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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
Just finished my 2zz swap and wanted to check everything was good to go before I slapped on all my turbo stuff. Good thing I did because I can’t Rev past 7k and I have no clue why.

it currently idles fine 1100 (1200?)-900rpm. I can drive it around.

Did some searching and here’s what I’ve done so far:

I checked that the ovl solenoid stalls the car when powered. It stalls

Changed crank position sensor

Went over the positioning of the wires numerous times. Ovl+\- are in the correct spot as well as the pressure sensor

I have a 2 wire knock sensor. I added the second ground wire and spliced the other knock wire with the 2 wire plug so I can run either 1 wire or the 2 wire. I switched their positions on the ecu side. Doesn’t do anything (didn’t think it would anyway)

Switched positions of the ovl solenoid (+/- ) on the ecu side. Also did nothing.

Currently I’m using an external FPR so I increased fuel pressure on that. Still no change.

Everything is hooked up as it should be with the exception of, no air filter before the maf, the gas tank pressure sensor is currently plugged in but only reading atmosphere because it’s not attached to the tank,
And the black evap solenoid is not connected to the tank.
I’m kind of all out of ideas. Anybody else think they can crack it?
 

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Quick question, is the car up to temp before you hit lift?

Stock ECU has lift requirements and will lock you out until temps are above a certain point.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Possibly? Is there a way to test aside from pulling it out? If I unplug either the solenoid or pressure switch, I get a code.

Yes I forgot to mention that I'm waiting until the engine is quite hot. I also am not just revving it in place.

Would it not throw a code if there is not enough oil pressure? Is there any way to check it is sufficient aside from plugging in my Link Xtreme. I don't have an external gauge.

I also forgot to mention I did change the lift bolts. Again, the car stalls when I activate the solenoid so I'm think it's wiring or conditions arent met. The car sits right in the middle on the temp gauge and I can see it want to overheat.
 

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Not going to echo what was said previously, however if you are up to temp and all that have you looked at your OCV's? There are 2 of them, with one being specific for variable valve lift. It contains a metal mesh strainer which may require cleaning if clogged. This will prevent lift if it is clogged as it won't allow thr proper oil pressure required for crossover to variable valve timing/lift depending on which OCV is clogged (or if both are).
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Interesting. If it was clogged, would it also prevent activation even if I triggered it manually as I did above? I'll check anyway of course.

As for the screen, when I changed to lift bolts, I had to remove a broken one from the intake shaft. It was fairly clean.

The broken piece was slightly proud of the diameter of the shaft and gouged the inner channel that the shaft sits in as I hammered the shaft out. From what I remember, it doesn't look like it would've affected it too much but I don't really know how I would check how it affected oil pressure. Maybe little bits are caught and clogging that screen. I will check

Would the vvti solenoid also affect this? I can test it with my linkecu as well, but if it does trigger then it would not be clogged would it?
 

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Interesting. If it was clogged, would it also prevent activation even if I triggered it manually as I did above? I'll check anyway of course.

As for the screen, when I changed to lift bolts, I had to remove a broken one from the intake shaft. It was fairly clean.

The broken piece was slightly proud of the diameter of the shaft and gouged the inner channel that the shaft sits in as I hammered the shaft out. From what I remember, it doesn't look like it would've affected it too much but I don't really know how I would check how it affected oil pressure. Maybe little bits are caught and clogging that screen. I will check

Would the vvti solenoid also affect this? I can test it with my linkecu as well, but if it does trigger then it would not be clogged would it?
Triggering the solenoid open (electrical diagnosis) & it physically allowing oil past to lock the changeover in cam profiles (mechanical diagnosis) are two different things. It's worth checking that the lift OCV screen is clear if you haven't already (although I would just check both while you're at it).

Also FWIW I don't know enough specifics about the knock sensors but in prior 2zz research I had seen ppl mention that different sensors gave them different results. Maybe someone with more knowledge on this can chime in on whether that is a potential issue for you.
 

