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Another SMT Fluid question

2698 Views 20 Replies 10 Participants Last post by  03txspyder
Hello spyderchat, I’ve owned an MR2 for about 3 years and have been lurking on this site ever since but this is my first posting. There’s a lot of good info here and I appreciate it, keep it coming!

We bought our 04 MR2 with SMT about 3 years ago from a guy in Pittsburg and drove it home to MN. It’s been a great “economy” car as we call it and has been stored winters. I tried driving it after the first snow after we bought it and it’s been stored winters ever since!

Other than tires and a new battery it’s been a fun-to drive and low maintenance vehicle. I have noticed that sometimes it’s slow shifting into reverse. Last week I checked for error codes and found a freeze frame code P0942. Even though the SMT fluid is not listed as one of the known problems I removed everything to check it anyway. I found the reservoir on the low side, down to the seam in the reservoir and the fluid is brownish in color.

Now my dilemma is obtaining a “little” SMT fluid to top it off without spending $150 for a whole liter. Of course none of the Toyota dealers in town carry it. Since there is so little of it around it must be for a reason: there are very few SMT’s around, they use up very little fluid or people have found a good substitute?

I see quite a few references to using DOT 4, how is that going and are there any other recommended fluids or sources of the official stuff at a more reasonable price

Thanks


2004 MR2, SMT, Blue with Blk, 45K mi, 100% stock
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Dot 4 is a good replacement (or equal to the expensive SMT-fluid). And why know one heard of the SMT-fluid is probably because the system just works with no faults on the majority of cars. There isn't even any maintenance of the fluid so it's probably supposed to just work the hole lifespan of the car as long as no leakage appear. Seems logical because there isn't any real wear of the oil. It doesn't get warm like in a brake system. It just get pressurised and as long as the reservoir tank isn't empty when the pressure has build up I don't think that any top up is necessary.
I don't know what code 0942 is.
Brownish SMT fluid sounds like it has absorbed moisture. Fresh fluid looks just like brake fluid - light amber color. I think it's a good idea to change the fluid out as a maintenance item. It's your choice on the fluid, either DOT4 (read the archives for opinions), or Dealer fluid. The cheapest source I found for Dealer SMT fluid was 1stToyota.com in Washington state for $115 shipped.
I have used DOT 4 for a few months with no problems.
P0942 is Hydralic pressure unit. When opening the drivers door in the morning the pump should sound for not more than 30 sec i think. But that freeze frame code could just be a hick up and nothing serious. The SMT semms to live it's own life some times.

I can send you my manual for my ODB2 reader. At the end in the PDF all error codes are explained.
Thanks for the replies!

Thanks for the replies!
I found First Toyota on-line but couldn't get a shipping est. I will give them a call tomorrow.
Thanks also for the offer for the manual but I already have a set of hard-copies. Yes, P0942 is HPU and it lists 7 trouble areas but none of them are checking the fluid level. Common sense told me to check the fluid!
I will try to post a picture of the fluid in a syringe. I'd appreciate comments about how dark it looks.
Even though I don't want to spend a lot of $ I'm inclined to go with the factory fluid, especially if I can get it at least a little better price. After all we plan on keeping the MR2 a long time.

Thanks Again!

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*edit* double post
Thanks for the replies!
I found First Toyota on-line but couldn't get a shipping est. I will give them a call tomorrow.
Thanks also for the offer for the manual but I already have a set of hard-copies. Yes, P0942 is HPU and it lists 7 trouble areas but none of them are checking the fluid level. Common sense told me to check the fluid!
I will try to post a picture of the fluid in a syringe. I'd appreciate comments about how dark it looks.
Even though I don't want to spend a lot of $ I'm inclined to go with the factory fluid, especially if I can get it at least a little better price. After all we plan on keeping the MR2 a long time.

Thanks Again!

Being that I went through a whole can of the expensive dealer ship stuff and still had problems...
and then used the dot 4 just to get me by...and never had a problem again...
I'd go with the dot 4.

and as for the color, strait out of the can the fluid looks like vegetable oil. I can't tell by the tint of the camera how dark yours really is.

factory can cost me something like 180 if I remember correctly, it was more than the price I saw posted on the forums.
dot 4 was something like 5 bucks?

doesn't get any better price than that. 4k miles later no problems.
I researched this just a few weeks ago. I found the cheapest place to buy the toyota fluid was thru Sears.com, but it was still like 80 bucks or so.


Edit: I found this link to Amazon buried in a fluid discussion, this is same stuff I saw at Sears: http://www.amazon.com/Toyota-Genuine.../dp/B004SL889W
RR363. Cheaper when it can it can be found, exact match to the SMT fluid, but so rare the rolls royce guys just started mixing their own by putting castor oil into dot3. Their break system is run by engine pistons so the castor oil is required for heat purposes, ours not so much since we only use small electric pumps that only run for a few seconds at a time.
I just ordered the amazon stuff. The part number is correct for SMT fluid. Guess I'll see if it arrives in a metal can like the Toyota dealer sends, or a plastic bottle like the picture shows.
good news

I researched this just a few weeks ago. I found the cheapest place to buy the toyota fluid was thru Sears.com, but it was still like 80 bucks or so.


Edit: I found this link to Amazon buried in a fluid discussion, this is same stuff I saw at Sears: http://www.amazon.com/Toyota-Genuine.../dp/B004SL889W

I just recieved my order from amazon. $43...and it is the original Toyota can! nice price drop.
Ooh, me too! I just got the box today. It's the real stuff in the metal can. I paid $130 from the dealer and only $45 for this one from amazon.

June 1, 2012 update:
Amazon still has the correct fluid. *link* Except it's now $113/can! Dang it!
How much fluid is neeed?

Guys, I know this question is related to an old thread, but, if I'm lucky, one of you can answer this...How much SMT HPU fluid is needed to re-fill the resevoir (assuming I use a vampire pump to draw out the old fluid)? I ask because my mechanic is telling me it will take 2 liters (which makes me think he's looking at the amount needed for the SMT Transaxle.
Guys, I know this question is related to an old thread, but, if I'm lucky, one of you can answer this...How much SMT HPU fluid is needed to re-fill the resevoir (assuming I use a vampire pump to draw out the old fluid)? I ask because my mechanic is telling me it will take 2 liters (which makes me think he's looking at the amount needed for the SMT Transaxle.
It takes about 1/3 liter to fill the reservoir after sucking it dry. I sucked the fluid out, cycled the system and refilled twice from the same can. I have some left in case it needs to be topped up.
fluid question

Any problems mixing both of them? Pm me so I can find out. Thanks sc.
No. Suck the old out and add fresh DOT4.
sorry to be a joke to you guys, when you guys said DOT4, is it mean the normal brake fluid?cheers
There is DOT3 and DOT4. Use DOT4. It will say which it is on the bottle. It's just brake fluid but is very similar to SMT fluid.
There is DOT3 and DOT4. Use DOT4. It will say which it is on the bottle. It's just brake fluid but is very similar to SMT fluid.
I guess I was a chump when I bought the Toyta SMT fluid for crap-loads more $$ than basic DOT4. Replacing the fluid did seem to resolve the Spyder's 1st gear lurching issues, but only for about 7 months. The problem is back. Toyota dealership tells me the problem is a bad ECU. Odd...I have not read (on Spyderchat) any posts where other's with the lurching issue had a diagnosis of a bad ECU. More to follow...
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