MR2 SpyderChat banner

1 - 20 of 228 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,200 Posts
Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
A little background: This car has been my toy for 3 years now and unfortunately it has been down for the past 2 years. I made the mistake of lending my car to a friend to borrow as a daily driver as his S4 was down. Well the best guess is that he mis-shifted from 3rd to 2nd and this led to the destruction that has left me track-carless since. He threw the rod in cylinder 1 and the 1zz was shot. His numerous attempts to start the car led to metal in the oiling system and there were deep scratches in the cam journals and one nasty gouge in the side of cylinder 1. Lesson learned. Only let my brothers drive the car :blink:

This car was fun when it was on track and I like to think it was well sorted out. Undoubtedly the limiting factor was the driver as everyone was able to turn better times than I. Thus the car is now ready for it's heart transplant and thanks to a stroke of luck it will be getting a new motor out of a donor Celica GTS. The best part is that I got the donor car for $1K and have already recouped most of that money. The Celica came with all body parts and only needed a bracket re-welded to get back on the road. Thus it is being parted out.

So without further adieu, let the fun begin.

Ketchup in all of her glory when she was running...


Both cars nestled in their new home


The Celica after Weekend 1 of deconstruction
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,200 Posts
Discussion Starter #2 (Edited)
Link to where it all began...

Link to blown engine thread...

So the donor car is an 02' Celica GTS with an SMT. After doing some research, I've come to the conclusion that the ECU can be used in my 2zz/5-speed swap and could throw some cells, but should not affect the way the motor runs.

Is this correct? edit*This ECU will not work for the swap. See responses below.

Also, are the SMT transmissions worth anything? I'm parting out the Celica and if there is a need for the SMT transmission I'll try to sell it. Otherwise it will be sent to the scrap yard along with the rolling chassis. edit*Celicas come with an auto which is not the same as an SMT or the non-manual that came on the Spyder.

2ZZ-GE Engine Build (Minimum, NA-build)
Engine Internals:
- Engine must have:
o injectors, manifold
o throttle body with TPS
o coil pack plastics (bolt to head)
o accessory belt tensioner and pulley arm
Phase I:
x MWR 2zz OEM Lift Bolts
x MWR 2zz OEM Pistons
x MWR 2zz swap engine mount
x Sector111 gPan2
x CircuitWorx Oil Pump Gears
x (LAP) Toyota Water pump and 170 deg thermostat
x (LAP) Replacement Oil Pump
x (LAP) Gasket Set (full upper and lower)
x (LAP) OEM chain guide set, timing chain, OEM timing chain tensioner
- Custom exhaust (1 5/8” Primaries to 2.5" collector with reverse cone to 3", http://www.coneeng.com)
Phase II:
x MWR ARP head studs
x MWR ARP header, main, and rod fasteners
x MWR 2zz GE valve spring/retainer set
x MWR Stainless valves and Ferrea Valve locks
Phase III:
x MWR Wiseco 2zz 12.0:1 Pistons, Pins, Rings
x MWR Darton Sleeved Short Block

Engine Externals:
x Custom Dipstick
x AS Oil Cooler Kit (run lines to front and use larger Setrab Unit)
x Custom 3” CAI (using existing Injen Setup)
Drivetrain:
x TRD Helical LSD
x Toyota LSD Install Kit C6X
x MWR Fidanza 7.5 lb 2zz Flywheel
x ACT HDSS Clutch
x Mechanical Steering Rack
Tuning:
- Hydra EMS 2.7 (Nemesis)
Interior:
x Sparco EVO and Sparco Circuit Pro
x Schroth Profi-II Harnesses
x NRG v3.0 Quick Disconnect
x NRG Shorty Hub
x Momo Mod 30 320mm steering wheel​
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
8,376 Posts
I thought Celicas were automatic and not SMT.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,200 Posts
Discussion Starter #5
silversprint, I believe it is a regular auto not an SMT.

KB, a year ago I sold a 2000 2zz ECU. Sadly hind sight is 20/20 and I definitely jumped the gun on selling it.

With that said, since it is a regular auto, will the ECU work for my application or will I encounter problems? I have continued searching but have gotten mixed results.

edit* MWR specifically calls out a manual ECU
ECU - You can use a stock ECU from a 2000-01 Celica GTS MT or a 2ZZ Power FC depending on budget. PFC is obviously more fun. Note- if you use a European Celica 2ZZ ECU then you will need to take your car to the dealer to have the theft deterrent system programmed. MWR sells only US-sped stock ECUs which do not have this problem.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
8,376 Posts
You need a celica Manual ecu or a powerFC. Automatic ECU won't work.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,200 Posts
Discussion Starter #7
Thanks for the heads up silversprint. Just in the nick of time too.. managed to snag one off of fleaBay for less than I paid for my last one. Bonus of the night is that I broke even on the donor car. Going to spend this weekend ripping off the pricier bits and then it will go to the scrap yard.

Looking forward to the swap. Thanks everyone for your input thus far. I know I'll have more questions down the road.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
5,829 Posts
You want a '00MT ECU.. the Rev Limit is Higher..
the '01 has a Lowered Rev Limit.. but will work..
the '02 has a Same Rev Limit as the '01 but has a Two Wire Knock Sensor.
The'03 and Up has the Drive by Wire T-Body..