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If the knock sensor is wired improperly it should cause a DTC and MIL, and the ECU will apply maximum timing retard. But who knows what your knock sensor is doing with its custom wiring, even if it is not causing a DTC.... check by logging or monitoring ignition timing advance at WOT. It should be about 25 degrees (you can view this in an app like Torque Pro). If timing is in the low teens at WOT, this means something is wrong. Flat response knock sensor (donut) requires a late series ECU with KNK+ and KNK- terminals at the ECU side. Resonant sensor works only with early series ECU with only one knock sensor terminal KNK on ECU side - these are the 0080-0083 ECU's normally used with 2zz swap in Spyder, and they match the Spyder harness having a 1-wire knock sensor. You cannot mix and match knock sensor and ECU.

You can test the oil pressure switch by removing it from the OCV housing, hook up multimeter between the connector pin and body or threads, and apply pressure with an air compressor or bicycle pump. Check for change in resistance. If the oil pressure switch is not working you will not have lift.
 

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There is a test method for the lift oil pressure switch in the TSRM for Celica GTS. It does require removal from the engine. You won't get a fault code for that pressure switch not showing enough pressure for lift.

without the engine on lift you will see 7000 RPM rev limit and no fault code. This can be from not enough temp (sounds like not your issue), OCV not working (you tested it, a dirty screen not allowing function during normal operation is a bit of a rare case), the ecm not seeing wheel speed (check this is wired properly but if I recall it is not moved for the swap, ABS module sends this signal and the cluster wouldn't show any speed if it wasn't working), or the lift pressure switch malfunctioning or there not being enough pressure to activate it (blocked port or something).

I bet it's the switch.
 

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Yes that tests the engine to make sure it is developing enough pressure to activate the switch. There is also a procedure to test the switch to make sure it activates when it sees enough oil pressure. I'd do that test first then if the switch passes, actually test the engine oil pressure at the switch port to rule out a blocked port or low oil pressure.
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
If the knock sensor is wired improperly it should cause a DTC and MIL, and the ECU will apply maximum timing retard. But who knows what your knock sensor is doing with its custom wiring, even if it is not causing a DTC.... check by logging or monitoring ignition timing advance at WOT. It should be about 25 degrees (you can view this in an app like Torque Pro). If timing is in the low teens at WOT, this means something is wrong. Flat response knock sensor (donut) requires a late series ECU with KNK+ and KNK- terminals at the ECU side.
I am using the 2002 donut style with the 2002 ecu. I should clarify, the knock + is shared with the 1 wire and 2 wire plug. The knock - is an external wire I routed back to the ecu and shielded full length. Pins 27/28, if I remember correctly, are the two I need on the 02 ecu according to the BGB. Although to be frank, (haha) I highly doubted switching the wires would change anything since it’s literally just a microphone and one of them will provided power to the 2 pin sensor plug. I did it and nothing changed but please tell me if my assumption is wrong though. I’ll definitely check those parameters

As for the tests, thank you both. I’ll try those next after the cleaning. In the event it’s that it’s not seeing enough pressure, I’d need to replace the head with a spare won’t I?
 

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If the engine isn't making good pressure there I'd check the main rifle pressure at the port on the block for the main pressure switch as per the manual. Would only be the case with bad bearing clearances etc.

If it makes good pressure at the block but not at the head, that port on the head could be blocked maybe? Would require further investigation by removing that VVL actuator 'body' from the head.
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
Well I just swapped out the whole housing with a spare and cleaned the screen. Not much debris in there.

I have yet to do either test but I still don't have lift. I'll report back when I do the two pressure tests and monitor timing
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
WOT is 86% and maximum advance was ranged from 25-30 degrees. I guess pressure testing the head is next since it still doesn't work with a different housing, solenoid and pressure sensor. Coolant got to 230, don't know if that's playing a part in it. Maybe a stock engine protection feature? My link has a feature that limits RPM based on temperature
 

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Not sure if there's a critical temp feature that disables lift but you've got bigger problem if your coolant temps are jumping that high. I'd figure that out before testing for lift as a warped block won't give you lift either, and makes for one hell of an avoidable expense.
 

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You should never see 230F. Either radiator fans are not working, or radiator has blockage, or thermostat is stuck, or pump impeller stripped, or ECT sensor is no good. ECU tries to limit the coolant temp to 200F by turning on the high-speed fans. This is for 1zz ECU, but 2zz ECU is similar. With hi-speed fans on, coolant temp normally drops like a rock.

81800
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
Must’ve been an air pocket. I purged it some more and it sits right at 200. Still hit the 7k limit. I’m out of ideas until I can get the tool to test pressure at the head
 
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