The cost documentation ....

1800 engine dropout with auto trans
935 6spd. manual with Slave assembly and throw out bearing
525 trans / engine mounts
58 DBW pedal mount
87 ac delete
387 shifter kit
175 flywheel / clutch / pp
51 arp flywheel bolts part # 203-2801
16 arp pp bolts part # 103-2201
70 used wiring harness
18 rav4 06-08 2.4 t-housing
260 used oem axles (200) / bought new boots (60.00)
70 2 belts that didn't fit 40 , the correct belt 15 , a little longer belt to check fitment / extra 15
35 used 07 -11 camry air cleaner
20 eom bolts for trans to block will add part #'s later
15 new right side trans seal part# 90311-40036

4522 .00 total so far if I added right

 

This is great, I think the CA legal exhaust is going to be a very interesting experiment. it certainly won't be bolt-in but i think it won't be entirely ridiculous to implement. Also as mentioned above this will be dyno'd side by side with a full 4-2-1 header and more race like open exhaust. I expect there will be a power difference but i don't expect it will be very significant.

 

Time to start mating the trans with the engine so I started with the reverse detent cam install in the 6spd manual . It seems pretty intimidating but it's not that bad once you get started . The directions are pretty good .. I just add some things that helped me . You don't have to force anything it seems you just have to get the right wiggle jiggle correct . Also a roll of paper towels and a small block of wood for the punch work

here's a link to Gouky's how to ....
Clickable link to document:


Went to harbor Frt. and picked up some tools , the short punch set is all you need ,really just the 1/4" one . The extending magnet was too big so I didn't use it .

I did buy some small rare earth magnets , they work perfect on the end of small allen wrench to retrieve the detent balls

When I split the cases the end bearing shim was on the bearing , I needed to put it back in the top case pocket .

Cleaned the magnet ...

to put the cases back together you need to line up the reverse bolt with the bolt hole in the case .

all back together

 

Very impressive, looking forward to seeing the more

 

The only downside to buying a dropout is that you have to remove all the Scion stuff .

With that done it's new parts time .... I'm going to cut a corner and use a XTD flywheel (11lbs10oz.) PP and clutch . Plus I'm going to use the oem throw bearing and slave cyl. that came with the trans for a total of $175 bucks . It may come back to bite me but I'll roll the dice. Gouky on the other hand is going with ACT stuff his flywheel was about a 1lb and a few oz. lighter but his cost will come in around $700 .

Before the mate up don't forget the lube ... I use krytox .

All mated up and starter attached ....

 

The A/C delete bracket in stall .... it's pretty straight forward . Remove 2 nuts and 2 long bolts .

My hoses were cut so I didn't have to remove those and don't forget the electrical connects .

Then remove the compressor bracket .

Then just bolt Gouky's bracket on ... hardware included and then bolt the pulley on to the bracket . There were 2 size belts mentioned , I bought the smaller one but the heavy duty (HD) version and it wouldn't fit so I have the larger one on order and will post if it fits .

:EDIT:
The 2 belts that "were" mention didn't fit , there was an error when converted from Bando to Gates .

And it was also discovered that that the 2011 Camry 2ar (Gouky's) has a 4 rib crank pulley while my 2012 Scion Tc has a 6 rib . So make sure you check which one you have before you order . With that being said :

4 rib belt is Bando 4pk1110 , or Gates K040438

the 6 rib belt is gates k060435 , bando 6pk1105 ..... this size best 44.125" or gates k060439 , bando 6pk1115 ..... still ok 44.50"

the 6 rib belt takes a different pulley those are : Dayco ... steel pulley #89540, or plastic #89184
also with the 6 rib pulley it needs a .140 spacer on the backside to align everything .

 

Interesting that the smaller one did not fit. can you tell me which brand that was?

 

Trans Mounts install .... rear and left side . Just bolt on with the hardware provided .

The front mount needs a little help . There's a protrusion on the block that needs to be ground down or the mount won't sit flat . It's about an 1/8th of an inch. Real easy to remove with a flap wheel .

Here it is ground down ...

Then just bolt on with the hardware provide . Round hole goes on the top with the slot on the bottom . Of course the pretty aluminum piece bolts to the firewall . That's all the trans mount ... the right side engine mount will be installed after I lift the engine in place .

