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Discussion Starter #1
I just finished installing a 2ZZ engine and 6speed trans last weekend and now it's misfiring on cylinder 2.

I tried swapping both the coil and injector to no avail. Still getting the problem so I ran compression test on it. I'm getting no more than 160 per cylinder but am unsure if this is related to my own stupidity and cheap compression tester. I am beyond frustrated and feel like rolling the damn the thing into the driveway and setting in on fire.

I seem to have an exhaust leak where the header attached to the cat, I need to fix that (No point really if I have to pull the damn engine) but couldn't help but wonder if that might cause an issue.

If anyone has any thoughts besides "STHU and stop whining" I could sure use them.

We had scheduled a mechanic come help us install it Sat morning so I busted my ass all week getting everything ready and swapping everything from the old engine. Between that and work I was getting like 5 hours sleep a night so I was already a little crazy. Finally Sat morn this guy never shows up and when I call him he says he "forgot". I hate people. So anyway the wife and I did it ourselves. I spent most of the day Sat coming to the conclusion that there is no way in hell you can lift the engine into the car from above and finally ended up lowering the car onto it on Sun. Sorry to bitch, just exhausted, tired and frustrated. Here are some pics for your amusement.



Here is the wife (She said I can use the pic but nobody better make any Jay and silent Bob jokes, it was cold out there)


I have a lot of random pics up there but I was trying to make sure I had reference photos to go back to when needed. Turns out I didn't need most of them.
 

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First off calm down, 2zz issues after an install is the norm not the exception.
In retrospect you shouldn't have rushed this job until you have researched how others have installed the 2zz. There is a great deal of documentation to follow.

In regard to your cylinder misfire, swapping the coil was a good idea. You have to keep in mind that there are three events that must happen not to have a misfire and that is fuel, air and spark. What I would do now is;

1. Replace the spark plug with a different one.
2. Switch the injector with another one to see if it is clogged. It is not uncommon to have a clogged injector for an engine that has been sitting for a long time.

3. Check all of the vacuum hoses for any leaks.

What kind of air intake are you using?

BTW I had a lot of issues that were very similar and some of them worked them self's out so keep resting the code and you may actually find a few more to go with that misfire. Some will remain and must be addressed.
 

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Yes it does sound like you were trying to do a Land Speed Record for this..

I'll toss my hat in the ring for an Intake leak.. But first do the Plug and Injector Again.. and CHECK THE INJECTOR SEAL AT THE HEAD .. can be an Issue..

My Favorite way to check for intake leaks, is to use Spray Brake Cleaner with the Snout.. Spray the Cleaner through the Snout, at the Intake/Head/Injector Seams, with the Engine Running.. if it starts running different, you have a Leak..

DID YOU SWAP THE TPS WIRES??.. What did you do for the Wiring Change.. Swap Harness, Cut and Solder?..

A poster to this Forum, tried to do the Swap over a Long Four Day weekend.. think it took 3+ Weeks .. would not have been bad, except he was a Few Thousand Miles away from Home!..

So you getting it all set and Running over the Weekend.. is REALLY good..

And Yes, the Engine goes in and Out the Bottom..

Cap
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Thank you for the ideas, It could be a vacuum issue, While I did swap the injector, I didn't swap the seal/seat. And the vacuum lines are a mess. I was just trying to get it started to verify it worked as I only had two days left to send it back if it didn't run.

It wasn't really all that fast...I already had taken the 1zz out and was transferring stuff over. Sat I was trying to lift the engine into the car, not drop it into the car...the problem was when it was about two inches away from the engine mounts the straps holding it would hit the car body and move the engine toward the back of the car and though I tried like hell I wasn't strong enough to lift and push it far enough to line up with the mounts. Finally I put it on top of moving dollies along with the pallet and was able to lower the car and adjust engine as needed to get it to line up right.

I'm using the stock intake from the 1zz, I'm waiting for an intake from another member and it's all I have at the moment. I thought it would throw a code but figured it would be something obvious.

