[millitcnc]

Update!
So, replaced both alternator and water pump. No difference.

While I was under the car I inspected the AC-compressor a bit closer. Seems the outer wheel (pulley?) has a bit of play sideways. Is it possible to replace this without removing compressor (and the gas in the system)?

Next step though is to replace the tensioner/arm assembly according to the service bulletin mentioned earlier.

 

[millitcnc]

Update!
So while I waited for the tensioner assembly, I decided to replace the bearing for the AC-pulley. It was a bit fiddly but could be done without dropping the AC-compressor. No change .

Finally the tensioner assembly showed up. Took maybe 15 min to install and torque. Took a test drive and behold! It seems to solved the problem, although I want a few more test drives to be sure. It was quite a big difference between the old and the new tensioner, the new one was a lot harder.
So lesson learned; scroll the service bulletins first .

At least I got a spare (used) alternator, new AC bearing, new waterpump, new idle pulley, checked OCV and OCV-filter and so on…

Thank you all for your help. Ill update after a few test drives.

 

[suoiruc]

Update!
So while I waited for the tensioner assembly, I decided to replace the bearing for the AC-pulley. It was a bit fiddly but could be done without dropping the AC-compressor.

Where did you get the bearing? Part number?

 

[millitcnc]

According to suppliers website, its a ”standard AC bearing”, Nachi 30BGS32DST 30x52x20.
Found it in a local (Swedish) webshop; AC 30x52x20 Kompressorlager . But just Google the bearing number.

Tip;
After replacing the bearing you need to check the clearence (see repair manual AC-53/54). If you are doing this without dropping the AC compressor, its too tight for a dial indicator. But just use a feeler gauge, works fine. You still need to hook up the wires though.
Of course my clearence was off by about 0.6 mm, so I dug down into the drawer of forgotten bolts and nuts and found one . The shims has the same size as a standard M6 washer.

 

[suoiruc]

According to suppliers website, its a ”standard AC bearing”, Nachi 30BGS32DST 30x52x20.
Found it in a local (Swedish) webshop; AC 30x52x20 Kompressorlager . But just Google the bearing number.

Tip;
After replacing the bearing you need to check the clearence (see repair manual AC-53/54). If you are doing this without dropping the AC compressor, its too tight for a dial indicator. But just use a feeler gauge, works fine. You still need to hook up the wires though.
Of course my clearence was off by about 0.6 mm, so I dug down into the drawer of forgotten bolts and nuts and found one . The shims has the same size as a standard M6 washer.
View attachment 91635

Thanks for the detailed information!
This confirms what I was able to find after asking the question.

 

[millitcnc]

Update!
Lots of driving this weekend and still no knocking.
So case closed! Yey!

 

[MerryFrankster]

Just of curiousity, if someone were completely clueless, would they possibly call your tensioner noise "bubbling," instead of "knocking?" Asking for a friend

 

[millitcnc]

Sorry for your friend :/ .

With a risk of being lost in linguistic nuances, I would say no. I would definitly describe it as a knocking or a metallic sound. Maybe strech it to a rattling since it was intermittent. Not very far from a rattling (Saab) cam chain.
Would say the video pretty much does it justice.

Still dont know exactly where the noise came from, which is a bit odd. Perhaps the (actual) tensioner.