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2AR Build for the mechanically challenged

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13K views 105 replies 12 participants last post by  gil393 
#1 ·
So I pulled the trigger after trying and failing to save the 1zz. I'd like to use this thread to show that even a very timid wrencher can do this swap with the knowledge and wisdom of the group. I will post all of my issues and questions here since there is no reason to pollute the other threads with one off questions. I have a very leisurely timetable (done my next March) so plenty of time to ponder.

Thus far I have an eb60 coming from Canada with 71k. I have Marc's full kit minus the a/c bracket and the body controller. I have an Aisin stock clutch kit and a Fidanza flywheel.

Here are the first issues:
  • Scion TC MT engine with 50K for $700 (hit type unknown) or a Scion TC MT engine with 5k miles (rear end hit) for $1400. I know you can find these much cheaper at pick and pulls but I doubt there is one within 75 miles of here. Also with Covid I'd prefer to have the transaction be simple. Cost is not really a problem either way. 5K engine is 2.5 hours away so that is a bit of an issue.
  • How do you get a motor home? Will it fit in the back of a ratty Suburban without damaging the engine? Should I rent a small u-haul trailer and just have them put it on that?
  • Axles? A search for the empi part numbers yields nothing. Can I get the axles for the corresponding RAV4 models from a random supplier as long as they all come from the same supplier?
Thanks for any and all help and I hope that this helps the next duffer who attempts this.
 
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#84 ·
This might be my last question until I get to the exhaust or have a no start condition. I've attached a picture. I am trying to plumb the left hand hard line. I know it goes to the charcoal canister and should have a service port and a valve on it. I have those, but can't find the scion tc electrical connector. The valve is shown on both the TC and the spyder emissions diagrams, just no connector that I can find on the TC engine wiring harness. Second issue is that it plugs into the stock airbox which is no longer present. I have an unused port on the top of the intake pipe. Can I use that. It is on the correct side of the throttle plate but should ideally, I believe, be on the other side of the maf sensor. I suppose I could just hook it up without the valve but not sure if that is a good thing or a bad thing...

82292
 
#86 ·
Video 4 is done! How did I lose the coolant cap? Battery tray was way too much time for a mediocre job. I should not make parts. The only issue is some a/c wiring that needs tucked away but which is hard to get to. Waiting on an air filter and the body controller. Should start it up this week. Battery charger is on!
 
#87 ·
Any advice on an exhaust? I tried to order a Megan Racing because it is 2.5" mandrel bent and fairly quiet. Back order until August, maybe September. So, not really an option. I have a stock muffler that is fairly quiet but the piping seems small. Empirically this is a bad thing but I might be wrong. Has anybody dyno'd the stock catback vs something "bigger/better"? Does anybody have recommendations for a suitable catback muffler that is performant, yet fairly quiet?
 
#88 ·
I'd probably part with my thru the bumper exhaust . I'm putting a Veilside body kit on and the exhaust will have to be completetly redone . I think I have about $300 in it ...... but shipping would probably be a killer . I used the oem header and done know if it's at the same angle as Gouky's header . I used a muffler from a jeep .... cj I think .
 
#89 ·
I appreciate the thought but I need to exit in the stock location (autox rules, not that important but I should at least try to look legal), Also shipping on a full system, sans headers, might be a bit much. I think I'll end up using the stock muffler and doing a dyno before run. If I'm close to 205 I'll not worry. If I'm not, I'll have a 2.5" with custom muffler made and see how it compares. The only other exhaust I can find is a Manzo and they don't have great reviews.
 
#91 ·
So fedex arrived with a body controller, air cleaner, and an o2 extension. I figured I better get video 5 finished. Put the pedal in, hooked up the body controller, found my keys (it's been quite a while), checked the oil just in case, pulled the shop towel out of the exhaust and gave it a shot. Started first try! No leaks, no drama. I have some final touches to get to tomorrow and then off for an exhaust. I can't wait to drive it. A big thanks to all who have answered my endless stream of questions. Also, a huge thanks to Marc for all of the products he sells to make this possible and the outstanding customer service. He would answer emails at all ours of the day and night, I don't think he sleeps.

I will put together a post mortem on this once I get it out on the road and get my first autocross in. Also, in honor of finishing I got full insurance with an agreed upon value that allows autocross and track days but does not cover damage at those events. After all this work I couldn't see getting $3k if something happens.
 
#92 ·
The correct throttle/gas pedal part number is 78010-33010. 02-06 Camry. The one I got was a 33020 off of an 07 Camry. The 07 looked a lot like an 02 on the inventory tag so I guess that was the source of the issue. So, always check your part #s when you receive a part. The 07 runs the car it just sits about 3 inches too high. I have a 33010 to go pickup for $25 this afternoon. Off to get an exhaust tomorrow. Decided to go with a cat and a Magnaflow 14210. No resonator. Hopefully it is not too loud.
 
