[Steve Miller]

I've searched anti-sway and sway bars on spyderchat and I really didn't find anything current or relevant to my question.

So, my 2001 has a 2ZZ engine, TRD brace set, and ECSTA PA31's w/OEM wheels. I'm more of a highway driver, not a "spirited" driver. E.g., back in 1979-1980 when I joined the Army I drove an MGB from Mass to Cali then to Texas. First car was a 383 CI Fury, which did 100 the day I got my license. Regardless, I was playing wingman yesterday with a Corvette; topped out at around 104 mph, which I know I shouldn't do unless I want to get the pants off a girl, but I figure I need to have a little fun with the car before the leukemia gets me (so far doing well, had six rounds of treatment, and with luck the oncologist puts me on oral rituxin on 19 August), and I turn 71 next week.

Anyhow, while in the 90 mph range, I do feel a little sway, nothing major, but I feel the ride could be better. Tires are new in the back, front around 5k miles, so plenty of tread.

Solutions/comments on the value of anti-sway bars? Otherwise, do I need to go 16-17 inch rims, coilovers, etc, or just slow down, which is boring.

Peace

 

[TravisW/VividRacing]

Removing the body roll you could go coil overs and sway bars. My car feels absolutely planted on the track at those speeds but I'm also on a 15x9 and 245.

I have the hook up on both coil overs and swaybars! Shoot me a pm if you are interested

 

[OldMan]

Some time in 2001, Toyota started equipping Spyders with a chin spoiler. If you don't have one, that's part of your problem. Without the spoiler, the car begins to wander at about 60mph.

The part number is 76851-17070.
I installed mine with some humongous plastic rivets ("clips" in Toyota parlance) I found at ACE Hardware. They have 3/8" shafts and 1" heads. I don't know what ACE calls them, but they're in the plastic fastener section.

 

[firebert]

If you want more high speed stability in a straight line, start by looking at your alignment. Add a bit of toe in if necessary. Adding caster will help as well but that would involve changing bushings as it's not adjustable from the factory

 

[Petrus]

Anyhow, while in the 90 mph range, I do feel a little sway,

Define ´sway´.

Sway bars, aka anti roll bars only counteract body roll.

Straight line instability can have several causes.

Wallowing/´floating´ through corners too.

Lastly, the concept of a mid engine can appéar instable at higher speeds. This again can be tackled several ways.

The chin lip mentioned is a very simple one which reduces the lift under the front (see photo) and with that a good part of the ´light´ feeling.

Oh and OEM wheels, tyre specs are best for the car.

 

[Steve Miller]

There's plenty of 76851-17070 out there for ~ $50. Yes, this is more wandering and floating and not the roll. I'll give that a try, then next year, the coil overs and sway bars, (after the Mororso oil pan). Just dropped around a grand getting DENSO coils installed, plus a CV axle assembly and wheel bearing (mo' money) plus fender flares on a 2012 Silverado, and a front bearing on a 2007 Corolla, plus insurance payment coming up. It's amazing that my wife can afford this - not. The tires always wear evenly, so perhaps alignment is not an issue, and I just had it in shop and alignment checked out. I'll need to research caster (and toe).

Thanks all.

 

[rmeller]

Sway bars are not really about body roll. They are about tuning the stability of the car. More stiffness in front will increase understeer, more stiffness in back will increase oversteer. What causes the sway you are talking about? Is this connected with cornering or maneuvering? Worn out struts will cause overshoot on body response, which you would perceive as sway.

As far as straight line stability, alignment is critical, and that is the most common problem. Also consider the aerodynamic issue mentioned above.

 

[Petrus]

then next year, the coil overs

I suggest new stock shock & springs first.

And, só obvious it is often overlooked, alignment. Make sure the alignment is spot on.

@Meller; ARBs are very much about reducing body roll: That is what they dó and yes they are by there nature also instrumental in understeer/oversteer balance.
Taking it one step further, their prime practical function is.... ´increasing´ overall grip by reducing body roll. Between brackets because they don´t actually íncrease it but by limiting the load increase on the outer tyres a bit, those lose less traction because of tyre load sensitivity. Presto; less traction lost on the outside is less loss in overall traction.
And thát is why you can also play with them to increase/decrease overall thus relative front/rear traction.
I think them übercool.

The príce is some less conformation by defacto stiffening the suspension. Not much of an issue on a racing track or otherwise smooth surfaces but on real world roads... it is a cost.

