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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
My 2zz swap that I am trying to complete will not start. I have been trying to start it without coolant and without a MAF sensor just to make sure the motor is good before I buy an intake and fill it up with coolant. I have a few trouble codes that may be helpful in diagnosing what is wrong and why I am having no start. The codes are as follows: P0100 Mass Air Flow A Circuit, P0110 Intake Air Temperature Sensor 1 Circuit, P0115 Engine coolant Temperature Sensor 1 Circuit.

I also would like to know if the engine will start without those two things, or am I just stupid and I need to get the intake and MAF for it to run? If anyone needs live data my scanner is also capable of that, and I have verified that my crank position sensor is working since it registers RPM when cranking.
 

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At least hook the MAF sensor up to the harness. Also connect the CLT sensor, or if it's connected sounds like it isnt working. It should work even if the system is empty.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
I figured out that the coolant temp sensor was not hooked up properly so I fixed that and now it is reading ambient air temp like it should be. No change in starting behavior though. I do not have an intake or a MAF as neither came with the car. Do you have any suggestions on an inexpensive intake to buy and I will look for a MAF sensor as well.
 

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Guys have had good luck with a COBB intake you would need to search the form a bit - can be found used. I used a PPE intake for the swap but it's not cheap.
You can buy a MAF off rock auto for cheap - Denso is the same as OEM.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
I went ahead and ran to Autozone just to grab one (a MAF) locally, and it got rid of the rest of the trouble codes, but still no running engine sadly. I looked at the exhaust ports on the head and there is gas getting in through the injectors so my guess is still spark. I guess I might need to do a compression test as well. My other thought is that the oil pressure light on the dash turns off when cranking so this means that I am both getting oil pressure and the engine knows it correct?
 

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Double check your grounds. Make sure your transmission ground is hooked up. Are you using a harness or did you patch your own?
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
I am using a swap harness, although the wiring had been messed with previously as it was running without a swap harness. I am pretty sure the wires are switched back, but it would be helpful to know that. I know that the ground on the transmission and the one next to where the negative battery lead bolts up to are connected and good.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Before I hooked up the coolant temp and MAF I tested spark and I only got it on 2 cylinders with the other 2 showing nothing but testing as having the proper 12v of power as well as ground inside the plugs to the coils.
 

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With the MAF disonnected, the engine can start and run in open loop quite well, up to a soft rev limit about 3,000rpm.

With ECT sensor disconnected, the engine can start and run, ECU will assume a failsafe temp.

So these are not your issues.

You may be missing a ground from the cylinder head above the alternator to the firewall. This can cause a non-start.
 

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If you still have no spark, use the coil (igniter) diagnostic procedures in the factory shop manual for the donor car. You can thoroughly troubleshoot all of the ignition wiring (step-by-step) with just a VOM.
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
I believe I have a ground wire rigged up from the cylinder head to the firewall, does anyone have a good photo of what that looks like and where it is supposed to be bolted to on the engine?
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
I also get 12v when I test pin 1 to ground, and continuity when I test pin 4 to ground on all 4 plugs.
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
I also just rechecked the spark plugs and I confirmed that cylinders I think 2 and 4 are working and cylinders 1 and 3 are not. I was wondering if I should be hearing the engine at least try to sputter or something but I am not really hearing any attempt to run.
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
Update 2 for anyone searching for this: Still no start unfortunately. But if you are running into a condition where only 2 spark plugs are working, it may be because your camshaft postition sensor is bad. I unplugged mine and suddenly all 4 coils were firing. I have no idea why, and I tested the cam pos sensor with a multimeter and magnet and it seemed to test fine, but still caused that problem. Strange. If anyone knows what this might be caused by that would be great.
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
I have the best update, managed to get her to start! The actual problem was that the intake cam was off about 90 degrees in timing from where it should be so I had to drop the motor with trans, take off the timing cover, reset everything, and put it back together. Once I did that she started right up! Thanks so much for your help everyone, and I should have checked the timing earlier since I bought this car from my cousin who needed to have head work done on the engine before he abandoned the project and sold it to me.
 
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