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Discussion Starter #1
Hi everyone,

I'm a hobby car mechanics newb and I'm trying to sort the car out myself, so if any stupid questions occur, don't flame rather teach. (there's no such thing as stupid question, but the stupid answer.)
Short introduction before tackling the problem. Bought 1zz turobed Spyder with C2 power kit in Europe (would appreciate if anyone got their contact; also kit available for sale!) 1.5 yrs ago. Stock engine with 0.65 bar pressure, piggy back fuel management, connecting rod broke. Chassis got 58.000 km and it wasn't driven a lot for last 5-6 years. Turbo kit was on the car for approximately 20.000 km.

75018


Decide to go the NA road instead and swapped 2zz inside.
2zz is from Celica '00 GTS as I was told (with JAP ecu), imported from UK, vendor S&J (I'll get back flaming at them on other tread, as I tend to be a bit more active on the site.)
2 o2 sensors connected before the CAT and 1 after (1zz MR2 O2 setup). Guy who did the swap is not Toyota expert and doesn't know a lot on 1zz, 2zz or the Spyders. Vendors told me JAP ecu only needs 1 O2 before CAT.
Car is struggling with power. Lift engagement is noticeable only by sound. I'm facing P0171 problem.
Took my car to dyno. Here are the results. These are crank numbers.
75019


Guy who dynoed the car suggested it might be the fuel pump (because the car was sitting for quite a while).
Repair manual says it might be MAF tube size (supposed to be 2.75''), MAF itself, injectors, O2 sensors and also fuel pump.

After dyno I've read a thread on O2 sensors and disconnected drivers side (car is LHD) O2 sensor. No change in power, check engine light came on reporting P0141.
Since I worked with friends OBD scanner and don't want to bother him anymore, decided to order one myself. (OBDLink LX)
As I'm waiting on that OBD, I've dropped MAF tube and measured it. (I'll give it a good clean I swear)
MAF tube is 2.57'' and silicone tube between MAF and the engine is 2.75''
75020


Could this MAF tube have such an impact on power output? Is it important for both the tube on MAF and silicone tube after it to be 2.75''?
Also please notice this Vacuum hose. Is this the proper way to seal it? I'm open to all suggestions.

Thank you all for your time and efforts to help up in advance.

Br,
IG2zzMR2.
 

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Yes MAF tube size and a clean MAF sensor are very important, the coupler between MAF and TB not so much. Stock US Celica GTS has a MAF pipe diameter of 66mm. I have used pipes between 65-70mm with success but it does take time for the ECU adjust fueling. An air straitener before the MAF sensor is also helpful, and you do not want any bends in piping within 6" of the front side of the MAF. No pic of the vacuum line you mentioned... but there should not be any open. Not looking up codes right now, what are the code descriptions? And what exhaust are you using?
 

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Welcome to Spyderchat.. sorry about your woes..
Now down to business..

1) How were the wires swapped for the ECU Change?
2) Celica ECU will only use the O2 Sensor on the Pully Side of the Engine.. not the Trans Side.
3) The MAF Tube is measured AT THE MAF POINT. any other diameter is meaningless.
4) 'Normal' MAF Housings being used have some sort of Vanes in them. Does yours?
5) Where did your MAF Housing come from
6) Use of an UN Modified Spyder MAF Housing will SEVERLY change Air Flow Calculations, and cause the ECU to Over Fuel, and Reduce Ignition Timing.. IE it's gunna be slow..

Please post what you can..

Cap
 

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The first thing to do is address the P0171. System too lean. This is typical of a vacuum leak allowing unmetered air in past the MAF (most likely cause). Can also be cause by exhaust leak, defective injector, weak fuel pressure, or exhaust leak. Correct this then you can move to other diagnostics.

PS. Looking more carefully at your photo of the MAF, the sensor is too close to the air filter. Plus that taped up nipple needs to be capped properly or it will draw air in.
 

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Also how is the exhaust built? A restrictive exhaust choking a 2ZZ swap causing it to lose a lot of power is quite common.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
First of all, thank you for very quick response and sorry for taking me so long to react. Didn't want to write anything before some actions were done.
Current status is just the same as when discussion was started.

I've done the following (it isn't much as my knowledge, resources and tooling are pretty limited):
  • cleaned the MAF
  • replaced MAF (I have 2 from blown engine)
  • changed MAF tube - cannot remember correctly but it is a bit over 2.75''. I think somewhere around 2.87''. It is pulling fresh air from the side scoop.
I think exhaust manifold is made out of combination of 1zz and 2zz. Please check pictures below.
75430


Please find below fuel trims.

1348 - cold engine
75431


885 rpm - warm engine
75432


2453 rpm - warm engine
75434


4289 rpm - warm engine
75435



Based on reported above, can we eliminate any of the problems?
What should I focus on?

Thank you very much for the efforts.
 

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Do you have more pictures of the exhaust? looks pretty small - a choked exhaust is a prime culprit for underperforming 2ZZ swaps.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Yes, please check below.
What do you mean small? Small in diameter or short in lenght?

75436



75437
 

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Diameter - yeah that is choked right down to the factory flange - super not good. And the O2 sensor is only reading one cylinder. You need to either pony up for a system like the PPE one (for 2ZZ swaps, full exhaust) or get something made locally with larger tubing.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
Diameter - yeah that is choked right down to the factory flange - super not good. And the O2 sensor is only reading one cylinder. You need to either pony up for a system like the PPE one (for 2ZZ swaps, full exhaust) or get something made locally with larger tubing.
I've compared it to my friends Corolla '05 ts facelift exhaust manifold and diameter of tubing is the same. So The problem is on flange?


What do you think if I take my friends manifold 4 to 1 from Corolla ditch the flexpipe and weld it 4 to 1? Would it make any change or should I get rid of cat aswell?

Definitely choker by that header. What exhaust are you using?
Everything after header is stock.


PPE sounds amazing by the readings on the forum, but since I'm from Croatia it is out of my budget considering taxes, customs and shipment.
 

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Yeah it's choked way down on the flange - the build of the whole thing looks sub-par and the stock exhaust just won't flow enough to make good power on a 2ZZ. The corolla manifold won't fit - the exit will be right at the crossmember. I'd get the one you have modified so it is a 4-1 with a proper collector and then at least 2.5" tubing all the way back including the cat (if you want to use one) and muffler. A good exhaust shop will be able to build something.
 

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Oh also move the pre-cat O2 sensor bung to after the 4-1 collector. The JDM ECU doesn't need a post cat O2 sensor wired up at all.
 

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Those are your problems right there. Your losing about 25+hp right there with that header and stock exhaust, possibly more
 
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