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I weighed my MR2 at Button Willow. I was expecting something over but close to 1,950 lbs, optimistically, but decided it was likely closer to 2,000 lbs. My expectations were based on Toyota's claimed weight of 2,185, and I assumed that to be dry weight.
So, lets see the results:
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Well, that was unexpected. 1,895 lbs without driver and on 1/8 tank fuel. 2,032 lbs with me sitting in it, geared up for racing (I think I gained some weight!). The weight distribution, with driver, is 43% front and 57% rear. The overall weight difference between left and right is exactly 100lbs, with no attempt on my part to balance it out.
I expect this will be followed by requests for weight loss advice, therefore I will address that now. It's all about portion control. People needlessly worry about fat content and calories. Fat content, calories, sodium intake: all of that will fall into place if you eat reasonable portions. Also, cook your own meals in batches.
Now for Spyder weight loss :lol:
The second best bang for your buck is taking out the passenger seat. It's free and people will stop asking for rides.
The third best bang for your buck is to take out the spare tire, bucket, and plastic surround in front. This will shed weight and make it easier to check/service fluids in the future, and will assist with any sway bar installs in the future.
The fourth best bang for your buck is to replace the header and cat with a PPE header and test pipe. Also, replace the muffler with a light catback (this rules out team moon dual and remus, they are heavy) This drops a very significant amount of weight AND you gain power. It also balances the car after you removed weight from the front per the last suggestion. This costs $$$ which is why it is higher on the list.
The fifth best bang for your buck is to replace the OEM sized battery with a light weight dry cell. I recommend the Odyssey PC545, a 10 lb battery. I use the Deka xt9, a 6 lb battery, but it may not be suitable for cars that will sit unused for longer than a week, unless you want to disconnect terminals every time you park. I also relocated it to the front of the car and secured it using Corky's mount, which I recommend. It helps balance the car, and it brings the battery much lower.
The best bang for your buck is to remove the soft top. The thing weight a ton and is situated at the highest part of the vehicle. Besides reducing the weight of your MR2 significantly, it will also drop your center of gravity. If you race the car then keep it off. If you street the car then keep the side posts, the front latches, and the weather stripping and buy a VIS carbon fiber hardtop. Be aware that running without a top creates a lot of drag. No problem for auto-x. Big problem for big tracks with half-mile straits.
In addition to the above, you should clear out the cabin of everything that is plastic that is next to or behind the seats. This includes the carpet, luggage shelves, doors and the tray. Replace the driver seat with something lighter. Bolt it directly to a bracket. I use the Wedge Engineering bracket. Some an alternative intake to the stock intake. It probably won't make more power, but it will be much lighter. Make sure to rip out the snorkel that travels through the driver's-side fender. Remove the plastic door panels. Remove the airbags. Replace the steering wheel with a smaller one.
Remove the OEM seat belts and put in a harness for the driver. Note: a harness will break your neck in a front collision. It should only be used with a helmet and some sort of neck protection device such as a Hans, Necksgen, Isaac, or R3. Replace the front and rear hood with fiberglass (often marketed as 'carbon fiber'). I removed the rear under tray, but do not recommend this as doing so hurts aero. Remove everything under and within the dash: there are three boxed units: heater core (drain coolant first), AC unit, and fan unit. There is also various tubes routing air to the vents. In the center, bolted to the floor with torx bolts, is the airbag control unit (it could also be the random engine code generator). Pasted to the firewall is a bunch of insulation, which should easily flake and rip right out. The same stuff will be found on the rear firewall.
My D2-coil-overs are marginally lighter than the OEM suspension they replaced. My 15x9 949 Racing 6ul wheels are marginally lighter as well. I removed the sway bars which removes a good bit of weight. Be aware that doing so will require you to use custom spring rates to compensate. I am not even sure if removing the sways is a good idea as more testing is required. Do so at your own risk. I have removed the plastic grills in the rear bumper. I have removed the AC core, compressor, and lines. I moved down to a smaller belt to compensate. I am using a lighter flywheel and clutch (Fidanza).
Things I have not yet done: I have not gutted my doors. My center console is mostly intact. My island shelf is intact. My front window is still made of glass. I have not removed the front and rear crash bars. My harddog still has the latch for the soft top welded onto it.
Weight I have added: Harddog roll bar, double diagonal (60-70 lbs).
