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I was also considering getting my carbon top painted to match the rest of my car.
I would like to see that. I have heard that the top is quite difficult to wrap but I don't think I could bring myself to paint it.
 

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2000 Toyota MR2 Spyder
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Did anyone use the side covers on the inside that go infront or behind the side latches? I could never figure out how to mount them. So I just left them off. Also want to figure out how to ad reinforcement to the inside of the side latches. The screws seem to easily strip or not stay on well.
 

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Did anyone use the side covers on the inside that go infront or behind the side latches? I could never figure out how to mount them. So I just left them off. Also want to figure out how to ad reinforcement to the inside of the side latches. The screws seem to easily strip or not stay on well.
I couldn't figure out those side covers, either. They weren't any more attractive than the interesting look of the inside of the VIS top, so I didn't mind leaving them out.
 

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Did anyone use the side covers on the inside that go infront or behind the side latches? I could never figure out how to mount them. So I just left them off. Also want to figure out how to ad reinforcement to the inside of the side latches. The screws seem to easily strip or not stay on well.
someone filled the area between the CF and fiberglass with silicone and had some success securing the screws. But i didnt need to do that.

i didnt use the side covers. actually, im using those to test out some adhesives and drilling to see if theres better ways to mount the hardtop to the car. Im planning to redo the adhesives between the fiberglass and CF, possibly remove fiberglass to secure the CF directly to the car's body somehow, and/or add some mounts to the rear of the top since those rear hinges dont work.
 

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Im planning to redo the adhesives between the fiberglass and CF, possibly remove fiberglass to secure the CF directly to the car's body somehow, and/or add some mounts to the rear of the top since those rear hinges dont work.
Please post your progress. The carbon top is literally a skin. There is not much surface area where you could bond it directly to the chassis. So, it would be tough to attach it without some sort of structure bonded in between.

I have noticed that some of the adhesive did not stay attached when bolted down the top. I plan to back fill some of their bonding work around the perimeter of the top also. Then I may put some ultra suede on some of the surfaces.
 

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Please post your progress. The carbon top is literally a skin. There is not much surface area where you could bond it directly to the chassis. So, it would be tough to attach it without some sort of structure bonded in between.

I have noticed that some of the adhesive did not stay attached when bolted down the top. I plan to back fill some of their bonding work around the parameter of the top also. Then I may put some ultra suede on some of the surfaces.
yea ill post if i find a good solution. I think the CF is very strong, but the fiber glass is weak, and the bond between CF and fiberglass is even weaker. So i was kind of thinking maybe the fiberglass is unnecessary.

This video at 3:05 gave me some ideas. bonding some sort of metal mount to the inside of the CF top could be the most ideal approach. Could like be a nut or bolt stuck to a metal plate. large surface area of a metal plate helps with adhesion. I was looking for what adhesives might be best for bonding CF + Metal. The original JB weld might be pretty good actually.

 

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With bonding things to FG and CF you have to know what kind of resin was used.

If polyester is used, you bond things to it with polyester resin.

If it is an epoxy layup, You likely have to use Epoxy resin.

The rule back when I worked with the stuff was use like materials but evolution of plastics has marched on.

Now I read that Epoxy can bond on Polyester that is fully cured.

If the top is painted on the inside, The paint has to be removed and sanded to the resin. The resin has to be fully cured. All of the bonding parts have to be super clean and washed, getting rid of release agent and oils.

I'm sure that there are specialty epoxies that can be used to bond unlike plastics.

I bought some West Systems G flex to seal aluminum rivets and attach items to a polyethylene kayak hull.

Here is another 2 part glue that many swear by to glue things in FG EG CF parts...


I have not used Hysol.
 

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I have the VIS CF top with OEM interior/seals and install parts and even proper rear glass. It is a really nice setup. I have had an OEM top as well in the past and the VIS is nicer in addition to being significantly lighter.
 

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2000 Toyota MR2 Spyder
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I have the VIS CF top with OEM interior/seals and install parts and even proper rear glass. It is a really nice setup. I have had an OEM top as well in the past and the VIS is nicer in addition to being significantly lighter.
I'm glad to hear this as the oem top was way more expensive and the carbon was not cheap either but your comment makes me feel better about my purchase.
 

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Like the others, I do not prefer the carbon look but still think it is the better top. I have considered painting it to match the car, but can't be bothered spending the money.
 

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I don't think I've ever heard anyone call a VIS top nicer than OEM before

Did they damage/lose their older original mold if the fitment issues are worse on the newer tops?
 

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Literally the OEM interior liner, seals, etc used on a VIS with actual OEM rear glass installed in lieu of the plastic or (I think) lexan that is included with the VIS. I am unsure if you can still even get the glass.
 

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Literally the OEM interior liner, seals, etc used on a VIS with actual OEM rear glass installed in lieu of the plastic or (I think) lexan that is included with the VIS. I am unsure if you can still even get the glass.
I can. It's tough to find but there are a trickle of glass rear windows coming in from Japan. However, hartop seals.... nope!
 
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