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Discussion Starter #41
Weather is warmer! I'm going to start trying to put this back together. The transmission is back from the local Honda speed shop down the road. They have several shop cars in the 8 second range and a MR2 Spyder sitting in the lot that is destined to go really fast in a straight line, albeit with Honda power. I asked why they didn't call me about ordering the shim for the differential and they said it is faster to just make them. Hopefully that is a good sign.

I want to put the transmission and engine together this weekend. I have a new flywheel, clutch and slave/throwout. My question is, do you need to pre-bleed or fill the slave cylinder on the eb6?. Since the bleed port is upstream will it fill naturally or is something special required? I've only worked with external clutch cylinders where the bleed port is on the slave cylinder itself.
 

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Discussion Starter #42
One more clutch hydraulic question. It seems like I will need a m12x1 inverted flare female hose end and a m10x1 inverted flare male hose end for the swap hydraulic line. Since I only have the eb6x clutch bleed fitting (no accumulator) it looks like my line can be shorter. However, since I can't seem to find much in the way of the m12x1 female connector I'm not sure how to proceed.

a) Get M10x1 male to male adapter. Use stock hose as is. Cheap and easy but hose will be too long
b) Same as above but with custom length M12 female to m10 female hose. Where to find this?
c) M12 female to -3an male adapter, m10x1 male to -3an male adapter. Off the shelf custom length -3an female to female hose. Where to find the M12 female to -3an male adapter?

Are my hose size assumptions from reading other posts correct? If so, any recommendations or links appreciated. Thanks!
 

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Bleeding is a giant pain- I would do everything I could to minimize the air prior to putting it together.
I used the stock clutch hose with the fittings on the EB60. I think monkey wrench might sell an extension hose if you need it.
 

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Glad to see you back out of hibernation ....
I think with the compressed air method for bleeding your clutch system I don't think it would make any difference if you pre-bleed the slave .

I didn't really follow all that clutch hose talk , think you're over thinking it . I routed my hard line to the other side of the front mount but I also used a flexible stainless line for a spyder .
 

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Bleeding is a giant pain- I would do everything I could to minimize the air prior to putting it together.
I used the stock clutch hose with the fittings on the EB60. I think monkey wrench might sell an extension hose if you need it.
If you get air in the clutch master cylinder, the easiest method of getting the bleeding going is a simple and cheap vacuum bleeder. I get the system primed with vacuum and finish with a few conventional pedal pumps.
 

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Discussion Starter #46
Is there a trick to putting the transmission onto the engine? I've done this 4 or 5 times on different cars in the past. Occasionally takes a second try but not usually. Does the clutch slave have to be compressed somehow to start? I noticed it is spring loaded and can be pushed in. I'm not sure how this is supposed to operate. Does it also expand from the set position as well as push in?

Also, I wanted to do the dip stick modification but I can't see how to get the dip stick out. Do you just pry at the bottom, yank and twist? The 2ar dip stick is mounter on a boss or flange bolt of some sort and the whole assembly is rusty. at the junction. Any tips, help, suggestions welcome.
 

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There shouldn't be a trick ...and the clutch slave shouldn't be an issue . First I'd make sure the clutch disc slides on the the trans spline shaft correctly . I had a wrong clutch disc the first time . Then I'd guess the disc isn't lined up in the center of the pressure plate fingers , if I remember there's no alignment tool .

Yes the dipstick at the bottom you just wiggle twist and pull .... I'll assume you took the bolts out further up the stick .

81512
 

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Discussion Starter #48
Mine came with an alignment tool, had some left to right movement but no up and down movement. I centered it on the left to right movement. I did check the clutch splines fit on the transmission. I guess I'll put a smidge of grease on the splines, re-center the disc and use a floor jack to lift the transmission, I just got unlucky I guess. I might try without the alignment bolts, I have never used them before. I think without them it might allow a little bit more initial misalignment.
 

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Yes put a little grease on the splines ....

The disc is probably just a little off ... a re- center and try again .
 

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There shouldn't be a trick ...and the clutch slave shouldn't be an issue . First I'd make sure the clutch disc slides on the the trans spline shaft correctly . I had a wrong clutch disc the first time . Then I'd guess the disc isn't lined up in the center of the pressure plate fingers , if I remember there's no alignment tool .

Yes the dipstick at the bottom you just wiggle twist and pull .... I'll assume you took the bolts out further up the stick .

View attachment 81512
Unless you don't plan to run much at high power levels, you will come to regret wrapping the headers. see this explanation: Why you should not wrap headers – Roth Automotive Science
 

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Discussion Starter #51
Transmission on! I just re-centered and lubed the splines. Had to pull it on with a bolt or two but no effort required. 1zz clutch tube is out, 2ar is thinking about it. Letting it soak overnight. Thanks for the help.

Only "issue" currently is that the engine hoist seems to be giving up the ghost. It will hold the weight but I can't pump it up. For a while I could pump it quickly for a minute or two and then I could raise the engine. Now I pump for 5 minutes and nothing. In the old days you went to a hydraulic shop, now days I guess you go to harbor freight. Fortunately the engine is also on a hydraulic cart in a wood cradle.
 

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Sometimes the leak is internal due to bad seals...RIP my last floor jack for that reason.
 
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