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<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE (MaverickMKIII @ Mar 27 2008, 01:32 AM) <{POST_SNAPBACK}></div>
IM DONE... TO[/b]
I guess i'm the newest victim.

2001 spyder
87k miles
1650 miles since my last oil change and my engine starting knocking.
Checked oil and it was completely dry.
Put 3.25 quarts in before it showed full.

Called toyota and there's no service bulletin for this problem? How can that be with so many complaints?

Am I screwed or is there a way to get toyota to pay repair/replace the engine.

Since the catalytic converter is still covered would the damage it caused to the engine be covered?
Has anyone who is out of their standard warranty been successful in getting toyota to replace their engine?
 

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<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE (garstud @ May 10 2008, 04:51 PM) <{POST_SNAPBACK}></div>
<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE (MaverickMKIII @ Mar 27 2008, 01:32 AM) <{POST_SNAPBACK}>
IM DONE... TO[/b]
I guess i'm the newest victim.

2001 spyder
87k miles
1650 miles since my last oil change and my engine starting knocking.
Checked oil and it was completely dry.
Put 3.25 quarts in before it showed full.

Called toyota and there's no service bulletin for this problem? How can that be with so many complaints?

Am I screwed or is there a way to get toyota to pay repair/replace the engine.

Since the catalytic converter is still covered would the damage it caused to the engine be covered?
Has anyone who is out of their standard warranty been successful in getting toyota to replace their engine?
[/b][/quote]

Garstud - have you gone to Toyota yet and have you had any success with them? I'm in the same boat and trying to plan the best strategy for going to battle with them. At a minimum, I will take in some printouts of this great forum, but I don't know what else to expect.
 

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<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE (dcarey @ May 15 2008, 04:24 PM) <{POST_SNAPBACK}></div>
<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE (garstud @ May 10 2008, 04:51 PM) <{POST_SNAPBACK}>
<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE (MaverickMKIII @ Mar 27 2008, 01:32 AM) <{POST_SNAPBACK}>
IM DONE... TO[/b]
I guess i'm the newest victim.

2001 spyder
87k miles
1650 miles since my last oil change and my engine starting knocking.
Checked oil and it was completely dry.
Put 3.25 quarts in before it showed full.

Called toyota and there's no service bulletin for this problem? How can that be with so many complaints?

Am I screwed or is there a way to get toyota to pay repair/replace the engine.

Since the catalytic converter is still covered would the damage it caused to the engine be covered?
Has anyone who is out of their standard warranty been successful in getting toyota to replace their engine?
[/b][/quote]

Garstud - have you gone to Toyota yet and have you had any success with them? I'm in the same boat and trying to plan the best strategy for going to battle with them. At a minimum, I will take in some printouts of this great forum, but I don't know what else to expect.

[/b][/quote]

Guess it's my turn. I bought my car on Friday 66,000 miles on her, took it to walmart on Sat to get the oil changed drove her for 8 days, heard the knockin oil light flashed on while I was pulling into the driveway at work, checked the oil not a drop. I had put cardboard under her in the driveway when I brought her home and she wasn't leaking a drop outside, car is white with no black around the exhaust. Took it to the toyota dealer 3 miles from work 2 weeks ago and was told the rod and bearings where bad needed a new motor, no warranty 6,000. I'm getting a new motor with 5 year 100,000 mile warranty on it, but noone has ever said a word about the "precats". Sorry to sound so stupid, but I have no idea what precats is or if this is my problem or those intelligent souls at walmart didn't put any oil back in my car.
 

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a fellow spyderchatter needs help!

year: 2000
miles: 71k

heard knocking on the freeway when I reved 2 days ago. Checked the oil, bone dry. Had to add 3 quarts to get it back to full. Oil was just changed 3k miles ago. Brought it in to Peircey Toyota (milpitas) and they say there is rod knocking on cylinders 2 and 3. A number of options I can take, 1 being a new short block costing 6.5-7.5k. The blue book of my car is 10k. I told them that this is a common problem with this car regarding the precats but the Assistant Service Manager is arguing otherwise. I demanded to escalate the issue and he is getting back to me on Monday. He requested that I produce service records of the car to better help my case. He is bringing up the issue with Toyota and his manager.