#93 ·
Yikes! Called and was told to bring the car in for exhaust. Now told that they are very backed up and it will be more than a week before they can even look at it. Sigh...Anybody know a shop or a welder in central nj that does decent work? PM me if you do.
 
#94 ·
How/where do those who have completed the swap run the wiring for the had pedal. I see a loom and wiring running behind the clutch pedal, which seems ideal for this purpose, however it looks like that requires removing the clutch pedal assembly. Can that just be done or will it cause the clutch adjustment to get off an be a big pain to put back? Also, can I just tie it loosely to the front side of the clutch pedal, across the top pivot area, instead of going behind? Speaking of clutches, I have a stock pressure plate and disc. It is super light. Almost can't even feel any resistance in the clutch pedal. Works great, slips fine, no judder, just zero pressure. Is this normal?
 
#96 ·
I drove it in anger today and what a blast! The car is fast and the power is always right there.

I made one major mistake on the install. There is a bracket that holds the a/c wiring away from pulley. This should be removed. I didn’t and consequently had a problem getting the engine in and aligned until my efforts basically bent the bracket to fit.

So after following all of Marc’s directions and videos, it just works. I had two small issues after my first startup. The obligatory overheating due to an air bubble which was easily remedied with a second vacuum fill. The other issue was a no charge due to the alt ign2 wire being plugged in to the wrong pin. I was initially very worried about the wiring but it took me about 20 minutes to remove all of the wiring, unloom it, verify all of the splices and wires in the charging circuits, re-pin the misplaced wire, and then put it all back.

The exhaust is cat into a Magnaflow 14210. It is not too loud, very performant, most people will like it. I find it a bit loud, especially with the top up.

The lsd works great, very quiet and smooth for a clutch type. Could not easily break the rear away in the dry with 200tw, 225 tire.

This has to be the easiest swap around given how complete it is and the fact that the engine is cheap, not very old, not very stressed, and has plenty of torque and just enough hp (230). I can’t imagine what the 300+hp 1ar will be like.

A final huge thanks, shout out and props, to Marc and Frankenstein Motorworks, for this great kit and assistance during this install. If I can do it, anybody can.
 
#98 · (Edited)
And not so fast!. I just got my 2 year emissions inspection, was heading down to pick up some tail light bulbs and WHAM!. I thought I missed a 1-2 shift. Instead it stayed in first and the 1-2 shifter is broken at the transmission. I can just take it and move it by hand full range back and forth. It is like the shaft broke or it is not connected to anything. Something seems off with the other gate as well because it doesn't move by hand at the transmission but feels disconnected at the shifter. Car runs fine, no transmission noises, drives in first gear no issues, just no getting it out of first gear.

I think the 914 is coming out and the MR2 is going back in. I really did not want to drop the engine again until this fall, sigh! Going to look for a missing e-clip and/or shift detents backing out. If that doesn't do it then I will probably have to remove the transmission.
 
#100 ·
It looks like the e-clip on the 1-2 shaft came off. If I get the shaft lined up I can pull it up and it locks into place and I have shifting. (as longs as I manually pull up on the shaft). There is an e-clip that goes on the shaft and holds it into place. I guess it popped off. I'll check my 1zz transmission and see if it has a similar one, otherwise I'm down for a few days while I source the clip. Should be about a $3 fix that can be done in the driveway. So glad the transmission is not coming out!.
 
#102 ·
All fixed, the collar on the shaft was rusted and didn’t move freely. I did not even realize it went on the base of the shaft. Some penetrating oil, remove old clip, slide collar down, replace clip in correct location and done.
Was very excited to get my first fill up after the new engine. Ended up at the gas station pulling the lever and tugging on the gas door. Fortunately, I was still close to home. So another project for tomorrow.
 
#104 ·
EMPI is NLA - No Longer Available as best I can tell. I used Cardone remanufactured axles. The only issue is that one of them was remanufactured from a non original equipment axle and did not match. It did not look like the others, ie it had laser etching on it and the paint quality was too good. It may have even been a new axle. I ordered a different one with the same part # and it worked fine. I did not bother sending the different one back but I could have.
 
#106 ·
I believe the spec says 140-150g for an inner joint. That is 5.2oz or so. I think, I measured out 7oz on mine but not all of it ended up in the joint as some sticks to the gloves and the wrong side of the boot. FWIW, I used redline cv2 which is overkill unless racing.
 
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