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Discussion Starter #1
Hi guys, I've been following a few threads here and elsewhere in order to help me understand how to remove the original 1ZZ from my 2001 MR2 and replace with MonkeyWrench's 2ZZ kit.

I have some extra questions that I can't get clear answers on so was hoping you could help.

My background is pretty non-mechanical but I have a friend helping who has worked on mustangs in the past.
We've got the exhaust system out, most electrical disconnected, hoses removed, car lifted on on a hoist by rear member, with axle stands for added safety and the front wheels on ramps to give plenty of clearance.

We're now at the point on removing the engine itself and it seems we'd be better to drop the Transaxle and Engine as a unit. Assuming that is the case my first question centers on the Axles.

1) Am I better to pull them from the Transaxle and leave them attached to hubs or pull them from hubs and drop them with the transaxle?
I believe I need new nuts if I pull from hubs and a pry bar if I pull from transaxle. Can you expand on that process (passenger side first for example)?​

2) There are 2 hard pipes running from underside of the car up toward the side of engine with timing belt etc. I believe these are AC pipes and in which case, how on earth do you get to the bolts holding the compressor on?!

3) We've currently disconnected all cables we can, rather than pull the wiring harness through the bulkhead. Was that a mistake? Am I better to pull the harness through and then do all the disconnections once the engine is free of the car?
I will be using the MonkeyWrench plug/play wiring adapter if that changes your answer!​

4) We've unbolted the clutch cylinder but have not yet pulled it's cable clip and attempted to 'dremmel' it out around the mount. Given we're pulling transaxle and engine (so that mount will be unbolted), can we avoid this if we carefully lower and ensure it doesn't get snagged on said mount?

5) I tried to find a Haynes manual and failed (I had good luck with those when I lived in the UK). Are there equivalent manuals for the 2001 Spyder ?

Those are my major 'not sure how to proceed' questions (possibly there will be more!)

My plan is to get the car back on the road for a reasonable price. I'm not intending to race it or go nuts so my goal is to replace that busted 1ZZ as cheaply as possible (but decided a 2ZZ was too good an upgrade to pass up). Currently I aim to get the 2ZZ (with plug/play wiring kit)/PPE header and downpipe from MonkeyWrench.

Any experience good or bad with the above?

I'd really appreciate any advice/pointers etc on my questions and in general. The poor car has sat in my garage for a year and I'm really keen to get it back on the road!

Thanks,
Ian
 

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- Pull the main rear crossmember and detach all the suspension arms from the rear spindle, including the forward arm that connects to the frame near the front of the engine compartment. Also remove the bumper, bumper support and rear sway bar - this will give you PLENTY of room to move the engines in and out if you don't have a hoist.

-With all those suspension parts detached, it is easy to 'pull' the wheel assembly out by holding onto the brake caliper to remove the driveshafts at the transaxle end. You will need to use a long prybar and hammer to pop the driver's side axle out as it has a c-clip retaining it in the transaxle. For the passenger side, remove as many of the bolts between the bracket and block as you can, then remove both bolts that hold the shaft to the braket and pull the shaft partly out of the transaxle. Finally, remove the rest of the bolts between the bracket and block - the bracket can be removed from the shaft and you can just tie the 2 shafts up and out of the way to remove the engine. That way you don't need to take the shafts out of the rear spindles, much easier!

Leave the AC lines attached to the compressor, and once you remove the front and rear engine mounts, you should be able to 'swing' the engine on the left and right mounts (these take the weight, the front and rear mounts absorb the torque of the engine) to get access to the bolts holding the compressor to the block. Don't forget to take the serpentine belt off first, and then after removal, tie the compressor up against the bottom of the car to keep weight of the lines. This will also give lots of space to detach the coolant line at the thermostat housing, and the fuel line.

Much easier to pull the harness thru the bulkhead and swap it over with the engines out of the car. Trust me.

The mount that the cable clamp for the clutch slave runs through can be remove from the frame and transaxle, freeing the slave and line which can be tied out of the way under the car somewhere. No need to dremel, or even remove the clamp.

Get the 2 volume BGB from Toyota. You can find an engine mechanical manual for the 2ZZ online, but it can be more difficult to find the electronic parts for the 2ZZ engine (EFI sections, etc.). You just need the mechanical sections and EFI section. Also the EWD for the spyder is nice to have, but not a requirement.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
- Pull the main rear crossmember and detach all the suspension arms from the rear spindle, including the forward arm that connects to the frame near the front of the engine compartment. Also remove the bumper, bumper support and rear sway bar - this will give you PLENTY of room to move the engines in and out if you don't have a hoist.

-With all those suspension parts detached, it is easy to 'pull' the wheel assembly out by holding onto the brake caliper to remove the driveshafts at the transaxle end. You will need to use a long prybar and hammer to pop the driver's side axle out as it has a c-clip retaining it in the transaxle. For the passenger side, remove as many of the bolts between the bracket and block as you can, then remove both bolts that hold the shaft to the braket and pull the shaft partly out of the transaxle. Finally, remove the rest of the bolts between the bracket and block - the bracket can be removed from the shaft and you can just tie the 2 shafts up and out of the way to remove the engine. That way you don't need to take the shafts out of the rear spindles, much easier!