What do I do? Is there a dealership in northern california that anyone has brought their car to that have experience with this problem and have been able to get the 8/80 warranty applied??

thanks,
Will
 

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I have a 2000 mr2 spyder and this is exacly what has happened to my car! I recently bought it about 9 months ago and now I have a car that sits in my driveway and goes no where! I dont understand why Toyota hasnt had a recall on this engine. I now owe 9000 on a car that just sits. 350 a month and I am forced to drive a 84 el camino! I took it to the dealership in Puyallup WA and they told me it would be 8500 to replace the engine and all of the sensors they claim are out.. Has anyone been able to get toyota to pay for there replacement engine? If there is anything anyone can do to help please let me know.. I am looking for a replacment engine to get my baby back on the road.
 

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<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE (darkday @ Jun 28 2008, 06:13 PM) <{POST_SNAPBACK}></div>
Guys can we cut out the yaking and stick to the format?

With the size of this thread it's extremely difficult to read paragraphs to figure out milage and whatnot if you're trying to analyize the data.[/b]
I guess you're complaining about me me, but isn't this the thread for "documentation"?

Isn't the thread with the strict "just the data" format called "Catalytic Converter/Engine Failures (Post Yours)"?

Tom
 

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If there was no problem with the same engine used in millions of Celicas, & the only differece in the Spyder is the pre-cats, doesn't that PROVE that the pre-cats are the root of the problem?

Tom
 

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EDIT 04/11/05: Finally finished up the details today... haha. It's nearly 1 1/2 years and I've completely forgotten about this post. I hope it was useful to people around here!

EDIT 04/03/06: Last week, I finally got around to replacing the manifold with Che's stainless header. Over the course of the year, I've been pulling the O2 sensors periodically to check the condition of the precats. I'm glad to report that approximately 40,000 miles after the last incident, the precats are still in one piece. If you are intent on getting rid of your precats, here is a link for all the parts you might need, and here is a link with instructions on how to get it done.

I've decided to document my precat case to assist anybody who might need it in the future. I remember there was something similar in the old board, so if it turns out to be useful, perhaps the mods can make this post a sticky for reference. Hopefully both old and new members of spyderchat can take advantage of this information.

Please refer to existing posts found here and here for more information.


Here's what I've managed to garner so far from everybody else's experiences. Please correct me if I'm mistaken:

1. Engine oil blow by is caused by piston ring distortion from heat while running the motor in mid-high rpms (or just regular operation).

In addition, as kingspyder (thanks!) pointed out, there is another school of thought which believes the block has an overbore issue which is a result of poor factory quality. Effectively, this causes oil blow by during standard operation. If so, this would mean that blueprinting the 1ZZ might be a remedy. That would, however, be far too expensive as a practical solution.
2. Leaked oil is seeping into pre-catatalytic converters.
3. Exposure of precats to oil causes the material to break off.
4. Due to the close proximity of precats to engine, contaminated air with precat material is returned somehow (magically?).
5. Contaminated air (precat dust?) is sucked into the combustion chamber which causes engine failure to accelerate.
6. Repeat steps 1-5.
7. I haven't managed to find anyone claiming to know what the specific problem with the engine was, but I am assuming it has to do with rod bearings and low oil volume/pressure or even blown piston rings.

edit (thanks Racer x!): forgot to mention that there is speculation saying that the precats just start falling apart on their own which means that they cause the problems to begin with (excessive backpressure distorting the piston rings).

It would seem that the occurrence is fairly random; only a few unlucky souls have been inflicted by this problem. It hits people with low mileage and high mileage as well. There is, however, a theory which points the blame at using natural oil, and several others scapegoating the break-in process used.

As of right now, the only preventative measure Spyder owners can take is getting rid of the precats either by gutting them out w/ a screwdriver or by removing them completely by replacing the factory header with an aftermarket header; niether option is very appealing nor recommended since they require time/money and the car probably won't pass smog. At least, not in California.

The best way to make sure you're not affected is to check your oil consumption regularly. Toyota's standard allowance of consumption is 1qt/1,500mi. Additionally, you can check the cats visually by pulling the 02 sensors on the header. When doing so, make sure everything looks intact. A third way of checking is the "t-shirt" method. This is done by placing a black t-shirt directly under your exhaust pipe, and giving it a few revs. If specs of catalytic converter material are found on the shirt, then chances are, you've got pre-cat syndrome.

