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As I'm close to finishing up, I'll be documenting some progress of my project.
Head:
- 3 angle valve job
- MWR standard valve springs and Ti-retainer
- MWR SS flat face valves
- Stock cams
- Mild exhaust port match
Block:
- Wiseco 9.5:1
- Crower rods
- Sleeved block
- Balanced rotating assembly
- ARP main studs
- MWR rod and main bearings
- Moroso pan
- Oil pickup spacer (deeper extension)
- New OEM oil pump with EN24 steel gears and shimmed (higher pressure relief)
EMS & Fuel
- PFC & datalogit
- 850cc Denso injectors
- 255 Walbro (for now)
- Radium fuel rail & Aeromotive adj. FPR
Tranny:
- 3.9 FD & LSD and new synchros
- 1st: 3.166
- 2nd: 2.050
- 3rd (JUBU): 1.438
- 4th (JUBU): 1.105
- 5th: 0.916
- 6th: 0.815 (from C64)
Turbo is a GTX2863r rated for 430hp. It falls short for my power goal, but using E85 I can realistically make 460-480whp @ 20-22 psi. I'm hoping to make power past 8500rpm, but since I'm pushing past the efficiency island on this turbo I don't know where that will take me. On a bone stock engine, I made 390whp @ 8200rpm and the power curve was not sloping down yet.
So about a month ago, the stock engine was getting tired of the abuse since I started hearing some piston slaps from worn out bores. Out with the old and ready for the tear down.
I started out with a cleaned head with 3 angle valve job. Hand valve lapping was long and tedious. I used clover 180 and 320 grit lapping compound and got the job done successfully. Tested by flooding brake cleaner inside each port, and all valves held the fluid with no leakage.
Toyotool was a definite requirement to install springs and keepers. However the tool was too big to give a good angle pressing down on the springs. I ended up grinding the tool on one side to give me more clearance from the cam bearing journals.
Then comes adjusting valve lash, which was a major PITA. I had to order 9 new shims and it was an expensive deal. A week later I managed to get .004"-.005" clearance on intake and .011" on exhaust.
Then I decided to match the exhaust ports to maybe help the engine breathe better. I left a 1mm anti reversion lip on the bottom half.
Before:
After:
After receiving JUBU gears from oversea (which somehow took only 2 days to my door), I have to take on the daunting task of disassembling the transmission. I've never taken apart a tranny before, so this was a big learning curve for me. I read through the BGB about 15 times and memorized the parts diagram before I begin. Still it was very challenging to keep up with what goes where. I opened up my stock C60 and a C66 (Euro 6 speed) to get all the gears I wanted. The 3.9 FD and OEM LSD were a plus.
A few hours later...
After thinking it over, I realize I don't want to be cruising 70mph at 2800rpm. It would be fairly laggy for the turbo and I'd have to downshift each time I need to pass someone. Liking how I was cruising with the C60, I traded the Celica's .725 6th for a Lotus's .815. This makes the Lotus's 6th with 3.9 FD cruises at very identical speed to the Celica's 6th with 4.5 FD. I managed to follow the BGB and got all the gears re-installed. I did everything without using a press. Just a Harbor Freight bearing splitter set and a hammer was all it took.
For the fuel return, I blocked off the stock fuel pressure regulator with a rubber cork and then used 3/4 heater hose to hold it in place.
Moving to the block, I installed the crankshaft and checked for clearance. Many people reported that MWR main bearings tend to be a little on the tight side due to the coating, but mine was well within specs.
Then in go the pistons. I gapped top ring to .017" and bottom .023". Crower rods installed and clearance checked. I also had a weird issue with the piston squirter hitting the piston side skirt. I had to use a long screw driver and slightly bend the nozzle more towards the middle of the piston and that fixed it.
Got head installed with ARP head studs and lubed it up.
I got the timing done and cams installed. I was beat and called it a day. This is how the engine sits today.
Head:
- 3 angle valve job
- MWR standard valve springs and Ti-retainer
- MWR SS flat face valves
- Stock cams
- Mild exhaust port match
Block:
- Wiseco 9.5:1
- Crower rods
- Sleeved block
- Balanced rotating assembly
- ARP main studs
- MWR rod and main bearings
- Moroso pan
- Oil pickup spacer (deeper extension)
- New OEM oil pump with EN24 steel gears and shimmed (higher pressure relief)
EMS & Fuel
- PFC & datalogit
- 850cc Denso injectors
- 255 Walbro (for now)
- Radium fuel rail & Aeromotive adj. FPR
Tranny:
- 3.9 FD & LSD and new synchros
- 1st: 3.166
- 2nd: 2.050
- 3rd (JUBU): 1.438
- 4th (JUBU): 1.105
- 5th: 0.916
- 6th: 0.815 (from C64)
Turbo is a GTX2863r rated for 430hp. It falls short for my power goal, but using E85 I can realistically make 460-480whp @ 20-22 psi. I'm hoping to make power past 8500rpm, but since I'm pushing past the efficiency island on this turbo I don't know where that will take me. On a bone stock engine, I made 390whp @ 8200rpm and the power curve was not sloping down yet.
So about a month ago, the stock engine was getting tired of the abuse since I started hearing some piston slaps from worn out bores. Out with the old and ready for the tear down.

I started out with a cleaned head with 3 angle valve job. Hand valve lapping was long and tedious. I used clover 180 and 320 grit lapping compound and got the job done successfully. Tested by flooding brake cleaner inside each port, and all valves held the fluid with no leakage.
Toyotool was a definite requirement to install springs and keepers. However the tool was too big to give a good angle pressing down on the springs. I ended up grinding the tool on one side to give me more clearance from the cam bearing journals.
Then comes adjusting valve lash, which was a major PITA. I had to order 9 new shims and it was an expensive deal. A week later I managed to get .004"-.005" clearance on intake and .011" on exhaust.
Then I decided to match the exhaust ports to maybe help the engine breathe better. I left a 1mm anti reversion lip on the bottom half.
Before:
After:
After receiving JUBU gears from oversea (which somehow took only 2 days to my door), I have to take on the daunting task of disassembling the transmission. I've never taken apart a tranny before, so this was a big learning curve for me. I read through the BGB about 15 times and memorized the parts diagram before I begin. Still it was very challenging to keep up with what goes where. I opened up my stock C60 and a C66 (Euro 6 speed) to get all the gears I wanted. The 3.9 FD and OEM LSD were a plus.
A few hours later...
After thinking it over, I realize I don't want to be cruising 70mph at 2800rpm. It would be fairly laggy for the turbo and I'd have to downshift each time I need to pass someone. Liking how I was cruising with the C60, I traded the Celica's .725 6th for a Lotus's .815. This makes the Lotus's 6th with 3.9 FD cruises at very identical speed to the Celica's 6th with 4.5 FD. I managed to follow the BGB and got all the gears re-installed. I did everything without using a press. Just a Harbor Freight bearing splitter set and a hammer was all it took.
For the fuel return, I blocked off the stock fuel pressure regulator with a rubber cork and then used 3/4 heater hose to hold it in place.
Moving to the block, I installed the crankshaft and checked for clearance. Many people reported that MWR main bearings tend to be a little on the tight side due to the coating, but mine was well within specs.
Then in go the pistons. I gapped top ring to .017" and bottom .023". Crower rods installed and clearance checked. I also had a weird issue with the piston squirter hitting the piston side skirt. I had to use a long screw driver and slightly bend the nozzle more towards the middle of the piston and that fixed it.
Got head installed with ARP head studs and lubed it up.
I got the timing done and cams installed. I was beat and called it a day. This is how the engine sits today.