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Discussion Starter #1
As I'm close to finishing up, I'll be documenting some progress of my project.

Head:
- 3 angle valve job
- MWR standard valve springs and Ti-retainer
- MWR SS flat face valves
- Stock cams
- Mild exhaust port match

Block:
- Wiseco 9.5:1
- Crower rods
- Sleeved block
- Balanced rotating assembly
- ARP main studs
- MWR rod and main bearings
- Moroso pan
- Oil pickup spacer (deeper extension)
- New OEM oil pump with EN24 steel gears and shimmed (higher pressure relief)

EMS & Fuel
- PFC & datalogit
- 850cc Denso injectors
- 255 Walbro (for now)
- Radium fuel rail & Aeromotive adj. FPR

Tranny:
- 3.9 FD & LSD and new synchros
- 1st: 3.166
- 2nd: 2.050
- 3rd (JUBU): 1.438
- 4th (JUBU): 1.105
- 5th: 0.916
- 6th: 0.815 (from C64)

Turbo is a GTX2863r rated for 430hp. It falls short for my power goal, but using E85 I can realistically make 460-480whp @ 20-22 psi. I'm hoping to make power past 8500rpm, but since I'm pushing past the efficiency island on this turbo I don't know where that will take me. On a bone stock engine, I made 390whp @ 8200rpm and the power curve was not sloping down yet.

So about a month ago, the stock engine was getting tired of the abuse since I started hearing some piston slaps from worn out bores. Out with the old and ready for the tear down.



I started out with a cleaned head with 3 angle valve job. Hand valve lapping was long and tedious. I used clover 180 and 320 grit lapping compound and got the job done successfully. Tested by flooding brake cleaner inside each port, and all valves held the fluid with no leakage.



Toyotool was a definite requirement to install springs and keepers. However the tool was too big to give a good angle pressing down on the springs. I ended up grinding the tool on one side to give me more clearance from the cam bearing journals.




Then comes adjusting valve lash, which was a major PITA. I had to order 9 new shims and it was an expensive deal. A week later I managed to get .004"-.005" clearance on intake and .011" on exhaust.

Then I decided to match the exhaust ports to maybe help the engine breathe better. I left a 1mm anti reversion lip on the bottom half.

Before:


After:



After receiving JUBU gears from oversea (which somehow took only 2 days to my door), I have to take on the daunting task of disassembling the transmission. I've never taken apart a tranny before, so this was a big learning curve for me. I read through the BGB about 15 times and memorized the parts diagram before I begin. Still it was very challenging to keep up with what goes where. I opened up my stock C60 and a C66 (Euro 6 speed) to get all the gears I wanted. The 3.9 FD and OEM LSD were a plus.



A few hours later...



After thinking it over, I realize I don't want to be cruising 70mph at 2800rpm. It would be fairly laggy for the turbo and I'd have to downshift each time I need to pass someone. Liking how I was cruising with the C60, I traded the Celica's .725 6th for a Lotus's .815. This makes the Lotus's 6th with 3.9 FD cruises at very identical speed to the Celica's 6th with 4.5 FD. I managed to follow the BGB and got all the gears re-installed. I did everything without using a press. Just a Harbor Freight bearing splitter set and a hammer was all it took.


For the fuel return, I blocked off the stock fuel pressure regulator with a rubber cork and then used 3/4 heater hose to hold it in place.



Moving to the block, I installed the crankshaft and checked for clearance. Many people reported that MWR main bearings tend to be a little on the tight side due to the coating, but mine was well within specs.



Then in go the pistons. I gapped top ring to .017" and bottom .023". Crower rods installed and clearance checked. I also had a weird issue with the piston squirter hitting the piston side skirt. I had to use a long screw driver and slightly bend the nozzle more towards the middle of the piston and that fixed it.



Got head installed with ARP head studs and lubed it up.



I got the timing done and cams installed. I was beat and called it a day. This is how the engine sits today.

 

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Discussion Starter #2 (Edited)
Here's today's dyno session on the built engine. I couldn't finish tuning ignition on top end because the dynojet ran into some computer issues and we had to stop. I could probably make about 5-10 more whp adding timing near redline.
I'm somewhat disappointed in the results but I can see why it came out this way. It made about 415whp @19-20 psi.

I clearly overestimated what this turbo can flow. On the high boost run, I was seeing some high IAT and it stopped making noticeable power after 15psi, though midrange torque was still ramping up. I'm sure the head can flow more, but the turbo can't keep up. I'd need a bigger, more efficient turbo if I want to make power past 8500rpm.

Here's the high boost graph. It hits 20 psi and tapers down to 18.5 psi near redline.