Here is a personal log of what has happened up to this point:

42,000 Mi. - Noticed that the oil happened to be a bit low right before taking it in to my local dealership (Macpherson Toyota) for my standard 3,000 mile oil change. At this point, it was about 1 cm higher than the "E" mark on the dipstick which equates to about 1.5 quarts. Took it in and commented to the tech that the oil level was a bit low and asked if they could possibly check. They did so, and did indeed confirm that oil levels were a bit abnormal; told me to that they needed more time w/ the car and recommended that I start an oil consumption test if it happened again.

45,000 Mi. 11/22/03 (Sat). - Checked oil levels periodically and they were still falling pretty quickly. Oil consumption seemed to be about 2.0 quarts/3,000 miles. Oil consumption test started by larger dealership close to work (Longo Toyota), which will hopefully have a better service center. At least they have wireless internet (and a $tarbuck$ too)!


45,917 Mi. 11/28/03 (Fri.) - While driving on the freeway and cruising at about 4K rpms, engine suddenly started making metallic knocking noises (similar to a loose timing chain but louder) and lost a severe amount of power. Pulled off, turned off the car, and restarted it. Revved to about 6K rpms, but takes a tremendous amount of throttle to get beyond 4K. At this point, the car is fine after restarting as long as throttle is kept under 3K rpms. After the car warms up, or goes beyond 3K, there is a severe loss of power and the metalic sound is fairly prevalent (spun bearing?).

46,051 Mi. - 11/29/03 (Sat.)- Took the car back to the dealership today, and confirmed that oil consumption was approximately 1.5 quarts for 1,051 miles. The service advisor who was handling my case, Danny LeBlanc, was pretty helpful, and says he has seen this once before in another Spyder. Hopefully, we can get everything sorted out without too much hassle. He claims that he must contact the corporate office on Monday and wait for them to advise what to do w/ the car. Service advisor lets me leave with the car since rental office is already closed for the weekend. Currently waiting for them to call back, and planning to take the car back in on Mon.

46,115 Mi. - 11/30/03 (Sun.) - Put another 64 miles on the car, and it has gotten SEVERELY worse. Engine will not rev beyond 4,800 rpms when in neutral, and under strain (5th gear), does not rev beyond 3,500 rpms. Taking the car back in to the dealership tomorrow because it is definitely undriveable this way.

46,215 Mi. - 12/01/03 (Mon.) - By the time I reach the dealership, top speed has been reduced to approximately 50mph. Car does not rev beyond 2,500 rpms, and under heavy strain, it is much worse.

46,215 Mi. - 12/02/03 (Tues.) - Spoke to the service advisor today after stopping in to rent a replacement, and he let me know that corporate has not yet responded to their inquiry; he then called the technician over to find out what was going on with the car. Technician who pulled the motor told me that they were probably going to have to replace the Piston Head in addition to the cats and shortblock.

While making small talk with the service advisor, he mentioned to me that this is the 3nd case him and his partner (I guess they work in pairs there?) have handled for Spyders in the past 1 1/2 years. I was trying to convince them to make sure they replaced the head in addition the shortblock and cats, but he told me he was already lobbying for that to happen. Apparently, the last car he did went through two blocks before it was finally fixed, much like everyone else here. He let me know that he thinks Toyota is documenting the problem, but he wasn't quite sure. Hopefully they'll have some good news for me on Thursday.

Driving the Corolla sucks!

46,215 Mi. - 12/05/03 (Fri.)
- Called Danny, the SA, and he confirmed that everything we thought had happened, did indeed happen. They've sent the head out to a machine shop to get it checked, and everything should be ready by Tuesday. He mentioned that they were going to replace at least the cats and the engine block. Depending on what the machine shop reports back, they might end up replacing the entire engine.

Man, I still hate driving the Corolla...

46,215 Mi. - 12/09/03 (Tues.) - I receive a call from an operator at Longo Toyota telling me that my car is ready to go. I race over to the dealership (as quickly as the Corolla will take me at least) after work and pick up my car. Unfortunately, Danny wasn't in to give me any details. While looking over the invoice, however, I see that they've billed the warranty work for $4,000+. Apparently, the machine shop thought the head looked ok, so it wasn't replaced. They did replace all catalytic converters though, along with the block.

Epilogue:

66,000+ Mi. - 04/11/05 - Okidoki. So, I've put on significant mileage in the past year and a half, but everything still seems to be running strong. I go back to Longo Toyota occasionally, but I've been told that Danny LeBlanc, the service advisor I was working with, has moved onto working at a Honda dealership in Clairmont.

