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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I started with a new project after I sold my previous MR2 with 2ZZ. I needed more power and decided on a 2GR with turbo, wide body, wide tires, and many more upgrades to manage the extra power. This project currently is not our priority as we are completing my Cobra project and will probably give it a full go in between times when the Cobra is off site or once it is completed, which should hopefully be within a few months.

I will post progress gradually and hope I can get some guidance from the clever ones on this forum.

Pic of the car before we molested it:
 

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Discussion Starter · #2 ·
Stripping the car is easy, but assembly is the challenge. So we started with the easy part


Engine in its best position with some cut work done to get the side shafts in line with the wheels
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Cut the cross member to clear the 3SGTE gearbox


Braced the mounting points for control arms and welded all plates properly. The car will be very strong and I want to ensure that all is strong an no unwanted movement takes place.


Mock up fit on the car before we drill holes and finalize welding and painting. I lifted the cross member 50mm up on the chassis as I want to have a low car without impacting on bump steer. Will later also modify the front control arm's mounting point and the front.
 

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It looks like you were able to minimize cuts to the crossmember at the bell housing by raising the crossmember. My crossmember got cut even more for clearance to factory exhaust manifolds. I assume you'll have custom headers going aft of the crossmember. I'm going to enjoy watching this build. Great start!
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
It looks like you were able to minimize cuts to the crossmember at the bell housing by raising the crossmember. My crossmember got cut even more for clearance to factory exhaust manifolds. I assume you'll have custom headers going aft of the crossmember. I'm going to enjoy watching this build. Great start!
Yes I will do custom manifold for turbo.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Right now I am considering what is best for rear hubs as the splines of standard hubs are too small, the hubs from MWR bought by me has weird splines and I am uncertain which CV's will work with it, and I have been advised that the hubs used by Rogue Motorsport broke. So any assistance will be appreciated.
 

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Registering....got to see/know more!

Looks like an amazing build.
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
Rear, it attaches from the knuckle to a tab on the frame rail. I'm curious how that needs to be "adjusted " if you raised the rear cross member 50mm.
We will cut into the chassis, build a box and weld the box into the chassis. The box will have a nut welded to the outer side. It will be much stronger than OE.
 

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Nice Mr Zeelie, you clearly have the resources to pull this off properly.

a few questions

1. Why forced induction and not NA? What are your power goals?

2. why turbo and not supercharge like the Evora?
 

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Would it be any easier to just build your own cross member? Seems like it's just as much work to modify and reweld the stock one. Gives you more freedom where to put the control/toe arms which allows you to run any full knuckle from a strut car you want that already has stronger hubs, bigger brakes, more aftermarket etc.
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
Nice Mr Zeelie, you clearly have the resources to pull this off properly.

a few questions

1. Why forced induction and not NA? What are your power goals?

2. why turbo and not supercharge like the Evora?

I need more power than just NA and am aiming for 400-450 kw atw. I already purchased a supercharger but it will not work as their is not enough clearance for a crank pulley and the dry sump oil pump. To make modifications to make all this work is less attractive than a turbo, especially the latest turbos which has less lag than the older ones.
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
Would it be any easier to just build your own cross member? Seems like it's just as much work to modify and reweld the stock one. Gives you more freedom where to put the control/toe arms which allows you to run any full knuckle from a strut car you want that already has stronger hubs, bigger brakes, more aftermarket etc.
We contemplated it but it is easier to leave the mounting points of the OE cross member where it is and to simply lift it 50mm. It was not a big job (I expect much bigger issues along the way). Also the MR2 suspension works well and I do not want to tamper with it too much. But you have a good point and who knows, we may end up doing what you propose.
 
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