[ISpy]

...Per forum advice, I have also checked the TPS wiring. The wires are (from top to bottom): Yellow, Blue, and Brown. I have read several articles about swapping them, but have not found a clear response for the required order, just that the two bottom need to be swapped. Would someone chime in and let me know if the order I have is correct for the Celica ECU. Or do I need to swap to Yellow, Brown, and Blue?
... The brace has nothing to do with the engine, but I want to swap to one that allows use of the frunk lid.

http://www.spyderchat.com/forums/sh.../forums/showthread.php?48301-ekoesling-2zz-Swap-Discussion-Support-thread/page3

This is a link that I have bookmarked seeing I'm planning my 2Zwap. The entire link is interesting since it hit on multiple electronic swapicks. Oddly the conclusion had nothing to do with the wiring.

And regarding the Frunk lid....Dev through KeyTechniques used to sell covers that made access easier and allowed continued use of the better strut bracing. Of course, you can do as I do...hefty.

That PFC is 1zz or 2zz?

 

[56210]

http://www.spyderchat.com/forums/sh.../forums/showthread.php?48301-ekoesling-2zz-Swap-Discussion-Support-thread/page3

This is a link that I have bookmarked seeing I'm planning my 2Zwap. The entire link is interesting since it hit on multiple electronic swapicks. Oddly the conclusion had nothing to do with the wiring.

And regarding the Frunk lid....Dev through KeyTechniques used to sell covers that made access easier and allowed continued use of the better strut bracing. Of course, you can do as I do...hefty.

That PFC is 1zz or 2zz?

PFC 2zz.

 

[dev]

http://www.spyderchat.com/forums/sh.../forums/showthread.php?48301-ekoesling-2zz-Swap-Discussion-Support-thread/page3

This is a link that I have bookmarked seeing I'm planning my 2Zwap. The entire link is interesting since it hit on multiple electronic swapicks. Oddly the conclusion had nothing to do with the wiring.

And regarding the Frunk lid....Dev through KeyTechniques used to sell covers that made access easier and allowed continued use of the better strut bracing. Of course, you can do as I do...hefty.

That PFC is 1zz or 2zz?

It seems like you are doing all the right research for you swap. Kudos.

 

[dev]

Per forum advice, I have also checked the TPS wiring. The wires are (from top to bottom): Yellow, Blue, and Brown. I have read several articles about swapping them, but have not found a clear response for the required order, just that the two bottom need to be swapped. Would someone chime in and let me know if the order I have is correct for the Celica ECU. Or do I need to swap to Yellow, Brown, and Blue?

Thanks again.

Did you happen to see the video I posted.

 

[56210]

Did you happen to see the video I posted.

Yes I did. I watched it a few times. Thank you for that. But, he says, "That's how I did it." So, I didn't know if the order shown is already completed or not.

 

[MerryFrankster]

I'm glad you were able to persist and resolve the issues. Good job.

TPS wiring was explained a long long time ago - 2006 - and has not changed in the intervening years. You gotta work on your search skills:

Brown is ground - doesn't go to the ECU
Blue/red stripe is VC, goes to the ECU
Yellow/green stripe is VTA, goes to the ECU.

Swapping VC and Ground will reverse the polarity, but with the ground not going to the ECU it has to happen at the plug. Hopefully this will help any other 'but why' type of people who wonder about this in the future.

How do you know if it was done correctly? Plug in your OBD2 scantool, turn the ignition to on, view the TPS variable in scantool. Move the gas pedal. The TPS should range from something like 10% at zero throttle to 90% at full throttle. If not, problem.

 

[56210]

UPDATE: After wiring up the VVLI bits with the MWR harness, changing plugs, and the intake, I started the car was saw no CEL light. After 1/4 of a mile, the CEL illuminated. It's the knock sensor again. I removed the started and examined the wiring. There was a ground wire spliced into the single wire running to the ECU. To trouble shoot, I disconnected and rewired the sensor to the ECU. Again, after 1/4 mile CEL for Knock. Should I bite the bullet and replace the sensor, or is there something that I am missing? BGB says that it could also be the ECU, but I would assume that (based on the god awful wiring in the car and that the engine only has 50,000 miles on it) it's unlikely.

