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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
so this past weekend we took the spyder out on its first road trip since buying her... went down to VA beach and managed to get some great gas mileage... on one of my fillups, i squeezed 382.4 mi on ~10.4 gallons...

i changed the oil maybe two weeks ago and only put 500 miles on her since then but i was just over a qt lower on oil... i was a little nervous as that is alot more than the normal 1qt~1k, but started to think if it was because i was on a longer hwy drive? the engine is pretty rev happy and i was avg between 3k-4k rpm the whole trip ~70-75mph...

this was my first oil change so i haven't had a chance to monitor the oil usage yet and the last change i put in some AutoRX to clean things up a bit... i gutted my precats the first week i got the car... they were fine... what's next for me to check? compression test?
 

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What oil are you running? i purchased my car with 113k miles on it, precats still intact. I gutted and for a while i ran 5w30 mobil 1 high mileage. I noticed i would burn about a quarte of oil between changes. I then switched to normal 5w-30 and burned a little more oil.
I now am running castrol 0w30 euro and burn barely any oil. Given i've run a few cleaners.. Weird how it all worked out.
I would consider myself a very spirited driver and enjoy back roads in the high RPM range on a daily basis(or every other) 4-6k miles between oil changes and i check my oil every fillup at the petrol station.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
and leak down test
will add that to the list...

What oil are you running? i purchased my car with 113k miles on it, precats still intact. I gutted and for a while i ran 5w30 mobil 1 high mileage. I noticed i would burn about a quarte of oil between changes. I then switched to normal 5w-30 and burned a little more oil.
I now am running castrol 0w30 euro and burn barely any oil. Given i've run a few cleaners.. Weird how it all worked out.
I would consider myself a very spirited driver and enjoy back roads in the high RPM range on a daily basis(or every other) 4-6k miles between oil changes and i check my oil every fillup at the petrol station.
i just used reg 5w30 since i was trying the autoRX and it mentioned to just use regular dino oil... i always see the threads about castrol euro here... i'll just check the oil before each time i drive the car and add where needed and after the rinse phase of this autoRX, i'll switch to the Euro and see how that goes... what cleaners did you use? i have also used seafoam with pretty good success in my other cars, but haven't gotten there yet on the spyder...
 

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will add that to the list...



i just used reg 5w30 since i was trying the autoRX and it mentioned to just use regular dino oil... i always see the threads about castrol euro here... i'll just check the oil before each time i drive the car and add where needed and after the rinse phase of this autoRX, i'll switch to the Euro and see how that goes... what cleaners did you use? i have also used seafoam with pretty good success in my other cars, but haven't gotten there yet on the spyder...
most recently which i think may have made the difference was the seafoam. i did crank case and gas. Aside from that, cheaper fuel treatment additives right after getting the car.
 

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A few things here.

The autoRX treatment is a good one from personal experience. If you read the literature it states that you may observe some consumption during the cleaning process as well as rinse cycle.

What I would do is change the oil to a 5W or 10W-40 regular oil for the rinse cycle and observe the consumption. Then after the rinse go with a high quality synthetic oil like the Euro Castrol .
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
most recently which i think may have made the difference was the seafoam. i did crank case and gas. Aside from that, cheaper fuel treatment additives right after getting the car.
thanks for that... i have been researching about fuel treatments... seen lots of talk about the Yamaha Ring Free, Techron fron Chevron and even Seafoam... i may just go through with the seafoam since it has worked for me before...

A few things here.

The autoRX treatment is a good one from personal experience. If you read the literature it states that you may observe some consumption during the cleaning process as well as rinse cycle.

What I would do is change the oil to a 5W or 10W-40 regular oil for the rinse cycle and observe the consumption. Then after the rinse go with a high quality synthetic oil like the Euro Castrol .
thanks dev... all the real life testimonies with autoRX are all positive... it seems to work slowly but surely... didn't realize that bit about the literature, so it puts my mind a bit more at ease... i'll do the 10w40 for the rinse as i also recall reading that somewhere else...

i would have thought that with a synth oil, you are prone to burn more oil? or is that incorrect, and the detergents will help keep the few drain holes clear so the rings don't stick again?
 

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Yes it is possible to burn more oil using synthetic but only if the rings have deposited heavily.
Once the rings are free and clean of deposits then the consumption should come down. What is more important for reduced consumption is switching the a thicker grade of oil. You don't want to go too thick otherwise you will reduce fuel consumption and may cause fluid friction.

I highly recommend reading thoroughly the instructions for using AutoRX so you get the results you are looking for. A good way to know that it is working is to observe the etched yellow varnish dissolve from the dipstick.

In regard to fuel cleaners, don't wast your time with them as they do not really do anything. Seafoam is a waste of money and so is Techroline . The best thing you can do for your car is fill up with good gas that has the substances in it. If you are interested in a good product that is highly regarded for the fuel system I recommend fuel power 60 as it will clean up deposits over time.
If your injectors warrant cleaning then it's better to send them out for ultrasonic cleaning and flow testing.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Yes it is possible to burn more oil using synthetic but only if the rings have deposited heavily.
Once the rings are free and clean of deposits then the consumption should come down. What is more important for reduced consumption is switching the a thicker grade of oil. You don't want to go too thick otherwise you will reduce fuel consumption and may cause fluid friction.

I highly recommend reading thoroughly the instructions for using AutoRX so you get the results you are looking for. A good way to know that it is working is to observe the etched yellow varnish dissolve from the dipstick.

