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Discussion Starter #1
I have a stage 1 cams in my garage waiting to be installed.

It's hard to install them?

any tips from somebody already have mounted the cams in his baby??

thanks in advance...


(sorry for my ugly english)
 

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They are bolt-in's, you will have to feeler gauge the valve lash and order new buckets as needed which can be a pain, and you will have to unlock the VVT actuator or it will cause a CEL and no VVT. Other than that its pretty straight forward. Be sure to follow standard procedure for loosening and tightening the cam cap bolts, and get a new gasket for the valve cover.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
They are bolt-in's, you will have to feeler gauge the valve lash and order new buckets as needed which can be a pain, and you will have to unlock the VVT actuator or it will cause a CEL and no VVT. Other than that its pretty straight forward. Be sure to follow standard procedure for loosening and tightening the cam cap bolts, and get a new gasket for the valve cover.


Did you hear a different sound from your engine after cams installations?

Did you do the break-in of 40 min. at 2000rpms that is recommended by crower?

Did you need any special tool?

Do you know if there is a "howto" somewhere in the net as a guide?


Thanks for your fast reply!
 

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Could you explain what you mean by unlock?
You don't need to do anything different to the VVTi actuator then you would if you were replacing with stock cams.

FWIW, I think I removed mine, since I was doing P&P and machine work, and put it back in again.
 

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Did you hear a different sound from your engine after cams installations?

Did you do the break-in of 40 min. at 2000rpms that is recommended by crower?

Did you need any special tool?

Do you know if there is a "howto" somewhere in the net as a guide?


Thanks for your fast reply!
There is a nice little lope at idle with the cams and my PPE set-up.

Always follow recommended breakin and use the grease.

not any special tools that I remember other than feeler gauges, I wouldn't consider those "special."

No how-to that I know of, search.

follow the posted link to newcelica for unlocking the VVT actuator, be patient it can be a royal pain.

If you haven't built a head or engine in the past I wouldn't recommend doing this on your own, let us know how it went and what you think of the new cams. I suggest you get the tightest in-spec tolerance possible for valve lash.
 

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You do need to open and torque the cam bolts in specific order, so don't start the job without factory manual (or other instructions).
 

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Discussion Starter #10 (Edited)
There is the crower specs of the cams that MWR ships to me.

Do you think it's OK?


It's not shown in the picture but the part number is:

61451-2

I bought and payed for a stage 1 cams 264/264 but take a look at this:




What do you think? I've been cheated?
 

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Call Crower, maybe they did a little tweaking.
 

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It looks like the lift from where the duration is measured is different for the exhaust and the intake. Depending on what amount of lift you measure duration from it will change the amount of duration. I know most domestic cams are measured at .050 of lift, but that is for a pushrod engine.
 

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It looks like the lift from where the duration is measured is different for the exhaust and the intake. Depending on what amount of lift you measure duration from it will change the amount of duration. I know most domestic cams are measured at .050 of lift, but that is for a pushrod engine.
The Crower web site gives the advertised duration as .264/.264, so I think his question is, are these the cams he ordered?

I don't know. But since I'm ordering a set, I'm interested.
 

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Kinda reminds me of when I ordered wiseco pistons from MWR that are advertised on their website as having an anti-friction coating ("All pistons have coated skirts for low friction and extra long life"), then when I actually unwrapped them a few months later I saw that I received pistons without any coating. :rolleyes:
 

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dblazer, you're right. The duration at .050 on the posted spec sheet doesn't match the specs by crower found on there site. the duration of the exhaust cam looks closer to the stage 2, while the duration of the exhaust is still closer to the stage 1 cams.
 

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mmmm

just try to searh at:

http://www.crower.com/misc/cam_spec/

for part number 61451-2

it show exactly the same specs that I have.


I'm totally lost.
The specs given on the MWR website for this part number are different.

[CRO-61451-2] $425.00
Crower Cam Set - Toyota 1ZZ-FE - Stage 1

The Stage 1 is a great bolt-in solution for someone looking for a power boost for their daily driver.

Specs are: 264/264 duration, .379/.367" Lift

Something's odd, for sure.
 

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Those cams the OP has can't be 264/264 duration, .379/.367" Lift. The cam sheet's specs have it at 268/260 duration .374/.347" lift. Without knowing exactly how the ramps are shaped you can't tell what the 264/264 cam would be at the other duration or vice versa, but you can tell that the intake duration is definitely longer and the exhaust may or may not be. With this the OP's cams should produce power a little higher in the rpm range than the 264/264 cam.
 

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Discussion Starter #20
Finally the cams are installed and working.

The idle is perfect after doing an initialization of the PFC.

For me, there is not a more throaty sound, but you could hear the valvetrain more than before.

They offer a slight increase in performance between 3500-6000 rpms and the AFR barely changed. It feels like a 5hp upgrade.

I thought they allow to enter more air than before and lean the mixture, but not.

Maybe I should have to clean the apexi filter of my PPE Intake.

After I smooth my base map in the PFC I'll go to a dyno.

Till now I have the PFC+Datalogit, PPE headers with no cat, TTE exhaust and the PPE intake.

I expect and 15-20hp increase with all these mods.

Best regards from Spain!
 
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