Cap, Yes, Sir, LOL...was one of the first things I did was swap the TPS wires. The two bottom wires as it sits on the intake, correct?

Dev, thanks, you're right, I need to calm down and I trust your judgment....I've just put so much work and money in this so far, if the engine is bad I'm really screwed. I'm having nightmares about head gaskets. Deep breaths, LOL. Believe it or not I have spent weeks researching this doing just about nothing but. The biggest job I've done on a car before has been replacing an alternator so I have a LOT to learn.

Here is a video of the engine running and the exhaust, the seller asked for a compression test when I explained the issue.





Oh, I used a MWR swap harness. I'll pick up some brake cleaner in the morning after work and give that a shot.
 

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It is hard to tell from the first video and I don't want to go on sound alone but do you feel that the engine is running smooth or does it sound rough as if only three cylinders are firing.

What motor did this 2zz come from ?

In regard to the 1zz intake, it will cause the engine to run rich and an exhaust leak can cause a incorrect reading from the 02 sensor.

You have variables that need to be addressed and if you are showing consistent readings with a compression tester between the cylinders then it is a good sign that the engine is probably ok at this point and now you need to do the process of elimination to solve your misfire code.
 

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You can run with the Spyder Intake.. Need to get the Air Box Top off, and inside the 'Air Tube' that is mounted to the Air Box Top ( Before the MAF ) you will see a Set of 'Vanes'.. these vanes can be pulled by Removing the Air Horn inside ( I had to Grind the Little Tab ) and pull the Horn up and out of the Top.. then pull the Vanes back out of the Tube ( They will just Slide ) and put the Air Horn back with a Dab of Silicone Gaskett Goo..

After you get it running properly, check the Long Term Fuel Trim ( you will now only have One ).. and see where it's at.. Want to be + or - 5..


150 ish is a little Low.. should be +200.. But the Best Indicator is the Variation between the Cylinders.. Do a Compression Check on all four Cylinders, and post the Numbers.. After you have driven it a little, to get the Rust off the Cylinders.. Check the Compression with the Throttle Open all the Way.. and the Injector leads pulled..

Cap
 

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I'm having a similar issue with my fresh swap also. (finished it in 16 hours) :lol:

Cap- this is the source of my pm to you, thanks for the quick response :)

P0300 random misfire
P0304 Cylinder 4 misfire

00' Celica 2ZZ and ECU
06' Exige injectors (dark blue 330cc w/ 5k miles on them)
Spyder inlet tube/K&N Short Ram
225psi compression on all cylinders
No vacuum leaks
Swapped coils and plugs

The only thing I came across was the TSB from Toyota on the early cars having misfire issues and to swap the ECU to a new part number and new (brown from original yellow) injectors.

I'm stumped and thinking about picking up a newer part number ecu just to test?
 

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The TSB has to do with a Missfire Issue that is not really there..

The Likely Scenario is the the Speed Check routines in the ECU are set too close, and in Checking the Different Speeds of the Crankshaft during the different Firing Sequences, it makes a Mistake, and tosses a Cel when it should not..

And I thought the TSB was for 300 Only.. not a Missfire related to one Cylinder.. Going from Memory here.. sometimes not a good Idea..

Cap
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Dev, it looks like this came from a 2000-2001 JDM Celica. I was told it was from a 03/04 but the lack of the air injection ports above the exhaust ports made me think otherwise.

The engine sounds a little rough, like it's missing. You can tell something isn't right. I got about the same compression reading on the other two cylinders so yes, it does look consistent. It is a 20 dollar compression tester so maybe that explains the low readings. I'll run all 4 in the morning and post up the results if I can stay awake long enough.

I'm going to have to sit down and go over the air lines again and see if I have that right, that part is a little confusing. The two ports on the bottom of the carb/intake below the TPS are both for coolant and should be capped correct? I also have the mad flashing ABS light to deal with but I'll worry about that later..I think it may be because the axles aren't torqued down all the way, I just hand tightened the bolts on there to see if the engine ran.

Cap, Thank you, I will try that with the air box. I remember seeing you mention that the stock airbox could be used in a thread somewhere and thinking I should ask you about it.