In regard to fuel cleaners, don't wast your time with them as they do not really do anything. Seafoam is a waste of money and so is Techroline . The best thing you can do for your car is fill up with good gas that has the substances in it. If you are interested in a good product that is highly regarded for the fuel system I recommend fuel power 60 as it will clean up deposits over time.
If your injectors warrant cleaning then it's better to send them out for ultrasonic cleaning and flow testing.
i already noticed already after the first 200 miles, the oil turned black very quickly... seems like the autoRX made quick work toward liquidfying any sludge/deposits already... i was following the directions for the basic cleaning, but i think i may just swap out the filter at 1500 miles just for the piece of mind...

does good gas also include bumping up to a higher octane?

I have tried all the commonly mentioned chemical fixes, and a few not-so-common ones.
The only treatment that yielded noticable results was Yahama RingFree. At ~$20 per fill-up, it was too expensive for me to use it long enough to clear the (assumed) blocked oil drain holes in the pistons. Until those holes are unclogged, the rings will soon coke up again. But, The RingFree *did* work while I was using it.
i wouldn't have thought that at that price RingFree was a continuous additive... just thought it was an occasional maintenance item...
 

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i already noticed already after the first 200 miles, the oil turned black very quickly... seems like the autoRX made quick work toward liquidfying any sludge/deposits already... i was following the directions for the basic cleaning, but i think i may just swap out the filter at 1500 miles just for the piece of mind...

does good gas also include bumping up to a higher octane?
During the treatment process of the AutoRX cycle there is not much cleaning as the esters will coat most of the varnish and it will rejuvenate the seals. It is during the rince part of the cycle the varnish and deposits come off.
I would not change the oil filter for two reasons.
1. The liquefied deposits will be suspended in the oil and will most of it will pass though the filter anyway.
2. If there is any particulate you want it to accumulate on the filter media so that it becomes more efficient. The short duration the filter is on will not impede the flow of the oil.

In regard to good fuel quality higher octane does not designate that. If you go with some of the brand name gas stations they will add more additives at the gas station that may help with keeping the fuel injectors clean.
Modern fuel injectors generally keep clean but if you think you need them to be cleaned get them professionally cleaned. Much of those injector cleaners in a bottle are just snake oil.
 

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Precats

Are your precats still intact? I had a similar issue. I burned quite a bit of oil after first buying my car. After realizing that "precat death" is a common problem with the spyder car i decided to check mine. They were deteriorating, after gutting them i did an oil change, went up to a thicker oil and havent had a huge problem about 1q every 800 or so miles, which is good enough for me...I would check to see if your precats are intact... if they are, gut them its really easy and will add alot of life to your car if they havent already caused damage.
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
Are your precats still intact? I had a similar issue. I burned quite a bit of oil after first buying my car. After realizing that "precat death" is a common problem with the spyder car i decided to check mine. They were deteriorating, after gutting them i did an oil change, went up to a thicker oil and havent had a huge problem about 1q every 800 or so miles, which is good enough for me...I would check to see if your precats are intact... if they are, gut them its really easy and will add alot of life to your car if they havent already caused damage.
Lol reading comprehension pwns u matey... It's in my OP... thanks for the advise tho...

i gutted my precats the first week i got the car... they were fine...
 

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44K made by BG is a good fuel additive. I have seen it work well on many poor running cars. It will not help with oil consumption though.

You may want to research Top Tier fuel specs from various companies.
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
During the treatment process of the AutoRX cycle there is not much cleaning as the esters will coat most of the varnish and it will rejuvenate the seals. It is during the rince part of the cycle the varnish and deposits come off.
I would not change the oil filter for two reasons.
1. The liquefied deposits will be suspended in the oil and will most of it will pass though the filter anyway.
2. If there is any particulate you want it to accumulate on the filter media so that it becomes more efficient. The short duration the filter is on will not impede the flow of the oil.
dev - just realized u r in silver spring... i stopped by to see a mate this weekend on the way down to VA beach... next time i'll try to meet you up!!!

so i noticed in other threads that you and OldMan also tried MMO... how did that work out for you? i know that autoRX works, but was thinking maybe an MMO phase after the rinse...

True
Warrented
UnWise

Pissing off would-be helpful people is not the best course of action.
noted... however, honest question here, are people really that sensitive? and was my comment really that harsh??? i've seen alot worse gets thrown around...

44K made by BP is a good fuel additive. I have seen it work well on many poor running cars. It will not help with oil consumption though.

You may want to research Top Tier fuel specs from various companies.
thanks i'll have a look into the 44k...
 

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dev & OldMan also use the Shift-key, you & are. That worked out well for them.
 

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so i noticed in other threads that you and OldMan also tried MMO... how did that work out for you? i know that autoRX works, but was thinking maybe an MMO phase after the rinse...

thanks i'll have a look into the 44k...
I found that MMO treatment directly on the piston head did absolutely nothing. The only thing that actually worked was the GM decarbonizer in the bottle but now the formula has changed and it does not work any ware as good as the old stuff. Seafoam is a waste of money however it does do something as an induction cleaner and then the effect goes away after about a week.

MMO in the fuel will only lower the combustibility of the fuel which I noted when I observed my fuel trims were much higher and then when I ran just regular gas the trims went back to normal.

Where I have seen MMO work is with problematic motors that have lifter tick. I don't want to discount MMO but those have been my experiences.


In regard to BG 44k I have used it three times in various cars and also and have not noticed any difference at all except my wallet.

Fuel Power 60 is the only fuel additive to date that has actually worked.
 
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