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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Just completed my 2ZZ swap, started it and am getting large amounts of whitish smoke coming out, coolant level is not decreasing however. Also realized one my O2 sensor was in the wrong place so changed that and still having the same issue.
Noticed the engine is idling pretty high, around 2k rpm, thought this may be due to the idle control with the throttle body. Could these issues be connected?

I will post a video tomorrow for more detail. Any help would be appreciated.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
I guess I should elaborate more on the engine. I bought the engine separately and rebuilt it with lower compression pistons (turbo in future), valves, springs, etc. So essentially it is a new motor, hence my confusion. I had a machine shop do the intricate details and I completed the rest, just hoping I didn't overlook anything when rebuilding.
 

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How long has it run? Coolant in the exhaust will smoke a long time. Also, first start until it gets in closed loop may run crappy. Many members have reported that. My stock ECU runs like crap until it hits closed loop and learns the aftermarket MAF.
 
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20 min should be long enough to get to closed loop. Are you certain you have no issues with the IACV leaking into the intake? A tiny drip will smoke a lot. Also, check the compression to ensure the head gasket is seated properly.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
That was my other theory, I think the throttle body needs to be cleaned (got it from a junkyard) and I'll check the IACV. Also going to do a compression check, I don't see why the head gasket would not have seated properly but doesn't hurt to check
 

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Things happen. I'm pretty meticulous when assembling engines but I've had an oopsy or two over the years. If it's the IACV I feel for you. Its almost easier to remove the head than that damn thing.
 

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My first start up was smokey and ran crappy. After the 20 min start up, empty the oil and put in break in oil. 500 miles drain the oil and send a sample to blackstone-labs.com
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Tried to upload the video, but I have a google phone and it isn't accepting the video format and cannot change on my mac..... Either way It is smoking significantly less than before, but after about 3 minutes it starts to produce a burning smell that is unidentifiable. It also seems to be burning a little more coolant than I previously thought. Compression test will be done soon.
 

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Just completed my 2ZZ swap, started it and am getting large amounts of whitish smoke coming out, coolant level is not decreasing however. Also realized one my O2 sensor was in the wrong place so changed that and still having the same issue.
Noticed the engine is idling pretty high, around 2k rpm, thought this may be due to the idle control with the throttle body. Could these issues be connected?

I will post a video tomorrow for more detail. Any help would be appreciated.
The main thing to know is that white billowy smoke is burning antifreeze. Antifreeze can get into the combustion chamber either through a fault in the IACV, a leaky head gasket, or a cracked head or block. I would pull the plugs and see if you can smell antifreeze on any of the plugs. If it is just one cylinder it is not the IACV.
Dave
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Alright, update now that it isn't freezing and I've had a chance to get out there.

Did a compression check to verify that I didn't screw up while assembling the internals and it looks like I didn't, which is good. It would seem as though the next step is to take off the throttle body and clean the whole assembly including the potentially malfunctioning IVAC.

I'll update when that is done but in the meantime I had a question about my compression numbers. They were all exactly 165. Keeping in mind that the car was not up to temp and I have lower compression 9.0:1 pistons (turbo in future), does this number seem acceptable?

I've seen online the 'safe' range for a 2zz is between 145-205, but I don't know with my setup and other variables.
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
Update:
So cleaned the throttle body and IVAC, it seemed as though the internal part that opened and closed was stuck closed. That was cleaned and the unit put back in the car. It seemed as though it was still smoking (hard to tell because it's so damn cold and windy out), but once the engine was hot it seemingly went away.

However, the temperature was rising past a safe level (which is wasn't doing before) causing me to turn it off. I think it is an air bubble with the coolant because I lost quite a bit taking off the IVAC not clamping the coolant line quick enough.

Lastly, the idle was high before and is still high after these fixes. Even when up to temperature it is idling around 2150rpm. I'm assuming there is a vacuum leak.

Anyone have any ideas on common leaks with the 2zz set up I may be missing?
 

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Definitely a bubble from coolant stuff. Burp it again.

The IACV on these is sensitive. I ended up swapping to a known good 1ZZ IACV rather than messing with the ones that came with 2ZZ import engines. Direct swap, same connector. Also had a throttle body that was really messed up, throttle plate didn't seal right. Found a better condition used one.
 

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Pull plastic in frunk. Pull out plastic lines. Plug them in and open water coolant system per recommendations. Jack back of car as high as you can get it. Start car up. Add coolant as needed. Run, watch and add coolant as necessary.
 

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Pull plastic in frunk. Pull out plastic lines. Plug them in and open water coolant system per recommendations. Jack back of car as high as you can get it. Start car up. Add coolant as needed. Run, watch and add coolant as necessary.
you don't need to run the engine to properly burp the system
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
I have a vacuum pump for the coolant system so that shouldn't be a problem.

It also seems like I didn't rewire the throttle body connector wires when I added the MWR adapter harness. After this was fixed, it made a big difference in idle, went from previously being about 2200rpm to about 1500rpm. Couldn't test if it comes down at temperature because the coolant issue, but once that is done I'm hoping it settles when it gets to temp. Don't really want to have to get a new throttle body/IAVC assembly...
 

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I have a vacuum pump for the coolant system so that shouldn't be a problem.

It also seems like I didn't rewire the throttle body connector wires when I added the MWR adapter harness. After this was fixed, it made a big difference in idle, went from previously being about 2200rpm to about 1500rpm. Couldn't test if it comes down at temperature because the coolant issue, but once that is done I'm hoping it settles when it gets to temp. Don't really want to have to get a new throttle body/IAVC assembly...
Hello Imprezya,

Just found/revisited this post. Was going to ask if you did the pin-out change for the TPS, but based on above post I believe you did. Does the throttle cable have a small amount of slack when in idle position? Worried about stressed or mis-routed cable?

Next: Do you have all the EVAP pumping correct. This was my issue when I first got my 2zz up and running.

IAC could still be an issue (it is common), but will wait for more detail.

I do not check my email often, but please post any issues and I will do my best to respond.

Some pics added for EVAP and vacuum boost lines from my vehicle.


Mr. P
 

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