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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
First post!

So got my 1st spyder (2000) about a month ago, only 53000 km so its been mostly in a garage.
Been working on the sitting-problems that came with it, and regular service.

The engine recently came up with a knocking sound. It only appears on idle when the car is warm.
You can hear the sound in this youtube video: MR2 spyder/roadster knocking sound

Followed the sticky guide and came up with the Oil Control Valve. Took it out but it had no filters to clean? It looks like in the attached picture, maybe its the wrong one? Or another problem of course.

Also took out the chain tensioner and reset it without any improvement.

Ideas?

Edit 1:
So the filter is located below the OCV. Back at it another day.
All input still welcome though.

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Discussion Starter · #2 ·
So... got the filter out yesterday, and can cross it of the bucket list (never wanna do /that/ again...).

The trick was to be using a plier, holding a crocodile clamp at 90 degree angle.

Filter was pretty much clean. Testdrive today without any improvement.

Have ordered a new OCV.
  • Replace chain tensioner?
  • Replace water pump?
  • Replace alternator?

Thoughts?
 

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I don't care what anyone else says, it is not possible to diagnose an engine noise from a youtube video.

That said.

Take the accessory belt off, see if the noise goes away. Long shot.

Get a mechanic stethoscope and hunt for the source of the noise.

Disconnect the coils one by one, see if the noise is associated with one cylinder.

Take the valve cover off, have a look underneath for anything that does not look right, then check the valve clearances.
 

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It kind of sounds like a bad pulley, maybe idler pulley, tensioner pulley, a/c pulley? The noise does become louder as the camera moves to the front of the engine. Is that a charcoal canister there?
 

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So there is no sound/noise engine cold (high idle) but only on wamed engine (low rpm).
Can it just be a plastic sound from the Evap Charcoal canister on top of the passenger engine mount?
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Thank you for your input(s)! Im deeply grateful.

> Take the accessory belt off, see if the noise goes away. Long shot.
Thats simple and brilliant. It did! (Yey!)

> Get a mechanic stethoscope and hunt for the source of the noise.
Tried this earlier. No fancy stethoscope but tried a hose. Kinda hard to tell, but my money would have been on the alternator.

> Is that a charcoal canister there?
@Funnyman just taught me its an Evap Charcoal canister :) .

> ... what is the sound like when you speed up, say drive in 2nd gear around 2,5/3K rpm? Does this evolve into an irritating whining sound?
No, it goes disappears directly above (low) idle.

> Can it just be a plastic sound from the Evap Charcoal canister on top of the passenger engine mount?
Held my hand on it, no difference.

To summarize current status;
The knocking disappears when belt is removed. So either pulley(s), alternator, water pump or AC compressor.

I have ordered those parts (except AC compressor), and will replace them one by one starting with the pulleys.

Ill update when I know more. Thank you again!
 

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Thank you for your input(s)! Im deeply grateful.

> Take the accessory belt off, see if the noise goes away. Long shot.
Thats simple and brilliant. It did! (Yey!)
At this point spin the pulleys (alternator, ac, wp, idler, tensioner) 1 by 1. See which one makes noise or turns rough.

Check the motion of the belt tensioner. From my experience, jammed tensioner is the most likely cause of your noise in this situation..

Inspect the belt. Damaged belt can also cause noise.

Good luck.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 · (Edited)
Alternator: no noise, no flex
AC: no noise, no flex
Waterpump: no noise, no flex
Idle pulley: little noise, flex (probably bad)
Tensioner pulley: noise, no flex (probably bad)

Have removed the belt about 10 times by now, and the function of tensioner seems smooth.
Belt is new.

So… Ill start with the pulleys :) .
Although the idle pulley seems to have some sort of weird bolt-head. Maybe not ment to be replaced? Seems to come with the tensioner.
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 · (Edited)
Again, thank you all for input!

It is not the pulleys that are the problem, it is the bearing on the shaft that the pulley is turning.
Since Im inpatient man, I tried to press the bearing out from the pulley in hope of a standard-sized bearing (figured the bearing was done anyway). Long story short; that's as far as I got. The bearing does not seem standard at all.

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It is a different bolt. With the proper tool, you can replace it in the car. Or you can try vise grips.😄
Got it out with minor damages. Thinking of welding on a standard nut to this one, or does anyone know what this bolt head is called?

Edit 1: Kinda looks like a torx, maybe e-torx.
Going to try those first.
Edit 2: So its a Polydrive/RIBE.

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Buddy look at the damper at the end of the tensioner arm. It has a bushing that wears out. This causes noise. Release the damper from the stud. Check for wiggle.
Great input! Took the whole arm out since the weird bolt. Cant see or measure any difference in diameter between 6-12 (oclock) and 3-9.

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
So... update.

Replaced the idle- and tensioner pulley (with bearings). Actually got a bit better, but not 100%.
My money is still on the alternator, based on direction of sound/noise. Going to replace it when it shows up (its probably faster to get parts for a Koeningsegg than a Toyota here, at least if you prefer your Toyota parts reasonably priced).

Regarding bushings and so on, the hole for the main bolt struck me as quite large for the bolt. No sign of wear.
This made me wonder though... Wouldnt call it a rattle but maybe its semanics.

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In other news; Replaced the RIBE-bolt with a standard headed one from the drawer of left-over bolts since 20 years (you all got one of those I guess :) ).

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
Does your e-mail adress have a swedish car manufacturer in it? If so I got it from you :) . (Thanks again btw.)

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