Also, I looked at the TPS wiring again as the car was idling steadily at 2000 rpms. I swapped the wires and confirmed through the TPS feature on OBDII. Once I swapped the wires, the idle dropped to about 1100 when warm, but now the car (while in neutral coasting to stops), surges from 800 to 1500 before settling again at 1100.

Thoughts?

 

[rstarkmi]

The new surging idle could be a couple of things.

You could have a bubble in your coolant. Good to check this first by burping the system. This worked on mine the first time I ran into this issue.

Second is that it could be your IAC (Idle Air Control Valve) which is on the bottom of your throttle body. I just swapped this out on mine and while it is tough to get to because it is on the back of the engine next to the fire wall it is not a bad job. This took care of my problem that resurfaced recently.

I need a Power FC for a 2zz so when you are ready to sell let me know.

 

[markthegrea]

UPDATE: After wiring up the VVLI bits with the MWR harness, changing plugs, and the intake, I started the car was saw no CEL light. After 1/4 of a mile, the CEL illuminated. It's the knock sensor again. I removed the started and examined the wiring. There was a ground wire spliced into the single wire running to the ECU. To trouble shoot, I disconnected and rewired the sensor to the ECU. Again, after 1/4 mile CEL for Knock. Should I bite the bullet and replace the sensor, or is there something that I am missing? BGB says that it could also be the ECU, but I would assume that (based on the god awful wiring in the car and that the engine only has 50,000 miles on it) it's unlikely.

Also, I looked at the TPS wiring again as the car was idling steadily at 2000 rpms. I swapped the wires and confirmed through the TPS feature on OBDII. Once I swapped the wires, the idle dropped to about 1100 when warm, but now the car (while in neutral coasting to stops), surges from 800 to 1500 before settling again at 1100.

Thoughts?

I have the same problem with my car. I am still burping the coolant. I suggest burping until it is bubble free first. I have seen lots of posts pointing this direction.

Mine is surging from 2200 to 800, but I haven't adjusted my throttle cable yet. Still working on coolant.

 

[56210]

UPDATE: For anyone who has been following this, I apologize for the delay in posting. It has been a constant fight. To those who have commented and advised, I want to say thanks. In this post I want to list out the steps (successful and not) that I followed as well as the snags that were encountered along the way.

For the knock sensor issue, my research showed that there are pretty much three components in the system: the ECU, the wiring, and the knock sensor. After some thought and financial consideration, I opted to swap out the sensor first. The original had been the one-wire type, but was illuminating the CEL on the GT-S ECU and not registering a signal at all to the PFC. A 2zz sensor was ordered from MWR and installed. Torque was to spec. This had no effect on the issue (with either computer). I ordered a second ECU for testing purposes and the 1zz wiring harness from MWR. I also went ahead and ordered the swap harness to eliminate any questions in the wiring. After installing those (with a good deal of difficulty), the situation had not changed at all. The GT-S ECU still showed the CEL and the PFC read no signal. There were suggestions that the sensor was not grounding, so all grounding surfaces were cleaned and inspected. No change. Pulling the "NEW" knock sensor, I realized it did not have the DENSO stamp or any part numbers on it. I asked the folks at MWR if that was normal and explained the situation. After sending them pictures of the unmarked sensor, they agreed that it was the wrong one and shipped me a new one. Problem solved. The moral here is to check and recheck everything that is shipped to you. If it looks fishy, it probably is.

The idle issue, which was present before the knock sensor ordeal was just as frustrating. I chose to address the issues one at a time thanks to some advice from another SC member. Had I not, my car would have likely caught fire in some remote area with no cell reception! So, again, I thank all those who helped. The idle was high when cold (about 2000), responded to the AC, and dropped as the car warmed up, but would surge when coasting in neutral above 15 mph. The bounce was from 1000 to 1600 or so until below 15 mph and then would hold steady at 1500. With help from a generous SC member, I swapped the MAF for testing. No luck. I performed multiple bleeds which did show air in the system, but this did not fix it either. I replaced the gasket between the TB and IACV with a new OEM. No change. Disassembly and cleaning of the IAC showed no improvements. Throttle cable tension was checked and ok. I ordered an OEM IACV from MWR, but again, no joy. Inspection of the TB plate showed signs of light around the edges even though it passed the fluid test. I adjusted the set crew to see if it helped, but light remained even when adjusted to the point of the plate sticking. So, I ordered a replacement and installed it. Immediately upon starting, the car idled lower and a good deal smoother. The coasting surge was gone too!

