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Discussion Starter · #61 · (Edited)
The long through bolt on the driver's side mount. I found an m10x100 that appears to be the correct bolt. Made slow progress today. Very mad at myself for losing the m12 female to an adapter. I saw it come in, looked at it but can't find it. OTOH, the panel bashing was cathartic until my arms got tired.

I was at TSC looking for a weather proof electrical connector for the a/c. The auto parts stores seem useless. TSC has a much better supply of everything useful, especially bolts. I need to remember to go there more.

Second question of the day. The engine side fuel line is proving very hard to disconnect. The internal clips are metal, There are at least two of them but I suspect there might be 3. None of the usual tools for this type of connector seem to work since there is that ridge in the way. How is this removed?
 

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Discussion Starter · #63 ·
There are 4 clips. I was having a problem getting the disconnect to work because of the ridge in the line that prevents typical usage. After a while I was able to get it.
 

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Discussion Starter · #64 ·
I'm having trouble getting the top bolt out of the main motor mount (passenger side). The other end of the bolt seems to be embedded in the rubber mount and when I try and loosen it the whole rubber mount twists. I don't want to damage the mount. Is there a way to get something on the other end? There is no engine in the car this is just the old motor mount with the 1zz bracket still attached. I'm trying to remove it in preparation. Any hints?
 

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Those can sometimes be a bear .... I think I used an air impact , after a good soak of pb blaster which I'm not sure if it helped .
 

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Discussion Starter · #66 ·
There is a 21mm flat portion that you can get a wrench on to hold the bottom. My 700 ft-lbs stubby impact didn't even budge it. The big impact is kaput so I either buy a big impact for $150 or buy a new innovative mount for $120 or a stock/oem mount for about $140 Open to suggestions, all other mounts are new oem mounts except for the one from Marc that comes with the kit. Open to suggestions! In the mean time, I'm going to watch the Mets and let the PB blaster maybe help.
 

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Discussion Starter · #68 ·
I didn't remember the flat spot .... in that case I'd try a big ole breaker bar .
After soaking over night a 3ft breaker on top, 21mm open end on the bottom resting up against the strut tower and it came loose. The mount should probably be replaced but I don't want to hold up the install and it can be changed with the engine in the car if need be. Just waiting for a plumbing part for the clutch and some more heat shield sleeve and then it is ready to go in.
 

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Discussion Starter · #69 ·
So I had been having issues with the dipstick. This is the one part that Marc left as an exercise for the reader. I, of course, botched the job of bending the 1zz dipstick. So I was left to keep buying 1zz dipsticks or trying something else.

This is the 2ar dipstick with the mounting tab reshaped and re-drilled to move it away from the headers. It is cut off about 1.5" above the mounting tab and the end is flared with a punch and a dremel. The cut off portion is used on the other end to mount to the stock 1zz mounting o ring. It slides in and out easily and avoids having to buy more stuff (other than clamps and line). The line is rated to 350 degrees continuous. I'm a little afraid that it will be too hot in there. I've asked Marc and a waiting to hear back. I might try a silicone insulating sleeve around it as well. Fingers crossed. I'd hate to have to remove the engine to repair this. On the other hand I don't want to keep buying dipsticks either...

82091
 

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Discussion Starter · #70 ·
So the video says, just get an o2 extender. I got one, it looked close in the pictures. It is close but it does not fit. So there are apparently many different plug types for the o2 sensors. How do I go about finding one that will work for a 1zz sensor? It never said anywhere but I am re-using the o2 sensor from the 1zz (one of the two in the pre-cats) since it is brand new. Will that work? The rear o2 sensor from the 1zz has the same plug and a much longer cord, should I just use that? I thought that the ones in the pre-cat were more sensitive but I might be wrong.

At this point each step is a landmine requiring another two days of shipping in order to not quite finish...
 

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Discussion Starter · #72 ·
Well, abject failure today trying to put the engine in. But for the video I would say it doesn't fit. It most certainly is not as easy as the video makes it out to be. Things I ran into:
  • When it says bash in your firewall about 10mm it really means 10mm. In fact I'm not sure 10mm is enough. I think I will go for 15mm. Also, pretty much the entire area needs to be 10mm, not just the middle and tapering to 5 or 6 on the edges.
  • When you use the straps it is pretty much certain that the right hand strap will walk such that the hook on the end will interfere with the motor mount. I ended up just removing the right hand main motor mount to get the engine in. Not worth the effort to try and do it with it in place.
  • Make sure the buckle portion of the front strap (the one going to the starter hole) is not in-line with the trunk edge. It will bind or catch on the lip if it is.
What is the procedure for putting in the engine? Do you put it in at an angle right top to bottom left / and then try and get the right side mount going or do you lift it up level and let the left side mount start to line up and then try and push the right side in far enough? My left side mount was so tight that once it got close, even though it was not bolted through I could not move much of anything?

Second question, what is the electrical connector that sticks up on the left front of the engine (gray connector for me). Does that fit? A few times I was hung up on that trying to push the engine in. Should I bash the firewall over there too?

The family went to the beach today, I probably should have joined them.
 

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I connected the passenger side motor mount then raised the left side. I agree it’s tight... it took me a good hour to get it in. Make sure the wire support for the alternator and ac is not still installed as it won’t fit.
I don’t know what you mean by gray connector on the left side of the engine?
 

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Discussion Starter · #74 ·
The connector looks like a cam position sensor. The wires are all smashed and flattened. Not good. I am going to "clearance" that area as well. I may need to fix that. I used a bigger, better hammer and the engine now fits. I almost got it situated on the second try. Couldn't quite get the bolt to thread but it was right there. Went to move the other end and the whole thing shifted. I had forgotten to keep the brass punch or a screwdriver in the passenger mount to hold it in place. So, I'll drop it again, make sure the threads in the passenger mount are good and try again. Third time should be a charm. At least I'm flaming out much more quickly now!
 

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Discussion Starter · #75 ·
It fits, a/c hooked up taking a break before tackling the coolant hose. Seems like plenty of room, we'll see...

82141
 

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Discussion Starter · #77 ·
When cutting the coolant hose do you cut a bit from both ends or just one? Also, how do you do you measure. Just cut a little and then iterate or make a template and cut to match the template?
 

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You have to cut it on both ends. You kind of need to eyeball it. Make sure to keep the rear motor mount unconnected to push the engine back so there is enough room to get it in.
 
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