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Maybe dirty MAF? What are you using to check codes and fuel trims? I'm not able to use a cheap scanner or torque pro with my JDM ecu.
 

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Watched your clip and it actually sounds pretty good to me. Are you sure the jerking isn’t a traction issue?
Look at the tach, he’s got a definite rpm issue when hitting lift. The rpms quickly drop then rise again. You can hear the car doesn’t rev through to lift smoothly as well. It does go into lift but something is wrong right at the engagement point

I thought about the clutch as well, however I would think if the clutch was slipping the rpms would rise from the slipping and then fall back down instead of doing the opposite when lift engages
 

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Previously posted to FB but would like some help wherever I can get it.

I can’t get into lift properly. I rev up to lift and the car jerks violently but doesn’t redline when Lift kicks in. It will rev up to 8200 but very roughly. My Bolts are new, oil screen is new, new fuel injectors, spark plugs, ign coils. I have a secondhand lift solenoid which worked on a old motor and installed that at the oil control cover. I’ve done a reading on my fuel trims and they seem to be OK at warm idle

When I drive, the car seems to blow off pressure when I let off gas (audible). After driving, I found an oil leak at the oil control valve housing that dripped on my transmission so I’ve ordered a gasket.

Any other recommendations?
I really don't know what you mean by blow-off. If you have an aftermarket CAI, you will hear the throttle hissing sound and it will be loudest when you lift off the throttle at high rpm.

Dave
 

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Because of none CEL code appear, it's seem to be a mechanic issue where none electric sensor is.
Your video link (full throtle in 1st gear) show a MR-S 2ZZ not as fast as it should be. Something restrict the engine's power.
Plus, we can hear regular "knocking" sound at the 3 first secondes. Is it normal to you?

Did you checked the knock sensor? By experience, a knock sensor can do this thing while no showing CEL.
At first, you will no really feel any droping power until one day when the knock sensor drastically limiting engine's performance.
But before power dropping, you will notice higher SP95/98 consumption.

It's only by ear, but we can hear the cai sucking air between 4~5k rpm. After that rpm, it's like engine was sucking less air or not enough.
If you feel the engine pulling without consistance, that maybe mean that the engine run in lean condition.

To me, it's not slipping clutch. Slipping clutch is the reverse effect.
You want to accelerate but the car want to stay at the same place.
 

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not really much of a help here cause im new as well but ive seen a youtuber with the same problem but his was turboed. the youtuber is Mitch Dore. also thats insane how it sounds like a bf valve. i had a simmilar issue but a lot fainter. didnt have the rev problems though
 

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Funnyman makes a good point about knock. It is possible that right after going into lift, the engine is detecting knock, which causes the timing to retard. If it is severe-enough knock, it could retard the timing so much that you feel the loss of power or even a misfire. Do you have a tank full of fresh high-octane gas? Also, if you valve lash is too high, the knock system can read the excessive valvetrain noise as knock. You might want to recheck your valve clearances.
 

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Discussion Starter #31
Sorry I haven't been responding. Been trying to work things out slowly. Some more information that might be helpful:
  1. I had a second 2zz motor and swapped it in. The only components I reused from old motor to new are the OCV** cover (including lift solenoid), fuel injectors, and coil packs. The issue was exactly the same from the old motor to new motor. Therefore I would lean towards ruling out knock being the issue.
  2. Since posting this thread, I
    1. Replaced the OCV cover gasket
    2. Found a loose wire for my lift solenoid so I rewired with a new connector
    3. Took the solenoid off my old motor (intake side) and installed into OCV (still need to test solenoid)
  3. For fuel:
    1. Replaced the fuel filter (strainer),
    2. New fuel injectors
    3. OBD reader reads healthy fuel trims but have yet to test under load
**If i'm correct, this unit is oil control valve cover?
78523
 

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Again, it seems that lift is working, and that your issue is something else causing the rough running and surging (the engine would limit itself to 7100 and flash a CEL if it tries to go in lift and won’t. Did you try using an extra connector on the lift solenoid and short it to ground and +12v with engine idling? That should engage the big cam which will stalk the engine and confirm lift is working.
 

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Discussion Starter #34
Lift solenoid is responsive and I even changed it out and issue still persists. I'm not sure if I mentioned a slight oil leak coming from the OCV cover. Even with a new gasket and cleaned surface, there is still a small leak coming from the bottom of the cover. Running out of ideas and getting increasingly frustrated with this car..
 

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Ok so definitely not a lift issue. I’d do a compression and leak down test on the engine to make sure it’s healthy.
 

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Discussion Starter #36
Compression check was about 190 consistent. This is also a new motor with same issue. I think it’s unlikely to be a motor-side issue.
 

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You are either experiencing a fuel/air problem after lift or a spark timing problem. Check your valve clearances!
 

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Discussion Starter #38
Are there any cases where a bad alternator could possibly be the culprit? My alternator decided it was time to go this morning. Voltage reading from the new battery was 12.7v a few weeks back when tested. Maybe the alternator was starting to go bad and could not deliver enough power to the lift solenoid? Please note that I have no experience with electricals and know nothing about how it works.
 

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It is always a good idea to fix the things that you know about. Theoretically, the battery should be able to run the car. However, if your alternator has died, it is possible that your battery is dead also.
 

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It’s not the lift system. You tested it. It’s working. The ecm can actuate it. The sooner you stop hyper focusing on what isn’t the problem, the sooner you will find the actual issue.
 
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