Here's high vs low boost (19 psi vs 11 psi)

 

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Speaking of transmission...how much torque do you anticipate, and do you think the tranny will survive long term?
 

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I say kudos as well, only a handful of people would attempt a transmission gear swap and even fewer be successful

Sent from my XT907 using Tapatalk 2 BC Oldman wants to know
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Speaking of transmission...how much torque do you anticipate, and do you think the tranny will survive long term?
I think in the range of 340 ft-lb. I'm pretty sure the tranny will be fine doing pulls on the street and will last for a while. The C60 I had held up for years and I do abuse it on street and drag strips. I've been using Redline Shockproof and that stuff is supposed to cushion the gears on impact to reduce chance of breaking.

I won't take the win until the tranny is back in the car for a test drive.

Doing some speed calc, it gave me the following top speed in each gear at 8500rpm.




Compared to stock C60

 

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Nice job taking on the transmission with no experience and mastering it. I can't imagine there would be bothersome turbo lag while turning 2800 rpm on the freeway during a passing situation, you must be impatient!
 

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Pretty damn awesome. Love these type of builds. Good job on having the balls to do a transmission.
 

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Looking forward to seeing the numbers of this. its going to take a serious amount of tuning and port matching everything to get the car to pull all the way to 9k but i'm confident it will happen. I need to tackle my gearbox next. You need any specialty tools when working in there?
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Looking forward to seeing the numbers of this. its going to take a serious amount of tuning and port matching everything to get the car to pull all the way to 9k but i'm confident it will happen. I need to tackle my gearbox next. You need any specialty tools when working in there?
I use this bearing splitter set http://www.harborfreight.com/bearing-separator-and-puller-set-93980.html
Also a harmonic puller http://www.harborfreight.com/46-piece-bolt-puller-set-37824.html
Then I cut about 8" of 1.75" diameter steel pipe to use as a sleeve to hammer the gears back in.
It was easier to install the gears than to pull them off.
 

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Wow nice job on everything.

Whats the thought behind the anti reversion lip only at the bottom of the port? Looks like you didn't port the divider to a sharper edge, how come?
 

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What a beast!

I use this bearing splitter set http://www.harborfreight.com/bearing-separator-and-puller-set-93980.html
Also a harmonic puller http://www.harborfreight.com/46-piece-bolt-puller-set-37824.html
Then I cut about 8" of 1.75" diameter steel pipe to use as a sleeve to hammer the gears back in.
It was easier to install the gears than to pull them off.
Many props on that job! I'm new here so I'm just getting a look around at what some of you have done, and so far that job is on the top 3.
 

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Good work. I'm interested to see how that turbo goes. I was thinking next year going 2zz turbo but with 2867.
 

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Discussion Starter #15
Wow nice job on everything.

Whats the thought behind the anti reversion lip only at the bottom of the port? Looks like you didn't port the divider to a sharper edge, how come?
The 1mm bottom step was recommended by Illusive. He didn't explain why but I think it has to do with the path of airflow. Most of the velocity will be toward the top of the exhaust ports when it exits the cylinders and a smooth transition there will promote flow. The bottom step is for anti reversion. My machinist who does head porting for turbo hondas told me to not knife edge the middle column between the ports. He said keep it fat to reduce turbulence as exhaust combines together at the junction. The intake on the other hand needs to be knife edged. He said without proper flow benching I should leave those parts alone and work on port matching only.
 

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The 1mm bottom step was recommended by Illusive. He didn't explain why but I think it has to do with the path of airflow. Most of the velocity will be toward the top of the exhaust ports when it exits the cylinders and a smooth transition there will promote flow. The bottom step is for anti reversion. My machinist who does head porting for turbo hondas told me to not knife edge the middle column between the ports. He said keep it fat to reduce turbulence as exhaust combines together at the junction. The intake on the other hand needs to be knife edged. He said without proper flow benching I should leave those parts alone and work on port matching only.
Not sure why I realized it was the exhaust for the anti reversion thought and thought it was the intake when I saw the port wall. :lol:

Interesting about the turbulence leaving it more blunt.

Any thoughts on some type of traction control for the streets or will this become mainly a drag style car? Lucky you already have widebody for wider tires.
 

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WOW you have been quite busy!

I love how easily the motor rolls in with the rear crash beam and the cross member removed. I had to roll the front wheels onto 2 2x10's and then lift the whole rear end at a 45 degree angle to get clearance in there.
 

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WOW you have been quite busy!

I love how easily the motor rolls in with the rear crash beam and the cross member removed. I had to roll the front wheels onto 2 2x10's and then lift the whole rear end at a 45 degree angle to get clearance in there.
I just noticed that as well. This makes it even a bit easier to plan out doing a motor swap at home without a lift. ... Some day....
 
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