The misfire and O2 codes were fixed with a quick change of plugs and a slow realization that the first O2 sensor was plugged into the wrong connector! Whoops.

The long and short of this, I think, is that when you buy a used car (especially with a swap) everything should be checked. I failed to be thorough on this. As I worked through these tasks I realized that some of the wiring was missing. Some of the wiring was wrong. And some of the wiring had been done by a graduate of the Helen Keller School of Electronics. There were several wires that had been stripped, folded and crammed (pinless) into the connectors. It was a mess. The PFC had masked many of these issues, but again, it was my fault for not knowing that the PFC does not work with the OBD and for not looking behind the cubby to see what was what.

Also, for those who remember this car being listed on SC, it was claimed to be a stroker by the original seller. Custom pistons, "Lotus" cams, upgraded injectors, flux capacitor... all of it. All of the work done thus far has revealed all that to be total BS. Everything has been stock, but not knowing that raised many variables in the diagnosing of the issues. Now, the gentleman who sold me the car did not claim any of this and even explained that he had not done the swap and wasn't sure what was inside, so absolutely no blame there. But, if you are considering picking up a 2zz swapped car, make sure you do the research that I did not do so that you do not end up reworking all the jobs you already paid for!

Thanks again for the comments and advice. And, to anyone who is going through similar issues, let me know if there is anything I can do to help.

 

[dev]

Good to hear everything has been sorted out.

 

[Cap Weir]

Thank you for the Determination to get through all of this.. and then follow up with a post so we could learn from your troubles..

The Knock Sensor was a great find on your part.. ( Beware of Counterfeits!!! )

The T-Body issue has been seen before.. And then it also was a Chase your Tail till you finally check that last part..

Again..

Thank you for the Solutions you came up with..

Cap

 

[dev]

Thank you for the Determination to get through all of this.. and then follow up with a post so we could learn from your troubles..

The Knock Sensor was a great find on your part.. ( Beware of Counterfeits!!! )

The T-Body issue has been seen before.. And then it also was a Chase your Tail till you finally check that last part..

Again..

Thank you for the Solutions you came up with..

Cap

Cap one thing that was interesting with this issue is a CEL was thrown for not being able to keep the idle in range. The fuel trims during a drive in some spots in the logs were tipping negative LTFT.
Do you happen to know if the car will pull fuel in addition to maxing out IAC position in an attempt to maintain idle?

 

[Cap Weir]

I've not seen any Idle fuel Changes other than Cold Start Idle Mixture Stuff..

I'm thinking the Idle Fuel Trim problems are related to the air leaking by the Throttle Shaft Seals..

Cap

 

[FLSpyder]

After attacking the wiring issue, i have found a wire cut and pulled from the bundle to the ECU, a plug wrapped in tape near the intake, and a sensor with no plug on the Driver side of the block (furthest back). Looks like my day just got a bit longer.

I tried to post pictures, but that doesn't seem to work, and I did check to see if the plug fit the sensor... nope.

Looks like you really DO have an MWR swap!

 

[dev]

Looks like you really DO have an MWR swap!

Just curious. What have your heard about MWR quality of workmanship. Any personal experience.

 

[FLSpyder]

Looks like you really DO have an MWR swap!

Just curious. What have your heard about MWR quality of workmanship. Any personal experience.

I've been in the ZZ community since like 05'. When serious issues come up, over and over over the years, it's not something any cognizant person can ignore.

That said they do offer a decent pfc tune and they're the only game in town besides DDRP for ZZ engines.

Newcelica protects site $ponsors.

 

[dev]

I've been in the ZZ community since like 05'. When serious issues come up, over and over over the years, it's not something any cognizant person can ignore.

That said they do offer a decent pfc tune and they're the only game in town besides DDRP for ZZ engines.

Newcelica protects site $ponsors.

The reason I asked is because it’s a bit of a touchy subject. I have ordered from them without issue except their advise on a matter was so flawed it would have landed me in trouble. They screwed up two local owners cars that I know of in the past. The reason why I asked is because when the topic was brought up it was met with strong mixed emotions in their defense. Since you are new here and are removed from past conversations on the matter I was curious to know what you know since their reputation proceeds them.

BTW as mentioned by the OP it caused him a lot of grief when they sent him the knock off part when he ordered the OEM. Probably an honest mistake.