[gil393]

So I pulled the trigger after trying and failing to save the 1zz. I'd like to use this thread to show that even a very timid wrencher can do this swap with the knowledge and wisdom of the group. I will post all of my issues and questions here since there is no reason to pollute the other threads with one off questions. I have a very leisurely timetable (done my next March) so plenty of time to ponder.

Thus far I have an eb60 coming from Canada with 71k. I have Marc's full kit minus the a/c bracket and the body controller. I have an Aisin stock clutch kit and a Fidanza flywheel.

Here are the first issues:

• Scion TC MT engine with 50K for $700 (hit type unknown) or a Scion TC MT engine with 5k miles (rear end hit) for $1400. I know you can find these much cheaper at pick and pulls but I doubt there is one within 75 miles of here. Also with Covid I'd prefer to have the transaction be simple. Cost is not really a problem either way. 5K engine is 2.5 hours away so that is a bit of an issue.
• How do you get a motor home? Will it fit in the back of a ratty Suburban without damaging the engine? Should I rent a small u-haul trailer and just have them put it on that?
• Axles? A search for the empi part numbers yields nothing. Can I get the axles for the corresponding RAV4 models from a random supplier as long as they all come from the same supplier?

Thanks for any and all help and I hope that this helps the next duffer who attempts this.

 

[gil393]

Fun fact, a 2AR engine will fit in the back of a suburban, 36" opening height as long as the pallet is not too high. Second fun fact, the engine assemblies on car-part.com often don't have any accessories, some have no intake or throttle body, most do not have alternator, etc. So there are a lot of incremental bits and pieces. As such, I am going for the cheaper 50k mile engine because I can get a picture, it has the full throttle body and intake plus intact MT wiring harness. I will need to source an alternator, starter, maf, purge valve, 2001 spyder ac compressor and lines, a zillion lousy fasteners for the alternator and starter and bell housing, and... This is clearly not the way to do this. Best bet is to find a complete take out. Unfortunately, in the time of stay at home and located in a dense metropolitan area this is not that possible.

 

[Mschol17]

Get remanufactured axles- I ended up having to find the driver side front axle from a RAV4 at a pick and pull. The Napa new axles I tried didn’t have the correct internal splines.

 

[scotched]

• How do you get a motor home? Will it fit in the back of a ratty Suburban without damaging the engine? Should I rent a small u-haul trailer and just have them put it on that?

Go to a tire shop and ask them for an old tire (from disposal) to transport an engine. They'll give you one for free. Place the engine on the old tire and use ratcheting straps to secure the engine. Make sure to remove any plastic sensors near the bottom of the engine or they'll break.

You'll need 4 people or an engine hoist to get it in and out of the SUV. Getting it in without a hoist sucks even with people.

I did the exact same thing in a Yukon.

 

[gil393]

Thanks, I have a hoist. I also have a hydraulic table that rises to the exact height of the gate. The engine I purchased comes mounted in a wood frame that protects the oil pan from taking the weight of the engine. The plan was to use the hoist as a safety, but slide the engine onto the hydraulic table. Roll the table over to the engine stand, lower it as needed and then mount it. I'm glad to know that it will fit. Thanks!

 

[gil393]

Ordered Cardone 60-5237, 60-5239, 60-5241 from AutoPartsKart.com. $238 delivered. Fingers crossed!

 

[Jeff Stig]

Well good luck with your swap. I hope you have a better time getting everything together than my forgetful self. I just hope I can get back around to it and finish soon.

 

[gil393]

Does anybody know if there is an ARP flywheel bolt that works or do I have to get new factory bolts?

 

[phattires]

Here's the part #'s I used ..... I used a xtd flywheel though .
arp flywheel bolts part # 203-2801
arp pp bolts part # 103-2201

 

[gil393]

Thank you! Those are ordered. There is one more thing I can't find. The bolts that go from the transmission to the engine. I don't have them because I bought an engine and transmission separately. I've looked all over the various Toyota part sites and I can't find a diagram with these on them, or even a name for them. Any pointers to a diagram, name, etc. is appreciated.

 

[phattires]

I'm pretty sure Gouky has a list of the size and lengths .... he talked about a bolt kit but don't think he got that done .

 

[gil393]

So this project just got real. It is all fun and games until you start doing the work. 7 hours in and the 1zz is not out yet. I was making good progress until I got to the wiring harness bits up in the left corner. It will look better in the morning, final disconnects and then drop the engine down and raise the car up. Being old, fat and stiff makes it a little harder, having a lift makes it easier.

It’s also a little sad to be undoing all of the work I did to get this car running and put back together. Hopefully, I got a good engine and it won’t have to come apart for a while.

Final thought, is that this will never be stock again. That is good and bad I guess. I did want to go play in ES. OTOH, the stock intake I sourced and put back in was only in the car for two months. When I removed it a mouse was already inhabiting the air box. All of my cars have this problem, but really, two months. No living in a cone filter, so there.

 

[gil393]

So I.m down to the battery connection at the starter and the fuel line. Is the fuel line disconnected at the top or at the bottom. If it is done at the bottom do I get showered in gas? Secondly, how is that starter wire removed? I can't even see it. Is it done from the top or the bottom? Almost done with step 1, minute 1 of the first video. Remove old engine.

 

[phattires]

Fuel line is easiest from the bottom , there's a quick connect .... don't remember a lot of fuel coming out . You can also disconnect from the fuel rail but it's a pain . If I remember right you split the two wires up by the battery terminal and it comes off with the engine harness and can remove it when you get the engine out .

 

[gil393]

Thank you!

 

[gil393]

Thirteen hours start to finish. The darndest things took way too long. Separate battery cable, 30 minutes, had to use a breaker bar and a pipe wrench. AC was a pain, coolant draining was only so so, got a lot of spillage when dropping engine. Should have removed front engine mount from under the car before doing the left and right. Little things add up. If the engine has been out and there are not too many stuck bolts and you know what you are doing then maybe 6 hours.

 

[Biomed&Barolo]

Do you have a 1/2 inch impact wrench? Just curious to have the best understanding of time commitment.

 

[gil393]

I have one but only used it for the lug nuts and the bolts holding the strut to the rear knuckle. I contemplated using the 3/8 air ratchet but opted to do it all manually. Every here and there I found a bolt that needed some loving care. One of the ac bolts took 40 minutes. Two turns out one back in, repeat. The very long and thin bolt was quite rusted but came out whole. Also keep in mind that I have not done any mechanical work in about 10 years and am pretty out of shape. So, not a fast worker.

 

[Biomed&Barolo]

Definitely better to have a whole bolt than the other options.

 

[gil393]

Let the fun begin. My first used part, other than the engine and transmission arrived. I know these are parts recyclers but in what world does throwing an alternator into a 16" square box without any padding seem like a good idea? Box was trashed, UPS guys skulked sway before I could get to them. The four pin plug on the alternator is shattered and useless. This was a low lmiles grade A alternator. Can the plug be replaced. I can't find it on google because all I find is the harness side plug. Is it worth it to try and return something purchased on lkq or do I just eat the cost and use this as a core?