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Discussion Starter #1
I bought this car with 100,00 miles on it. Since I’ve had it I’ve had to put oil in it every time I get gas. I checked compression back then and all 4 cylinders were good. Well now I’m at 120,000 and the oil was full after driving about 150 miles the oil light comes on. I check the oil nothing not even registering on the dip stick. I filled it back up with oil drove another 60 miles checked the oil and it’s all gone not even registering again. There are no engine noises the car runs fine and I never noticed any smoke. So where is my oil going? I would think if it was burning that much in 60 miles there would be a ton of smoke. I checked the coolant didn’t see any oil there. So what is happening here?
 

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Doesn't seem probable that its burning that much oil. Are the plugs fouled bad? Maybe a serious leak when running, is it oiled badly under the diaper?
 

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It could be a crank seal. Sometimes they only throw while you are driving, so there is no evidence where you park.
 

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Remove the diaper, clean the engine well and fill it up, then start the engine and watch for leaks. I'd also check the plugs too.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
There was some oil underneath but not much and that may have been from when the valve cover was leaking. 2 of the plugs where pretty fouled and 2 where white. I put oil in it and stood behind it while I had someone rev up the engine. There’s no smoke but it’s shooting oil out the exhaust.
 

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There was some oil underneath but not much and that may have been from when the valve cover was leaking. 2 of the plugs where pretty fouled and 2 where white. I put oil in it and stood behind it while I had someone rev up the engine. There’s no smoke but it’s shooting oil out the exhaust.
I would expect the two cylinders with fouled plugs have frozen rings. Spitting oil out the exhaust is severe.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
I just checked compression it’s 211,201,207,202. There is no loss of power and no engine noise. Wouldn’t I have low compression if the rings were bad?
 

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Maybe an exhaust valve stem seal has disintegrated, and the head is draining directly into the exhaust.
 

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Possible crankcase vent valve failure?
PCV ?
To check, pull the hose off of the PCV, and see if oil comes out.
Or, run a separate line off the PCV instead and see if oil is flowing through it.
I would suspect it would be worse at higher RPM.
 

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I just checked compression it’s 211,201,207,202. There is no loss of power and no engine noise. Wouldn’t I have low compression if the rings were bad?
Your compression values are high, I expect because the engine is an oil pump. There are two compression rings and one oil control ring. You can have good compression with stuck oil control rings. Your engine might have piston problems and valve problems. With this much oil passing through the engine it is also creating an artificial ring seal more than likely upping the values, or maybe your gauge reads a bit high (probably not). With knowledge, effort, time and proper tools you could change the in & ex valve seals without head removal, just accessing the cams & followers to get to the seals. It would be very beneficial to have previous experience doing this in the car. You probably have more than one contributor making this engine an oil pump.
 

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Possible crankcase vent valve failure?
PCV ?
To check, pull the hose off of the PCV, and see if oil comes out.
Or, run a separate line off the PCV instead and see if oil is flowing through it.
I would suspect it would be worse at higher RPM.
PCV problems would not explain only 2 plugs being oil-fouled. Still it is worth checking the PCv valve and hoses.
 

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PCV problems would not explain only 2 plugs being oil-fouled. Still it is worth checking the PCv valve and hoses.
maybe, depends on if the 2 cylinders with the fouled plugs are the ones closest to the PCV hose.

It likely is the rings, but was looking for things to check/troubleshoot before cracking the head and yanking a piston.
I would probably see about pulling the intake, as the valves being dry/wet would delineate whether the oil is coming up through the ring pack, or being introduced through the induction.
 

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Discussion Starter #16
Thanks for the tips. I’ll check the pvc valve and then replace the valve seals and see if that fixes it. Since those are the easiest things to try first. If That doesn’t work I’ll put in new rings I would think the bore should be fine since the compression is good. So hopefully I would get away with just new rings.
 

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Thanks for the tips. I’ll check the pvc valve and then replace the valve seals and see if that fixes it. Since those are the easiest things to try first. If That doesn’t work I’ll put in new rings I would think the bore should be fine since the compression is good. So hopefully I would get away with just new rings.
You should never assume anything, IMHO you don't have valid compression values and that is only part of the problem. Only inspection and measurement can tell you what you have. You might get away with some money spent, time and a bit less of an oil burner/pump. I would love to see a picture of the rings in the piston though. I had one 1ZZ apart where the oil control rings where seized in the piston lands by carbon buildup. I never ran that engine so I don't know its oil consumption.
 

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maybe, depends on if the 2 cylinders with the fouled plugs are the ones closest to the PCV hose.

It likely is the rings, but was looking for things to check/troubleshoot before cracking the head and yanking a piston.
I would probably see about pulling the intake, as the valves being dry/wet would delineate whether the oil is coming up through the ring pack, or being introduced through the induction.
The PCV is designed to distribute gasses pretty evenly to all cylinders, so I still don't think it is explained by the PCV. Replacing the valve stem seals is a lot of work and a very unlikely source of this problem. I haven't heard that Toyota valve stem seals are known to self-destruct even in 19 year old engines.
The next thing I would do for this engine is to buy or borrow a borescope and inspect the cylinder bores and piston tops visually. You can get a USB borescope really cheap. You are looking for damage to the cylinder bores and the piston top periphery.

Dave
 

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Personally I would get another engine (a good one) then have some fun taking this one apart for inspection. I am curious how much oil is in the cat and muffler and compression gauge tool. I expect the cat is shot swimming in oil. I can't see how this engine runs good but maybe my scale is different.

I haven't noticed anything about 1ZZ valve stem seals going bad, then again I haven't looked. I have noticed many suggestions as a source of problems. I know the oil control rings can seize in the piston land, seen it. I know clean oil control rings can allow oil to pass and burn, seen it.

A qt of oil every fill up maybe 300 miles? That in it self is reason for another engine let alone the current usage. I wasn't real happy putting a qt in between oil changes.
 

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Discussion Starter #20
Yes I was putting a quart about every 300 miles. And I had to change the downstream o2 sensor 3 times in the 20,000 miles I’ve driven it. By running good I mean it idles smooth, revs smooth, there’s no hesitation, I don’t feel any misfiring or anything. I didn’t notice any smoke, or loss of power. The only reason I knew something was wrong was because the oil light came on. It’s been sitting a week now and hasn’t lost any oil so it’s definitely only losing oil while driving. I guess I got ripped off on this car. I also have an 85 mr2 with 240,000 miles on it still running strong, I guess those were just built better.
 
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