Anyway, not a thing for Steve Miller quite yet

 

[Steve Miller]

A lot of good information here; thanks all.

I am first going to get the front spoiler, the least expensive option for now, albeit a necessity. I am looking at straight-line speed as my issue apparanly seems to be wandering/floating. The brace set I have is PTR04-17001-02. When I had it installed, I noticed a remarkable difference in cornering/turning.

Regarding alignment, I was sure I had this done when I had the CV assembly installed and new rear tires in May. Alignment results attached and I welcome comments.

 

[Petrus]

Good thinking with the alignment. That is one thing off the list.

So first get the front lip under the bumper skirt. Should be dirt cheap. You can use rubber strip from Ebay listed as front lip. It has self adhesive strip and all you need is 4 self tappers to secure it.

Next is a rubber lip on the rear bum ríght after the engine lid. This will provide a break off edge for the rear turbulence and reduce the unrest in the steering wheel.
Again dirt cheap on ebay listed as rear lip.
Below is the best photo I have of mine.
(ignore the silly big wing; mine is well under 900 kgs and áwefully light under the front so needs it like the fletches on an arrow)

You will be surprised how much it does.

Now if you still want more, a third véry cheap one is cut two vents in the hood. This again reduces the lift under the front provided you take/have the vanity plastic out. Photo below too.

There ís a fourth dirt cheap one but that, even though it works and I can explain why, will see me lynched here so do the above ones first.

 

[Steve Miller]

Good thinking with the alignment. That is one thing off the list.

So first get the front lip under the bumper skirt. Should be dirt cheap. You can use rubber strip from Ebay listed as front lip. It has self adhesive strip and all you need is 4 self tappers to secure it.

Next is a rubber lip on the rear bum ríght after the engine lid. This will provide a break off edge for the rear turbulence and reduce the unrest in the steering wheel.
Again dirt cheap on ebay listed as rear lip.
Below is the best photo I have of mine.
(ignore the silly big wing; mine is well under 900 kgs and áwefully light under the front so needs it like the fletches on an arrow)

You will be surprised how much it does.

Now if you still want more, a third véry cheap one is cut two vents in the hood. This again reduces the lift under the front provided you take/have the vanity plastic out. Photo below too.

There ís a fourth dirt cheap one but that, even though it works and I can explain why, will see me lynched here so do the above ones first.

So here' s what I found on Ebay under rear lip for MR2 Spyder: Duraflex TD3000 Rear Lip Under Air Dam for 2000-2005 MRS MR2 Spyder

Doesn't appear to match your picture of the part "right after the engine lid." I don't think I'll be getting a wing for now, not that you suggested it, since I occasionally use this car as a weekend getaway car with the wife, and lash a rack and secure a 6.5 cubic ft. luggage bag to it; wins cool points with the wife. Iirc, I think it was Mr. "Old Man" who posted a picture of a green Spyder with a rmodified roof rack and I copied the design. Similarly with the hood vents, the MR2 is still for sale, so I'd like to keep the Spyder intact, and let a potential buyer decide what to do.

The front and rear lips however, are nice as they are not as obvious or "ostentatious," if I may. Also, since the driving season up here in New England is not as long as in the South or California due to icing and fall foliage, I'm more interested in moderately equipping the car for bi-monthly "straight line" interstate driving over the winter months to exercise the car, when due to snow and icing the back roads are a death wish.

 

[Petrus]

@Steve Miller

plenty of rubber strips like
Fits 100 Inch Nissan Rubber Foam Front Bumper Lip Splitter Spoiler Trim EZ | eBay

For the rear too.

Simple and cheap under your fingers.

If you don´t already have that, I suggest you store the tool roll in the spare wheel well too and keep the washer bottle topped up.
For winter use you may even want to add an iron gym weight.
It will slow down directional changes at the front, mellow it.

First the rubber strips though.

And I wrote IGNORE the silly big wing. My car/use is not a yard stick for you/your use.


p.s. for the winter roads you mention I strongly suggest a second set or OEM size rims with proper winter tyres (less wide and higher section).

 

[SDSUsnowboards]

In my experience, the number one cause of "sway," which I assume is a term meant to describe a feeling of instability at speed when traveling in a straight line, is the condition of the tires. If they are in good condition and inflated to the correct pressure (28 psi front!, and 32 psi rear - overinfalted tires will make the car feel unsettlingly unstable at speed and almost every mechanic shop will overinflate them), then it is probably...