Cap
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,200 Posts
Discussion Starter #11 (Edited)
Yep, picked up a 2000 ecu. Now I need to remember to swap the knock sensor from my 1zz as the current knock sensor is a 2 wire a Cap Weir has stated. Man the tribal knowledge of you FOGs is incomprehensible. :lol: Thank you again!

edit* Oh god, where did all of the CircuitWorx Oil Pumps go!? Just got of the phone with MWR and it appears they are out of stock and do not have plans to carry them going forward. No date on restocking them either... damn. Guess I'm going to have to go with OEM.

The Toda gears look promising, but pricey.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,200 Posts
Discussion Starter #12 (Edited)
Well after a day of searching, it appears the CWX gears are still available in the UK for ~510 USD. But seeing as there have been a number of issues (clearance) and failures with these gears, I'm leaning towards the Toda Gears. I have contacted them with regards to their material specifications, rpm limitations, etc. and hope to receive a positive response in a few business days. I'll update this post when I receive a response.

edit* ended up contacting CWX directly and got a set. The second image shows the DNJ gears that came out of the rock-auto part I purchased and the top is the CWX.

 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,200 Posts
Discussion Starter #13 (Edited)
Gentlemen,

I have a few questions about the wiring of the motor for my particular application. I'll be referencing the ECU pin-outs found in the How-to Library.

From what I've gathered, the wires I need to modify are:
B12 - Take to chassis ground
B16 - Take to Spyder C8
B25 - Take to Spyder C9
C06 - Wire to OVL-
C07 - Wire to OVL+
C21 - Wire to VVTL Oil Pressure Switch
D28 - Knock Sensor Return Line

For my application I will be utilizing an '02 Motor with a '00 ECU.

For B12 - This seems straight forward and I can run a pin to a local chassis ground.

For B16 and B25, do I need to move the pins at the harness? This seems to be the most logical choice.

For C07, C08, and C21 - Does the 1zz harness have pins/wires for this and I simply need to extend the wires from the harness to the plug or do I need to salvage some pins from the donor car and create the wire leads.

The '00 ECU utilizes a two wire knock sensor. Is it best to wire in the 2 wire knock sensor to the factory ECU from my '02 motor? Or is it best to utilize the 1zz 1 wire knock sensor and if so, what wires do I need to run?

Just trying to sort this out prior to pulling the motor and swapping.

Thank you in advance once again.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
5,829 Posts
The '00 ECU uses a One Wire Knock Sensor.. Same as the Spyder.. You will need to Move the Knock Sensor Over from the 1ZZ.. The Knock Sensor Return is Only for the '02 and Up ECU's.. or the PFC if using a Two Wire Knock Sensor..

From what I remember, the Spyder harness will not have a Pin on C7 ( I think ).. either case, you will need to add ONE pin from a Donor Harness..

The rest of the P/S and the Like you can Ignore.. Runs without it..

EDIT:.. the Chart you are looking at was for Making a Swap Harness.. Not re-pinning the Spyder Harness.. So when it says 'Take to Spyder C9'.. it really is saying take the Wire from Spyder Harness C9 to this Celica ECU pin, if you are Repinning the Spyder Harness..

That is whay it seems a little Backwards..

Cap
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,200 Posts
Discussion Starter #16
From what I remember, the Spyder harness will not have a Pin on C7 ( I think ).. either case, you will need to add ONE pin from a Donor Harness..

Cap
I was a bit confused by the above statement. Are you saying I only need to run a wire for C7 for the OLV and I can ignore C8 and C21?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
8,376 Posts
The 1zz and 00' 2zz knock sensors are different. They are both 1 wire but 2zz knock sensor reads a lot more noise. I believe if you use the 1zz knock sensor with that celica ECU you will get a CEL or worse it will never read high enough to retard real knock. However I am not 100% sure about this. This is just my experience with logging the two sensors on my car.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,240 Posts
Just an FYi. I am running the 2ZZ (1) wire knock sensor with the 00’ Celica ECU and have zero issues.

Many others have used the 1ZZ nock sensor without issue. I just figured to use the 2ZZ knock sensor because for one, it’s matched to the ECU and because it’s more sensitive. I would imagine more sensitivity to knock would be better.

I know it’s expensive but I highly recommend getting the plug-n-play patch harness that MWR or DD Performance sells. I know it’s expensive but it’s worth it. Most commonly, the issues that come up when swapping are usually related to something electrical. To me it’s worth the 350 bucks.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
8,376 Posts
Lets say at 8K RPM the 1zz knock sensor reads 30 and the 2zz knock sensor reads 60. If the ECU you are using is programmed to recognize knock at +45 then it doesn't really do any thing with the 1zz knock sensor signal.

I agree. Use the knock sensor made for the ECU. You can pick one up cheap on ebay.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
8,376 Posts
If building a track car 2zz I suggest changing the thermostat to a TRD. A better clutch. Moroso pan?
 
1 - 20 of 228 Posts
Top