[lexus005]

So Toyota recommends 5w30. Lotus I believe is 5w20. On a MWR invoice I seen 10w30. So which one is best for a DD (not driven in winter)?
Thanks in advance.

 

[RoosterRoadster]

Not driven in winter as a dd, I would go with 5W30. The 20 helps with flow to the cylinder when starting in winter but it always felt a little too thin for my taste.. er.. touch.

 

[silverbullet]

In SA the choice is castol maganatec 15W40 and if you got expensive taste and drive your car hard its Mobil 1 0W40 fully syth.

The oil toyota uses in them over here is 15W40, but then its the same oil they use in all of their cars when they service, and the 2zz is just another regular engine to them.

I will be using magnatec first then switch over to mobil one on my crate motor.

We dont have that cold winters, coldest it gets in certain areas like -2, no snow

 

[qmtran]

Any of the above grade is fine if you do not get cold temp. The first number just tells you how thin the oil is when the oil is cold. Lower the number the easier it's on your engine on cold start up. Second number lets you know basically how hot/abused the oil can take. I run 5w30 in the pacific northwest all year even on track days.

 

[Die$eL]

My mac told me that we should use fully synthetic. Apparently he has seen a few of the ZZ motors with seized/malfunctioning cam gears due to sludge build up from not using a thin enough oil

I've been using the Castrol Magnatec all along. will be swopping to the Mobil 1 soon

 

[ThangCu35]

0w-30 is the way to go. You may get a bit better mileage with 20, but 30 is safer if you drive it hard.

 

[2zzmr2]

http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/engine-oil-analysis/

 

[sanbaifo]

I like to run German Castrol. It is 0w-30. It is said to be somewhat heavy for a 30 so it covers a good range.

 

[carlbecker]

I think you will find sludge build up due more to not changing the oil often enough. Oil breaks down over time. Changing gives a fresh start. From what I understand the greater the range of multi weight the quicker it will break down. I like to change types from cold to hot for daily driving, 5w ?? winter, 10w 30 the hottest 6 months.

 

[T-bone]

000000000

 

[dev]

So Toyota recommends 5w30. Lotus I believe is 5w20. On a MWR invoice I seen 10w30. So which one is best for a DD (not driven in winter)?
Thanks in advance.

I believe Lotus recommends from their testing 5W40 with the 2zz .

Toyota recommends 5w-30 and I think that has a lot to do with energy conservation.

I have noticed evaporation losses with thin 5W-30 and when I moved up to the German Castrol which is a thick 0W-30 it was in check and now using the Lubro Moly 5W-40 it does not eat any oil and it's just right for performance driving however it is not energy conserving.

There is no good reason to use a 10w or 15w oil anymore as the oil industry has much better stability with the polymers that the oil does not break down like it use to. The only reason why they make a 10w oil is for the blind that read owners manuals and eventually this grade will be phased out in favor of all oils being 0W.

 

[dev]

NOPE
extended changes have advantages of time, money and most importantly you are introducing less contaminants into the car as you are not opening it up for 4-6 changes a year.

I don't think it's so much that there is less contaminants from changing the oil as much as fresh oil changes can wear down the engine more then extended oil changes. Once the oil gets into a groove after about 3k miles then it should create less wear for the rest of the oil change interval.

 

[kortik]

I use Castrol Edge Titanium 5W30 from Wallmart 5Qrt for $24 + local tax
affordable and IMO great oil for 2zz easily availbale.

I would use Castrol German 0w30 if it was easily available but its hard to find.

I have a turbo 2zz and with Edge Titanium I change it ever 5K miles.

 

[carlbecker]

NOPE

depends on the oil. Many here (1zz &2zz) Casrtol european formula, made in germany, 0W30 (GC). It is now called Edge SPT and it is an A3 rated oil - the highest standard for a DD.

Using blackstone labs and some oil pulls in my 1zz 4 qts of this stuff at 10,000 miles is just starting to loose its additive mix due to breakdown. This result was had 3 times so I am on an 8-10k/1 year interval.

Oils are different you need to test them to determine what each oil can do. at $9/qt GC is pricey but it is worth it to me it goes in my Mini too (which the computer holds as a 15K interval)

extended changes have advantages of time, money and most importantly you are introducing less contaminants into the car as you are not opening it up for 4-6 changes a year.

do not discount quickly what the manual says because I feel this information was in fact researched but that recommend oil, which may work well may not be optimal. Totoyta dealers use castrol GTX -a fine oil with the right interval but GC is better your engine will run quieter and with a regular change of your PCV valve at 30-50K intervals you will get no sludge.

You have to be willing to try something new trust people here BUT validate results with testing to know for sure if you are doing better or worse than OEM choice.

WE WILL JUST HAVE TO DISAGREE a little bit

My testing is from seeing the insides of engines on poorly maintained vehicles. Maybe just cheap oil.


I use a clean funnel for filling and keep the cap out of dirt. On every other engine I have worked on the oil gets pumped then filtered before it sees journals, rings etc. I don't see it different in the manual for the 1zz but I have not torn down a 1zz.

Just more than one way to skin a cat. Good oil/filter often or better oil less often, do good maintenance. You may also consider adding some breakin oil with zinc to your oil changes.