I was chatting with a Senior service advisor the other day, and I found out a little more about the warranty. Since I forgot to ask initially, I asked him what kind of guarantee was available for dealer repairs. He told me that if I ever exceed my factory warranty, which I have, Toyota will guarantee any work done by an authorized dealer for 12,000 miles or one year. These repairs can be done by any Toyota service center; I would not be forced to return to the same dealership. Unfortunately, this doesn't help my case.

I gotta remember to get off my ass and pull the O2 sensors to check the cats ASAP.

If I every do gut them, I will probably do so after I get my first smog check. This way it will at least put off the headache I'd have to deal with w/ emissions.

Overall, I'm quite happy with the work they've done for me, and I hope anyone else who runs into this problem can at least get the same treatment. Except for the fact that I was stuck with a Corolla, everything was fairly painless, and it was taken care of professionally.

Engine modifications: None.
Gas used: 87.
Type of driving: Spirited.
Oil Type: Natural.
Mileage: 42,000 when noticable problems arose.

Please contact me if any of this information is incorrect or confusing and I will do my best to accomodate.
[/quot

the same happened to me,,, my service engine light came on,, they said i had a bad oxygen senser and the car was running really rich, yada yada yada, few miles down the road ( this was all at around 59,000 miles by the way), they had to replace the lower block, and later on the head spun bearing twice, and now its been at Toyota for 2 months after this labor day weekend, they havent touched it all are fighting over which dealership messed up,, aparently, when they put in the lower block and took off my tranny, they never put it back on right or not enough fluid, and this 5 speeds bearings all siezed up.. and my it now has 76,000 miles, and i never drive the car. and its still under 100,000 4 year warranty, and guess what, my warranty company went out of bussiness, and toyota doesnt think they are obligated to fix it.. i dont even feel like a customer. its bad......... since its been there for 2 months thus far, my lawyer says thats a good thing, he's gonna bang um out for a new $3800 tranny and the $1600 for the bogus third party warranty they sold me and never offered a legit toyota warranty......... ill have my day,, its a shame,, i never got to drive it all summer though.... I WANT MY SUMMER BACK!!!!lol lol
 

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<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE (Broke_down_spyder @ Jun 28 2008, 08:50 PM) <{POST_SNAPBACK}></div>
I have a 2000 mr2 spyder and this is exacly what has happened to my car! I recently bought it about 9 months ago and now I have a car that sits in my driveway and goes no where! I dont understand why Toyota hasnt had a recall on this engine. I now owe 9000 on a car that just sits. 350 a month and I am forced to drive a 84 el camino! I took it to the dealership in Puyallup WA and they told me it would be 8500 to replace the engine and all of the sensors they claim are out.. Has anyone been able to get toyota to pay for there replacement engine? If there is anything anyone can do to help please let me know.. I am looking for a replacment engine to get my baby back on the road. :icon_beatdeadhorse: :icon_beatdeadhorse: :mrs_2gunsfiring_v1: :let_it_all_out:[/b]
hey me too,, same prob, same year, i think personally the engine is garbage compared to the late 80's and early 90 years, those engines were just stronger and built to beat, this engine, is fragile, you get up on it or get those rpm's up and you spin bearings.........mines been at toyota for the past two months with a extended warranty out of businiess and corporate toyota doesnt want to take responsibiliy for anything...........im really surprised.
 

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June 16 4PM at an independant used car lot 15 miles from home to check out the only white spyder with a manual clutch for sale within 250 miles. It's a 2000, but with only 51k miles. Slight smoke on cold startup, & slight backfire on low-rpm engine-braking, so I paid nearby Norwalk (California) Toyota $95 to do a thorough check, including fluids.

June 17 1PM they finally call to say everything's fine (just the after-market muffler letting some extra noise through) so I bought it, spending an extra $1800+ on a deluxe 48mo General Electric extended warranty, & drove straight home (15 miles).

June 18 10AM after washing it I got a "check engine" light & ABS light flicker. Norwalk said that's normal after washing (!!), but the seller went back there with me & paid them to replace the "90,000 mile" spark plugs, which is what they then said was the problem. That seemed reasonable for a 2000, since plugs can wear with time, not just miles. ABS checked out okay. Later it became apparent that they reset the onboard computer. I drove straight home.

June 19 10AM after about 10 miles (55 since oil check) the engine starts rattling at just under 2000rpm with no load (in neutral, or between shifts), so after failing to find any loose parts I returned home & parked it, awaiting confirmation of the GE warranty next week.

