT Fluid" tank that is located under the Air Cleaner Box in the back by the engine..

The "SMT System" is a "Electro/Hydraulic Robot" that is wrapped around a Standard Manual transmission.. Much like the 'Alien', in the Movie of the same name, would wrap around and control Humans.. this one is built to shift your transmission and operate the Clutch.. and it requires an 'Pressurized Oil System' to provide the power.. and in this case, the 'Oil of Choice' is DOT4 Brake Fluid..

If the Oil System is low of fluid, air bubbles will interfere with the precise placement of the 'Arms' of the robot system.. and things will jerk or grind..

You ( Or Someone ) can check the Fluid Level in the Reservoir Tank .. the tank is somewhat clear. and the level can be seen.. as long as the level is not below the LOW mark your good..

If it's lower than that, then add DOT4 Brake Fluid.. IF the Level is normal.. we have an 'Issue'.. because the SMT system is still misbehaving, and we need a cause..

If the level is good, I'd Suggest changing the fluid.. SOMETIMES the 'Dark Junk' in the fluid ( if you have any ) can cause 'Issues' with the SMT valves and actuators..

http://spyderchat.com/forums/showthread.php?57409-Changing-SMT-fluid

Suck as much out of the reservoir as you can with a turkey baster, and replace with NEW DOT4.. drive for a few days.. then do it again.. Do it untill the color stays clear..

This is about the Best "low Tech" methiod to help out a troublesome SMT..

If you problem persists.. then you will have to see if "Techstream Software Relearn" will straighten it up..

Cap

from what Im told the p0860 is a Gear Shift Module Communication Circuit error

I was told by another MR2 expert that:
"it sounds like they installed the computer and just gave it back you, they were supposed to install the computer, flush the hydraulics, then run it on the interstate for about a half hour to reteach the computer or it will continue to stall when driving extensive trips" he also told me that they need to check the hydraulic fluid to make sure it's clear. and to check the drain hose to make sure it isnt clogged.

right now the dealership is trying to sell me a new wiring harness. ($3000)

what are your thoughts about what the other tech gave me?
(thanks in advance)

 

[boatgirl]

I do not have an 860 listed..

850 is Park neutral switch..
919 is the 'Robot' cant find the gear..
1646 is the engine computer is pissed that the 'Robot' that does your shifting, stopped talking.. so it turned the engine off..

The SMT is unable ( sometimes ) to find or place the Gear Selector in the right place..

I think you need to have a look at the "SMT Fluid" tank that is located under the Air Cleaner Box in the back by the engine..

The "SMT System" is a "Electro/Hydraulic Robot" that is wrapped around a Standard Manual transmission.. Much like the 'Alien', in the Movie of the same name, would wrap around and control Humans.. this one is built to shift your transmission and operate the Clutch.. and it requires an 'Pressurized Oil System' to provide the power.. and in this case, the 'Oil of Choice' is DOT4 Brake Fluid..

If the Oil System is low of fluid, air bubbles will interfere with the precise placement of the 'Arms' of the robot system.. and things will jerk or grind..

You ( Or Someone ) can check the Fluid Level in the Reservoir Tank .. the tank is somewhat clear. and the level can be seen.. as long as the level is not below the LOW mark your good..

If it's lower than that, then add DOT4 Brake Fluid.. IF the Level is normal.. we have an 'Issue'.. because the SMT system is still misbehaving, and we need a cause..

If the level is good, I'd Suggest changing the fluid.. SOMETIMES the 'Dark Junk' in the fluid ( if you have any ) can cause 'Issues' with the SMT valves and actuators..

http://spyderchat.com/forums/showthread.php?57409-Changing-SMT-fluid

Suck as much out of the reservoir as you can with a turkey baster, and replace with NEW DOT4.. drive for a few days.. then do it again.. Do it untill the color stays clear..

This is about the Best "low Tech" methiod to help out a troublesome SMT..

If you problem persists.. then you will have to see if "Techstream Software Relearn" will straighten it up..

Cap

update:
they never flushed the hydraulic fluid after changing the computer, and never took it for a fast drive (reteach the computer)
instead they are trying to sell me a $3000 wiring harness.

stuck in a rut....

 

[boatgirl]

[email protected] Spyder error codes P0911

I do not have an 860 listed..

850 is Park neutral switch..
919 is the 'Robot' cant find the gear..
1646 is the engine computer is pissed that the 'Robot' that does your shifting, stopped talking.. so it turned the engine off..

The SMT is unable ( sometimes ) to find or place the Gear Selector in the right place..

I think you need to have a look at the "SMT Fluid" tank that is located under the Air Cleaner Box in the back by the engine..

The "SMT System" is a "Electro/Hydraulic Robot" that is wrapped around a Standard Manual transmission.. Much like the 'Alien', in the Movie of the same name, would wrap around and control Humans.. this one is built to shift your transmission and operate the Clutch.. and it requires an 'Pressurized Oil System' to provide the power.. and in this case, the 'Oil of Choice' is DOT4 Brake Fluid..

If the Oil System is low of fluid, air bubbles will interfere with the precise placement of the 'Arms' of the robot system.. and things will jerk or grind..

You ( Or Someone ) can check the Fluid Level in the Reservoir Tank .. the tank is somewhat clear. and the level can be seen.. as long as the level is not below the LOW mark your good..

If it's lower than that, then add DOT4 Brake Fluid.. IF the Level is normal.. we have an 'Issue'.. because the SMT system is still misbehaving, and we need a cause..

