[kisiellll]

Just at about 80k miles and precats are still in the stock header. Everything is intact, but rather risk keeping the precats in place, figured I'd replace the header. I know I can just remove the precats out of the stock header, but would prefer a nice, new, clean header to replace it.

I could not find any Che headers, so does anyone have experience with either of these:

http://www.jdmcenter.com/product.html?id=jvt-header-toyota-mr2-spyder-00-06-05-04-03-02-01-zzw30

http://www.tunerbits.com/00-05-Toyota-MR2-Spyder-Exhaust-Header.html

http://www.dashzracing.com/01-05-toyota-mr2-spyder-racing-header-exhaust-hds-mr2-01.html

My guess is no one on here has probably tried any of these, but there the only ones I could find under $200 and not including a downpipe as well, which I do not need.

Thanks in advance.

 

[geospyder87]

Your going to get what you pay for. They look like a copy of Che's but I would be willing to bet the welds and the pipe are not good quality. My opinion, gut your pre-cats( even thou you said you don't want to its still the cheapest way), or OBX has been selling a header and down pipe combo on ebay. You don't have to install the down pipe but you might want it later in the future. And if you are looking to buy one of Che's, send him a pm and ask if he has any.

 

[Levi]

The ebay header I have is worse than stock, the piping is 1.4" ID primaries (smaller than stock's 1.45") and the post merge tube is still 1.4" whereas stock is 1.7". I think gutting the stock headers is a much better option. In addition, the ebay headers crack often and the stock heat shields don't fit which makes them radiate much more heat, raising your IAT and slowing down your exhaust gases.

 

[celi2nv]

Those headers are all exactly the same and are Che headers. They all come from the same factory and batch.

 

[kisiellll]

Hmmm... conflicting arguments here. Honestly, I'm looking to trade the car in within the next year, so just want to be 100% sure I don't run into any precat failure.

From what people have said here, I don't think I'm going to risk it on any of those headers. Someone just PM'd me with an offer for a CHE header, so we'll see where that goes.

Thank you everyone for your help.

 

[Rampage]

Those headers are all exactly the same and are Che headers. They all come from the same factory and batch.

I agree. I had zero issues with my Che on my 1ZZ which I had for a year. Every one of those looks exactly like the one I had.

 

[PRspyder]

just get a header from che or go buy the obx long tube header from ebay

/THREAD

 

[OldMan]

Just gut the stock manifold and be done with it.

Why spend extra money to cause problems for a future owner?
Are you pathelogically mean, or what?

 

[ThangCu35]

OM you are too funny :lol:

 

[onetrillionrpm]

Just gut the stock manifold and be done with it.

Why spend extra money to cause problems for a future owner?
Are you pathelogically mean, or what?

agreed.

obx headers made my engine sound even worse, then my transmission fell apart.

 

[carlbecker]

Oil consumption, burning oil is very bad for cat converters, causing cat failure, then it seems engine failure. If you are not burning much oil then a simple O2 sensor hole check of your precats could be all you need. From what I have read the Che header is not something I would spend any money on. Even if I where going to part ways with the car.

 

[beachbum]

Ok, I have one of the cheap Chinese headers and it has been on for over 4 years with no issues. The heat shields fit just fine. They are basically all copies of the TRD header, but I suspect the quality varies from year to year / batch to batch based on which backyard "manufacturer" made the header. When I bought mine (cheapest ones I could find on eBay), I bought 2 as they were well under $100 each with shipping. The second has never been out of the box.

For the price, I didn't expect much, but I have been pleasantly surprised.

As for cracking, the key seems to be proper use of the lower support braces. I replaced the early model stamped braces with the later cast ones with two mounting bolts per brace.

The advantage of buying from Che is warranty. You pay more, but he backs up the product.

 

[celi2nv]

There you go, you get what you pay for. Yes all Che and copies if you want to call them a copy of a copy are all the same, better than stock for pre-cats but forget it for performance.

Point is they're all the same, buy from Che for the best service.

 

[tmhuud]

Gut your existing. The header that comes with is better quality albeit a tad heavier than most afternarkets.

 

[sh4branze]

Ok, I have one of the cheap Chinese headers and it has been on for over 4 years with no issues. The heat shields fit just fine. They are basically all copies of the TRD header, but I suspect the quality varies from year to year / batch to batch based on which backyard "manufacturer" made the header. When I bought mine (cheapest ones I could find on eBay), I bought 2 as they were well under $100 each with shipping. The second has never been out of the box.

For the price, I didn't expect much, but I have been pleasantly surprised.

As for cracking, the key seems to be proper use of the lower support braces. I replaced the early model stamped braces with the later cast ones with two mounting bolts per brace.

The advantage of buying from Che is warranty. You pay more, but he backs up the product.

Exactly what he said.

 

[beachbum]

.. better than stock for pre-cats but forget it for performance.

Frankly, I haven't seen anyone provide any proof that the cheap clones hurt performance, or are worse (or better) than a gutted stock header. It would seem a gutted stock header just ends up with a couple expansion chambers, which theoretically should hurt performance.

My "butt dyno" suggests the header helped midrange a small amount, but did nothing for the top end, which is what I would expect from a 4-2-1 exhaust. In any case, it was a cheap way to replace the pre-cats.

If performance is the goal, you will spend a LOT more for relatively small gains.

 

[celi2nv]

Frankly, I haven't seen anyone provide any proof that the cheap clones hurt performance, or are worse (or better) than a gutted stock header. It would seem a gutted stock header just ends up with a couple expansion chambers, which theoretically should hurt performance.

My "butt dyno" suggests the header helped midrange a small amount, but did nothing for the top end, which is what I would expect from a 4-2-1 exhaust. In any case, it was a cheap way to replace the pre-cats.

If performance is the goal, you will spend a LOT more for relatively small gains.

I wouldn't even consider these "Headers". Cylinder 1 crosses over 2 &3 to get to 4 so where is the design improvement over stock. You'd probably get more hp from an intake. Personally I'd just gut the stock header since they are better quality and roughly same terrible design.

If you want real headers get the Zero for 4-2-1 or get PPE for 4-1. The only NA mod I ever had I could "butt dyno" was PPE.

 

[sh4branze]

Removing 20+ Lbs from the car is a good thing.20 more if you swap in a cat back too.

 

[Levi]

Removing 20+ Lbs from the car is a good thing.20 more if you swap in a cat back too.

Its less than a 3 lb difference between gutted stock headers without heat shields vs the ebay header without heat shields from my own weighing. The error people make alot is comparing stock headers with precats and heat shields to the ebay header alone. My weights line up with MR2roc which has exact gram measurements someone took if your really curious.

The stock muffler section is 27 lbs and the team moon is 18, so also not quite 20 lbs lost

 

[sh4branze]

Wow Really?That's it?I would a lost that bet.