Chuck01...I have a JDM Celica ECU that came with the engine I could try, it could be interesting.
 

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Dev, it looks like this came from a 2000-2001 JDM Celica. I was told it was from a 03/04 but the lack of the air injection ports above the exhaust ports made me think otherwise.

The engine sounds a little rough, like it's missing. You can tell something isn't right. I got about the same compression reading on the other two cylinders so yes, it does look consistent. It is a 20 dollar compression tester so maybe that explains the low readings. I'll run all 4 in the morning and post up the results if I can stay awake long enough.

I'm going to have to sit down and go over the air lines again and see if I have that right, that part is a little confusing. The two ports on the bottom of the carb/intake below the TPS are both for coolant and should be capped correct? I also have the mad flashing ABS light to deal with but I'll worry about that later..I think it may be because the axles aren't torqued down all the way, I just hand tightened the bolts on there to see if the engine ran.

Cap, Thank you, I will try that with the air box. I remember seeing you mention that the stock airbox could be used in a thread somewhere and thinking I should ask you about it.

Chuck01...I have a JDM Celica ECU that came with the engine I could try, it could be interesting.
Something tells me the JDM ECU may have issues with the swap harness. I would get a USA ECU to see what that does as far as your ABS light blinking.
 

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The JDM will just plug in and run.. Someone has done it before..

You can cap all the Vac Lines, and start from there.. It will prevent your Power Brakes.. so be carefull..

Cap
 

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Is your compression gauge calibrated for that 3 foot long hose? Every bit of that hose adds to the combustion chamber size and will lower the readings a lot. If that is an extension hose bypass the hose and attach the gauge at the connector just above the spark plug hole and watch your readings go to 210 PSI. My first guess is if the compression across the cylinders is the same you are probably OK. Standard 1zz intake worked like a champ on my car until I went PFC and changed up the intake.
 

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Penguin- If it's a plug and play operation for the JDM ecu I would give it a shot.

Cap- I'm not lucky enough for it to be an erroneous, my misfire you can hear it at idle. :(

When I did the compression test I did notice #4 plug was showing a little more rich...
 

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Chuck

Do the Leak Check with Brake Cleen.. or toss in a Cleaned set of Injectors.. then check for leaks..

Cap
 

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Cap- did the leak test, trying to source a spare set of injectors currently.
 

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When checking for 'Intake Leaks' don't forget to isolate the PCV Valve.

There is One case that I am aware of ( On the Brit Site ) of a Missfire on a 1ZZ that was due to a PCV valve problem. It rattled and did all the 'Normal' things that PCV's do, but when replaced, the Missfire went away..

You can just plug it, and Check..

Cap
 

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When checking for 'Intake Leaks' don't forget to isolate the PCV Valve.

There is One case that I am aware of ( On the Brit Site ) of a Missfire on a 1ZZ that was due to a PCV valve problem. It rattled and did all the 'Normal' things that PCV's do, but when replaced, the Missfire went away..

You can just plug it, and Check..

Cap
Single cylinder misfire issues have a veryu easy diagnostic process.

1 - label plug injector and coil. Swap the plug to 1, the injector to 2 and teh coil to 3. Then retest.

If misfire moves replace the part it followed. If it stays its mechanical, check your compresison, leakdown and valve adjustment.
 

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Discussion Starter #18 (Edited)
Stopped on the way home today, picked up brake cleaner, came home, sprayed it all over the place, no change.

Ran the compression test, I got (Starting with 1) 155, 152, 149, 148. So maybe there is a loss with the long hose. I didn't have the parts to make it shorter so I figured at least they are close to each other.

I unplugged another injector and the engine started running worse (Duh) but it got me thinking, I pulled out my electrical tester and started checking injector voltage. Turns out number 2 had no juice going to it at all! I checked where the ECU plugs into the harness, checked (As much as I could in that contorted low light position) that the pins were all okay and not pushed out of the harness and plugged it back in. Same deal. Nothing on two. So I plugged in the JDM ECU I have that came with the engine and started it up and it ran beautiful!! There was a valve tap for a few minutes but that went away and there was no check engine light. It smoked like hell for about 5 minutes then seemed to be okay. That didn't really surprise me because I'm pretty sure it had been put on it's side during shipping due to all the oil in the intake and exhaust when I got it.