If you want more high speed stability in a straight line, start by looking at your alignment. Add a bit of toe in if necessary. Adding caster will help as well but that would involve changing bushings as it's not adjustable from the factory

This! You shouldn't be having stability problems at 90 mph. Some additional toe-in in the front and rear ought to make the car feel more trustworthy.

Some time in 2001, Toyota started equipping Spyders with a chin spoiler. If you don't have one, that's part of your problem. Without the spoiler, the car begins to wander at about 60mph.

This could also be a contributing factor, trailing behind the alignment. I added a OEM chin skirt and did notice the front end seemed to track a little more straight, wilth all else remaining equal.

I'd ignore any advice about putting aero pieces on the hood or the back of the car. An OEM spyder is not unstable at speed and you don't need to go modding it and making it look like a virginmobile to feel safe.

 

[OldMan]

Iirc, I think it was Mr. "Old Man" who posted a picture of a green Spyder with a rmodified roof rack and I copied the design.

Several SpyderChat members have posted about engine lid mounted luggage racks, but I'm not one of them. I rarely carry any cargo other than a coat stored in the cubby behind the seats and a small "survival kit" in the frunk.

On this thread's original topic:
All Spyders came with rectangular "spats" in front of the front wheels. They add stability and should not be removed, but owners have been known to remove them anyway. If yours are missing, replace them. Here is a low resolution image (best I could find) of a 2000 ad extolling them.

 

[Petrus]

you don't need to go modding it and making it look like a virginmobile to feel safe.

See?! @Steve Miller

There is no pleasing everyone here.

To mé the world is a more fun place with as much different approaches/tastes as possible.

Back to the topic; You go ahead as yoú please. My suggestions are just that; suggestions. Very easy/cheap ones at that so you can trý and like it or not without breaking the piggy bank.

The wheel ´spats´ Old Man refers to are a perfect illustration of the huge effect of minor aero changes. You draw your own conclusions

Have fun!!!!

 

[Steve Miller]

Several SpyderChat members have posted about engine lid mounted luggage racks, but I'm not one of them. I rarely carry any cargo other than a coat stored in the cubby behind the seats and a small "survival kit" in the frunk.

Regarding the storage space, I did read once that if you're planning a weekend getaway, go to a nudist camp.

Apologize for the luggage rack call-out. It was a grey hair like myself that posted the photo; anyhow the rack I use works well and hasn't failed me yet. I'll post a pic one of these days.

Thanks re the spats. Here's an old spyderchat thread. Seems to be enough info on the internet for research.

 

[Petrus]

You can double the practical luggage space by taking the cubby doors out.

Btw very funny that referral as this Thusrday we are off to www.fincajohanna.com for a week. It is only an hour down to the coast but still nice to change venue and why go further when you líve in just about ideal holiday country?!

 

[Steve Miller]

See?! @Steve Miller

There is no pleasing everyone here.

To mé the world is a more fun place with as much different approaches/tastes as possible.

It is the essence of the epistemological debate between empiricism and rationalism.

I'm going with the front spoiler Old Man brought up for starters. Question is am I the only one who took a look at his Spyder to see it they overlooked the presence of spats?

 

[Petrus]

It is the essence of the epistemological debate between empiricism and rationalism.

Even if véry strictly based on hard facts ´it´ is about as diverse as individual people because we all use the car to suit our own purpose. Never mind the variations in capability/experience.
Take the set up of the Spirit MR-S. As fast a Touge rocket as it was so horrible to drive it would be for nearly all mortals drivers

Now add taste and WOW!!!
The exhaust and tip of mine (you can just make out the bell mouth inlet too) 😍

 

[SDSUsnowboards]

See?! @Steve Miller

There is no pleasing everyone here.

To mé the world is a more fun place with as much different approaches/tastes as possible.

Back to the topic; You go ahead as yoú please. My suggestions are just that; suggestions. Very easy/cheap ones at that so you can trý and like it or not without breaking the piggy bank.

The wheel ´spats´ Old Man refers to are a perfect illustration of the huge effect of minor aero changes. You draw your own conclusions

Have fun!!!!

I tease you in good fun. There are some older pictures of my first mr2 on here somewhere, which I began modding in my early 20’s, and predictably I made some questionable choices both aesthetically and functionally. Granted, not on the same level of disaster that is your set of decisions, but im sure there are plenty of opportunities to have some fun at my expense, on which I will join you if the ball gets rolling.

Don’t feel bad. I am very difficult to please. I can’t even manage it.