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Discussion Starter #41
<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE (CIN @ Dec 7 2007, 11:04 PM) <{POST_SNAPBACK}></div>
Open up the stock intake box and you can see the vanes at the intake tube side. Just install the damn box and you can drive it out the shop
[/b]

OK.. hopefully I have everything correct as marked. Have removed damn and will remove vanes only if we need to.



Cheers,
Rich
 

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Discussion Starter #43
<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE (WTS @ Dec 8 2007, 10:21 PM) <{POST_SNAPBACK}></div>
The vanes are vertical bars inside the "DAMN" in your pic.
[/b]
Thanks for that WTS, I'm sure this will help many others that are not sure in te future!

Cheers,
Rich
 

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Discussion Starter #44
<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE (CIN @ Dec 4 2007, 05:07 AM) <{POST_SNAPBACK}></div>
<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE (Instinct @ Dec 3 2007, 11:52 AM) <{POST_SNAPBACK}>
<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE (CIN @ Dec 3 2007, 10:57 PM) <{POST_SNAPBACK}>
Going from memory you need to move the Abs wire to where the wiring diagram says even if it was blank. Just take out the pinn and put it in the new position.

Have a link to the spreadsheet?[/b]
Thanks for your help CIN, I would prefer accurate answers rather than going by memory or guessing!
(Eeek! says good buy to fried ECU :) )

2ZZ Wiring Link

And an image for those that don't have Excel:


[/b][/quote]




The ABS one as I said before just swap it as per the diagram. If there is no pin dont worry its normal just move it to B16 still.

[/b][/quote]

Hi CIN,

Just a little confused here.. So Celica B16 = Spyder ABS Vs Celica heater conflict -
Move Spyder C8 to Celica B16 - If there is no pin to move.. how can I move it?

Or are you saying, Leave it? (B16 - Spyder where it is - that matches to Celica B16 HT1B)

Btw, I'm thinking the Matrix here " There is no Pin! " (Spoon) Lol
 

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You have no pin C8 on the Spyder as your car is J-spec (so no 3rd O2 sensor).

In position B16 on the Spyder loom you should have a wire for ABS, however.

The Celica ECU is expecting either an O2 heater on B16, or nothing on B16 (depending whether the ECU came from a US/EU car or a J-spec car).

You need to remove the pin at B16 on the Spyder loom, or you'll be hooking the ABS wire up to an O2 pin on the Celica ECU.
If you have a US/EU Celica ECU then you're going to have to live with a P0141 and P0136, however (since it's expecting an O2 heater circuit there).
 

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Discussion Starter #46
<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE (aaronjb @ Dec 10 2007, 04:03 PM) <{POST_SNAPBACK}></div>
You have no pin C8 on the Spyder as your car is J-spec (so no 3rd O2 sensor).

In position B16 on the Spyder loom you should have a wire for ABS, however.

The Celica ECU is expecting either an O2 heater on B16, or nothing on B16 (depending whether the ECU came from a US/EU car or a J-spec car).

You need to remove the pin at B16 on the Spyder loom, or you'll be hooking the ABS wire up to an O2 pin on the Celica ECU.
If you have a US/EU Celica ECU then you're going to have to live with a P0141 and P0136, however (since it's expecting an O2 heater circuit there).[/b]
Since LR supplied the ECU, I assume its a US spec ECU. I take it the code you mention are CEL codes?

Just wandering how this CEL will affect the running of the engine if its expecting am HT1B?

Thanks,
Rich
 

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Discussion Starter #47
Well, at long last... She's Alive!! NO CEL's!!!

I do have a few other problems though... I have started a new thread for these Here

However.. Thankyou to everyone that help out with the wirring issues and putting up with a
!!!
 

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Discussion Starter #48
<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE (Instinct @ Dec 10 2007, 09:57 PM) <{POST_SNAPBACK}></div>
Well, at long last... She's Alive!! NO CEL's!!!