 

Next it's time to start rerouting the coolant line and see if I can make the oem exhaust header and cat fit . More after I get this started .

 

thanks for the updates... i'm glad you are pioneering this for us and documenting the process... i am very interested in this swap since i never did my 2ZZ swap... may be a better DD alternative for me...

 

Sure ... it's part of the fun !

I think it's a pretty interesting swap so far . I think it's going to be a great DD with a little extra power down low where you want it . The biggest downside I see so far is the cost ... it's adding up pretty quick . :chuncky: I will be documenting that also .

 

Wow a swap documentation with costs! Now that's awesome. Best of luck!

 

Looking good, Randy. This is a very interesting read.

 

Thanks ... I'm trying very hard to stay focused on one spyder . I'm hoping to have this wrapped up by mid January.
Then on to the 2gr .... a " big " maybe for the Dragon Run .

Are you going to go drag racin with us ?

 

I added cost so far to post #2

 

Another thought on that cheaper flywheel and clutch. I've been looking over the NHRA regulations because i'm going to play with mine at the track. anything 11.49 or faster in the quarter needs an SFI approved clutch and flywheel and i can't find evidence of that XTD flywheel being approved.

Of course, for most people this simply won't matter. a spyder without weight reduction will need 300-320rwhp to get there and it only matters at NHRA drag strips. This only really matters for me because i'm going to try to go way faster than that and also because my local track is lucas oil raceway in Indianapolis and i imagine they are pretty strict about NHRA rules there.

Also, since i just took the stocker off i was able to weigh it and compare them:
Stock: 17.6lbs
XTD: 11.6lbs
ACT: 10.1lbs

I think all three are perfectly adequate for this swap, i'm not trying to say one is superior to the other simply comparing them.

 

That's a interesting rule .... and I'm not surprised XTD isn't on the list . I doubt any serious drag racer would use an XTD but I think it will work fine for me .... I don't think I'll be breaking 11.49 anytime soon . But it maybe good info for someone .

Man ... that stocker sure is a chubby little rascal !!!

 

You Gotta Love Trailblazers

Thank you for and Gouky taking on this project.

I can't speak for others, but for me reading about all of the hard work that has gone into making the AR swap a possibility for us Spyder owners has been priceless.

Looking forward to your speedy and fun conclusions!

Paul

 

Thank you for and Gouky taking on this project.

I can't speak for others, but for me reading about all of the hard work that has gone into making the AR swap a possibility for us Spyder owners has been priceless.

Looking forward to your speedy and fun conclusions!

Paul

Thanks Paul but I can't take any credit for the 2AR swap . Gouky's been working on it for quite a while now . I'm just here to see if I can help speed it up a little . It's a lot for one guy to do . Glad you're enjoying the read ...

 

I did a few rough measurement for the coolant reroute and the exhaust and ran into a couple obstacles . The first being the clutch line seems to be about dead center where the exhaust needs to go . So that needs to be moved to the drives side where it should have been in the first place . The coolant line I thought could be slid forward can't so it will need at least 1 splice . To do that the gas tank will have to be dropped and all the a/c lines . When I get a little further I post some pictures .

I still need to remove the soft top so I can cut the firewall for better access . But the top shouldn't have to be removed after I figure it out .

 

I finally got the soft top out so I cut some holes ....

The coolant tube needs to cut the corner so it will be out of the way of the exhaust .

I was hoping I could get by with 1 splice in the coolant tube , not going to happen , it's going to take one more for a total of 2 .

I went ahead and cut my access hole ...probably bigger than I need . I will probably go ahead and make a header while the engine is in there . Getting anxious to see how the oe header fits , or not .

I also started draining fluids on the spyder the 2ar is going into ... coolant seems to be the biggest mess maker . Removed the rear bumper and exhaust .

 

I believe the 2GR version is the one he's going through all the trouble with to make into a fast Spyder.

 

Yes ... the 2GR is next ..... the fast one . The 2ar is just a warm up .

The 2gr is the one that will have the firewall cut and yes it will get filled in ....

