MR2 SpyderChat banner

21 - 40 of 54 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
146 Posts
Discussion Starter #21
So the plug does not appear to be replaceable. It is shown on the parts diagram as part of a $650 component of a $350 assembly. LKQ was great and easy to deal with, issues a refund and told me to keep the doorstop.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
146 Posts
Discussion Starter #23
<Rant>
Well, this sucks. I started the wiring and it is pretty much a hard stop, no go. I figured out how to de-pin the big orange connector. I though, hey this will be a peice of cake. Then I tried to de-pin the small 3 wire Drl connector. I couldn't even see the holes and even if I could have I'm no surgeon. This is exceedinglu bit fiddly work that if you have 50+ year old eyes will need significant magnification. I think I essentially just ripped out the two unused wires. It is possible that they need a really good tug. Next I moved onto the black 1zz connector which needs to be depinned so that the wires can be re-used. Aside from a few of my wires appearing melted it is theoretically (and in the video) a very simple procedure. In 20 minutes I got 2 wires out and I think I just yanked them. I tried to put one back in, you know like will need to be done later. I just laughed, I couldn't even see which direction to put them in.

So, I'm dead in the water until I get a big magnifying glass thingy and even then I don't see this going well. I'll keep trying but this is certainly not my kind of work. I think another member finished the project but has a no start issue. I suspect it is because of issues with this part of the project.
</Rant>
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,403 Posts
Let the fun begin. My first used part, other than the engine and transmission arrived. I know these are parts recyclers but in what world does throwing an alternator into a 16" square box without any padding seem like a good idea? Box was trashed, UPS guys skulked sway before I could get to them. The four pin plug on the alternator is shattered and useless. This was a low lmiles grade A alternator. Can the plug be replaced. I can't find it on google because all I find is the harness side plug. Is it worth it to try and return something purchased on lkq or do I just eat the cost and use this as a core?
If you have an "auto electric" shop in your area, they might be able to replace the plug.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
146 Posts
Discussion Starter #25
I purchased a replacement and lkq refunded the original. It is not available from Toyota as a separate part. Also, with Covid I am trying to do most of this project online. I went out for two harborfreight runs and to pick up the engine. Everything else has been shipped.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
153 Posts
Make sure you get the right tools for depinning. I ended up just pulling some of the stubborn small ones out, and it worked for me...
 

·
Registered
Spectra Blue 2003 SMT with Quaife LSD
Joined
·
270 Posts
I’m an engineer who does some electrical, and my uncle is a PCB and microelectronics designer. I’m still young but he is in his 50s and does fine with micro-soldering et cetera. If you don’t have reading glasses that work well for you, get them. If you can find those glasses with a flip down magnifier those are helpful too but I have no idea where those come from. But a table mounted magnifying arm with a ring light is awesome. Will save your sanity on any future electronic work.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
146 Posts
Discussion Starter #28
I have better depinning tools coming Sunday. I may end up with some loupes/headset for small detail work. The issue might also be fine motor skills. I have none and that has gotten worse with age. I have recruited my daughter for this portion of the project, She is a sewer and can thread a needle the first time. It will be her christmas gift to me. The wiring is really well documented and conceptually quite easy. I'm going to do the axles tonight, that is more my speed. Hopefully, not too much blue schmoo.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
842 Posts
Prepping yourself with something to hold what you’re working on is priceless, whether you have issues with fine motor skills or not. Being able to brace your wrist or hand on something as you work instead of free handing it while trying to also hold what you’re working on helps a lot. I have steadier hands than most but this definitely applies across the board.

When you need a break from the small stuff hammers & wrenches definitely help work the frustration off. Best of luck with the build...excited to see how it goes for you
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
146 Posts
Discussion Starter #30
I started taking apart the Cardone Remanufactured axles. That is a job that I am much better suited for. Two of the three axles were identical in shaft diameter and construction. Unfortunately, the AB axle 60-5237 was completely different. The tripod did not have swivel bearings just straight bearings and the tripod was about 10mm longer and much beefier and the inner diameter was 1mm greater. I can't tell if this is a new item, sold as remanufactured, or perhaps a remanufactured, non oem, axle. The tipoff is the lack of inspection sticker and the 5237 laser etched in the axle shaft. Unfortunately, the AB shaft has both parts re-used so I can't go much further. One other possability is that this is a rebuilt Scion unit and not a rebuilt rav4 unit. The part is cross listed for both vehicles. I could see Toyota putting a beefier axle in the Scion.

In any event I have ordered another 60-5237. I got it from Amazom as returns are just a matter of taking it to Kohls. I won't have to disassemble it to tell if it will work. If it works I will be fine. If it doeasn't then I have an issue. I could try and buy the two other axles from Cardone Select (New) but I am wary of the right hand axle as the pictures online look like my current axle and I might be back in mix and match land.