I do have a few other problems though... I have started a new thread for these Here

However.. Thankyou to everyone that help out with the wirring issues and putting up with a
!!![/b]
Been so busy the last week that I haven't been able to get to post for a few days..

Anyway.. I now have a CEL, hooked up a reader thingy and it said P0141 and another that said Evap??? Any ideas?

Also I noticed that when I go into 'Lift' the battery light flickers a little. Today, after leaving work it flickered and stayed on.

Any ideas for a solution to the above would be greatly appreciated.

Cheers,
Rich
 

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<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE (aaronjb @ Dec 10 2007, 03:03 AM) <{POST_SNAPBACK}></div>
If you have a US/EU Celica ECU then you're going to have to live with a P0141 and P0136, however (since it's expecting an O2 heater circuit there).[/b]
That explains one of them, anyway..

The evap thing - could also be a difference between US/Japanese ECUs - I know the US and EU evap control stuff is totally different, so it stands to reason that the Japanese is also (I believe the Euro cars have the same evap control as the Japanese cars)

What was the actual evap CEL?
 

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<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE (aaronjb @ Dec 19 2007, 10:47 AM) <{POST_SNAPBACK}></div>
<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE (aaronjb @ Dec 10 2007, 03:03 AM) <{POST_SNAPBACK}>
If you have a US/EU Celica ECU then you're going to have to live with a P0141 and P0136, however (since it's expecting an O2 heater circuit there).[/b]
That explains one of them, anyway..

The evap thing - could also be a difference between US/Japanese ECUs - I know the US and EU evap control stuff is totally different, so it stands to reason that the Japanese is also (I believe the Euro cars have the same evap control as the Japanese cars)

What was the actual evap CEL?
[/b][/quote]


IIRC the evap system is the same for EU and JP but totally different in the US version. The UK/JP have an evap canister on the right hand side of the engine bay.
 

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<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE (CIN @ Dec 19 2007, 11:45 AM) <{POST_SNAPBACK}></div>
<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE (aaronjb @ Dec 19 2007, 10:47 AM) <{POST_SNAPBACK}>
<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE (aaronjb @ Dec 10 2007, 03:03 AM) <{POST_SNAPBACK}>
If you have a US/EU Celica ECU then you're going to have to live with a P0141 and P0136, however (since it's expecting an O2 heater circuit there).[/b]
That explains one of them, anyway..

The evap thing - could also be a difference between US/Japanese ECUs - I know the US and EU evap control stuff is totally different, so it stands to reason that the Japanese is also (I believe the Euro cars have the same evap control as the Japanese cars)

What was the actual evap CEL?
[/b][/quote]


IIRC the evap system is the same for EU and JP but totally different in the US version. The UK/JP have an evap canister on the right hand side of the engine bay.
[/b][/quote]

If I where you I would get a Power FC and Datalogit and remap it. No such stupid problems and the engine will run much stronger.
 

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Discussion Starter #53
<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE (CIN @ Dec 19 2007, 11:46 PM) <{POST_SNAPBACK}></div>
<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE (CIN @ Dec 19 2007, 11:45 AM) <{POST_SNAPBACK}>
<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE (aaronjb @ Dec 19 2007, 10:47 AM) <{POST_SNAPBACK}>
<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE (aaronjb @ Dec 10 2007, 03:03 AM) <{POST_SNAPBACK}>
If you have a US/EU Celica ECU then you're going to have to live with a P0141 and P0136, however (since it's expecting an O2 heater circuit there).[/b]
That explains one of them, anyway..

The evap thing - could also be a difference between US/Japanese ECUs - I know the US and EU evap control stuff is totally different, so it stands to reason that the Japanese is also (I believe the Euro cars have the same evap control as the Japanese cars)

What was the actual evap CEL?
[/b][/quote]


IIRC the evap system is the same for EU and JP but totally different in the US version. The UK/JP have an evap canister on the right hand side of the engine bay.
[/b][/quote]

If I where you I would get a Power FC and Datalogit and remap it. No such stupid problems and the engine will run much stronger.
[/b][/quote]

I can't remmember the Evap code. But the cannister on the inside right of the engine has developed an anoying rattle when coming of the power.
I will see if I can get the car back to the garage for testing by Friday.