 

[2zzmr2]

I think my oil analysis proved that you can go more miles on today's sophisticated oils. The expensive additives keep the oil going strong longer and prevent brake down. I'm not sure the same can be said about non synthetic oil but I'm sure something like Pennzoil yellow bottle would do 4k miles no problem on a working car.

I would stick to 5w-30 since Toyota designed the engine around this weight oil, 30 being the important part. I use 0w since I drive to work in the early frigid mornings and like to have the oil rings lubricated as quickly as possible since cold starting the engine is when most damage is done.

http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/motor-oil-101/

Just more than one way to skin a cat. Good oil/filter often or better oil less often, do good maintenance. You may also consider adding some breakin oil with zinc to your oil changes.

I wonder how generic oil performs such as autozone oil but I'm too scared to try..

I have a turbo 2zz and with Edge Titanium I change it ever 5K miles.

Please keep an oil analysis of this oil I'm confused as to why GC is better than usa made Castrol.

 

[carlbecker]

Well the dealership I purchased the spyder from offers free oil changes. In my lifetime I have usually got what I paid for. I am not up for testing recycled oil and cheap filters. I don't go for the real expensive either. I consider oil change money well spent and good insurance changed often. Funny that I very rarely if ever buy extended warranties either.

I have never heard of oil getting into a groove after 3k miles. I would be worried about those 3000 miles before it grooved. I drive hard after the engine has warmed up well not before. I would be just as concerned about rod journals as rings, maybe more so as a thrown rod means stopped where a scored cylinder wall will get you home if you keep the oil level proper. I have nursed a few cars unfortunately.

I am almost interested in spending $25 for an oil test but that is 4qts + OEM filter and an ounce or two of Redline break in if so inclined. Even more interested in different testing companies results with the same used oil.

I am much more of a show me person rather than a bleeding edge new.

Regardless, maintain well and drive happy with the grin.

 

[dev]

I would stick to 5w-30 since Toyota designed the engine around this weight oil, 30 being the important part. I use 0w since I drive to work in the early frigid mornings and like to have the oil rings lubricated as quickly as possible since cold starting the engine is when most damage is done.

Two points here I would like to address, Toyota recommends 5W-30 oil for a good reason and none of them is for performance. These engines were meant to be daily driven and not subjected to severe use and to top it all off, Toyota is concerned with meeting CAFE standards for economy not for the performance of your engine. If you drive your car well within the oil temp limits then 5W-30 will serve you well. Lotus on the other hand has tested the 2ZZ in more extreme conditions and have found that a 5W-40 is the recommended oil and they don't care about energy conserving. A comfortable medium is the GC because it sits at a thick 30wt oil.

I'm confused as to why GC is better than usa made Castrol.

There should be no confusion, GC is better then your Redline. Redline is a good oil however it has not proven to be better then GC on oil analysis. So why should that matter, well it's very simple and that's because you are wasting your money when GC is just as expensive as most of the synthetic oil off the shelf. Bottom line is it's good value and great oil and that is why most car enthusiast forums like this one have been recommended the piss out of it for many years.

 

[dev]

I am much more of a show me person rather than a bleeding edge new.

I'm also a show me person and a lot of what you say is old tech as the oil industry is ever evolving.
Filter media and the oil is much better then before and they have studies to prove this however we are not talking about just any engine oil as it must be certified to do so.
If you can extend your oil change frequency then it actually becomes great value to the consumer.

The reason why GC is tossed around here is mainly because it has been the show me oil on this forum with a great deal of oil analysis to back it up and not just on this forum but on many others.
The bottom line is GC is available off the shelf at the same cost as the other synthetics and you don't need to add any additives as it has one of the best propriatary oil additives from Japan which they don't hype.

 

[carlbecker]

Dev, old school is being polite. Personally I would describe myself as being stubborn and blunt to the point of being politically incorrect at times. Failing at perfection, sometimes not crossing my T's or dotting my i's. Not always being polite and considerate but trying to listen (years of experience helps some). Not always clear on the point trying to be made, sometimes it is on the top of my head. In other words picky, average but resourceful.

I don't have a problem with what type of oil is used, only that it is changed at the proper intervals determined by environment and type of driving with a good filter. Syn has been around for as long as I can remember and has worked well for many owners. I like to check on things while changing oil. What works for me yesterday, last week, last year is what I do and has worked up to 300k and counting of very hard driving so this old dog is not inclined to change. I still listen to records using DIY tube amplification and speakers designed in 1957. Camera has changed from med format to full frame digital though as the darkroom is much easier on the computer with results good enough.

Since I last really worked on cars professionally has been 20 years. I do keep in close touch with my old shop though and have extreme trust with the people I know. I am very happy that progress over the years has enabled plugs, T belts, clutches, etc to be much improved. I would certainly expect oil and filters to have progressed as well, both syn and "reg".

Still I am interested in the meaning of oil getting in a groove at 3,000 miles.

I just may have to spend $25 for test results.

Car forums are certainly different than the other forums I am a member of.

 

[kortik]

I have 2000miles to go until my oil change

I'll send the oil sample to http://www.blackstone-labs.com/
cuase I haven't done testing on Castrol Edge Titanium that is available at Walmart here is my thread on oil at
http://www.newcelica.org/forums/showthread.php?t=298842&page=3


here is my oil analysys the last one is Castrol Edge not the Titanium 5w30 and the previous oil analysis were with Amsoil 0w30