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Good pics for sure. Have thought along these lines myself. One thing to consider though is because of the fact its a v6 conversion, you dont want to put too much extra extra weight rearward, (intercooler at the very rear). The high mounted, roof mounted options also raise the center of gravity. The options are limited I know. I look forward to seeing what you come up with.
 
Discussion starter · #43 ·
This is the way I'm going, I'd like the simplicity and weight savings of an a2a, but I don't see a way to get a good volume of air to it in the engine bay. In case you change your mind OP, the 3.5" frozen boost heat exchanger, plus fans fit behind the front bumper (barely) with a/c and core support tie bar removed.
Would this not increase lag due to the extra volume of the system from rear to front to rear?
 
Discussion starter · #44 ·
This is sort off what I have in mind with the MR2. Roof scoop and ducting into the roof and out of the roof just above the rear ring beam, over the engine and into the IC. I also plan to make a gap for additional air in the engine bay just behind the ring beam as in this pic



The rule of thumb I gather is that the intake size must not be smaller than 25% of the IC. The IC I ordered is 600mm x 280mm and I reckon I should make it to just above 25%. I will need to make the roof scoop much bigger than the one in the Toy Story pic, probably like my Lotus's scoop starting from the front of the roof etc.

But I did not make up my mind as yet as we need to play with some ideas. As example we will take some flat sheet material and see what the car would look like if the roof at the back as a more gradual slope, and thereby making a gap behind the ring beam. If it works we will make a plug/mould/product using some of my Lotus Exige moulds.
 
Would this not increase lag due to the extra volume of the system from rear to front to rear?

What extra volume? Low air volume is one of the upsides of A2W. The air volume will be smaller than an equivalent-ish rear mount air to air with that water to air setup pictured. Downsides are the extra complexity and weight (I run A2W on my car, so clearly I see it as a better in some circumstances).
 
I purchased MWR's upgrade hubs and made a mistake as you need to add upgraded SRT Neon cv's which are not available here and too expensive to import. I plan to get Camry V6 hubs too see if they can fit and to visit a local drag style super strong cv and shaft specialist. They sorted me out in the past and recently assisted a fellow friend and racer's mk11 MR2 making 390kw atw who regularly broke his turbo cv's and shafts.
I've never heard of a case of the turbo axle breaking. Now the cages, that's a different story. Never heard of anyone upgrading axles. I've been them on ebay and I always wonder who actually buys them at those prices. Like here, really? http://www.ebay.com/itm/Driveshaft-...Parts_Accessories&hash=item483b989f1e&vxp=mtr
 
Discussion starter · #51 ·
I've never heard of a case of the turbo axle breaking. Now the cages, that's a different story. Never heard of anyone upgrading axles. I've been them on ebay and I always wonder who actually buys them at those prices. Like here, really? http://www.ebay.com/itm/Driveshaft-...Parts_Accessories&hash=item483b989f1e&vxp=mtr
I am not sure what exactly you mean as the main problem is the size of splined shaft going through the hub. It is too small and breaks easily. The turbo axle does not fit the standard hub so modifications are required. As far as I could gather the turbo axle and Camry V6 is similar.

At this stage I am considering one of the following:
1 - use Camry v6 hub with Xtrail bearing and machine the upright out 2mm to fit. I then convert front and rear to 5x114 pcd.

2 - machine a hub from special material using the Camry v6 as model and make od of the hub 3 mm smaller. Then stay with 4x100 pcd all round.

3 - machine original Camry v6 hub od down by 3mm. This is not likely to happen as I do not trust the strength of the hub of 5mm wall thickness in standard materials.

4 - use standard hub with upgraded axles = not really an option as it will break.

5 - use MWR hubs with aftermarket axles. Not a viable option for various reasons.
 
I see what you are saying about the outer cv joint being the weakest at those 2gr power level. I have the v6 or st185 outer with 26 spline.

It depends on the outer cv joint you are using (more like which wheel bearing you want to use for the rear). Here is a plan I have for my 5x114 bbk. This is not cost effective either way.