I called MWR who I got the ECU from and they said I could send it back and they would test it, they said they have never had a bad ECU before and they are tested before they are shipped so I'm not sure what the deal is with that. They did say they would test it and replace if there was a misfire on No 2.

I still have the fast flashing ABS but I'll figure that out. I need to figure out how to reset it on the Spyder and may have to replace a sensor due to being to rough removing the axles....but in the big picture, that isn't a big deal.

Cap and Dev, THANK YOU. I know it may seem stupid, I know this is only a forum but I was completely exhausted, stressed out and at wits end. I really appreciate the help. I'm going to bed now but to tomorrow I get to start putting her back together, probably start with the airbox mod. :)
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Chuck01, if you come across another ECU it's worth a shot. I don't know if checking voltage on a random misfire would help but it might on four. I would check the heck out of my connections.
 

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Is your compression gauge calibrated for that 3 foot long hose? .
That is not nessasary..

The Volume of Gas that is in the hose on the First Compression Stroke, will reduce the Pressure Reading on the First Stroke. As the Piston goes to grasp another volume of air to Compress, the Check Valve that is in the Hose Fitting End, will prevent the loss of that 'Parasite Test' Volume.

The Next Compression of the Pistin, will bring the 'Parasite Test' volume pressure closer to the actual Compression Pressure.

With Each Compression Stroke of the Engine Piston, the Displayed Test Pressure wil get closer and Closer to the Actual Peak Compression Pressure the Engine is able to Produce at this speed.

That is why the Pressure will jump in ever decreasing incraments till it stops.. with the First Jump the Highest, the Second less, the third even less.. with each additional pump, giving less total pressure increase till no more increase is noticed.. that is the point when the Test is usually stopped..

Cap
 

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Stopped on the way home today, picked up brake cleaner, came home, sprayed it all over the place, no change.

Ran the compression test, I got (Starting with 1) 155, 152, 149, 148. So maybe there is a loss with the long hose. I didn't have the parts to make it shorter so I figured at least they are close to each other.

I unplugged another injector and the engine started running worse (Duh) but it got me thinking, I pulled out my electrical tester and started checking injector voltage. Turns out number 2 had no juice going to it at all! I checked where the ECU plugs into the harness, checked (As much as I could in that contorted low light position) that the pins were all okay and not pushed out of the harness and plugged it back in. Same deal. Nothing on two. So I plugged in the JDM ECU I have that came with the engine and started it up and it ran beautiful!! There was a valve tap for a few minutes but that went away and there was no check engine light. It smoked like hell for about 5 minutes then seemed to be okay. That didn't really surprise me because I'm pretty sure it had been put on it's side during shipping due to all the oil in the intake and exhaust when I got it.

I called MWR who I got the ECU from and they said I could send it back and they would test it, they said they have never had a bad ECU before and they are tested before they are shipped so I'm not sure what the deal is with that. They did say they would test it and replace if there was a misfire on No 2.

I still have the fast flashing ABS but I'll figure that out. I need to figure out how to reset it on the Spyder and may have to replace a sensor due to being to rough removing the axles....but in the big picture, that isn't a big deal.

Cap and Dev, THANK YOU. I know it may seem stupid, I know this is only a forum but I was completely exhausted, stressed out and at wits end. I really appreciate the help. I'm going to bed now but to tomorrow I get to start putting her back together, probably start with the airbox mod. :)
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Chuck01, if you come across another ECU it's worth a shot. I don't know if checking voltage on a random misfire would help but it might on four. I would check the heck out of my connections.
The ECU supplies ground to the injector to turn it on, not power. If you don't show voltage you either have an open circuit or a restriction on the power supply side. Or possibly you did the test wrong somehow.
 
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