June 23 1PM I drove it 8 miles to my local dealer: DCH Toyota & Scion of Torrance (Ca.). I never even saw the oil light flicker, but...:

June 24 3PM Assistant Service Manager (Sean Smith) called to say they saw it, so they checked the oil, finding only 1/2 quart left!!!!! Owners manual says 0.2 quarts in the filter, so that's 9.6 OUNCES in the engine!! (284ml) I still hadn't considered that Norwalk must have checked the oil, but if they did, 3.4 quarts burned in about 73 miles, or 21.5 miles per quart!! (86 miles per gallon of OIL!!). I was only mad at myself for not checking it.

VERY upsetting, since even momentary low pressure can cause damage which may not be detectable until the warranty runs out & it dies early at 200k instead of 300. They charged me $98 for a computer check that Sean said they couldn't complete because the system had been reset recently, but he said he wouldn't charge me when I brought it back after a few days/miles & they could check it properly.

He said since the noise stopped, it's likely okay, but I should check to see if it burns more than a quart per 1000 miles. I consoled myself with the fact that the oil light didn't come on (until RIGHT before they filled it) & with the theory that maybe oil-pressure-regulated valve-lash adjusters are designed purposely to take more pressure to run, so it will make relatively harmless noise before much damage occurs.

8 miles later at home, as a base-line for consumption I checked the oil after a few minutes, finding it about* half-way to the low mark!!! Hoping that they just didn't really top it up (although that seemed unlikely with "3.4 quarts added" & a 3.9 quart capacity!), I went to drive it another 10 miles or so to see if it went all the way to the low mark (1.4 quarts, says the owners manual) but before I even got 10 miles, the "check engine" light came on again, so I dropped it back off at Torrance. This was my first night drive in traffic, & on the way there I could see smoke in the headlights behind me, even though it didn't show in daylight. When I got home I checked for an online group, found this great one, & learned about pre-cats.

*it's the hardest-to-read dipstick I've ever seen, in over 30 years of auto work.

June 26 11:30 Sean called to say they were taking a look at it so I told him about pre-cats & he seemed interested, as if he'd never heard of this issue. He mentioned that he'd have to check the DATE in 2000 that the car was purchased, to see if the 8 year 80,000-mile government-mandated emission-control warranty would still apply.

June 27
9:30 Sean called to get permission to use my $98 as HALF of the charge required to change an ignition coil, since they couldn't tell from the "cyl 2 missfire" test code if it was a coil or fuel injection. I told him to first check the oil level & precats.
11:56 Sean called back to say the oil level was fine (!!!!), & that the smoke was likely from the missfire. I asked him to check the precats, & he said he'd call back when he knew more.

July 1 10:26 Sean finally called. Cyl. 2 compression is only 155 dry & 190 w. oil added, meaning bad rings, not valve seats (but the valve guides could still be bad). For comparison, cyl 1 is 180, & 3 & 4 are both 175. Purchase date was April 22, 2000, so the 8 year/80,000 mile emissions warranty recently expired even though the mileage is low. I had to persuade him to call GE to warranty it. HE thinks the cause is a previous owner neglecting to change the oil, but he did suggest I print out the failure reports from this forum.

July 3: Sean told GE that it was an existing problem, so they don't want to cover it.

July 7: The seller (who also sold me the GE warranty) recommended taking it back to Norwalk, who had said there were no existing problems when I bought it.

July 8: The seller drove it to Norwalk.

July 11: He says we'll likely know by the 14th.

July 18: He says TWO cylinders have bad rings, which will be replaced along with a con-rod, with a 1-year unlimited-mileage warranty on the work, & he's going to MAKE GE cover it, by going over their head to Wachovia, who do all his car loans. Tim at Norwalk says (somewhat indignantly) "I know what pre-cats are", so I ask him to please check them visually when the engine is apart. He says "they must be fine, or there'd have been a code".

July 21: Eric at Norwalk says they're installing new rings, rod bearings, oil & water pumps, tension pulley, & thermostat. He repeats Tim's comment that the pre-cats "must be okay", but I ask him to please inspect them anyway.

July 26: They say it's done, but after pickup the engine light came on after about 15 miles so I took it back.