So, lets see the results:
Well, that was unexpected. 1,895 lbs without driver and on 1/8 tank fuel. 2,032 lbs with me sitting in it, geared up for racing (I think I gained some weight!). The weight distribution, with driver, is 43% front and 57% rear. The overall weight difference between left and right is exactly 100lbs, with no attempt on my part to balance it out.
I expect this will be followed by requests for weight loss advice, therefore I will address that now. It's all about portion control. People needlessly worry about fat content and calories. Fat content, calories, sodium intake: all of that will fall into place if you eat reasonable portions. Also, cook your own meals in batches.
Now for Spyder weight loss :lol:
The second best bang for your buck is taking out the passenger seat. It's free and people will stop asking for rides.
The third best bang for your buck is to take out the spare tire, bucket, and plastic surround in front. This will shed weight and make it easier to check/service fluids in the future, and will assist with any sway bar installs in the future.
The fourth best bang for your buck is to replace the header and cat with a PPE header and test pipe. Also, replace the muffler with a light catback (this rules out team moon dual and remus, they are heavy) This drops a very significant amount of weight AND you gain power. It also balances the car after you removed weight from the front per the last suggestion. This costs $$$ which is why it is higher on the list.
The fifth best bang for your buck is to replace the OEM sized battery with a light weight dry cell. I recommend the Odyssey PC545, a 10 lb battery. I use the Deka xt9, a 6 lb battery, but it may not be suitable for cars that will sit unused for longer than a week, unless you want to disconnect terminals every time you park. I also relocated it to the front of the car and secured it using Corky's mount, which I recommend. It helps balance the car, and it brings the battery much lower.
The best bang for your buck is to remove the soft top. The thing weight a ton and is situated at the highest part of the vehicle. Besides reducing the weight of your MR2 significantly, it will also drop your center of gravity. If you race the car then keep it off. If you street the car then keep the side posts, the front latches, and the weather stripping and buy a VIS carbon fiber hardtop. Be aware that running without a top creates a lot of drag. No problem for auto-x. Big problem for big tracks with half-mile straits.
In addition to the above, you should clear out the cabin of everything that is plastic that is next to or behind the seats. This includes the carpet, luggage shelves, doors and the tray. Replace the driver seat with something lighter. Bolt it directly to a bracket. I use the Wedge Engineering bracket. Some an alternative intake to the stock intake. It probably won't make more power, but it will be much lighter. Make sure to rip out the snorkel that travels through the driver's-side fender. Remove the plastic door panels. Remove the airbags. Replace the steering wheel with a smaller one.
Remove the OEM seat belts and put in a harness for the driver. Note: a harness will break your neck in a front collision. It should only be used with a helmet and some sort of neck protection device such as a Hans, Necksgen, Isaac, or R3. Replace the front and rear hood with fiberglass (often marketed as 'carbon fiber'). I removed the rear under tray, but do not recommend this as doing so hurts aero. Remove everything under and within the dash: there are three boxed units: heater core (drain coolant first), AC unit, and fan unit. There is also various tubes routing air to the vents. In the center, bolted to the floor with torx bolts, is the airbag control unit (it could also be the random engine code generator). Pasted to the firewall is a bunch of insulation, which should easily flake and rip right out. The same stuff will be found on the rear firewall.
My D2-coil-overs are marginally lighter than the OEM suspension they replaced. My 15x9 949 Racing 6ul wheels are marginally lighter as well. I removed the sway bars which removes a good bit of weight. Be aware that doing so will require you to use custom spring rates to compensate. I am not even sure if removing the sways is a good idea as more testing is required. Do so at your own risk. I have removed the plastic grills in the rear bumper. I have removed the AC core, compressor, and lines. I moved down to a smaller belt to compensate. I am using a lighter flywheel and clutch (Fidanza).
Things I have not yet done: I have not gutted my doors. My center console is mostly intact. My island shelf is intact. My front window is still made of glass. I have not removed the front and rear crash bars. My harddog still has the latch for the soft top welded onto it.
Weight I have added: Harddog roll bar, double diagonal (60-70 lbs).
the only weight reduction i did is removed the bucket,spare tire,front plastic,luggage door lid,and a light weight exhaust...are you able to take a picture of your interior lol? i cant imagin how does it looks like when its fully striped !!
