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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hi there I'm new to the forum.

Recently inherited a 2003 MR2 spyder from the girlfriends uncle who passed away. The car was a non runner for a few years in a storage unit. From reading the various threads and posts I've deduced that it is a problem between the computer box and the fuel pump as it does not seem to activate(The pump works 100% on its own btw). All the relays work and none of the fuses have popped. The car does have some kind of performance chip wired in and I hope that isn't the problem. The rest of the electricals seem to be okay and the car does turn over. The previous mechanic he sent the car to a few years ago appeared to have replaced the computer box which did not fix the issue. I've checked the crank sensor and it seems to be receiving the right amount of voltage when I turn the key so I don't think its that.

Just wondering if anyone might have some insight into what could be stopping the pump from activating

Thanks.
 

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First question is it a 5spd. manual ? The next thing I'd do is remove the chip and repair the wiring .
There's a little red light in the middle hvac control that should be flashing ..... and should stop when you put the key in the ignition , does this happen . It's almost never the computer box.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
First question is it a 5spd. manual ? The next thing I'd do is remove the chip and repair the wiring .
There's a little red light in the middle hvac control that should be flashing ..... and should stop when you put the key in the ignition , does this happen . It's almost never the computer box.
Yes sorry it is a 5 speed manual, 1ZZ-FE engine I believe. Seems pretty complicated but ill have a go. Know where I can find a wiring manual for it? And yes the immobilizer light does go off. Just strange that the chip is acting up now as it was running with the chip before it mysteriously died.
 

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It might be the chip or not ... I just know there aren't any chips that provide performance and I'd remove it . I wouldn't think you'd need a wiring manual to remove and reconnect the wires , but you can probably find one online . Have you checked for spark ? I'm not sure of the proper way to test fuel pump but I just spray some starting fluid down the intake where the air filter is .
 

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Pull the Air Cleaner, and squirt some starting fluid into the Intake.. Just seeing if it Coughs.. If it does then it it's a fuel issue..

Cap
 
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So is there more to the story ? You were driving and it just quit running and it wouldn't restart .

EDIT : glad Cap showed up .....he's a better trouble shooter !!
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
It might be the chip or not ... I just know there aren't any chips that provide performance and I'd remove it . I wouldn't think you'd need a wiring manual to remove and reconnect the wires , but you can probably find one online . Have you checked for spark ? I'm not sure of the proper way to test fuel pump but I just spray some starting fluid down the intake where the air filter is .
Haven't checked for a spark yet because I don't have the right spark plug socket for it, seems like it needs a special thinner one. I know the fuel pump is working because when I put 12 volts into it it works. Ill give that a o though.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
So is there more to the story ? You were driving and it just quit running and it wouldn't restart .

EDIT : glad Cap showed up .....he's a better trouble shooter !!
I personally wasn't driving it, my girlfriends uncle was until it packed up. I don't have much info around it as the guy was pretty off the grid and lost his mind a bit towards the end, so instead of the family scrapping it I decided it would be a cool student project car for me.
 

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What is the 'Performance Chip'.. can you provide pictures or descriptors?..

Generally the two chips are..
1) A resistor cut into the Air Temp Sensor of the Air Flow Sensor.. It will not prevent running of the Engine.. But will trigger a MAF Cell related to Air Temp
2) A Set of Chips and Blinking Lites that are hooked behind the OBD2 Port.. Does nothing other then reduce your wallet.... Will not keep the car from running..

If you have anything else, please explain as best as you can..

Cap
 

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Yes sorry it is a 5 speed manual, 1ZZ-FE engine I believe. Seems pretty complicated but ill have a go. Know where I can find a wiring manual for it? And yes the immobilizer light does go off. Just strange that the chip is acting up now as it was running with the chip before it mysteriously died.
You can download all of the manuals. Either search here in spyderchat, or go to the "files" section of the Spyder facebook group.
Even though it won't start you might get useful insight by hooking up an OBD reader to read the codes. I would recommend this.

Dave
 

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The key has to match the ECU. If the computer was changed without reprogramming the key then it wont start.
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
What is the 'Performance Chip'.. can you provide pictures or descriptors?..

Generally the two chips are..
1) A resistor cut into the Air Temp Sensor of the Air Flow Sensor.. It will not prevent running of the Engine.. But will trigger a MAF Cell related to Air Temp
2) A Set of Chips and Blinking Lites that are hooked behind the OBD2 Port.. Does nothing other then reduce your wallet.... Will not keep the car from running..

If you have anything else, please explain as best as you can..

Cap
I'll atatch photos of the ECU and the Chip. This chip is wired directly into the ECU and I think one wire to the fuel pump.
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
You can download all of the manuals. Either search here in spyderchat, or go to the "files" section of the Spyder facebook group.
Even though it won't start you might get useful insight by hooking up an OBD reader to read the codes. I would recommend this.

Dave
I managed to get an ODB connected to the ECU however no codes came up and I think that, and correct me if I'm wrong, the ECU must have at least run to generate the errors? Which makes me thing that this replacement ECU didn't sort the problem out. So I might try and remove the chip and see if that works. I'm going to look around the places you mentioned for any kind of reasource to help me.
 

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I'll atatch photos of the ECU and the Chip. This chip is wired directly into the ECU and I think one wire to the fuel pump.
There's thread's on the Unichip if you search , my money is on this being your problem . Sounds like it has a plug and play wiring harness so it shouldn't be to hard to de-rig . Also some wiring diagrams if you google .


 

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I have a UniChip that is plug and play and it does not look anything like the one posted, plus it can be turned off with an automatic bypass for ECU/OBDII emissions testing. My guess is the chassis connector that doesn't have a plug connection may be for power/ground. I would also trace the wires to make sure all of the connections are solid.

If you are not sure if it is working correctly, I would disconnect it and test without it. Good luck.
 

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I'll atatch photos of the ECU and the Chip. This chip is wired directly into the ECU and I think one wire to the fuel pump.
I already see bare copper wires which had tape wrapped around them in the pictures of the ECU.
If this would be my personal car, I would start with undoing the unichip install and double checking of all the wires and fuses.
 

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Would the red light on the dash still go out if the ECU wasn't programmed properly?
If the Red Lite goes out, like you said, then the ECU has been matched to the Keys..

When you said 'Performance Chip', I was thinking of the Garbage things that don't do much.. A 'Unichip' is a different thing.. It's a 'Piggy Back' ECU modder. It will modify the readings your ECU sends to the Engine.. If programmed AND INSTALLED properly, they work well..

Agree this might be your problem

Cap
 
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