I have worked out the 'battery flicking' problem... Alternator Dead :-( The 'newish' 2zz one gave up the ghost. I'm going to try to limp the car to a garage in the morning and have the old 1zz one put on. (I think I read that these fit, I just wasn't expecting to use it so soon! lol)


Btw, I would love a power FC, but they are so expensive. Maybe in about 6 months time if I can save (as the 2zz wasn't a planned swap, more of an emergency.. oh my god my engines stuffed what do I do now, swap! lol).
 

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<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE (Instinct @ Dec 19 2007, 12:38 PM) <{POST_SNAPBACK}></div>
<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE (CIN @ Dec 19 2007, 11:46 PM) <{POST_SNAPBACK}>
<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE (CIN @ Dec 19 2007, 11:45 AM) <{POST_SNAPBACK}>
<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE (aaronjb @ Dec 19 2007, 10:47 AM) <{POST_SNAPBACK}>
<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE (aaronjb @ Dec 10 2007, 03:03 AM) <{POST_SNAPBACK}>
If you have a US/EU Celica ECU then you're going to have to live with a P0141 and P0136, however (since it's expecting an O2 heater circuit there).[/b]
That explains one of them, anyway..

The evap thing - could also be a difference between US/Japanese ECUs - I know the US and EU evap control stuff is totally different, so it stands to reason that the Japanese is also (I believe the Euro cars have the same evap control as the Japanese cars)

What was the actual evap CEL?
[/b][/quote]


IIRC the evap system is the same for EU and JP but totally different in the US version. The UK/JP have an evap canister on the right hand side of the engine bay.
[/b][/quote]

If I where you I would get a Power FC and Datalogit and remap it. No such stupid problems and the engine will run much stronger.
[/b][/quote]

I can't remmember the Evap code. But the cannister on the inside right of the engine has developed an anoying rattle when coming of the power.
I will see if I can get the car back to the garage for testing by Friday.

I have worked out the 'battery flicking' problem... Alternator Dead :-( The 'newish' 2zz one gave up the ghost. I'm going to try to limp the car to a garage in the morning and have the old 1zz one put on. (I think I read that these fit, I just wasn't expecting to use it so soon! lol)


Btw, I would love a power FC, but they are so expensive. Maybe in about 6 months time if I can save (as the 2zz wasn't a planned swap, more of an emergency.. oh my god my engines stuffed what do I do now, swap! lol).
[/b][/quote]

Alternators do go on the MR-S. On the 2ZZ swapped ones it seems that dead alternators are more common. One of the major issues IMO is heat. The alternator in the celica is in the front and air flow is plentyful. On a MR-S it is at the back with no airflow and stuffed against the firewall. IT gets quite hot.
 

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<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE (CIN @ Dec 4 2007, 05:07 AM) <{POST_SNAPBACK}></div>

Thanks for your help CIN, I would prefer accurate answers rather than going by memory or guessing!
(Eeek! says good buy to fried ECU :) )

2ZZ Wiring Link

And an image for those that don't have Excel:


[/b]



The ABS one as I said before just swap it as per the diagram. If there is no pin dont worry its normal just move it to B16 still.

[/b][/quote]

Hi CIN,

Just a little confused here.. So Celica B16 = Spyder ABS Vs Celica heater conflict -
Move Spyder C8 to Celica B16 - If there is no pin to move.. how can I move it?

Or are you saying, Leave it? (B16 - Spyder where it is - that matches to Celica B16 HT1B)

Btw, I'm thinking the Matrix here " There is no Pin! " (Spoon) Lol
[/QUOTE]
hello may i ask you about the celica b16 and b25 how you done with thst?
 
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