Leave the AC lines attached to the compressor, and once you remove the front and rear engine mounts, you should be able to 'swing' the engine on the left and right mounts (these take the weight, the front and rear mounts absorb the torque of the engine) to get access to the bolts holding the compressor to the block. Don't forget to take the serpentine belt off first, and then after removal, tie the compressor up against the bottom of the car to keep weight of the lines. This will also give lots of space to detach the coolant line at the thermostat housing, and the fuel line.

Much easier to pull the harness thru the bulkhead and swap it over with the engines out of the car. Trust me.

The mount that the cable clamp for the clutch slave runs through can be remove from the frame and transaxle, freeing the slave and line which can be tied out of the way under the car somewhere. No need to dremel, or even remove the clamp.

Get the 2 volume BGB from Toyota. You can find an engine mechanical manual for the 2ZZ online, but it can be more difficult to find the electronic parts for the 2ZZ engine (EFI sections, etc.). You just need the mechanical sections and EFI section. Also the EWD for the spyder is nice to have, but not a requirement.
Thanks Funkycheeze! We'll be taking another shot this weekend so I've a few days to picture all those steps but from what I remember staring at last saturday they make a lot of sense! Appreciate the reply.
 

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The thread old man posted is going to be much more usefully to you than the BGB.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Thanks Funkycheeze! We'll be taking another shot this weekend so I've a few days to picture all those steps but from what I remember staring at last saturday they make a lot of sense! Appreciate the reply.
Funky - passenger side axle out exactly as you described!

Still having issue with drivers - have tried turning and prying but seems like I'm bending the metal cup/ring? Between transmission and large round black metal surrounding axle
That's probably a terrible description! It looks like a shield to stop dirt getting right up against where axle goes into trans.

So, am I better putting passenger axle back in an turning that while prying drivers or continue to pry/turn/pry?

I'm slightly worried about giving it a smack and damaging transaxle (I had it replaced at 70k so it's pretty new!)

Any thoughts?

Thanks
Ian
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Maybe picture will help

image.jpg image.jpg image.jpg

Apologies(using iPhone)
The ring I was talking about should be visible against trans. - it was black till I scratch/ bent it with a screwdriver!
 

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Don't pry on the dust shield. Put the tip of a long pry bar in the cut outs on the OD of the joint, against the outboard edge of the cutout and beat the other end of the pry bar with a hammer, forcing the joint towards the wheel. Spin the disc a bit to beat on another cutout if that doesn't work, just keep working around. It takes a mighty whack to remove!
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Don't pry on the dust shield. Put the tip of a long pry bar in the cut outs on the OD of the joint, against the outboard edge of the cutout and beat the other end of the pry bar with a hammer, forcing the joint towards the wheel. Spin the disc a bit to beat on another cutout if that doesn't work, just keep working around. It takes a mighty whack to remove!
Ahh! Ok I'll uncover the car try again!
I assume I basically can't damage it?!

I found a video of removing a c clipped axle from a diff and they had the whole damn diff pulled apart. Started to scare me that I'd missed asking about a step!!

Thanks Funkycheese! This whole exercise is making me feel very noob like but it's fun to tinker with a car instead of a keyboard for a change! Really appreciate the help

Ian
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Don't pry on the dust shield. Put the tip of a long pry bar in the cut outs on the OD of the joint, against the outboard edge of the cutout and beat the other end of the pry bar with a hammer, forcing the joint towards the wheel. Spin the disc a bit to beat on another cutout if that doesn't work, just keep working around. It takes a mighty whack to remove!
Thank you!

:-D

weapons.jpg
ds_axle.jpg

In case others stumble across this post and hit a similar issue - Funkycheeze's advice above worked perfectly.

The single piece of advice I would add is the angle of the pry bar.
It took me a while to figure it out laying on my back but it seems to easiest angle is to have the pry bar (I used the blue bar in my pic) angled so that it's basically resting on the rear engine mount.
I don't have a good picture of that right now but it should be pretty obvious as you look at it.

I was able to sit outside the car, duck under the rear frame to line up the bar, hold the bar so it was almost against the mount, and whack it *hard*!
That seemed to be about the best angle of attack for both getting the bar on the ridges and hitting the axle 'out' rather than up/out.

I had the g/f turn the wheel slightly a couple times and also put some pull pressure on the hub so it was super obvious when it released without me having to duck back under and look.

Hope some of that helps and thanks again Funkycheeze!

Next weekend the compressor and hopefully engine out completely!

Ian
 

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You could have left the wheel assembly on the car, attached to the strut. You have enough movement to take the driveshafts out just by removing all the control arms.

Glad to hear you were successful.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
You could have left the wheel assembly on the car, attached to the strut. You have enough movement to take the driveshafts out just by removing all the control arms.

Glad to hear you were successful.
Yeah I left the passenger one on but we'd removed most of the d/s following another thread. I had one strut/assembly bolt in there when we pull the driveshaft but the weather here has been pretty crap of late so I removed that last bolt and put the the assembly in the shed rather than leaving it hanging/tied up. I followed just your instructions for passenger side as we'd not touched that one yet and yeah - 3 arms was all that was needed!
 
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