I would:

1. Make a wheel hub for the rear for 5x114 w/ bbk, wilwood caliper w/ ebrake, better wheel selection
1a. Use the spyder wheel bearing and machine a wheel hub to fit
1aa. This is due to the abs sensor, as I know it, the abs works fairly well on the track unlike the sw20, some folks take out the abs fuse at the track on the sw20
1aaa. Note: I have seen the rear knuckle (w/e you call it, the whole hub) machined to accept a sw20 wheel bearing, sw20 wheel hub, and spacer for abs, using the toyota 30 spline outer cv joint aka turbo outer. BBK is built around this.
1bbb. To keep the ebrake, use the wilwood caliper w/ ebrake. As far as I know, no other toyota use the spyder ebrake from looking at the camry, rav4, avalon, fj cruiser and tundra.
1ccc. Keep the spyder rear caliper, make a two piece rotor to fit. Keep in mind that I have seen no aftermarket rotors with a .63" thickness. This would automatic be out of the picture.

2. Front, wilwood caliper 6 pot, make a new knuckle to accept a camry rear wheel bearing, 5x114. The sensor looks the same thus far. Build your bbk around this. I have seen many online examples from the 240sx. Up to the imaginations.
2a. There may be an easier way to install a 5x100 setup but it would be a waste of time.
2b. There have been twice I have seen the toyota knuckle broke from changing wheel bearing. They are strong but unbreakable they are not.
Hope this help you in your decision.

I am not sure what exactly you mean as the main problem is the size of splined shaft going through the hub. It is too small and breaks easily. The turbo axle does not fit the standard hub so modifications are required. As far as I could gather the turbo axle and Camry V6 is similar.

At this stage I am considering one of the following:
1 - use Camry v6 hub with Xtrail bearing and machine the upright out 2mm to fit. I then convert front and rear to 5x114 pcd.

2 - machine a hub from special material using the Camry v6 as model and make od of the hub 3 mm smaller. Then stay with 4x100 pcd all round.

3 - machine original Camry v6 hub od down by 3mm. This is not likely to happen as I do not trust the strength of the hub of 5mm wall thickness in standard materials.

4 - use standard hub with upgraded axles = not really an option as it will break.

5 - use MWR hubs with aftermarket axles. Not a viable option for various reasons.
 
Discussion starter · #54 ·
I also built a 2GR into my Lotus Exige and are experiencing some issues with oil pressure and the transmission. The process helps me to learn more about the 2GR which knowledge would be used with the MR2 project. This is taking all our time and accordingly sent the MR2 to a professional race car building company to do some of the work. It is progressing slowly but surely.

The following is done:
- Turbo intake
- All turbo pipes and other installations including Borg Warner turbo
- intercooler is placed just above the engine and will get cool air from the roof
- currently busy finalizing the lowered suspension (lowering it by 50mm on all 8 mounting points)
- car is completely stripped and sand blasted
- extra strength adjustable tower tops made of Docol welded in
- Chrome moly roll cage installed
- brake bias plate welded in and brakes are being manufactured for me by a local company (Vari brakes)
- Koni suspension manufactured for me by the local agent (although the mounting ears were made incorrectly but we will fix that)
- APR body kit moulds made as well as lighter product from epoxy
- Own product made for front bonnet
- Hubs added for the rear - I used Camry V6 fronts to fit in the rear
- larger radiator mountings done
- Carbon seats fitted
- AP carbon/carbon 5.5" clutch ready to install

Still to do:

- Transmission being built for me (full sequential with internal drum from a E153 box). We currently have a dog and straight cut E153 box in the Lotus which is giving us a few issues but will hopefully be resolved soon. But decided to go full sequential from hereon.
- Mounting points for rear wing
- Extra body parts like doors and rear engine cover also currently being done from epoxy material for weight reduction
- Powder coating of chassis complete with roll cage
- Engine being built to take turbo boost (2GR-FE with lower compression pistons, rods, etc)
- Wheels
- Wrapping of bodywork
- Etc

Will add Motec M130 with traction control, Launch control, etc. Also to add Motec wiring system and Motec dash. The latter to run power steering and many other features.

We hope to make 750 bhp atw and to weigh not much more than 1,000kg. This should place me in a good position to race in our Extreme series with other GT cars like Lambo, Ferrari, BMW, Porsche, etc.
 
That picture is perfect. It added the extra dimension I needed to make sense of the other picture.

I am surprised how little substance there is to that cross member under the fire wall. I thought it would be beefier.

Why two firewalls? Has previous experience highlighted the importance of a barrier between engine and driver?
 
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