July 31: They say "It's done, with a new sensor installed", but the no-charge invoice mentions VVTi failure, & lists parts as "GEAR ASSY, CAMSHA" (#13050-22012), & "VALVE ASSY. CAM T" (#15330-22030). I removed the O2 sensors to find the precats nicely cleaned out by the previous owner, but apparently not in time to prevent all the above damage.

Oct 22: Still only getting about 600 miles per quart, which is much less than the factory spec of 800 miles per quart, so I took it back & they topped it off & put sealant on the dipstick, filler cap, drain & filter, so I couldn't drain it myself & claim it was burned.

Nov 20: After less than 600 miles the oil light flickered as I entered my driveway, which means it had to be more than 3 quarts low, so I called Nowalk Toyota & they told me to add a quart & drive it in!!

Dec 18: Nearly ONE FULL MONTH at Norwalk Toyota, but no charge for re-boring all cylinders, new pistons/rings, and a new crankshaft/bearings!!!

Jan 11: Returned it to Norwalk Toyota, since it's still burning at least as much oil, often getting only 32 miles per quart!!! It's been there for 16 days as I write this, supposedly awaiting warranty replacements for defective new rings!

Feb 17: 38 days so far this time at Norwalk, for a total of 112 days (including 19 at DCS) being "fixed", & 133 driving it!

Tom
 

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I suppose this is probably the place to post my question. I am new here, in fact I just signed up today. I am not yet a Spyder owner, but expect to be by the end of the day. I do have a question about something that this board has got me kind of worried about. You probably guessed that it's pre-cats. The car I'm looking at is a 2001, so I think I've read enough here to know that it is particularly succeptible to this. It seems to be fine now, but what I really want to know is just how worried about this I need to be. Just looking for some solid input before it's too late.
 

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<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE (hondo73 @ Mar 11 2009, 11:01 AM) <{POST_SNAPBACK}></div>
I suppose this is probably the place to post my question. I am new here, in fact I just signed up today. I am not yet a Spyder owner, but expect to be by the end of the day. I do have a question about something that this board has got me kind of worried about. You probably guessed that it's pre-cats. The car I'm looking at is a 2001, so I think I've read enough here to know that it is particularly succeptible to this. It seems to be fine now, but what I really want to know is just how worried about this I need to be. Just looking for some solid input before it's too late.[/b]
I think we will see the consensus will be to either gut or replace the oem manifold asap. If it is running fine now most likely it is still intact but for how long nobody knows.
 

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before purchasing. drive the car somewhere, where you can pull out the o2 sensors for a look at the honeycomb. If it is missing or damaged don't buy it. If it looks ok. then buy the car and gut the kitties.
 

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Pre Cat Verified and Removed

At the urging of you members I checked my new ride for pre-cats. Yep they were there.

Following all the good information available here, removal went according to plan. It’s the first time I have used PB Blaster. Good stuff. No broken studs or nuts.

Installation went almost according to plan with one exception. While installing one of the O2 sensors, I noticed it started to tighten up about half way. Not good. The interesting thing is that it started normally. As I backed it out, it tightened even harder to the point that I thought I was going to break something. Rocking back and forth like tapping a hole finely did the trick. The sensor threads were buggered up and some were gone.

With the manifold on the bench, I could see the missing sensor threads stuck in the threaded hole. I used a sharp pointed tool to dig them out then examined the manifold. It turns out that I dinged one of the threads while clearing the cat and it created a burr. The burr chewed the sensor threads and created material build up. That explained why it was harder to remove than install.

The damage wasn’t too bad. I used a spark plug chaser to clear things out. Shopping around for a replacement sensor I found prices from $170 from Mr. T to $69 at Kragen. I got the Kragen universal unit and spliced on the original connector from the ruined unit. The new unit looked different than the original but I was assured that they were interchangeable. Everything is back together and running fine. The new sensor is Bosh part number 15733 if you are interested.

Thanks again for all the valuable posts!
 

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Oh Lord, I just noticed my car seemed to be burning oil It's been about 2,500 since my last change and it seems like it's all the way down the dip stick (44k on it) so I filled it up I could've sworn it was at the F line. Anyways, I could've sworn I filled it up to the Full line when I put in oil. I drove home after I put in the oil from college so approximately 30 miles+ 5 miles to the auto parts store + 5 miles to warm up my car=40 miles I just checked it after approximately 40 miles and it's about half ways down the dip stick now.....Transmission has been having problems recently also, so I'm not sure what I'm going to be doing with that I haven't decided I'm waiting to figure out what it is exactly that's wrong with it.
 
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