If the level is good, I'd Suggest changing the fluid.. SOMETIMES the 'Dark Junk' in the fluid ( if you have any ) can cause 'Issues' with the SMT valves and actuators..

http://spyderchat.com/forums/showthread.php?57409-Changing-SMT-fluid

Suck as much out of the reservoir as you can with a turkey baster, and replace with NEW DOT4.. drive for a few days.. then do it again.. Do it untill the color stays clear..

This is about the Best "low Tech" methiod to help out a troublesome SMT..

If you problem persists.. then you will have to see if "Techstream Software Relearn" will straighten it up..

Cap

update:

I am showing error codes:
(something to do with the shifter not communicating)
p0911

(engine safety cut off)
p0860
P1646

any clues?

 

[plebian]

How exactly was the water damage done? Did you swamp the car? Leave the top off in the rain?

However the water came in is what you're going to start with, as residual moisture in any electronic system is going to cause havoc. If it was the top off, I would assume that all you interior switches can have a potential to cause problems, especially at the connections. A full wire harness will solve the problem, and is the most thorough way to eliminate any possible future problems, because those connections will be done and cleaned. The cost isn't in the harness itself, it's in the time consumption of having to undo and make all those connections, which is what you really need if your car was flooded. If you know a gearhead willing to clean all your electrical connections, you may come off cheaper, but you really need to get all those connections clean, this is just the beginning with a water damaged car, some problems won't show until a year or two down the road when corrosion starts to set in.

Sorry to be the bearer of bad news...

 

[suoiruc]

update:I am showing error codessomething to do with the shifter not communicating)p0911(engine safety cut off)p0860P1646any clues?

Listen, don't give those crooks anymore money! Try the simplest cheapest things first. I've had two different cars with basically the same codes and am dealing with one right now. The first thing is to change the HPU fluid and make sure it's up to level. Listen to Cap on this one. And I have been reading, you might need a relearn. Secondly, I had a car with the same problem ( I have 3 now ) where replacing the Shift Lever Position Sensor Switch fixed it. There are three tiny screws to remove the switch, anyone can do it, and it's located in the console. I wouldn't replace the harness... just clean the connectors with contact cleaner and then maybe some Dielectric grease. I've been wanting to start a thread about a theory revolving around these connectors especially the one outside into the HPU but I wanted to be more certain before spouting off incorrect information. Hope this works. Please let me know so we can all figure this thing out.

 

[boatgirl]

I think it is fixed!

as a recap:
the gears felt like they were 'slipping' when I drove for extended drive times. (more than 20 miles) then the car would shut off. it would start back up after it cooled down, but the check engine light would stay on.

Fort Myers Toyota had my car almost 3 months. I requested he check the smt fluid and he swore it was fine. they said they did the relearn, but problem was still happening. they literally took my car apart and tested everything, but since the car only acted up when it was driven for extended drive times, they couldnt replicate the problem. they kept getting weird error codes throughout.

*they replaced one of the sensors and gave the car back to me. so far it is working, but I havent gone on an extended drive yet. I'll keep you posted if it happens again.

Toyota's service department are complete crooks. they will try to sell you one part after another until they get the right one, all at the owners expense. If it wasnt for an MR2 specialist in California and this board, they would have screwed me out of thousands of dollars. (thanks guys!!) If you need advice on your MR2, call Jeevie in California. (909) 236-5573. etlgarage.com is his website. Very helpful guy.

 

[suoiruc]

as a recap:
the gears felt like they were 'slipping' when I drove for extended drive times. (more than 20 miles) then the car would shut off. it would start back up after it cooled down, but the check engine light would stay on.

Fort Myers Toyota had my car almost 3 months. I requested he check the smt fluid and he swore it was fine. they said they did the relearn, but problem was still happening. they literally took my car apart and tested everything, but since the car only acted up when it was driven for extended drive times, they couldnt replicate the problem. they kept getting weird error codes throughout.

*they replaced one of the sensors and gave the car back to me. so far it is working, but I havent gone on an extended drive yet. I'll keep you posted if it happens again.

Toyota's service department are complete crooks. they will try to sell you one part after another until they get the right one, all at the owners expense. If it wasnt for an MR2 specialist in California and this board, they would have screwed me out of thousands of dollars. (thanks guys!!) If you need advice on your MR2, call Jeevie in California. (909) 236-5573. etlgarage.com is his website. Very helpful guy.

You said they replaced sensor. Was it the"Shift Lever Position Sensor Switch"? or a GSA sensor?

 

[boatgirl]

You said they replaced sensor. Was it the"Shift Lever Position Sensor Switch"? or a GSA sensor?

they said there was 3 sensors and they are the same. they moved them around to test them until they found the bad one. I'm assuming that is the shift lever sensor. does that make sense to you?

 

[cyclehead]

...clean the connectors with contact cleaner and then maybe some Dielectric grease. I've been wanting to start a thread about a theory revolving around these connectors especially the one outside into the HPU ...

I'm sure everyone is tired of me suggesting this stuff...but I'm convinced it works well for electrical connectors, switches, relays, PC boards, etc.

Lear Chemicals "Corrosion Block"

 

[suoiruc]

they said there was 3 sensors and they are the same. they moved them around to test them until they found the bad one. I'm assuming that is the shift lever sensor. does that make sense to you?

Thanks for getting back! It was probably a GSA sensor as there are 3 of them.