 

no one should be surprised some people decide to have access through the firewall
by cutting big sections there. After all this is common sense to have access to ever
more complicated engines and ancillaries. Toyota like many just thinks cost saving
with boot access while others have no other way to access the engine properly for
example vans and the Porsche 987 which prob could be used for the MRS?
https://cdn4.pelicanparts.com/techa...rsche-987-Cayman/02-ENGINE-Removing_Engine_Access_Panels/images_small/pic04.jpg
https://cdn4.pelicanparts.com/techa...Porsche-987-Cayman/02-ENGINE-Removing_Engine_Access_Panels/images_med/pic05.jpg

 

redacted

 

https://frankensteinmotorworks.squarespace.com/mr2-spyder-shop/eb6x-transmission-shift-linkage-kit

WTF Really???! I hope that's a typo but I know it's not. Here I go again. So my trans went out completely and finding little jewels like this waiting in the wings sets me aback quite a bit. Anyone want a silver hardtop in C.Fl. hit me up. I'm not gonna sink this kinda money into it. I know this post lacks taste... just not in the best mood today.

I'm not 100% sure what you're saying with this post but I'd be happy to discuss it with you if there's an issue. It would probably be best to post the comments/complaints in the swap kit development thread: http://www.spyderchat.com/forums/sh...ms/showthread.php?116977-Thoughts-on-a-2AR-FE-swap-kit-for-the-Spyder&p=1992418 or feel free to drop me an e-mail if you want to keep it out of the public forum: Marc@frankensteinmotorworks.com

Thank you

 

The weather started to cooperate this week after 2 1/2 weeks of near 0 temps . So I'm officially 2 1/2 behind . It's rough getting back in the groove after being lazy for so long . Decided to do some things that don't require much thinking so I decided to start dropping the 1zz that the 2ar is going to replace .

Run into something I haven't seen before , when I was taking the rear strut bolt out I found a washer that was broke in half . Seems strange and have no idea why it broke ... thought that was interesting .

Have to have a pic with the 1zz out .... I have a lot of cleaning to do !

Too much time on my hands I had to buy some new wheels and tires . I've been wanting to try out the Federal 595 rs-r's , going square with 205/50/15 and 15x8 .... yep a little stretch

 

awesome

i like this thread already!
i hated reading 70+ pages for the k20 swap, and then still not knowing what would work and what i would end up spending...
almost lost me at the cutting the firewall step, but you said it wasn't necessary
the only thing i'm worried about here, i've never taken a transmission apart before.

and the final amount would go down a bit, if you count the parts you could resell back to scion people (ac and steering rack)

 

i like this thread already!
i hated reading 70+ pages for the k20 swap, and then still not knowing what would work and what i would end up spending...
almost lost me at the cutting the firewall step, but you said it wasn't necessary
the only thing i'm worried about here, i've never taken a transmission apart before.

and the final amount would go down a bit, if you count the parts you could resell back to scion people (ac and steering rack)

Yes I'm trying to give as much info as I can ....

Correct , the firewall doesn't have to get cut . Gouky will be offering a header that will fit with no cutting required . I'm trying to use the oem header and I'm sure there will be some cutting required for that to work . We'll see

I had never split a trans either so the first one I had help . Then after the write up I did one by myself and it's not as bad as one would think . If you take your time and read the "how to " a couple times I would think you wouldn't have any problem .

Yes cost will vary , the best way to save money is to fine a complete dropout with the 6spd manual where as I bought the dropout with the auto trans . I think in the end I'll be between 5-6k .

 

I got the engine sitting in my mock up chassis . It's needs a little hammer action on the passenger side top corner of the engine to make it fit . I'd rather he dropped the engine a little but then you start loosing ground clearance .

The oem header fits but it touches the firewall crossmember so it will need to be clearanced . Should be easy with a little radius cutout . I'm surprised how close it came to fitting .

And one from the side

 

Why does the top of the engine is hitting the firewall? Don't you use Gouky engine mounts?

 

Yes I'm using Goukys engine mounts .... he will probably chime in . But it's kind of a compromise to have the engine mounted high enough that you have enough ground clearance. I think he was going for stockish height so the exhaust would clear / not scrape .

 

Yeah, the engine does interfere slightly with the firewall. The 2AR is much taller than the 1ZZ at the top. I also needed to leave room for the A/C compressor at the bottom which compromised things slightly.

here you can see the hole i cut during the initial installation:

here you can see with the piece back on top that it is only a little bit:

but of course you need to make a little extra room for the engine to rock back and forth on the engine mounts.

Cutting the body is not required. some gentle work with a body hammer can stretch that area the little bit that is needed.