The EMPI axles that Mark spec's appear to be NLA. So I need to source from a single supplier that likely uses common parts internally. I am researching now. Heri seems to be the best bet. They have a technical support line I can call, so fingers crossed. If anybody has done this and has a brand of new axles that interchanges correctly please let me know.

Thanks,
Greg
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
146 Posts
Discussion Starter #32
So the the second Cardone 60-5237 I ordered was indeed remanufactured. In fact a bit too already used for a 100K miles compared to the other remanufactured axles. Fortunately, it matched perfectly and I now have two good axles. The key to knowing that it is indeed remanufactured is the inspection sticker on the axle. It seems they will occasionally "upgrade" you to a new unit when they don't have stock. The new units will not interchange with the remans, and will have the part # laser etched on the axle.

Unfortunately, the new axle had copious amounts of blue axle grease in it. I cleaned it out as best I could with paper towel, but they are by no means pristine. So my questions are:
  • can a little bit of blue schmoo mix with a little bit of the black grease?
  • if not, how do you get them spotless
  • when putting them back together what cv grease should I use.

Other than the re-order time and the extra expense of one axle, the axle process has been pretty easy. A good mechanic could do it in an hour, a duffer like me who struggles with c-clamps more like 2.5 hours. I purchased a small brass drift and hammer set which made removing the tripods trivial.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
3,582 Posts
I don't think a little blue would hurt anything .... probably any cv joint grease will work . I went with hi-temp cv joint grease like this one below , in Gouky's racecar he's melted a cv boot .

 

·
Registered
Joined
·
146 Posts
Discussion Starter #34
So I spent the day on the wiring. You need to use a real de-pinning tool like in the documentation. The rings of cheap stamped metal keys will not work. Once I did that things got better. I de-pinned a connector like the E4 connector with about a 60% firrst try rate and 10% 10x try rate. There is no point in being able to see what you are doing it is all feel. Starting with the black E4, however, like I did is especially not good. I got everything done up to the splices for the E4 connector. I trashed my E4 connector and will need a new one which arrives Monday. I did manage to get the plug through the grommet without the tool mentioned in the video. I used some long relatively small hose pliers. I also, lubricated the inside of the grommet with just a smidge if wd40 to help things glide through. All in all, I think that is the one thing that looked easier when I did it than in the video. So with luck my crimps will go well and I will finish the wiring harness on Monday. This one took a while but it is easy, indoor, kitchen table, type work. About 6 hours for a duffer like me, 4 hours if you know what you are doing. No point in rushing this as it will make or break the install.

50+ degrees tomorrow, so I am going to tackle the transmission and start putting the engine together. Cold and snow next weekend so I may wait to do the actual install. There is no hurry at this poinbt as the tires need 50+ degrees just to have wieght on them.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
146 Posts
Discussion Starter #35
So with the cold weather and holidays coming I think the build is going to slow down. I noticed Marc had a kit with the little red plastic caps that come on a junkyard engine. I looked on amazon but could not find a kit only large quantities of a single size. Does anybody have a link or search term that might help me find a kit so I can button this thing up for a while?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
146 Posts
Discussion Starter #36
I started the transmission today. It went pretty smoothly. The only issue I had was not removing the line to the clutch master cylinder. Once that was done, a little light tapping where the dowel pins are and it came free. Sadly, it looks a little rough. Is this normal for the inside of a transmission? The top green bearing turns but not freely so it will need replacing. I can see grit in the rest of the bearings. This is a 2015 transmission with 50K miles. Should I replace all of the bearings, just wipe it down and change the oil frequently, something else? Any advice appreciated. This is my first look inside a transmission.

79759

79760
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
153 Posts
Definitely change the top bearing. I haven’t seen much in the tC groups about anything else, but my supposed 25k transmission is going to need synchros at some point.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
842 Posts
I don't have much trans experience but grit & bearings tends to be a tip of the iceberg type phenomenon that leaves me with an uneasy feeling.

IMHO if you are at a point in your life that money is more important I would consider testing parts that may be a bit questionable..but if you are at a point where time is more valuable I would swap out anything that you think may have any chance of making you need to pull that trans again after your swap. This is within reason of course...weighing the price of the bearings against the personal price you put on potentially pulling the trans later.

Best of luck with your build, always nice to see someone take the dive into the deep end mechanically & triumph in the end
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,403 Posts
I would not even try to rebuild that transmission! The dirt, grit or metal particles that seem to be everywhere are going to damage every bearing and gear in the transmission, if they haven't already.

Dave
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
146 Posts
Discussion Starter #40
I would not even try to rebuild that transmission! The dirt, grit or metal particles that seem to be everywhere are going to damage every bearing and gear in the transmission, if they haven't already.

Dave
The bearings and races are not scored. It does not appear to have been run in this condition. The current plan is to disassemble and clean then reasses.
 
21 - 40 of 54 Posts
Top