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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I got an alignment at a local dealership. They guy there told me that my right rear wheel alignment is off at -2.1 degrees. He stated that he didnt know the reason for the issue. I checked to see if any of the suspension components were bent but everything seems to be okay. I started having issues with alignment after changing my clutch I believe that was because I took off the lower control arms and I feel as though an alignment shouldve put it back to normal. Before the clutch replacement everything was fine. Has anyone had an issue like this before?
 

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Take it to a shop that specializes in alignments.

Dealership is the last place in the world I would trust for this work.
 

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Removing suspension parts changes alignment when put back on. As above, dealers are not the place to get good alignments, in fact many of them farm out the work and charge you with the "commission".
 

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I got an alignment at a local dealership. They guy there told me that my right rear wheel alignment is off at -2.1 degrees....
I am not following this. Are you saying that the alignment at the dealer shop was unsatisfactory, or are you trying to figure out why you needed an alignment in the first place? Or, are you saying that the dealer shop told you that they couldn't align it?
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
I am not following this. Are you saying that the alignment at the dealer shop was unsatisfactory, or are you trying to figure out why you needed an alignment in the first place? Or, are you saying that the dealer shop told you that they couldn't align it?
The dealership aligned 3 out of 4 wheels. On the forth wheel, they said that they couldn't fix the negative camber and that they didnt know the issue that was causing the camber not to be adjusted. Now I am trying to figure out the issue on my own. So if need be I can replace the parts and then get it aligned. But I cant diagnose the issue.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
The dealership aligned 3 out of 4 wheels. On the forth wheel, they said that they couldn't fix the negative camber and that they didnt know the issue that was causing the camber not to be adjusted. Now I am trying to figure out the issue on my own. So if need be I can replace the parts and then get it aligned. But I cant diagnose the issue. All in all your third sentence.
 

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The stock suspension does not have rear camber adjustment beyond what can be achieved by the slack between the crash bolts and the strut.

Two degrees of negative camber is not the end of the world, especially not as compared to the other side which is at -1.8. Camber does not cause significantly excessive tire wear - it is toe you have to watch out for for tire wear, and your toe alignments are fine. Let's say for example that you wanted a little bit more agressive camber to achieve more grip in tight corners - then both rear wheels as is would be in spec.

Just roll with it.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
The stock suspension does not have rear camber adjustment beyond what can be achieved by the slack between the crash bolts and the strut.

Two degrees of negative camber is not the end of the world, especially not as compared to the other side which is at -1.8. Camber does not cause significantly excessive tire wear - it is toe you have to watch out for for tire wear, and your toe alignments are fine. Let's say for example that you wanted a little bit more agressive camber to achieve more grip in tight corners - then both rear wheels as is would be in spec.

Just roll with it.
I shouldve mentioned my problem earlier. I'm trying to fix my alignment now because I have inner tire wear on that wheel and everytime I brake at high speed it feels as if the tires are breaking loose, it feels similar to fishtailing. I figured the alignment must be the problem but I very well may be wrong.
 

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You had a lot of toe on that LR tire from the start. Many ppl run -2 degrees of camber with no impact on braking as you describe. Alignment is one of those things that the numbers don't need to be perfect, but more improtantly they should be balanced on each side of the car. You can see how unbalanced your initial alignment was in the rear.
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Also when it "fishtails" it doesnt go back and forth. It sways to one side and then goes back straight once I release the brake. Maybe there is some air in my break line and it causing uneven pressure to the calipers I did upgrade to SS brake lines some time ago.
 

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I suggest you go back and check every bolt having anything to do with the rear suspension, especially the trailing arms.
 

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Also when it "fishtails" it doesnt go back and forth. It sways to one side and then goes back straight once I release the brake. Maybe there is some air in my break line and it causing uneven pressure to the calipers I did upgrade to SS brake lines some time ago.
Look at your thrust angle prior to alignment.
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 · (Edited)
You had a lot of toe on that LR tire from the start. Many ppl run -2 degrees of camber with no impact on braking as you describe. Alignment is one of those things that the numbers don't need to be perfect, but more improtantly they should be balanced on each side of the car. You can see how unbalanced your initial alignment was in the rear.
Look at your thrust angle prior to alignment.
What does that tell me? The thrust angle now is 0.
 

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The bad toe is most likely the whole problem. The toe does not just affect the tire wear. It affects total vehicle handling, and if it is wrong enough, it can make the car violently unstable. For example, if you have rear toe-out, you have oversteer that is coupled to vehicle roll.
 

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according to the alignment sheet the rear toe is now good. It seems this is the sequence of events here.

No suspension problems or tire wear

Clutch replaced with suspension parts removed

Rear tire wear and odd movement in rear

Alignment preformed with correct rear toe but still has odd movement in rear

I suspect a loose trailing arm bolt for the odd movement and tire wear due to bad toe after clutch was replaced. Toe does effect how the car handles and it can be big time. I expect a loose trailing arm to be noticed on braking or hard accel. I expect bad rear toe to be very noticeable in a turn but not so much in straight line braking.
 

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The stock suspension does not have rear camber adjustment beyond what can be achieved by the slack between the crash bolts and the strut.

Two degrees of negative camber is not the end of the world, especially not as compared to the other side which is at -1.8. Camber does not cause significantly excessive tire wear - it is toe you have to watch out for for tire wear, and your toe alignments are fine. Let's say for example that you wanted a little bit more agressive camber to achieve more grip in tight corners - then both rear wheels as is would be in spec.

Just roll with it.
What you are saying is true for the front but not for the rear. The rear lower lateral link has an adjuster on the inboard end just for adjusting camber!

Dave
 

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Typical dealer alignment. If the numnbers are anywhere near tolerace
Take it to a shop that specializes in alignments.

Dealership is the last place in the world I would trust for this work.
Agreed. A suspension / alignment specialist would take time to find out why the camber was off, even if that required loosening the suspension and re-torquing. But the fact the front camber is different side to side by .5 degree is a bit curious.
 
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