MR2 SpyderChat banner

1 - 14 of 14 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
283 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
I understand that it the headers aren't braced that eventualy the mounting bolts will break at the exhaust ports so I have been trying to figure out a way to do this. I don't have any welding skills or tools so building something is out of the question for me. I was wondering what other members have done to brace the MWR headers?

I do have both the Celica and Spyder braces...can they be made to work?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,395 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
283 Posts
Discussion Starter #5

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,895 Posts
Yeah, I almost bought that header, it's a beautiful part. I just needed the O2 bungs on there and it didn't seem that one had them.
Why would you need the O2 bung on the runners? That's not a very good design. With the swap you only use one O2, so placing it downstream to get a reading from all four cylinders makes more sense. Most folks (myself included) have it in the downpipe at the second bend.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
283 Posts
Discussion Starter #7
Why would you need the O2 bung on the runners? That's not a very good design. With the swap you only use one O2, so placing it downstream to get a reading from all four cylinders makes more sense. Most folks (myself included) have it in the downpipe at the second bend.
Don't you need two? One before the converter and one after? I don't have the means to fabricate a bung anywhere and this was the only option I could find. I'm not that knowledgeable about engines/exhaust. I just knew my 1zz was gone and needed to be replaced.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
396 Posts
you need 2 o2 sensors, one before the cat and one after the cat. I bought my header from DDP and it is a well made, hefty header.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,895 Posts
Don't you need two? One before the converter and one after? I don't have the means to fabricate a bung anywhere and this was the only option I could find. I'm not that knowledgeable about engines/exhaust. I just knew my 1zz was gone and needed to be replaced.
Not if you are using a PFC, besides I was only commenting on O2 sensors for fuel trim. Then one after the cat doesn't really do anything other than ensure the cat is operating properly.

Sorry if you don't have the means to have a bung installed, perhaps you should stay away from the 2zz swap. I think having a bung welded in would be the easiest part of everything you have ahead of you.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
283 Posts
Discussion Starter #10 (Edited)
Not if you are using a PFC, besides I was only commenting on O2 sensors for fuel trim. Then one after the cat doesn't really do anything other than ensure the cat is operating properly.

Sorry if you don't have the means to have a bung installed, perhaps you should stay away from the 2zz swap. I think having a bung welded in would be the easiest part of everything you have ahead of you.
This is a daily driver. All I wanted was a little more power in a reliable package and the 1zz was shot anyway. I'd like a PFC one day, but for now there is no point in investing in something I would need someone else to tune anyway. If you are using a stock 2ZZ ECU you need both sensors and I need my car to pass inspection.

Considering the 2ZZ is already in there and running great I hardly think I should have avoided the swap. All I need to do is properly brace the header. That and figure out what the deal is with this stinking Evap pressure sensor, but I don't think that's insurmountable. :lol:
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,895 Posts
Considering the 2ZZ is already in there and running great I hardly think I should have avoided the swap. All I need to do is properly brace the header. That and figure out what the deal is with this stinking Evap pressure sensor, but I don't think that's insurmountable. :lol:
No, what I was saying is that if you place the bung after the merge, then you are getting an AFR reading from all 4 cylinders, rather than one. So your ECU isn't adjusting off of what just one cylinder is doing.

Having a bung welded into the down pipe is a 30 sec job for anyone with a MIG. You might be able to dig it up with a search, but LR had a photo of where to place the bung at the bend in the DP. Figured it'd be worth doing since it sounds like you're going to have to remove the header to brace it anyways (which was going to require welding, which is why I was confused as to your previous statement, hence my response, though I totally forgot you already had it in and running.)
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
5,855 Posts
I don't have the means to fabricate a bung anywhere and this was the only option I could find. I'm not that knowledgeable about engines/exhaust.
Sorry if you don't have the means to have a bung installed, perhaps you should stay away from the 2zz swap. I think having a bung welded in would be the easiest part of everything you have ahead of you.
You seem to me talking past each other....

Penguin:
You don't have to fabricate a bung. They are sold ready-made by several firms such as O2Bungs.Com.
Any muffler shop can install the bung for you at minimal cost.

Just trying to be helpful...:unsure:
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
283 Posts
Discussion Starter #14
Sammy, that makes a lot of sense, the reading from all 4 would be a lot more accurate. Maybe in the future I'll do that. Had I though about it in there first place I probably would have done it with the swap, there was just so much involved in the swap itself I was momentarily overwhelmed with information. I learned a lot doing this.

OldMan, thank you for the info. That may come in handy one day. I want to keep this as legal as I can just in case I decide to move I want my options open.
 
1 - 14 of 14 Posts
Top